Today, we’re tackling the ins and outs of installing a GFCI outlet. Why? Because my buddy’s bathroom had zero power, and I needed to install a fancy bidet. No juice, no spritz – so let’s fix that.

What’s a GFCI and Why Do You Need One?

GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. Fancy name, simple job: it shuts off power if it detects an imbalance in the electrical current, which could mean water and electricity are getting a little too friendly. That’s why GFCIs are required in bathrooms, kitchens, and other moisture-prone areas.

Step 1: Find a Power Source

Since running a whole new circuit from the panel isn’t an easy task (unless you love breaking through walls like the Kool-Aid Man), we’re looking for an existing power source. In this case, I had two options:

1. Tap into the light switches inside the bathroom.
2. Use the power from a closet light switch on the other side of the wall.

I chose the closet switch because I felt like it kept things cleaner.

Step 2: Cutting and Fishing the Wire

First, I popped off the cover plate of the switch to check if I had the holy trinity of wiring: hot, neutral, and ground. Luckily, all three were present. Next, I punched out one of the knockouts in the switch box and fed a new wire down the wall to where I wanted my GFCI outlet. I used an old work box, which is great for retrofit jobs because it clamps onto the drywall instead of needing nails or screws. Just cut a hole in the wall, fish the wire through, and boom – progress.

However, life isn’t always that easy. I hit a fire block in the wall, which meant the wire wasn’t dropping as expected. Instead of tearing up the bathroom wall, I cut into the closet side, removed a small section of drywall, notched out the fire block, and fished the wire through. Minimal mess, maximum success.

Step 3: Wiring the GFCI Outlet

Now for the fun part – wiring up the outlet. GFCIs have three main screws:

• Brass/Black – Connects to the hot wire (black) *black touches brass, save your ass!
• Silver – Connects to the neutral wire (white)
• Green – Connects to the ground (bare copper wire)

Many GFCIs also have load terminals (covered with yellow tape), which allow you to protect additional outlets downstream. In this case, we’re just installing one GFCI, so we’re keeping it simple.

I stripped back the sheathing on the wires, connected black to brass, white to silver, and ground to green. After carefully stuffing the wires back into the box (without looking like I was forcing a sleeping bag back into its pouch), I secured the outlet and put on the cover plate.

Step 4: Connecting to the Power Source

Back at the switch, I turned off the power (because I prefer to be stimulated by coffee), removed the switch, and identified the line wire (the one bringing power from the panel). You can use either:

1. A voltage detector pen (quick but not always foolproof)
2. A voltmeter (more accurate & professional – look for ~120V between hot and neutral)

Once I confirmed the correct wires, I used a wire nut to pigtail a short black wire from the hot wire bundle and connected it back to the switch. This way, both the switch and the new GFCI outlet would get constant power.

Step 5: Testing and Buttoning Up

Before closing everything up, I flipped the breaker back on and tested the GFCI outlet. The light came on, the reset/test buttons worked, and the outlet was ready to supply power to my buddy’s high-tech bidet.

With everything confirmed, I buttoned up the switch, reinstalled the cover plates, and patched up the drywall in the closet. (Well, mostly – my buddy needed a paint sample, so I left a chunk out for him. DIY teamwork at its finest.)

Final Thoughts

Installing a GFCI might sound intimidating, but with a little patience (and maybe some drywall touch-ups), it’s totally doable. Plus, it adds an essential layer of electrical safety – no one wants a shocking experience on the toilet.

Now that the power is flowing, it’s time for the real mission: installing that bidet. Stay tuned for the next video where we bring the bathroom into the 21st century.

Happy wiring – and as always, don’t cross the streams (or wires).

This post contains paid product mention from GE. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Step 1: Diagnose the Problem

In this case, the leak in the garage below only seemed to occur during showers. This indicates water was escaping outside the shower—likely due to improper use of a shower curtain or gaps in the sealant at the tub’s edges. To fix this, resealing the tub and shower was the best solution.

Step 2: Remove the Old Sealant

The first and most time-consuming step is removing the old sealant. Use a utility knife, razor blade scraper, or trowel to scrape off all the old material. Be thorough—clean edges are essential for the new sealant to adhere properly.

Step 3: Choose the Right Sealant

For flexible, modern fiberglass tubs, a durable sealant is key. GE Sealant Supreme Silicone is an excellent choice. It’s 100% waterproof, offers permanent flexibility, and withstands the natural movement of the tub over time.

Step 4: Prepare the Tub

Before sealing, fill the tub with water. This step applies maximum pressure to the tub’s joints, ensuring the sealant can adjust and contract properly once the water is removed.

Use painter’s tape along the edges of the tub to create clean lines. This simple trick helps achieve a professional-looking finish, even if your application isn’t perfect.

Step 5: Apply the Sealant

Start with the areas where the tub meets the tile. If the tile work is neat, a clear silicone sealant is ideal because it blends seamlessly and doesn’t draw attention. For areas where the grout lines or edges are uneven, like where the tub meets the floor, white silicone is better at covering imperfections.

Apply steady, even pressure while running the sealant along the edges. Once you’ve finished, carefully peel off the painter’s tape before the sealant dries.

Step 6: Let It Cure

Leave the water in the tub for a few hours after sealing, then drain it to allow the sealant to fully cure. This ensures a watertight bond that will last.

Bonus Tip: Save Your Leftover Sealant

Don’t toss the leftover silicone! Wrap the tip of the tube with painter’s tape to keep it sealed and ready for your next project.

Why Resealing Is Important

Resealing your bathtub and shower is a simple yet essential DIY task that prevents water damage, mold growth, and costly repairs. Plus, with quality products like GE Sealant Supreme Silicone, you’ll get a long-lasting, professional-grade result.

Shop DIY Essentials:
Get all the products featured in this tutorial—including the GE Sealant Supreme Silicone—on my Amazon storefront here.

With these steps, your bathtub and shower will be sealed for good, saving you time, stress, and money. Ready to tackle your own DIY sealing project? Good luck!

This post contains paid product mention from GE. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Why Proper Installation and Sealing Matter

The primary cause of window and door failure is improper installation, which often involves inadequate air and water sealing. Air and water sealing are essential for ensuring that windows and doors function correctly and maintain energy efficiency. Poor sealing can lead to issues like drafts, water damage, and reduced energy performance, which can ultimately cost you more in repairs and utility bills.

Replacement vs. New Construction Windows

When updating your home’s windows, you’ll typically choose between replacement windows and new construction windows. Replacement windows are designed to fit into existing frames without removing the interior and exterior trim. While this makes installation easier, it can result in less effective sealing.

On the other hand, new construction windows come with a nailing flange that adds an extra layer of protection against air and water infiltration. Despite the additional work required, new construction windows generally offer better sealing and weatherproofing.

Step-by-Step Guide to Proper Window Installation and Sealing

Step 1: Prepping the Rough Opening

1. Measure the Rough Opening: Ensure the rough opening is slightly larger than the window, usually about 1/2 to 1 inch wider. This allows space for proper sealing. The exact dimensions for your windows should be noted in the installation instructions.
2. Angle the Sill: The bottom of the rough opening (the sill) should be angled slightly towards the exterior. This ensures that any water that gets behind the window will drain out.
3. Apply Flashing Tape: Use rubberized, waterproof flashing tape to seal the sill. Apply it across the bottom and up the sides of the rough opening. For corners, you can use pre-made plastic corner flashings or create your own with stretchable tape. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for rolling the tape if required.

Step 2: Dry Fitting the Window

Place the window into the rough opening to check the fit. Add shims at the bottom sill to create a small, even gap around the window for air sealing. Ensure the window is plumb and level before proceeding.

Step 3: Final Window Installation

1. Seal Around the Window: Use a premium 100% silicone sealant, like GE Sealants Window and Door Supreme, to create a continuous bead around the top and sides of the window. Avoid sealing the bottom entirely to allow for any potential water drainage.
2. Apply Flashing Tape: Flash around the window, starting with the sides and then the top. Ensure that the sides overlap with the top flashing. Consider adding a Z flashing above the window to help direct water away.
3. Trim and Finish: After installing the window, seal around the trim with a GE product that matches your window and trim color. Use 100% silicone for the best seal, but if you need a paintable option, GE’s Siliconized Acrylic or Paintable Silicone Supreme are excellent choices.

Interior Sealing

For the interior, focus on air sealing to eliminate drafts. Use GE’s insulating foam specifically designed for windows and doors. Spray the foam into gaps around the window frame, let it cure, and trim off any excess. Finish the installation by sealing edges with GE’s painters quick-dry sealant.

Conclusion

Proper window and door installation is essential for maintaining energy efficiency and preventing damage. By following these steps and using high-quality GE Sealants, you can ensure that your windows and doors are sealed for good, providing you with lasting performance and peace of mind.

For more information on GE Sealants and to explore their range of products, check out my amazon storefront. Thank you for reading, and happy sealing!

You only get one chance to make a first impression! It’s true in all aspects of life including your front door. Unfortunately when it came to our house, the front entryway was looking pretty drab and gross. Not to worry, I tackled a full DIY Entryway Overhaul complete with front Door Restoration and new hardware with the help from my friends from Minwax and Schlage! If you’re interested in watching the whole entry transformation, check out the full video here.

This project contains paid product integrations from Minwax and Schlage Locks. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

The Issue:

The various shades of brown paint on the doors and surrounding area really don’t stand out against the beige brick that features on the majority of the house. Also, the solid wood doors have been painted over umpteen times and have lost their character.

The Goal:

The goal of the project is to bring some visual interest to the front entryway with sharp contrast against the beige brick, and a combination of tones and textures.

Step 1: Paint (the Walls)

I think when it comes to painting, there’s not much to say. Pretty self explanatory, right? Well there are a few helpful tips that I can share about painting to make your life easier.

1. 1.  Make sure you choose the right nap for your roller! Nap refers to the length of the fibers on the roller. A higher Nap means longer fibers so it is better suited to get into the nooks and crannies of a rougher surface. A lower nap number means it’s better suited for a smoother surface. For this project I’m using a 3/4″ nap for the rough walls and a 1/4″ nap for the smooth trim pieces.
   2. Taping – I’m not a huge fan of using a lot of tape for a couple reasons. #1 is that it creates a lot of waste to deal with, and #2 is it tends to give people a false sense of security and lets you be sloppy. However, a lot of tapes bleed under the edge and you end up having to fix it later anyway, adding a lot of time to the project. I use Frog Tape mostly and make sure to wet the edge of the tape when I put it up which activates their edge lock adhesive and gives much cleaner tape lines.

Step 2: Strip Paint On the Doors

There’s no secret in saying that restoring old doors is a lot of work and not the most fun one can have on a weekend! However, replacing wooden doors can also be extremely expensive so if you can spare the time and don’t mind a little hard work, you can get beautiful results. The first step is to use paint stripper. Add a generous coat(s) and let it sit for about 15 minutes and then come back through with a good, solid metal scraper and take your time peeling the layers off. You may have to do it several times depending on the amount of paint on the doors. Wear your gloves, eye protection, and a good respirator because this stuff can be noxious!

Step 3: Sand the Doors

After stripping, it’s not uncommon to feel like you’ve really made a mistake. It will likely look horrible! But don’t worry, get out a sander with some 80 grit paper and get to work. You’ll quickly start to see the raw wood and start to feel better about your decision. Work your way up through the grits until at least 220 grit. (I usually go 80 grit, 120 grit, and 220 grit)

Pay close attention to the details. The more detail your door has, the harder it’s going to be. It can be pretty tricky to get into those spaces but I recommend getting a small wire brush, sanding sponges, and utilizing paint stripper as much as possible to make your life easier. It takes time, there’s no way around that!

Step 4: (Pre) Stain the Doors

Choosing the right stain products for your doors is important. I like to use Oil-Based products on any outdoor project because it provides a more durable, harder finish over the longterm than its water-based counterpart. DON’T MIX AND MATCH oil and water-based. I also always like to use a quality Minwax Oil-based pre-stain conditioner. The pre-stain conditioner evens out the wood to create a more uniform stain look and remove any unsightly blotching that can sometimes occur. It’s especially important on old doors that have previously had other finishes previously applied. I applied it with a cheap chip brush and let it set up for about 30 minutes before staining.

For this project I chose the Minwax Oil-based Early American stain for the doors. I thought it gave a nice, warm contrast to the green and tan trim we chose for our color scheme. For staining, I also used a chip brush and followed it up with a rag to wipe off any excess after it sat on the wood for a few minutes. For more staining tips, check out this previous project article.

Step 5: Seal the Doors

A quality top coat can be a make or break step for restoring doors. In professional setups, they have a dedicated spray booth to get the best quality application possible. But you’re not a pro so just do your best. You can still get a great finish. I chose to use the Minwax Oil-based Helmsman Spar Urethane on these doors. It’s a great, durable finish that will provide years of UV and weather protection. I applied it with a brand new, high quality bristle brush in the direction of the wood grain and allowed it to set up according to the dry time on the can. Then I sanded the doors lightly with 400 grit paper and applied another coat. Then I repeated that process again for a solid 3 coat application.

Step 6: Update the Hardware

Lastly, to get a modern/rustic vibe, it’s time to update the hardware on the doors. I used the Century Matte Black Hardware and Century Touch Deadbolt from my friends at Schlage Locks.These doors required a little updating in order to install the new hardware which included installing a new patch in the old strike plate area and chiseling it out so it has a nice finished look. If you want to learn more about how to fix your old doors to install new hardware and update strike plates, make sure you check out this video where I walk you through the whole process! 

So that’s it for this project! I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it inspires you to tackle a door project you may have been too nervous to take on! 

If you’re interested in learning more about staining and/or restoring old furniture and household items, check out these other articles.

Restoring a 100 Year Old Tool Chest

How to Refinish Wood Furniture

1. Tune up your tools

Getting your tools ready is your first step because it makes sure everything is functioning properly and keeps you from going out and wasting money on plants that you plant too early that might get killed off by a late frost. (Guilty!) Sharpen your tools and blades, change oil and filters and do any small engine maintenance that you didn’t do in the fall.

Now If you’ve transitioned to mostly battery outdoor tools like I have, the maintenance is minimal but get your batteries charged up (Showcase the Stihl mower/tools), and get the tools cleaned up. 

2. Raking, Trimming & Dethatching

You can start trimming back some overgrowth on limbs and trees in early spring and focus on removing any damaged branches that occurred over winter. However, when it comes to raking – Don’t Start too early – bees and some other beneficial insects can overwinter in leaves and debris piles. Wait until the weather is consistently in the 50’s before you clean everything up. Raking can help get sun and nutrients to the soil but don’t do it too early. 

The same can be said for dethatching. Dethatching is the process of removing the thick layer of dead grass and organic material that accumulates around the base of your grass where it meets the soil. It can be beneficial to remove to allow more nutrients into the soil and to mitigate fungal growth but doing it too early in the year can actually harm your lawn’s chances of success. Instead of dethatching early, You can Use a leaf blower to help loosen up some of that matted grass and save your dethatching until later in the year. 

3. Compost

Once it’s warm enough to rake, all the materials you’re raked up from your lawn make great compost to get started for your garden. The dead leaves and small twigs make great additions to your food scraps and waste from the kitchen which will turn into valuable nutrients for your garden. 

I picked up a 50 gallon Compost Tumbler from Northern Tool which is pretty easy to assemble and is easy on your back because it’s elevated and on wheels so it’s easy to move around. 

4. Mowing and mulching

If you don’t want to rake up all those annoying leaves, cutting your lawn at around 2 – 2.5” in mid spring can actually add some nutrients to the soil and help fertilize your lawn. Don’t cut it too short early in the year as it can shock the grass before it’s fully awoken from it’s dormant state. 

5. Check Your Soil Temperature and/or Do a Soil Test

Before you move onto any other steps it’s best to make sure your soil is ready to handle any seeding or fertilizer. Use a thermometer to check soil temperature and make sure your soil is consistently in the 50 degree range. If you fertilize your soil too early, you risk wasting money because the soil isn’t capable of handling the nutrients until it warms up. High nitrogen fertilizers too early in the season can cause more damage than good. 

If you’re not a gardener and don’t have a soil thermometer you can also use a long screwdriver or sharp object to check the soil. Stick the screwdriver into the soil. It should be able to reach a depth of about 6 inches into the soil relatively easily and without tremendous effort. If you’re having trouble getting the screwdriver down that far, it still may be a little early to move on to the next steps. 

6. Aeration

You can aerate in Spring if you need to and you want to jumpstart your lawn but I personally think aerating in the fall months is best. Soil temperatures should be at least 55-60 degrees before you get started. Aerating loosens up the compaction of the soil and allows water and nutrients to get into the soil, but it also provides an opportunity for weeds to germinate easily and can actually dry out your lawn more.  

If your lawn was stressed out last fall, you might want to reconsider aerating in the spring and focus on some of the next things instead. 

7. Overseeding & Fertilizing

Once the soil temperatures have increased to about 60 degrees and up, now is the time to fertilize and overseed your lawn. If the soil is not warm enough to uptake the seeds or nutrients you’re throwing your money away. 

8. Don’t Use Weed Killers on your lawn before it’s woken from dormancy

Weed killers and crab grass blockers can actually inhibit the growth of your grass and specifically any new seed you’re trying to germinate. If you’re going to use these products, make sure you wait til late Spring once your grass has woken up and any new seed has germinated fully. 

9. Try Not to Roll Your Lawn in the Spring Unless you have to

Rolling your lawn Compresses it and Makes it tough for nutrients, light, and water to get to your soil. It’s not uncommon for there to be high and low spots in your lawn that occur over winter, but the best time to roll your lawn is in the fall months when it is soft, full of nutrients, and ready to go into dormancy over the winter months. 

10. Consider Going Drought Tolerant

If you’re continually battling to get the results you want from your lawn year-after-year, it might be time to consider doing some lawn alternatives to make your life easier and cheaper. There are a ton of options out there including synthetic turf which I’ve previously done a video on that I’ll leave a link to, as well as xeriscaping, and adding native plants and grasses to your lawn.

Thanks for checking out this article! I hope it helps you get your lawn ready for the warm summer days ahead! If you enjoyed this article, here are a few more you might like.

Do These 3 Things to Get Your Lawn Ready for Summer!

How to Install Sod

Step 1: Identify the Problem

The first step is to figure out what’s causing the problem. Is it a leaky flapper? A busted fill valve? Is the flapper chain just stuck? Or did your toddler throw their toy down the toilet again? Take a deep breath and lift the lid off the tank. SOME toilets have different mechanisms but for the sake of this project we’ll assume you have a traditional fill valve/ flapper combination.

Check the Flapper

The flapper is the little rubber thingy that controls the water flow from the tank to the bowl. It’s usually connected to the flush lever with a chain. Sometimes the fix is as simple as freeing the chain from whatever it is stuck on. If the rubber flapper is damaged or worn, it can cause the toilet to run. Don’t worry, this is an easy fix. First you’ll need to shut off the water at the valve on the wall behind the toilet. Next, just remove the old flapper and replace it with a new one. There are a few different mounting types so make sure you check how it mounts on the hinge side. Often times ones that say “Universal” don’t match the universe you’re living in! Once you replace it, turn the water back on and give it few test flushes to make sure it’s still not leaking.

Inspect the Fill Valve

“Okay, what’s a fill valve?” The fill valve is responsible for refilling the toilet tank with water after you flush. If it’s not working properly, it can cause the toilet to run continuously. Usually a fill valve has a float on it which triggers the water to turn on and off. If the float is stuck down or damaged, the water won’t know when to shut off. To check it, lift the float mechanism up and down (with the water on). If the float is in the down/lowest position, it should call for water. It should shut off at its upper position. (You can adjust the height of the fill valve float on most assemblies) Flush the toilet and test the float and also listen for any hissing sounds that aren’t caused by running water. If you hear anything unusual, it’s time to replace the fill valve.

Check for Leaks

If the flapper and fill valve are working properly, it’s time to check for leaks. Add a few drops of food coloring to the back of the tank and wait for 30 minutes. If the water in the bowl changes color (without flushing), that means there’s a leak somewhere in the tank assembly or bowl. That may require removing the tank off the toilet base and doing some further inspection for worn seals/gaskets.

Make the Repairs (DIY, Baby!)

Now that you’ve identified the problem, it’s time to make the necessary repairs. Whether it’s replacing the flapper or the fill valve, or fixing a leak, you got this. You’re a DIY master! And if all else fails, it’s time to call in the big guns – a professional plumber. But seriously, you got this. Here’s how you can do it.

How to Replace a Toilet Fill Valve

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

At the wall there should be a water shutoff valve of some kind. It may be a modern quarter turn, or an older shutoff of some kind. Make sure you turn off the water supply before moving to the next step.

Step 2: Flush the Toilet and Disconnect the Supply Hose

The water supply hooks to the toilet with a flexible water line. Use your hand or a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the water line from where it is attached to the toilet. (This is the bottom of the fill valve) Keep a bucket or towel nearby to catch any water that didn’t drain from the toilet tank or water line when it was disconnected.

Step 3: Remove the Retaining Nut

Most of the time there is a retaining nut and flexible washer holding the fill valve in place (right by where the water line attached). Use the pliers if you have to to loosen the nut and remove the nut from the bottom (the rubber washer is usually inside the tank and will lift out with the assembly). Some water from the tank may come out of the hole in the bottom. This is normal as the tank rarely empties fully on a flush. The fill valve assembly should now be loose.

Step 4: Lift the Fill Valve Assembly from the Tank

Disconnect any additional flexible hoses from inside the tank and lift out the fill valve assembly. It should come out easily. If not, double check you’ve removed any locking nuts.

Step 5: Replace with New Fill Valve Assembly

The new fill valve assembly should go right back into the same spot and install in the reverse order of the removal. Follow the instructions on your new valve to adjust the float height, and determine how much water to use per flush. Most adjust easily with a retaining clip or by twisting the riser up or down.

Step 6: Re-Connect the Water Line

Reinstall the locking nut on the underside of the toilet tank, making sure the rubber gasket is installed on the bottom of the new assembly. Make sure the fill valve assembly is not turned against the inside of the tank and it can move properly up and down. Then secure the lock nut and washer in place. Reconnect the water supply line and turn on the water to test and make sure everything works properly.

Step 7: Enjoy Your Throne!

This part is pretty self explanatory.

There you have it, a DIY guide on how to diagnose and fix a running toilet. Don’t let a little running water ruin your day. You can fix this yourself. Good luck!

Like this content? Check out more DIY Plumbing tips below!

Top 5 DIY Plumbing Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

How to Install a Bathroom Faucet

It’s no secret that gas prices have been through the roof lately. That has motivated a lot more people to consider transitioning to an electric vehicle. My wife and I have had a Tesla Model 3 for a few years now and I personally love the car. Today I’m going to show you how to install an electric vehicle (Tesla) charger in your home in the event you decide to go electric. 

Disclaimer:

As with every video I do that involves electricity, I want to warn you that working with your electrical panel carries risk of injury or death and that I am not a licensed electrician. However, I have a lot of experience working with residential electricity and am comfortable in my abilities to operate with it safely. I’m merely showing you what is involved, and if at any time you are not comfortable doing anything I’m demonstrating in this video, please call a professional. There’s no sense in you injuring yourself or others just to save a few bucks. With that being said, let’s dive in. 

What You’ll Need

For this install we are going to be using some electrical conduit, some 8ga stranded wire, a 40amp dual pole breaker, a 4” electrical box, some screws or toggle bolts, some electrical tools including a fish tape and wire strippers/cutters, and a NEMA 50amp 220v plug.  

The Tesla Model 3 can handle up to a 50amp circuit to charge the vehicle. However, I am using a 40amp breaker with 8 ga wire because 8 ga wire is easier to pull through conduit than 6ga wire. The lower the gauge of the wire, the thicker it is and the more amperage it can accommodate. Here’s a basic amperage rating for the various thicknesses of wiring you’ll typically find in your home. 

I’ve also done this in the past using a 30 amp circuit and 10 ga wire. The car will charge either way. However, the larger the circuit, the faster it will charge. 

The first thing we’re going to do is turn the power off at the panel. Keep in mind that will kill all the power in the house and all the circuits. However, it doesn’t stop the power from coming in to the panel. Make sure you still work carefully and avoid the main leads coming into the panel. 

Checking Your Breaker Panel

You’ll need to make sure your panel has space to accommodate the breaker for the charger. I happen to know I have a few unused breakers in the panel from previously installed things. So I am going to repurpose a breaker that was previously used for an old electric oven. When selecting a breaker, you need to make sure that your new breaker matches the breaker style for your panel. I used a Square D panel which is usually written somewhere on the panel itself. 

Running Electrical Conduit

Next we’re going to install our box where we want it to be by screwing it to the wall on a stud or using toggle bolt anchors. From there we can start to install our conduit. I’m using schedule 40 PVC conduit because it’s easier to work with. However, I wanted to use 1” diameter conduit but it wasn’t in stock at the time so I went with ¾”. I’d recommend using the 1” conduit so that it’s easier to pull the wiring through. 

Installing the conduit will depend on your location. In this case I’m going up the wall, through a dividing wall into different portion of the garage, and then connecting to the panel. Using a pair of PVC cutters and a tape measure makes this part pretty simple. When you get to a corner, you can use one of these 90° junctions. Once you have the majority of the conduit run, connect it to your panel box by removing one of the panel knockouts and connecting it with a connection and nut. I recommend dry fitting all the pieces and making sure everything looks good before going back and gluing up your connections. 

Pulling Your Wiring

Now comes the fun part of pulling your wiring. The thicker your wiring, the more twists and turns you have, and the smaller your conduit, the harder it will be to pull. That’s why I recommend using the 1” conduit and the 8ga stranded wire. Stranded wire is essential to be able to pull. I’ll be pulling 4 wires. A red and a black, which will be the hot wires, (110v’s each which add up to 220v) a neutral wire, and a ground wire. Feed the wire fish tape through the conduit until it pops out the other side. It doesn’t necessarily matter which direction you pull from. I opted to pull away from the panel towards the end box. Once your fish tape is popped out the other end, you have to attach your wire to it. It involves stripping back a bunch of the wiring, twisting it together, and making everything as small as possible. You also don’t want to be shy about taping the hell out of it. You’re going to be wrenching on it pretty good and you don’t want to have it come apart halfway through your conduit run. 

I screwed up in this case because I tried to pull the whole lengthall at once. If you have a 90° junction anywhere in your run, this is going to be really hard to do. I should’ve started pulling from the 90°, got the wire to this point, and then unhooked everything and started over for the rest of the way. I ended up doing anyway but it was more difficult than it should have been. 

Once I pulled it all the way through to the box, I made sure I had about 8” sticking out of the box after cutting off the waste from the fish tape.

Connecting to the Panel

Back at the panel you need to make sure to give yourself plenty of length in the wiring to keep it tidy around the outside edges of the panel box. I happened to notice someone previously installed some wiring in this box where the ground crosses over in front of some of the breakers because they didn’t leave enough length. That’s a big no no and something I’ll have to fix. 

Make sure you have enough slack in the wiring to make the connections at the neutral and ground bar, and to your new breaker for the hot wires. Once you know you have enough length, cut off the excess. 

Connect the white neutral wire to the neutral bar in the panel. Then connect the ground wire to the ground bar. Next connect each of the hot wires to each of the connections on the bottom of the breaker itself. It doesn’t matter which one goes to which. Make sure they’re stripped to the right length and tighten them down securely. Then place the breaker into its location in the panel and snap it into place. 

Connecting the Receptacle

From there we’ll go back to the other end and make the connections on the receptacle. I’m using the 50amp receptacle but you can use different receptacles and Tesla adapters depending on your setup. The 2 hot wires (the red and black) get mounted to each of the brass terminals on the receptacle while the white gets connected to the silver terminal screw and the ground connects to the green terminal. Make sure everything is tightened securely and fold the wires back into the box and screw the receptacle in place. 

Next, I’m going to close up the electrical panel and turn the power back on at the main breaker. Then I’ll turn on my newly installed breaker to test out the circuit before I put the cover on the box. 

Once I plug everything in, it looks like everything is working as it should. Lastly I’m going to just add a cover to the box and install this little charger mount and cable management rack I found on Amazon. 

Finished Charger

And that’s it! I now have an electrical vehicle charger set up in the garage. You can charge the car off a normal 110v outlet but it takes a really long time to charge. If you drive a lot, it might not be sufficient for you. This way the car charges relatively quickly and you can top off anytime you’re at home. 

Thanks very much for checking out this video and I hope you learned something about installing a 220-240v circuit. This process can be used for more than just electrical vehicles. The install is pretty similar for other 220v circuits like large electric appliances, heaters, welders, shop tools, etc. Once you get used to understanding circuit and wiring sizes, etc you’re not really limited to what you can do. 

Thanks for checking out this project! Check out some of my other DIY Home electrical projects.

Top 5 DIY Electrical Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

Garage Heater Installation | A DIY Guide

Be honest, when was the last time you drained and flushed your hot water tank/heater? Last year? 5 years ago? Never?!?! Did you even know that was something you should be doing semi-regularly? Well I can assure you that not only is it something you SHOULD be doing, it’s something you should be doing every year!

Why Should I Drain my Water Heater?

Most homeowners I talk to have never drained and flushed their water heater. Understandable I suppose, it’s not something you learn about in school so if you never knew you were supposed to, why would you? Flushing your water tank is really simple and it helps prolong the life of the tank. Over time, lime, calcium, and other minerals in your water can create deposits in the tank. (Especially if you have hard water) Periodically draining and flushing your water tank helps loosen sediments that build up and cause problems with the heating elements. Over time, deposits and corrosion can shorten the life of the tank. There’s never a good time to not have hot water in your home! Now’s the time to add it to your to-do list! Here’s how to do it!

Step #1: Turn off the Power & Supply Valve

Either shut off the gas at the shutoff valve (Typically a valve connected to a yellow flex gas line running to the tank), or unplug the tank if it’s an electric tank. (You can also turn off the breaker to the water heater if you’re uncomfortable unplugging or unsure.)

Also close the cold water supply line valve. There’s typically a valve at the top of the tank. (If you’re not sure, you can CAREFULLY touch your hand on the pipes at the top to see which one is warm and which is cold. Don’t burn yourself! You want to shut off the cold supply line.) If you don’t have a valve there, shut the water off at the closest available shutoff OR you can shut off the main valve to the house if you need to.

Step #2: Connect a Hose to the Drain Valve

If you don’t have an already established drain line, connect a garden hose to the drain outlet on the bottom of the tank. REMEMBER THAT THE WATER IN THE TANK IS HOT! Either let the tank sit idle for a few hours, or carefully direct the hose outside or into your sump pump if you have one. Make sure the hose is directed to a safe place where no children or pets can be scalded by hot water.

Step #3:  Open the Drain Valve

Open the drain valve and allow all the water in the tank to run out. Depending on the size of the tank, this can take 15-20 minutes to drain. You’ll typically need a flat head screwdriver to open the valve.

Step #4: Turn the Water Back On

Once the water stops running from the hose, turn the water back on. You’ll want to allow the tank to flush directly out the hose for a few minutes. After that, I recommend you close the drain valve and allow the tank to fill at least halfway or so. Allow the tank to fill for 10-12 minutes.

Step #5: Shut Off the Water Again and Repeat Flush

Basically you’re going to do the same thing again. Shut off the water supply and open the drain valve. You’ve just flushed the tank to get the water to stir up any loose sediment and get it to be able to drain from the tank. Allow all the water to run from the tank again.

Before you turn the water back I recommend you also check the Anode Rod.

What is The Anode Rod?

Most homeowners I talk to don’t know what an anode rod is let alone know that it’s something that needs to be maintained with your hot water heater. The Anode Rod is a piece of sacrificial metal (usually magnesium or aluminum) that is located within your water heater. It attracts the corrosive elements of your water like calcium away from the internal components of the tank and your tank walls.

Changing your anode rod should be done every few years to make sure the life of your water heater isn’t shortened prematurely because of corrosion.

Step #6: Check or Replace the Anode Rod

The anode rod is mounted to the top of the tank and is threaded in place within the tank. Use a socket wrench or pliers to unthread the rod and check it for wear. If it is badly corroded or completely disintegrated, you need to replace it. Do a quick google search to find a replacement rod for your particular brand of water heater.

Once you reinstall the new anode rod…

Step #7: Reconnect the Heater

Make sure all valves and fittings are tightened and then turn the water supply valve back on for the tank allowing it to fill once again. Re-open the gas valve and follow all safety instructions to re-ignite the heater if you have a gas tank. CAUTION: Failure to follow ignition instructions can cause injury or death. Carefully follow all instructions. 

If you have an electric heater, plug it back in or turn the breaker back on to the unit.

How Do I Know if it’s Time to Replace My Water Heater?

There are several warning signs that your water heater might be on the outs! Here are a few things to look out for. Some issues can be repaired with new parts, while other issues may indicate the need for a new heater. Here’s what to look out for.

1.) Over 10 Years Old

If your water tank is over 10 years old, it might be time for a replacement. If you’re not having problems yet there’s no need to swap it right away, BUT you should probably budget for a new one because you’ll inevitably need one in the next couple years. Electric tanks typically have a little longer life span but both can be shortened by hard water.

2.) Leaking

If your tank is leaking, that’s a big sign that it needs replacing. It often happens on older tanks where corrosion and rust are problems. Sometimes it can be the result of keeping the temperature on the tank set too high or a faulty pressure relief valve. Over time that increased pressure can cause wear on the components.

A leaking tank can be extremely dangerous if not addressed as a leak indicates an issue with the integrity of the tank that can lead to a tank explosion! BAD NEWS BEARS!

3.) Discolored or Cold Water

If you’re getting rusty colored water or cold water after a short period of time, that could be an indication that your water heater needs attention. Especially with the latter. Old houses can have old galvanized pipes which corrode a lot so it may not be indicative of a faulty tank BUT if you’re noticing that AND a change in water temperature, you’re likely having an issue with the tank.

It could be that a heating element needs replacing because it has corroded. OR you may need to replace the tank itself. In either case, a closer inspection is warranted to find the problem.

Installing a New Water Heater

WARNING: Installing a new water heater carries the risk of electrical shock and/or exposure to gas fumes/vapors and can carry the risk of explosion if not done correctly. 

Installing a new water heater isn’t a job for the faint of heart and can be a little dangerous IF you don’t know what you’re doing. It is a task that a handy homeowner can accomplish on their own BUT as always it’s something that needs to be done carefully and correctly. If there are any doubts about your ability to do it, I’d recommend that you leave it to a professional.

Need to Replace an Electric Water Heater?

Check out the New High-Efficiency Rheem ProTerra Hydrbid Electric Water Heater with Leak Guard. 

The Rheem ProTerra Hybrid Electric Water Heater is 4x more efficient than a standard electric water heater, and has an automatic water shut-off in the event of a leak to provide additional peace of mind. You can also control the settings of your water heater directly from your mobile device for added flexibility and is installed just like a standard electric water heater.

If you enjoyed this content, check out some of these other DIY home maintenance projects.

It’s Time to Change Your Home’s Air Filters!

How to Install a Home Water Filtration System

Tackling a tile installation job in your home is one of those projects many homeowners steer clear of. While installing tile on your own can be a little tricky, once you’ve done it a few times, have the right tools, and a little bit of confidence, it’s a great skillset you can add to your arsenal. That’s why this week I’ve teamed up with Kobalt Tools to share 10 DIY Tiling Tips to Tile Like a Pro! Follow along with all my tips in the video above or feel free to scroll through them all down below!

For more tips from a Tile Professional, check out my interview with Professional Tile Setter, Adam Esparza of Ale Tile Co. 

This project contains a paid product integration from Kobalt Tools. All opinions herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

1.) Get Yourself the Right Tools

To get a quality installation with your tile, you’ll need some basic tools to get started. I recommend that you have the following tools on hand:

• A hammer
• A pencil
• A level
• A Utility Knife
• A drill and paddle mixer for mixing mortar
• Various notched trowels (1/4″, 5/32″, 3/16″ depending on your application
• A rubber grout float and sponge
• Some knee pads
• A clean bucket
• A tile cutter. (A wet tile saw or tile score and snap tool is really useful especially if you’re doing a larger tile project. However, if you can’t find or rent one, you can also use an angle grinder with a diamond cutoff blade, OR a small saw with a diamond blade like this one with a diamond cutoff blade.)

Thanks to Kobalt Tools for sending over many of the tools you see in this video for to me to put to the test.

2.) Make sure your Subfloor is Flat and Level

When doing a tile floor project you’ll want to make sure your floor is flat and level. You can use either a cement backer board, or what is called a dry pack mortar bed to set your tile on. A backer board application is more DIY friendly but creating your own mortar bed allows you to level uneven surfaces. You can also use a self leveling product to adjust your subfloor first and then apply a backer board or other membrane to tile over. You never want to tile directly over wood as wood expands and contracts in moisture and can cause your tile and grout to crack. 

3.)  Know the difference between mastic and Thin Set Mortar and when to use each

There are 2 main categories of adhesive to choose from when installing tile. 

1.) Mastic:

Commonly sold in stores as “Tile Adhesive”. Mastic is a pre-mixed glue like product and should only be used in primarily dry applications like kitchen backsplashes. Mastic is stickier than mortar so it’s good for vertical wall applications that aren’t exposed to regular moisture. When installing a backsplash with mastic I use a 3/16″ or 5/32” notched trowel to apply mastic to the wall in small working areas, and then press the tile in place on the wall with a grout float to make sure it seats properly. The notches in the trowel help secure the tile and make sure you aren’t over applying too much mastic which will squeeze out and cause problems especially if you’re using small mosaic tiles like these. 

2.)Thin-Set Mortar

Thin-set on the other hand can be used in any application and is my primary method for tile installation. Thin set is sold in bags or boxes and is mixed with water to create a peanut butter like paste. I use thinset for all flooring applications, shower and bath enclosures, and any large format tile installs. Keep your notches running in one direction and make sure that your notches are full. 

4.) Use Layout Lines

In older homes, sometimes the rooms aren’t square and it can be difficult to determine how the tile will look when installed. When installing square or rectangular tiles, I like to always reference the longest wall in the room and draw a line down the middle of the room. I usually add at least 1 perpendicular line as well. I reference these lines as I’m installing the tile to make sure the courses are staying straight to the room. Depending how square or out of square the room is, you can also use the Pathagoreon theorem or 3-4-5 rule to create square lines in the room. 

5.) Setting Your First Course Is Most Important

Installing the first course of tile is the most important to make sure you have a quality install. You can roughly layout tiles in the room to make sure you won’t have sliver cuts at the end as well. I typically like to shift the tile layout so that I have roughly a ½ piece of tile at each wall. Laying out your tile setup in something like Sketchup can also help you determine how to best set your first course. I always like to hide cuts as much as possible outside of the primary eye-line so keeping them along the edge of the room is best in my opinion.  

6.) Know When to Back Butter

A large format tile is a tile that is larger than 12″ x 12″. When installing a large format tile like this it’s important to do a technique called back buttering. Back buttering involves adding a thin coat of thinset to the backside of your tile using the flat side of the trowel. Pressing the tile down into the notches of the mortar on the floor or wall will create a full seat for the tile and not allow for air gaps to be created underneath. Air gaps under the tile can lead to cracks or breaks in the tile down the road if something is dropped in that area. In MOST small tile applications like subway tiles, you likely don’t need to back butter the tiles. 

7.) Trim your Door Casing!

You can almost always tell a professional tile job from a DIY tile job in a few ways. The most common DIY mistake I see is how people handle cuts around door jambs/frames. Many times people elect to cut around the door casing which can look okay if you do it really well BUT you’ve also now encased the door casing in so if you ever want to change it you’ll have to cut it off at the tile. The proper way is to use a tool like an oscillating tool to cut off the casing so you can slide the tile underneath it. It gives you a clean finish and also will allow you to change the casing easily later on if desired. Another mistake I see often is uneven tiles which leads me to my next point.

8.)  Use Tile Leveling Spacers to Minimize Lippage

Tiling is a bit of an imperfect science. There are a lot of variables to getting it to look right. Small changes in the amount of mortar, a floor that isn’t flat, or a random loose stone in your mortar can all affect how the tile sets. I recommend using tile leveling spacers to minimize lippage as much as possible. Lippage occurs when one tile is proud of the other tile which can easily be seen with the eye or felt under foot. Leveling spacers help even out any imperfections in your installation. 

9.) Use an Angle Grinder To Create Radiused or Plunge Cuts

Cutting radius cuts or cuts in the middle of a tile for something like a receptacle can be a little tricky. I like to use an angle grinder with a diamond cutoff wheel to make those cuts. Another option for small cuts are edges of tile is to score lines in the tile and use tile nippers to follow the contours. 

10.) Choose the Right Grout

Choosing the Right Grout is as important as choosing the right tile. When choosing a grout there are 3 typical types to choose from. 

#1.) Sanded Grout

Sanded grout is a grout that contains larger aggregate sand that is used for larger spacing applications greater than ⅛”. So if you are using a ¼” tile spacer in your project you’ll want to make sure you choose a sanded grout for your application. 

#2.) Non-sanded grout

Non-sanded on the other hand is a finer grout and is used for tile applications where the spacing between tiles is < ⅛”. With either sanded or non-sanded grout, you want to make sure you seal the grout with a grout sealant to keep out dirt and grime. 

#3.) Epoxy Grout

Unlike Sanded and Non-Sanded Grout which are cement based products, epoxy grout is epoxy based which makes it very durable, waterproof, and resistant to cracks and staining.  However, the application process is more challenging, is higher cost, and has a more plastic like appearance. 

My Grouting Tips:

In most flooring applications, I always like to choose a grout that is as close to the floor tile as possible to minimize the discrepancies that can be created from dirt and grime build up but that’s just my personal preference.

To install sanded/non-sanded grout, you mix it like you would mortar but slightly more watery and then spread it across the tile application with a rubber float. After it hazes over for about 30 minutes, use a sponge to wipe off any excess. (I personally like to use a disposable head mop to save my back and knees as much as possible.)

So that’s it for my 10 Tiling Tips! I hope they’re helpful as you tackle your next (or first) DIY Tile project. If you liked this content, here are some more tips/tricks you might enjoy!

Tile Like a Pro | Tips from an Old World Craftsman

10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro!

Good luck and thanks for following!

Paint is one of those things that can make a huge difference in a remodel! And fortunately, it’s one of those things that can be done by most homeowners. However, just because most people CAN do it, doesn’t mean most people do it WELL. In this project tutorial I’ll share with you my 10 DIY Tips to Paint Like a Pro that can help you knock out your next pain project smoothly and professionally.

Follow along with the video above for more detail on each tip.

This project contains affiliate links to the The Home Depot. All opinions are herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

#1. Preparation is Essential

Doing adequate preparation is one of those tasks that is essential to a quality result. However, it’s also one of the easiest things to overlook because it takes quite a bit of time. Adequate prep can and should probably take as long or longer than painting itself.

Preparation involves: Patching nail holes and cracks, caulking gaps, protecting floors & furniture, masking, and using drops cloths or plastic to shield off the room from other areas of the house.

#2. Minimize Plastics or Use Thicker/Larger Pieces

This is more of a personal preference than anything but it drives me nuts to see how much plastic people throw away on a simple painting job. I’m a bit of an environmentalist so if I can minimize waste on a project I tend to try to do whatever I can to make it happen. That means I always use 6 mil or thicker plastic and I always try to use it in large sheets so I can save it after the project. I also try to use drop cloths, cardboard, or tarps as much as possible instead of buying additional plastics.

#3. Get the Right Tools

Just because you are a DIYer doesn’t mean you should do things super cheap. You’re saving a lot of money on labor by tackling your own paint project; however, that doesn’t mean you have to make it hard on yourself. If you don’t already have the right tools for the job, go and get them! Either rent or buy the right tools to make your life easier. You’ll be glad that you spent a little extra to save yourself a headache.

#4: Primer Is Your Friend

A quality primer is your best friend and shouldn’t be skipped. If you’re in an older home you may be going over an oil based (or hopefully not lead) paint. Without a quality primer, a water based paint will peel right off without adhesion. Using primer will help create a secure bond between raw wood, previously painted surfaces, raw drywall, etc. Not to mention that primer is cheaper than paint and adding a coat of primer typically cuts down on the amount of paint you’ll need to apply.

#5: Don’t Cheap Out on Painter’s Tape

I try not to rely heavily on painter’s tapes for a few reasons. #1.) It’s wasteful (and I’m a bit of a hippie) and #2.) It lulls you into a false sense of security and encourages you to get sloppy. When using tapes, I always like to reach for FrogTape over the traditional Blue tape. It adheres better and creates a tight seal on the edges keeping the paint from getting a muddied/blotchiness when you peel it off. If you have to touch up all the edges after you’ve peeled the tape off then it hasn’t saved you any time. Use it sparingly and…

#6: Learn to Cut In Properly

Follow along with the video to see what I mean by this. I place the heel of the brush about an inch from the cut edge and then fan the brush towards the cut edge until I get there. Then I go up and down along the edge with the knife edge of the brush and feather the finish out a few inches away from the cut edge. (Makes more sense if you just watch the video)

#7. Roll Towards the Roller Handle

Always roll in the direction of the roller handle. The handle side applies pressure (and thus paint) to the wall. As it goes outwards towards the end, the pressure is diminished meaning it feathers the finish naturally. This will help you get nice feathered finishes without paint lines. Work in about 24″ sections at a time going up and down the wall.

#8. Label Your Paint Cans

If you have any leftover paint at the end of a job, make sure you label the room you used it for. It’s not always easy to remember which paint is which when you’re digging through paint cans in the shed. Labeling your paint cans helps you keep things organized. You can also take a picture of the label or write down the name of the paint shade on the label as well. Over time the ink from the store labels fades away so if you have to buy more of that shade, it can be hard to remember the name. Writing it down or having a picture reference helps immensely.

#9. Clean Your Brushes (and Rollers) Properly

Follow along with the video to see how I like to clean (and store) my brushes. To do it properly, I like to use a painter’s tool or brush comb and work away from the handle. Tilt the brush away from you in the sink or running water and let the water run towards the bristle ends. Use the comb to work between the fibers until everything runs clear and the brush fibers move freely. Store the brush in the original packaging or make a newspaper sleeve to keep them lasting a long time.

#10. Re-Use Your Materials

Not only am I a bit of a hippie, but I’m also cheap! Re-using materials can save you a lot of money! I like to store all my paint supplies in large tubs so I always have my stuff in one place. If you clean things well you can re-use almost everything from one job to the next which will save you a ton of money in the long run.

So that’s it for this tutorial! I hope you enjoyed these 10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro and hope they help you get a killer result on your next DIY painting project. If you liked it, please leave a comment on the video and let me know. Or feel free to share it with a friend who might find it helpful.

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