Step 1: Identify the Problem

The first step is to figure out what’s causing the problem. Is it a leaky flapper? A busted fill valve? Is the flapper chain just stuck? Or did your toddler throw their toy down the toilet again? Take a deep breath and lift the lid off the tank. SOME toilets have different mechanisms but for the sake of this project we’ll assume you have a traditional fill valve/ flapper combination.

Check the Flapper

The flapper is the little rubber thingy that controls the water flow from the tank to the bowl. It’s usually connected to the flush lever with a chain. Sometimes the fix is as simple as freeing the chain from whatever it is stuck on. If the rubber flapper is damaged or worn, it can cause the toilet to run. Don’t worry, this is an easy fix. First you’ll need to shut off the water at the valve on the wall behind the toilet. Next, just remove the old flapper and replace it with a new one. There are a few different mounting types so make sure you check how it mounts on the hinge side. Often times ones that say “Universal” don’t match the universe you’re living in! Once you replace it, turn the water back on and give it few test flushes to make sure it’s still not leaking.

Inspect the Fill Valve

“Okay, what’s a fill valve?” The fill valve is responsible for refilling the toilet tank with water after you flush. If it’s not working properly, it can cause the toilet to run continuously. Usually a fill valve has a float on it which triggers the water to turn on and off. If the float is stuck down or damaged, the water won’t know when to shut off. To check it, lift the float mechanism up and down (with the water on). If the float is in the down/lowest position, it should call for water. It should shut off at its upper position. (You can adjust the height of the fill valve float on most assemblies) Flush the toilet and test the float and also listen for any hissing sounds that aren’t caused by running water. If you hear anything unusual, it’s time to replace the fill valve.

Check for Leaks

If the flapper and fill valve are working properly, it’s time to check for leaks. Add a few drops of food coloring to the back of the tank and wait for 30 minutes. If the water in the bowl changes color (without flushing), that means there’s a leak somewhere in the tank assembly or bowl. That may require removing the tank off the toilet base and doing some further inspection for worn seals/gaskets.

Make the Repairs (DIY, Baby!)

Now that you’ve identified the problem, it’s time to make the necessary repairs. Whether it’s replacing the flapper or the fill valve, or fixing a leak, you got this. You’re a DIY master! And if all else fails, it’s time to call in the big guns – a professional plumber. But seriously, you got this. Here’s how you can do it.

How to Replace a Toilet Fill Valve

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

At the wall there should be a water shutoff valve of some kind. It may be a modern quarter turn, or an older shutoff of some kind. Make sure you turn off the water supply before moving to the next step.

Step 2: Flush the Toilet and Disconnect the Supply Hose

The water supply hooks to the toilet with a flexible water line. Use your hand or a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the water line from where it is attached to the toilet. (This is the bottom of the fill valve) Keep a bucket or towel nearby to catch any water that didn’t drain from the toilet tank or water line when it was disconnected.

Step 3: Remove the Retaining Nut

Most of the time there is a retaining nut and flexible washer holding the fill valve in place (right by where the water line attached). Use the pliers if you have to to loosen the nut and remove the nut from the bottom (the rubber washer is usually inside the tank and will lift out with the assembly). Some water from the tank may come out of the hole in the bottom. This is normal as the tank rarely empties fully on a flush. The fill valve assembly should now be loose.

Step 4: Lift the Fill Valve Assembly from the Tank

Disconnect any additional flexible hoses from inside the tank and lift out the fill valve assembly. It should come out easily. If not, double check you’ve removed any locking nuts.

Step 5: Replace with New Fill Valve Assembly

The new fill valve assembly should go right back into the same spot and install in the reverse order of the removal. Follow the instructions on your new valve to adjust the float height, and determine how much water to use per flush. Most adjust easily with a retaining clip or by twisting the riser up or down.

Step 6: Re-Connect the Water Line

Reinstall the locking nut on the underside of the toilet tank, making sure the rubber gasket is installed on the bottom of the new assembly. Make sure the fill valve assembly is not turned against the inside of the tank and it can move properly up and down. Then secure the lock nut and washer in place. Reconnect the water supply line and turn on the water to test and make sure everything works properly.

Step 7: Enjoy Your Throne!

This part is pretty self explanatory.

There you have it, a DIY guide on how to diagnose and fix a running toilet. Don’t let a little running water ruin your day. You can fix this yourself. Good luck!

Like this content? Check out more DIY Plumbing tips below!

Top 5 DIY Plumbing Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

How to Install a Bathroom Faucet

Be honest, when was the last time you drained and flushed your hot water tank/heater? Last year? 5 years ago? Never?!?! Did you even know that was something you should be doing semi-regularly? Well I can assure you that not only is it something you SHOULD be doing, it’s something you should be doing every year!

Why Should I Drain my Water Heater?

Most homeowners I talk to have never drained and flushed their water heater. Understandable I suppose, it’s not something you learn about in school so if you never knew you were supposed to, why would you? Flushing your water tank is really simple and it helps prolong the life of the tank. Over time, lime, calcium, and other minerals in your water can create deposits in the tank. (Especially if you have hard water) Periodically draining and flushing your water tank helps loosen sediments that build up and cause problems with the heating elements. Over time, deposits and corrosion can shorten the life of the tank. There’s never a good time to not have hot water in your home! Now’s the time to add it to your to-do list! Here’s how to do it!

Step #1: Turn off the Power & Supply Valve

Either shut off the gas at the shutoff valve (Typically a valve connected to a yellow flex gas line running to the tank), or unplug the tank if it’s an electric tank. (You can also turn off the breaker to the water heater if you’re uncomfortable unplugging or unsure.)

Also close the cold water supply line valve. There’s typically a valve at the top of the tank. (If you’re not sure, you can CAREFULLY touch your hand on the pipes at the top to see which one is warm and which is cold. Don’t burn yourself! You want to shut off the cold supply line.) If you don’t have a valve there, shut the water off at the closest available shutoff OR you can shut off the main valve to the house if you need to.

Step #2: Connect a Hose to the Drain Valve

If you don’t have an already established drain line, connect a garden hose to the drain outlet on the bottom of the tank. REMEMBER THAT THE WATER IN THE TANK IS HOT! Either let the tank sit idle for a few hours, or carefully direct the hose outside or into your sump pump if you have one. Make sure the hose is directed to a safe place where no children or pets can be scalded by hot water.

Step #3:  Open the Drain Valve

Open the drain valve and allow all the water in the tank to run out. Depending on the size of the tank, this can take 15-20 minutes to drain. You’ll typically need a flat head screwdriver to open the valve.

Step #4: Turn the Water Back On

Once the water stops running from the hose, turn the water back on. You’ll want to allow the tank to flush directly out the hose for a few minutes. After that, I recommend you close the drain valve and allow the tank to fill at least halfway or so. Allow the tank to fill for 10-12 minutes.

Step #5: Shut Off the Water Again and Repeat Flush

Basically you’re going to do the same thing again. Shut off the water supply and open the drain valve. You’ve just flushed the tank to get the water to stir up any loose sediment and get it to be able to drain from the tank. Allow all the water to run from the tank again.

Before you turn the water back I recommend you also check the Anode Rod.

What is The Anode Rod?

Most homeowners I talk to don’t know what an anode rod is let alone know that it’s something that needs to be maintained with your hot water heater. The Anode Rod is a piece of sacrificial metal (usually magnesium or aluminum) that is located within your water heater. It attracts the corrosive elements of your water like calcium away from the internal components of the tank and your tank walls.

Changing your anode rod should be done every few years to make sure the life of your water heater isn’t shortened prematurely because of corrosion.

Step #6: Check or Replace the Anode Rod

The anode rod is mounted to the top of the tank and is threaded in place within the tank. Use a socket wrench or pliers to unthread the rod and check it for wear. If it is badly corroded or completely disintegrated, you need to replace it. Do a quick google search to find a replacement rod for your particular brand of water heater.

Once you reinstall the new anode rod…

Step #7: Reconnect the Heater

Make sure all valves and fittings are tightened and then turn the water supply valve back on for the tank allowing it to fill once again. Re-open the gas valve and follow all safety instructions to re-ignite the heater if you have a gas tank. CAUTION: Failure to follow ignition instructions can cause injury or death. Carefully follow all instructions. 

If you have an electric heater, plug it back in or turn the breaker back on to the unit.

How Do I Know if it’s Time to Replace My Water Heater?

There are several warning signs that your water heater might be on the outs! Here are a few things to look out for. Some issues can be repaired with new parts, while other issues may indicate the need for a new heater. Here’s what to look out for.

1.) Over 10 Years Old

If your water tank is over 10 years old, it might be time for a replacement. If you’re not having problems yet there’s no need to swap it right away, BUT you should probably budget for a new one because you’ll inevitably need one in the next couple years. Electric tanks typically have a little longer life span but both can be shortened by hard water.

2.) Leaking

If your tank is leaking, that’s a big sign that it needs replacing. It often happens on older tanks where corrosion and rust are problems. Sometimes it can be the result of keeping the temperature on the tank set too high or a faulty pressure relief valve. Over time that increased pressure can cause wear on the components.

A leaking tank can be extremely dangerous if not addressed as a leak indicates an issue with the integrity of the tank that can lead to a tank explosion! BAD NEWS BEARS!

3.) Discolored or Cold Water

If you’re getting rusty colored water or cold water after a short period of time, that could be an indication that your water heater needs attention. Especially with the latter. Old houses can have old galvanized pipes which corrode a lot so it may not be indicative of a faulty tank BUT if you’re noticing that AND a change in water temperature, you’re likely having an issue with the tank.

It could be that a heating element needs replacing because it has corroded. OR you may need to replace the tank itself. In either case, a closer inspection is warranted to find the problem.

Installing a New Water Heater

WARNING: Installing a new water heater carries the risk of electrical shock and/or exposure to gas fumes/vapors and can carry the risk of explosion if not done correctly. 

Installing a new water heater isn’t a job for the faint of heart and can be a little dangerous IF you don’t know what you’re doing. It is a task that a handy homeowner can accomplish on their own BUT as always it’s something that needs to be done carefully and correctly. If there are any doubts about your ability to do it, I’d recommend that you leave it to a professional.

Need to Replace an Electric Water Heater?

Check out the New High-Efficiency Rheem ProTerra Hydrbid Electric Water Heater with Leak Guard. 

The Rheem ProTerra Hybrid Electric Water Heater is 4x more efficient than a standard electric water heater, and has an automatic water shut-off in the event of a leak to provide additional peace of mind. You can also control the settings of your water heater directly from your mobile device for added flexibility and is installed just like a standard electric water heater.

If you enjoyed this content, check out some of these other DIY home maintenance projects.

It’s Time to Change Your Home’s Air Filters!

How to Install a Home Water Filtration System

The outdoor water spigot hasn’t changed much in about 100 years since the advent of indoor plumbing. They’re typically made of brass and look something like this.

There are a few problems with them. They protrude outside the house and in freezing climates, they can be difficult to drain. This can cause them to freeze or break in the winter. It’s also common for your hose to leak around them when you thread it on which can get a little annoying.

Today I’m going to show you how to install a sleek new modern take on the water spigot. It’s called the house hydrant from Aquor Water Systems. 

Disclosure: This post contains a paid product integration from Aquor Water Systems. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

Adding a New Shutoff Valve

The first step is to shut off the water to the line. There’s no shutoff valve on this one, so I have to shut the water off at the main line. I’ll be adding a new shutoff later on.

Next, open up the valve and drain off any water remaining in the line. From there, use a pipe cutter to cut the supply line in the area you’re working on. The exact location isn’t super important for this. I just want to make sure I cut it back far enough that I have the ability to work.

From there, slide on a new shutoff valve for the water line for the new hose bib. These sharkbite fittings make it super DIY friendly. They just slide right over the existing copper water lines and snap in place. You could shut the valve here and turn the water on for the rest of the house if you want, but I’m leaving it off for the time being. 

Preparing for Installation

Next, let’s take a look at the components that come with the new house hydrant. Full disclosure, Aquor did send me this house hydrant to install and review. After I came across their product online, I reached out to them to test it out. 

The box comes with mounting instructions, an accessory book, a removable faucet, cover plate, and the house hydrant itself. Aquor also supplied me with a chrome cover plate, a separate removable faucet, and a hose. 

First, I’m going to install a mounting block to the side of the house. This is recommended by the manufacturer to ensure we have a 90 degree mounting surface. Before I can install it, I’m adding a small piece of 2×6 inside the block to act as a backer. Then I mock up the mounting location sticker and pre-drill the block with the hole saw.

In this case, I want to move the location up slightly from where the old water spigot was. This gives me more room to install siding around it later on. It will still pass through the rim joists and into the basement on this house. I mock up the new location for the block and use a 1 ½” hole saw on my drill to drill out the hole. Once the hole is drilled, I’m using some roofing nails to hold the mount in place. 

Installing the House Hydrant

Next, I go back inside and mount a small piece of pex piping to the newly installed shutoff valve. Then I feed it so it reaches out the hole. Aquor actually recommends a little extra piping. It’ll allow me to easily remove the hose bib later if I ever need to do any service or maintenance on it. 

From there I’m adding a threaded pex adapter to the end of the house hydrant using some thread tape and pipe thread compound.  I’ll use a pex clamp tool and a clamp to secure the house hydrant to the new pex line. Then, slide it back into the wall and install it with the mounting screws. 

The last thing to do is turn the water back on, check for any leaks, and test it out. What’s cool about this product is that the handle goes right into the wall and threads into place. I should mention that it does take some getting used to to ensure the handle is seated properly before twisting into place. Once you’re done, remove the handle. The excess water drains from the line so you never have to worry about it freezing. The cap also covers it up, so it looks relatively seamless for next time. 

Project Complete!

So that’s it for this modernized version of a water spigot! I hope you enjoyed it and I hope you learned something new. Or, maybe it introduced you to a new product that you maybe weren’t aware of. I want to say a quick thank you to Aquor Water Systems for sending over this house hydrant for me to install. If you’re interested in checking it out and seeing all the options, here to visit their site.

And if you enjoyed this project, then you just might love these as well: 

How to Install a Sprinkler System

5 DIY Plumbing Tools Everyone Should Own

How to Fix a Leaky Faucet

Thanks for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time! 

I’m currently tackling a backyard overhaul project and as part of it, I need to install a few new irrigation zones. I installed this small succulent garden a few years ago which doesn’t require a ton of water. With the heat of the summer, however, I’m still sick of pulling the hose out every time. So today I’m going to show you how I plan to install a sprinkler system for it and some nearby plants.

Here is a list of tools and materials you may need to tackle this project. (affiliates)

1.) Water Supply

Step one is to locate a nearby water supply. In this case I have an unused spigot behind my old shed that I plan to tap into to use as the source for this line. To determine how many sprinklers I can have on this line, I’ll have to do some basic calculations. We need to determine our flow rate, and water pressure for the house. The easiest way to test the water pressure is to use a water pressure gauge like this one and attach it to a spigot. In this case, the water pressure is just shy of 60 PSI.

Next, to determine the flow rate I use a 5 gallon bucket and turn the water on fully to see how long it takes to fill the bucket. Multiply the size of the bucket which is 5 x 60 seconds. Then divide that number by the number of seconds it took to fill. In this case, it’s around 20 seconds. So the flow rate is about 15 gallons/minute.

Once you have that number, it can help you determine how many sprinkler heads you can have on a zone or how many zones you need. In this case, I’ll be installing these pop up Rain Bird 1800 series sprinklers and a couple dedicated drip lines. You can check the flow rate of your chosen sprinkler types and what their coverage is on the manufacturer’s website. I only need about 6 sprinklers total for this zone and each head has a flow rate of less than 1 gpm so I have plenty of pressure and flow rate for the needed coverage. Depending on your layout, you’ll likely need to buy a combination of different pieces, fittings, and unions. I recommend you buy more than you need and return the unused stuff.

2.) Digging the Trench

Once all the stupid math is out of the way, it’s time for some good old manual labor! You’ll have to dig a trench to bury the line. Depending on the size of the area you’re working in and the type of soil you have, that can either be easy or a huge pain in the ass. In most cases for irrigation lines, anywhere from 8 to 12” deep is sufficient to bury your pipes; however, if you live in an area that freezes, make sure you plan to drain your lines at the end of the season so they don’t freeze and rupture during the winter. 

Once you have the digging out of the way, you can start laying out your piping and sprinkler heads. There are a lot of different products out there you can use. I typically just use schedule 40 PVC pipe because I find it easy to work with. In this case I’m using ¾” diameter schedule 40. I just work my way around, laying the pipe. Whenever I reach an area where I want a sprinkler head I use one of these ¾” tee joints with a ½” threaded outlet where I will screw in a threaded riser for the sprinkler head.  At each joint, I use purple PVC primer and cement, making sure to prime each piece and then apply plenty of cement to hold each joint together so they’re water tight.

3.) Connecting the Sprinkler System

Once I’ve laid out and installed all the sprinkler heads, it’s time to connect the line to the water supply. You have a bunch of different options for different types of zone valves here but they all basically do the same thing, they allow the water to kick on either manually when you activate the valve, or on a timer if you have it connected to an irrigation system. Some, like the one I installed here run off solar power and operate on their own.

These “anti-syphon” zone valves allow the water to flow out to the sprinkler lines, but not back-flow and contaminate your drinking water. You install your sprinkler line to the outlet side of the valve and connect the inlet side to your water supply line. Add as many zones as needed based on your flow rate and water pressure. You can even add an isolation valve like this one which allows you to shut off the water to the irrigation lines without shutting off the main water supply to the house.

Once everything is connected, let the cement cure for at least 30 minutes. Then turn on the water and check the pipes for leaks. After that, turn on your zone valve and sit back and watch your plants get watered. Then you can just backfill in your trench and that’s all it takes to install a sprinkler system.

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. It can take a little bit of time to install a sprinkler system, but once you get the hang of it, it’s a relatively simple project you can knock out by yourself and hopefully save yourself some money.

If you liked this project, check out some of my other lawn projects:

Lawnmower of the Future?

3 Things to Prepare Your Lawn for Summer

Thanks for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

It’s no secret that the world has been turned on it’s head early in 2020 as a result of the Coronavirus pandemic. Everyday items have disappeared off the shelves due to hoarding and hysteria. If you’ve tried to buy toilet paper in the last 60 days you know exactly what I’m talking about. So today I’m going to show you how to make the most of a shitty situation and install a bidet.

Click here for the tools and materials used in this project (affiliates) 

1.) Before Installing…

First you’ll need to order a bidet. Luckily, many bidet brands seem to be well stocked online. I picked up this $40 Luxe Bidet off Amazon. The price of bidets can range anywhere from $40 to $1000 depending on how many bells and whistles you want. I’m going to show you how to install this simple one that doesn’t include a heater or dryer. 

First of all, before you get started with this project you need to clean your toilet well. You’re going to get up close and personal with it so might as well take the time to clean it before you get down and dirty with it. Put your hair up and roll up your sleeves. 

2.) Installing Your Bidet

You’ll want to turn the water supply valve off at the base of the toilet. Then, flush the toilet to drain any water from the tank in the back. With the water drained, next you can remove the toilet seat. Do this by popping up the caps to access the mounting screws on the back of the seat. Using a screwdriver, loosen the mounting screws and retaining nuts from the underside of the seat and remove it.

From there, add the adjustment plates to the bidet assembly and place it on the toilet. The adjustment plates can be spun to align the mounting screws for your toilet. Next reinstall the toilet seat on top of the bidet and re-secure it in place with the mounting screws and retaining nuts underneath.

3.) Plumbing the Water Lines

After you install the bidet assembly, it’s time to shift gears to the toilet supply line. Grab a small bucket or container to catch any residual water that’s still in the toilet tank and remove the supply line from the toilet by unthreading it from the fill valve. Next, make sure the rubber gasket that came with the bidet is inserted into the included T-valve. Thread the T-valve onto the toilet fill valve assembly and make sure the outlet is facing towards the front of the toilet.

Once installed, connect the small braided hose that came with your bidet to the back of the bidet control module, and connect the supply line from the shutoff valve to the bottom of the T-valve. You may need to use thread tape to ensure a tight seal. You’ll find a small plastic wrench included with the bidet. You may also need a pair of channel lock pliers to tighten if you experience any leaks. 

Once the water lines are installed, turn the supply valve back on at the wall and fill the tank with water. If there are no leaks, it’s time to test the bidet. If you try to test it without sitting on it, beware that the water is going to launch across the room like a rocket so I recommend you test it when you plan to actually use it.

The first time you use a bidet can be a little jarring so I recommend you keep it on a low setting until you get comfortable. However, once you get used to it, I think you’ll find it difficult to go back to your old bathroom habits!

4.) Finished!

So that’s how you install a bidet! I hope you liked it and I hope you learned something. Installing a bidet is a super easy project to hopefully avoid the hassle of trying to buy TP in this world of crazy we’re all finding ourselves in! I hope you are yours are staying safe and healthy during this pandemic.

Like many people, I am trying to find ways to help out during this crisis and support those on the front lines so I have been 3D printing PPE components for medical professionals and essential personnel that I am sending for free to those in need. If you are able, you can make a small donation to help at this link. 100% of the proceeds will go towards materials, shipping, and production costs to distribute them to those that need them. If you’d like to download the files and print them for yourselves or community, there is a link down below where you can download them for free here.

If you liked this project, you might enjoy these other DIY Plumbing Projects as well:

How to Install a Bathroom Faucet

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Thanks for stopping by, I’ll see you next time!

This particular faucet is a Moen Oxby widespread faucet which means the sink has 3 holes and the outer holes are more than 4” apart. The install principles will be the same with most widespread faucets. It can take a little patience, but the end product will be worth it. 

#1: Remove the Old Faucet

Once you have the proper style faucet for your sink, step #1 is to remove the old faucet (if you are replacing it with a new one). This is a newly remodeled bathroom so I don’t have an old one to remove in this case. Make sure you remove any old caulk or sealants as well as any old gaskets that may be present so you have a nice clean sink to work with. 

#2: Install the Spout and Handles

Next, install the faucet spout and stem assembly by applying some thread tape to the stem and threading it onto the spout assembly. Apply a small bead of plumbers putty around the base of the spout assembly and Insert the spout assembly into the center hole of the sink. Mount it in place with the included hardware kit and tighten it in place using the included valve socket wrench. 

Next, thread the mounting nut and mounting washer to the valve assemblies and apply a small bead of plumbers putty around the base of the upper washer. Insert the valves assemblies from the underside of the sink and secure them in place with a washer and retaining clip. Make sure the blue colored cold valve goes in the right hole and the red colored hot valve goes in the left hole. Tighten the mounting nuts from underside to tighten the valve in place.

From there, install the faucet handles by threading them onto the valve assemblies and tightening them by hand. 

Slide the lift rod into place in the hole in the backside of the faucet. Next you can start on installing the drain assembly.

#3: Starting the Drain Assembly

Unscrew the top of the drain assembly called a waste seat and apply a bead of plumbers putty around the underside before inserting it into the drain hole in the sink. Apply some thread tape onto the drain assembly and then thread it into the waste seat from the underside and tighten it down. Make sure the threaded hole that protrudes out on drain pipe is facing the back and tighten the drain nut to secure it and the gasket in place making it water tight. You should have some squeeze out of plumbers putty in the sink itself which you can simply wipe away. 

From there you can move onto attaching the lift rod and the sink plug. Add some thread tape to the hole on the backside of the drain assembly, slide the locking nut over the ball rod, and insert it into the hole. Tighten the nut as much as possible by hand. Attach the lift strap to the lift rod and the ball rod and secure it in place with the locking clamp and tighten the screw on the lift rod. You can adjust how the lift rod operates by sliding it up and down the holes on the strapping. Make sure it works for you and then move on to installing the water lines. 

#4: Finishing the Drain Assembly and Water Lines

Attach the diverter hose by snapping the ends over the valve bodies, and the faucet stem assembly. You’ll know they’re seated properly when you hear a click. 

Assemble the P trap assembly by sliding the washer and slip nut over the end of the joint elbow, and wrap the thread in thread tape. Connect the trap, and elbow by tightening the nut by hand. Add the down pipe to the drain assembly by sliding the slip nut and washer over the drain assembly, and slide the trap assembly into the drain pipe in the wall. Once you have everything aligned, tighten the slip nuts at each joint by hand before snugging them up with a pair of channel lock pliers. 

Install your water lines from the valves and connect them to the new valves on the faucet. And lastly, turn the water on at the valves, check to see that the faucet is working properly, and check the drain assembly for any leaks. If you have a small leak, try tightening the nuts further with your pliers. And that’s it, you are done with this project. 

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. Plumbing projects can take a little bit to get used to and obviously each faucet is a little different but once you get the hang of the basics, installing a new faucet is definitely something most homeowners can tackle on their own. 

As always I encourage you to leave me a comment down below and let me know what you thought of the project and what type of project you’d like to see me tackle next. If you liked this project, check out my tutorial on unclogging a bathroom sink. Thank you for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

Plumbing is one of the things most homeowners dread, but I’m here to show you the 5 DIY plumbing tools every homeowner should own that can tackle the majority of household plumbing issues and save you from making expensive calls to a plumber.

Learning to tackle your own plumbing jobs around the house can add up to hundreds or even thousands of dollars over the life of your home and don’t worry. I’ve got your back with plenty of DIY plumbing projects to get you started.

#5.) Water Pressure Testing gauge

This tool costs around $10 and isn’t something you’ll use all the time but it’s definitely worth having in your arsenal and here’s why. If you have public water, the pressure that the town/city sends to your home is substantially higher than the pressure the valves and fixtures in your home are rated for. Your house/apartment has something like this which is a pressure regulator valve that converts the pressure the city sends to your house to levels that are safe for your valves and fixtures (usually <60 psi). Using a water pressure gauge can help you dial in your water pressure to suitable levels for your home and also help diagnose a problem like if your regulator fails like mine did last year. If that happens, the water pressure in your house spikes and can cause problems with your fixtures and create a dangerous situation with your water tank if the T&P valve is not working properly. Bottom line is, having this tool around and checking your water pressure periodically is a good way to stay on top of problems before they start.

#4) Blowtorch

Since the advent of PEX, DIY plumbing has gotten significantly easier, but if you watch some of my other videos you know I still like to use copper in moderation. Using copper requires soldering joints together and you can’t do that without a torch. Even if you aren’t comfortable or interested in soldering your own copper joints together, a blowtorch plumbing kit ($35) is still a useful tool especially if you live in an older home with galvanized piping. These pipes are threaded together and over time they can be extremely difficult to get apart.  Applying heat to them with a blowtorch can help loosen them but be careful not to breathe in the fumes that come off them as it can be dangerous. They’re also helpful for loosening stuck cleanout caps which brings me to my next tool.

#3.) Pipe Wrench

A pipe wrench ($27) is a must have if you live in an older home. There’s no way you’re getting old galvanized pipes apart without a pipe wrench and even with a pipe wrench it can be a pain in the ass. Also, the drain cleanout caps around your home are likely larger than any typical wrench you’d have lying around your home. Having a pipe wrench handy means you can easily take off a cleanout cap to access otherwise difficult clogs.

#2.) Shop Vac

A shop vac is one of my absolute go-to tools when it comes to DIY plumbing. Not only is a shop vac great for cleaning up water spills and messes from overflows, but it can also be used to clear most clogs in sink and shower drains. See the video above to see how it’s done. A shop vac is a cheaper and much more effective alternative to using costly (and often times useless) drain cleaning chemicals.

1.) Channel Locks/Adjustable Pliers

A pair of channel locks ($15) is THE tool I reach for and use in every single DIY plumbing project that I tackle whether it’s loosening up slip joints on trap assemblies, or installing shut off valves. Without a pair of these you’re pretty much not going to be able to tackle any plumbing projects which is why I’d consider them the most valuable tool in my tool pouch when it comes to plumbing.

You can grab all these tools for less than $100 which is less than you’d pay a plumber to come out for a single visit and with them you can tackle probably 90% of household plumbing issues.

Thank you guys so much for checking out this content. If you enjoyed it, consider checking out some of my other DIY Plumbing Projects.

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