Disclosure: This video and article contains a paid product integration by ZEP USA. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

Cleaning the Chipped Area

This chip is a medium sized chip and is about 6” wide, and about an inch deep.
So the first thing we need to do is clean out the chip of any debris or loose chunks. Start by breaking out the loose chunks with a chisel or other tool like a screwdriver.

Once you have any loose chunks removed, use a wire brush to loosen up any debris and dirt that have built up over time. Getting the surface of the chipped out area clean is the most important part of this project. You need to make sure your new patch can firmly adhere to the old concrete.

Once you have the loose material removed from the chip, you’ll need to use a concrete cleaning product like Zep’s Driveway and Concrete Pressure Wash Concentrate.

This Concrete and Driveway cleaner is perfect for this application because it is a concentrated concrete cleaner that easily removes tire marks, dirt, grease, and oil from any concrete, brick, or asphalt surfaces. For a small chip, you can apply a small amount of the concentrated cleaner to a container of water at the mixture indicated on the bottle. Or you can do what I did and take the opportunity to add a diluted mixture to a pressure washer and just clean your whole driveway. Pay careful attention to the chipped out areas and make sure you thoroughly clean them.

Apply Concrete Patching

Once the chipped out area has had some time to dry, next you’ll need to get a small
amount of a concrete vinyl patching compound like this one. These are available off the shelf at your local big box store and are super easy to use. Simply add a small
amount of water to the powdered mixture. Then mix it up until you have a peanut
butter like consistency, and apply it to the chipped out area with a masonry or
disposable trowel.

You can feather out the surrounding area to match the existing
concrete. For corner chips or areas next to expansion joints, you may have to take a little extra time to form the patch to follow the existing contours. Once the compound has set up for about 20 minutes, use a grouting sponge and some water to clean any excess patching compound from around the patched area and create a seamless patch. For deep or large chips, you may have to apply several coats of the patching
compound to fill the void. And if the area around your chip is heaved, you may need
to do some additional steps of flattening that area using an angle grinder and a diamond grinding wheel.

So that’s it for this episode of Home School’d. I hope you guys enjoyed it and I hope
you learned something. If you’re interested in purchasing any of the products I used
in this video, links to all the tools and materials can be found in the description
below. I also have tips on how to fix a crack in concrete, so check that out here.

Thank you guys so much for checking out this post. For more outdoor projects, click on some of the links below.

DIY Paver Walkway Install

Find the Right Pressure Washer for you!

https://pressurewashr.com/

In this project tutorial, I’m going to show you how I built my custom DIY concrete sink for my master bathroom, which saved me hundreds of dollars as opposed to having one custom made for me.

Materials & Tools

Depending on the size of the sink you are creating, you’ll likely need some of or all of the following materials. The sink I created is 21″ x 48″. I purchased many of the products I used in this build from Expressions LTD, and while some of the components were quite expensive, it is still a much cheaper alternative to ordering a custom sink.

Materials Required:

• Rough rock rubber edge liner (optional)
• Silicone
• Sink mold
• Mold release wax
• Rubber sink knockouts (You could save yourself some money by using foam instead)
• Denatured alcohol
• 2 pieces of 48″ rebar or wire mesh
• Crete-Lease release agent spray
• Quikrete 5000 or a similar concrete mixture
• Melamine sheets for form

Tools required:

• Concrete vibrator, sander, or sawzall (without blade) to vibrate form
• Fine-grit sandpaper (120/220 grit)
• Turbo cup wheel & Angle Grinder (optional)

Step #1: Building the Lower Form

The sink form I built is 50″ x 21 1/2″ x 2″ deep because I want a half inch overhang around the vanity top sides and front. (my finished vanity base is 48″ – the rough rock liner adds an additional 1/2″ on each side inside the form) The form is screwed together with drywall screws and then I use silicone to seal all the edges and hold the liner in place.

You can use any color silicone you like, I used black because it is easier to see against the white melamine.

In the center, attach the sink mold. Measure and trace the area where you want to attach your sink mold. Then, attach the mold to the melamine with a small bead of silicone sealer at each corner. This will help level the mold initially, then run a bead of silicone along the outside edge.

I’ve coated the mold with 3 coats of mold release wax to prevent the concrete from sticking. I also have 3 rubber sink knockouts that are siliconed in place where the fixture will go. Make sure you know what sink fixture you are going to use first so you will know where to place your knockouts and how many you will need.

Step #2: Building the Upper Form

Next, build the second part of the form on top of this base. I’m building this second part of the form separate from the base to prevent excess debris falling into the pour area. Once the second form is built, it sits on top of the first form. The box is 2″ wider than the sink mold on all sides and sloped in the front to follow the slope of the sink mold.

Clean the entire form with denatured alcohol to get rid of any excess silicone and debris. Then add a thorough coat of a release agent spray to help prevent the concrete from sticking to the edge liner and sink knockouts.

I also have 2 – 48″ pieces of 3/8″ rebar to help reinforce the vanity top. I’m placing one in front and another in back to help support any additional weight. I’ve had many comments and questions over the years saying I didn’t add enough reinforcement; however it’s been over 3 years and the sink has held up great. You can also use wire mesh throughout if you choose.

Step #3: Mixing & Pouring the Concrete

I recommend mixing and pouring the concrete in the same room/area. I made the mistake of mixing it one bucket at a time in the garage and pouring it indoors where I built the form. (Mistake) I ended up having to carry it outside later to sand it anyway.

Start by filling in the lower form with concrete. This part may seem simple, but it will be pretty labor intensive. Once you’ve filled in the lower form, vibrate it to remove any bubbles. Now, add the upper form on top of the mold and fill this area as well. Make sure that there are no small gaps or holes where the concrete might fill in, or it might cause you some headaches. (Happened to me because I had a small gap)

Once you’ve poured in all the concrete (mine took almost 3 bags of Quikrete 5000) cover the wet concrete in plastic and let it sit for 4 days before removing the forms.

Before Moving on, Watch Part 2 of the Build Here:

DIY Concrete Sink Part 2

Step #4: Refining the Sink

After the concrete has cured for about 4 days, you can now begin removing the liners and the mold. Once they are removed, go over it with some fine grit sand paper, which should help expose any remaining bug holes that will need to be filled.

Then hit it with a slurry coat, a very fine cement that helps fill the small holes and gaps created during the drying process. You can use pure portland cement for this or buy a slurry mix. Go over the surface of the sink and ensure that these holes are filled and the surface is smooth.

Use a turbo cup wheel on an angle grinder to grind down and clean up the dried concrete if you need to. Mine was a little uneven on the bottom of the sink itself so I decided to clean it up a little bit. This is a good time to deal with any balance issues or imperfections you might come across on the underside.

Lastly, add several coats of concrete sealer if you choose to. I went with a high gloss sealer from Home Depot. You can also add an acid stain to give your sink a different colored look if you choose to, but if you’re like me, you may choose to keep the raw concrete look.

Step #5: Finished Product!

And that just about does it! Check out the video to see the whole build in process and I also talk about a couple mistakes I made as well, so that you can avoid encountering the same hurdles in your project.

If you liked this project, check out some of these other DIY build projects:

DIY Cheese Cutting Board

DIY Triangle Shelves <$20

If you like this guide or find it helpful, consider subscribing to my YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/mrfixit

Thanks for checking out this project!