Today, we’re tackling the ins and outs of installing a GFCI outlet. Why? Because my buddy’s bathroom had zero power, and I needed to install a fancy bidet. No juice, no spritz – so let’s fix that.

What’s a GFCI and Why Do You Need One?

GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. Fancy name, simple job: it shuts off power if it detects an imbalance in the electrical current, which could mean water and electricity are getting a little too friendly. That’s why GFCIs are required in bathrooms, kitchens, and other moisture-prone areas.

Step 1: Find a Power Source

Since running a whole new circuit from the panel isn’t an easy task (unless you love breaking through walls like the Kool-Aid Man), we’re looking for an existing power source. In this case, I had two options:

1. Tap into the light switches inside the bathroom.
2. Use the power from a closet light switch on the other side of the wall.

I chose the closet switch because I felt like it kept things cleaner.

Step 2: Cutting and Fishing the Wire

First, I popped off the cover plate of the switch to check if I had the holy trinity of wiring: hot, neutral, and ground. Luckily, all three were present. Next, I punched out one of the knockouts in the switch box and fed a new wire down the wall to where I wanted my GFCI outlet. I used an old work box, which is great for retrofit jobs because it clamps onto the drywall instead of needing nails or screws. Just cut a hole in the wall, fish the wire through, and boom – progress.

However, life isn’t always that easy. I hit a fire block in the wall, which meant the wire wasn’t dropping as expected. Instead of tearing up the bathroom wall, I cut into the closet side, removed a small section of drywall, notched out the fire block, and fished the wire through. Minimal mess, maximum success.

Step 3: Wiring the GFCI Outlet

Now for the fun part – wiring up the outlet. GFCIs have three main screws:

• Brass/Black – Connects to the hot wire (black) *black touches brass, save your ass!
• Silver – Connects to the neutral wire (white)
• Green – Connects to the ground (bare copper wire)

Many GFCIs also have load terminals (covered with yellow tape), which allow you to protect additional outlets downstream. In this case, we’re just installing one GFCI, so we’re keeping it simple.

I stripped back the sheathing on the wires, connected black to brass, white to silver, and ground to green. After carefully stuffing the wires back into the box (without looking like I was forcing a sleeping bag back into its pouch), I secured the outlet and put on the cover plate.

Step 4: Connecting to the Power Source

Back at the switch, I turned off the power (because I prefer to be stimulated by coffee), removed the switch, and identified the line wire (the one bringing power from the panel). You can use either:

1. A voltage detector pen (quick but not always foolproof)
2. A voltmeter (more accurate & professional – look for ~120V between hot and neutral)

Once I confirmed the correct wires, I used a wire nut to pigtail a short black wire from the hot wire bundle and connected it back to the switch. This way, both the switch and the new GFCI outlet would get constant power.

Step 5: Testing and Buttoning Up

Before closing everything up, I flipped the breaker back on and tested the GFCI outlet. The light came on, the reset/test buttons worked, and the outlet was ready to supply power to my buddy’s high-tech bidet.

With everything confirmed, I buttoned up the switch, reinstalled the cover plates, and patched up the drywall in the closet. (Well, mostly – my buddy needed a paint sample, so I left a chunk out for him. DIY teamwork at its finest.)

Final Thoughts

Installing a GFCI might sound intimidating, but with a little patience (and maybe some drywall touch-ups), it’s totally doable. Plus, it adds an essential layer of electrical safety – no one wants a shocking experience on the toilet.

Now that the power is flowing, it’s time for the real mission: installing that bidet. Stay tuned for the next video where we bring the bathroom into the 21st century.

Happy wiring – and as always, don’t cross the streams (or wires).

This post contains paid product mention from GE. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Step 1: Diagnose the Problem

In this case, the leak in the garage below only seemed to occur during showers. This indicates water was escaping outside the shower—likely due to improper use of a shower curtain or gaps in the sealant at the tub’s edges. To fix this, resealing the tub and shower was the best solution.

Step 2: Remove the Old Sealant

The first and most time-consuming step is removing the old sealant. Use a utility knife, razor blade scraper, or trowel to scrape off all the old material. Be thorough—clean edges are essential for the new sealant to adhere properly.

Step 3: Choose the Right Sealant

For flexible, modern fiberglass tubs, a durable sealant is key. GE Sealant Supreme Silicone is an excellent choice. It’s 100% waterproof, offers permanent flexibility, and withstands the natural movement of the tub over time.

Step 4: Prepare the Tub

Before sealing, fill the tub with water. This step applies maximum pressure to the tub’s joints, ensuring the sealant can adjust and contract properly once the water is removed.

Use painter’s tape along the edges of the tub to create clean lines. This simple trick helps achieve a professional-looking finish, even if your application isn’t perfect.

Step 5: Apply the Sealant

Start with the areas where the tub meets the tile. If the tile work is neat, a clear silicone sealant is ideal because it blends seamlessly and doesn’t draw attention. For areas where the grout lines or edges are uneven, like where the tub meets the floor, white silicone is better at covering imperfections.

Apply steady, even pressure while running the sealant along the edges. Once you’ve finished, carefully peel off the painter’s tape before the sealant dries.

Step 6: Let It Cure

Leave the water in the tub for a few hours after sealing, then drain it to allow the sealant to fully cure. This ensures a watertight bond that will last.

Bonus Tip: Save Your Leftover Sealant

Don’t toss the leftover silicone! Wrap the tip of the tube with painter’s tape to keep it sealed and ready for your next project.

Why Resealing Is Important

Resealing your bathtub and shower is a simple yet essential DIY task that prevents water damage, mold growth, and costly repairs. Plus, with quality products like GE Sealant Supreme Silicone, you’ll get a long-lasting, professional-grade result.

Shop DIY Essentials:
Get all the products featured in this tutorial—including the GE Sealant Supreme Silicone—on my Amazon storefront here.

With these steps, your bathtub and shower will be sealed for good, saving you time, stress, and money. Ready to tackle your own DIY sealing project? Good luck!

This post contains paid product mention from GE. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Why Proper Installation and Sealing Matter

The primary cause of window and door failure is improper installation, which often involves inadequate air and water sealing. Air and water sealing are essential for ensuring that windows and doors function correctly and maintain energy efficiency. Poor sealing can lead to issues like drafts, water damage, and reduced energy performance, which can ultimately cost you more in repairs and utility bills.

Replacement vs. New Construction Windows

When updating your home’s windows, you’ll typically choose between replacement windows and new construction windows. Replacement windows are designed to fit into existing frames without removing the interior and exterior trim. While this makes installation easier, it can result in less effective sealing.

On the other hand, new construction windows come with a nailing flange that adds an extra layer of protection against air and water infiltration. Despite the additional work required, new construction windows generally offer better sealing and weatherproofing.

Step-by-Step Guide to Proper Window Installation and Sealing

Step 1: Prepping the Rough Opening

1. Measure the Rough Opening: Ensure the rough opening is slightly larger than the window, usually about 1/2 to 1 inch wider. This allows space for proper sealing. The exact dimensions for your windows should be noted in the installation instructions.
2. Angle the Sill: The bottom of the rough opening (the sill) should be angled slightly towards the exterior. This ensures that any water that gets behind the window will drain out.
3. Apply Flashing Tape: Use rubberized, waterproof flashing tape to seal the sill. Apply it across the bottom and up the sides of the rough opening. For corners, you can use pre-made plastic corner flashings or create your own with stretchable tape. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for rolling the tape if required.

Step 2: Dry Fitting the Window

Place the window into the rough opening to check the fit. Add shims at the bottom sill to create a small, even gap around the window for air sealing. Ensure the window is plumb and level before proceeding.

Step 3: Final Window Installation

1. Seal Around the Window: Use a premium 100% silicone sealant, like GE Sealants Window and Door Supreme, to create a continuous bead around the top and sides of the window. Avoid sealing the bottom entirely to allow for any potential water drainage.
2. Apply Flashing Tape: Flash around the window, starting with the sides and then the top. Ensure that the sides overlap with the top flashing. Consider adding a Z flashing above the window to help direct water away.
3. Trim and Finish: After installing the window, seal around the trim with a GE product that matches your window and trim color. Use 100% silicone for the best seal, but if you need a paintable option, GE’s Siliconized Acrylic or Paintable Silicone Supreme are excellent choices.

Interior Sealing

For the interior, focus on air sealing to eliminate drafts. Use GE’s insulating foam specifically designed for windows and doors. Spray the foam into gaps around the window frame, let it cure, and trim off any excess. Finish the installation by sealing edges with GE’s painters quick-dry sealant.

Conclusion

Proper window and door installation is essential for maintaining energy efficiency and preventing damage. By following these steps and using high-quality GE Sealants, you can ensure that your windows and doors are sealed for good, providing you with lasting performance and peace of mind.

For more information on GE Sealants and to explore their range of products, check out my amazon storefront. Thank you for reading, and happy sealing!

This post contains paid product mention from BioBidet by Bemis. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Enhanced Personal Hygiene:

In my opinion, bidets provide a superior level of cleanliness compared to traditional toilet paper. The gentle water spray effectively cleanses without the abrasiveness of paper, leaving you feeling fresh and confident after every use. This can be particularly beneficial for individuals with sensitive skin or those prone to irritation (like myself). TMI? Maybe but this post is about washing your butt so get over it!

Reduction in Toilet Paper Usage:

One of the most compelling benefits of bidets is their potential to significantly reduce toilet paper consumption. As a result, this does a few beneficial things.

1. Eco-Friendly: With a bidet, you’ll use less toilet paper, contributing to a more sustainable and eco-friendly lifestyle. And while it may seem counter intuitive, Bidets contribute to water conservation by using significantly less water than the production and disposal processes associated with toilet paper.
2. Cost Savings in the Long Run: While the initial investment in a bidet may seem higher than purchasing toilet paper, the long-term savings can be substantial.
3. Less Plumbing Issues: Considering the reduced need for toilet paper, you’re likely to have less clogs and overall plumbing issues as a result.

Health Benefits:

Bidets have been associated with various health benefits. They can help prevent and alleviate conditions such as hemorrhoids and urinary tract infections. The gentle water stream promotes better hygiene in sensitive areas, reducing the risk of irritation and infection. I’ve personally dealt with irritation and hemorrhoid issues in the past. Utilizing a bidet has literally been a night and day difference for me in my day-to-day comfort level. In my home I’ve installed the BioBidet USPA Pro in several bathrooms and absolutely love it!

Accessible for All Ages:

Bidets are inclusive and can benefit individuals of all ages, from children to the elderly. These groups can especially benefit from the use of a bidet as some may have difficulty adequately cleaning themselves after using the restroom. Bidets provide an easy and effective way to maintain personal hygiene, making them a valuable addition to households with diverse age groups.

Comfort: 

Gone are the days of sitting down to a chilled toilet seat in the winter months and utilizing frigid water to cleanse yourself! Modern bidets offer a comfortable heated alternative. Many have heated seats, adjustable water temperature, and included warm air dryers to maximize comfort. Check out the full list of units available at biobidet.com and see which features are right for you!

Incorporating a bidet into your bathroom routine is not just a trend. For me, it’s a decision that aligns with health, sustainability, and comfort. From reducing environmental impact to enhancing personal hygiene, the benefits of bidets are numerous. Make the switch today and experience a revolutionary upgrade to your bathroom routine. Your body, your wallet, and the planet will thank you.

Ready to get started?

Visit biobidet.com and check out their full lineup of bidets and choose the one that’s right for you! Use Promo Code FIXIT10 at checkout for 10% OFF! Good luck and happy flushing!

DIY Fall Homeowner Checklist: 10 Things You Need to Be Doing Now!

1.) Change Your HVAC Filters

If I sound like a broken record about this it’s because it’s one of the simplest and beneficial things you can do for your heating & air conditioning system. So many potentially problematic issues can be avoiding if you just change your filters out regularly. (Every 3 months if you can) For more info on the benefits of changing your filters regularly, check out this previous article I wrote.

2.) Flush Your Hot Water Tank

I’m always surprised by how many homeowners I talk to that have never drained and flushed their hot water tank. Understandable I suppose, it’s not something you learn about in school. Flushing your water tank is really simple and it helps prolong the life of the tank. Over time, lime, calcium, and other minerals in your water can create deposits in the tank. (Especially if you have hard water) Periodically draining your water tank doesn’t allow those sediments to build up and cause problems with the heating elements that can shorten the life of the tank. The middle of the winter is the worst time to not have hot water in your home!

While you’re at it, it’s not a bad idea to turn the water temperature down on your tank a few degrees. Warm water in the winter months feels warmer as the air is cooler. Save yourself some energy costs by decreasing the temperature a little bit. You won’t notice and it’ll help your wallet.

3.) Clean Your Gutters

This is a big one! Cleaning gutters makes sure that your gutters are working properly and can drain the water away from your house as snow, rain, and ice freeze and thaw. If you don’t have clean gutters, water can turn to ice and build up in the gutters which can build into ice dams that can get under your roof and cause major water damage inside. Not only that but gutters that are frozen solid can get really heavy and separate from the house which can fall and cause major problems. A quick cleaning can save you a lot of potential headache.

4.) Seal Drafts

A drafty house in the winter is no fun. Finding leaky areas now and sealing them up not only keeps your house more comfortable in the winter months, but can also save you big money on your energy bill. Common culprits of drafts in your home are around electrical outlets, worn out weather stripping on doors, and older single pane windows. For more tips on how to seal up drafts, areas to target, and ways to save on energy costs this winter check out this article.

5.) Winterize Your Pipes

If you’re in an area that freezes, it’s time to winterize your pipes. Any outdoor plumbing like sprinkler systems need to be drained of any water that could potentially freeze and cause a rupture. Any hose bibs or piping that sticks up from the ground should be wrapped with insulating pipe tape or insulating foam and UV Proof tape.

Inside the house it’s also not a bad idea to wrap any water lines or piping that runs through the foundation, sills, or is in close proximity to exterior walls. If you commonly battle freezing pipes in the winter you’re likely familiar with trouble spots. Wrapping pipes helps insulate to prevent freezing.

Ruptured pipes can cause big problems both inside and out. Do yourself a favor and spend a few minutes now and potentially save yourself a huge headache.

If you want to save yourself a hassle of draining exterior hose bibs down the line, consider updating to a House Hydrant from Aquor Water Systems. 

6.) Clean & Fertilize Your Lawn

Homeowners commonly overlook their lawn when preparing their homes for winter, but a simple winterizing fertilizer can help your lawn rebound quickly come the spring. Do your best to rake any leaves and debris around the lawn and apply a winterizing fertilizer all around the lawn. There are a ton of great products out there, but a slow release, nitrogen rich fertilizer will continue to feed your lawn all winter long. Make sure your lawn and home are prepped for winter and ready for spring.

7.) Fix Chips and Cracks in Concrete

If you have a crack in your driveway, sidewalk, foundation, or walkway going into the winter months you can bet that it’ll be worse come the spring! Frost heave is a nightmare for concrete cracks. Water penetrates the crack, freezes and expands, and then lifts and separates the crack even more. If there’s a spot where this can happen around your home it 100% will happen. You’ll be left with a bigger mess to deal with in the spring. Look around your home and make the small fix now before it turns into a bigger fix later.

8.) Tune up Your Small Engines

Now is the time to do all the small engine repairs and maintenance on your snowblower, lawnmower, and make sure your snow shovels are in good shape. Doing basic maintenance on your small engine items like oil & filter changes, carburetor cleaning, and air filter changes can make sure those machines are ready to go when you need them. Tuning up your snowblower may seem an obvious one but doing end of season maintenance on your lawnmower also makes sure it’s good to be stored for the winter and will be ready to go when the spring rolls around.

9.) Have Your Chimneys Cleaned and Inspected

There’s nothing better than sitting around a fire on a blustery winter night but they’re also a leading cause of house fires every year. In fact there are over 25,000 chimney fires every year in the United States. These fires cause hundreds of millions of dollars in damages each year. Making sure your chimney is clean is a critical part of making sure your home is prepped for winter.

As fires burn, a dark tar like substance called creosote is formed from the combustion process. It builds up and condenses on the walls of the chimney over time. If not cleaned regularly, this buildup can reach a highly flammable threshold. Once a fire is lit and reaches the creosote lined chimney, it will quickly ignite and be extremely difficult to extinguish and contain. These fires can easily spread to other areas of the home and are extremely dangerous.

Click here to learn how you can clean the chimney yourself. Or you can hire a professional to typically clean your chimney for around $200-$500. Find a certified chimney sweep in your area.

10.) Check Your Smoke Alarms and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Whether you have hard wired or battery smoke alarms and CO Detectors make sure they are working properly by testing them. Make sure the batteries are changed and working. For hardwired units, use the test button to make sure they’re working properly.

Carbon monoxide is caused by the incomplete burning of fuels including natural gas, oil, coal, propane, and wood. Carbon monoxide is a tasteless, odorless, and potentially fatal gas. It can quickly become a problem in a closed up winter home without adequate air flow. Many of the mechanicals in our homes are powered by one of the fuels that cause carbon monoxide poisoning. Make sure you have the added protection of a quality detector for the safety of you and your loved ones.

For more information about the dangers of carbon monoxide, check out this article by the CDC.

I hope you enjoy this content and I hope it helps you get your home prepped for winter!

To view all my recommended tools, and winterizing products, make sure you visit my Amazon storefront.

Here are a few other articles and DIY home maintenance tips you may enjoy.

5 DIY Ways to Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

Warm Your Home & LOWER Your Heat Bill

You only get one chance to make a first impression! It’s true in all aspects of life including your front door. Unfortunately when it came to our house, the front entryway was looking pretty drab and gross. Not to worry, I tackled a full DIY Entryway Overhaul complete with front Door Restoration and new hardware with the help from my friends from Minwax and Schlage! If you’re interested in watching the whole entry transformation, check out the full video here.

This project contains paid product integrations from Minwax and Schlage Locks. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

The Issue:

The various shades of brown paint on the doors and surrounding area really don’t stand out against the beige brick that features on the majority of the house. Also, the solid wood doors have been painted over umpteen times and have lost their character.

The Goal:

The goal of the project is to bring some visual interest to the front entryway with sharp contrast against the beige brick, and a combination of tones and textures.

Step 1: Paint (the Walls)

I think when it comes to painting, there’s not much to say. Pretty self explanatory, right? Well there are a few helpful tips that I can share about painting to make your life easier.

1. 1.  Make sure you choose the right nap for your roller! Nap refers to the length of the fibers on the roller. A higher Nap means longer fibers so it is better suited to get into the nooks and crannies of a rougher surface. A lower nap number means it’s better suited for a smoother surface. For this project I’m using a 3/4″ nap for the rough walls and a 1/4″ nap for the smooth trim pieces.
   2. Taping – I’m not a huge fan of using a lot of tape for a couple reasons. #1 is that it creates a lot of waste to deal with, and #2 is it tends to give people a false sense of security and lets you be sloppy. However, a lot of tapes bleed under the edge and you end up having to fix it later anyway, adding a lot of time to the project. I use Frog Tape mostly and make sure to wet the edge of the tape when I put it up which activates their edge lock adhesive and gives much cleaner tape lines.

Step 2: Strip Paint On the Doors

There’s no secret in saying that restoring old doors is a lot of work and not the most fun one can have on a weekend! However, replacing wooden doors can also be extremely expensive so if you can spare the time and don’t mind a little hard work, you can get beautiful results. The first step is to use paint stripper. Add a generous coat(s) and let it sit for about 15 minutes and then come back through with a good, solid metal scraper and take your time peeling the layers off. You may have to do it several times depending on the amount of paint on the doors. Wear your gloves, eye protection, and a good respirator because this stuff can be noxious!

Step 3: Sand the Doors

After stripping, it’s not uncommon to feel like you’ve really made a mistake. It will likely look horrible! But don’t worry, get out a sander with some 80 grit paper and get to work. You’ll quickly start to see the raw wood and start to feel better about your decision. Work your way up through the grits until at least 220 grit. (I usually go 80 grit, 120 grit, and 220 grit)

Pay close attention to the details. The more detail your door has, the harder it’s going to be. It can be pretty tricky to get into those spaces but I recommend getting a small wire brush, sanding sponges, and utilizing paint stripper as much as possible to make your life easier. It takes time, there’s no way around that!

Step 4: (Pre) Stain the Doors

Choosing the right stain products for your doors is important. I like to use Oil-Based products on any outdoor project because it provides a more durable, harder finish over the longterm than its water-based counterpart. DON’T MIX AND MATCH oil and water-based. I also always like to use a quality Minwax Oil-based pre-stain conditioner. The pre-stain conditioner evens out the wood to create a more uniform stain look and remove any unsightly blotching that can sometimes occur. It’s especially important on old doors that have previously had other finishes previously applied. I applied it with a cheap chip brush and let it set up for about 30 minutes before staining.

For this project I chose the Minwax Oil-based Early American stain for the doors. I thought it gave a nice, warm contrast to the green and tan trim we chose for our color scheme. For staining, I also used a chip brush and followed it up with a rag to wipe off any excess after it sat on the wood for a few minutes. For more staining tips, check out this previous project article.

Step 5: Seal the Doors

A quality top coat can be a make or break step for restoring doors. In professional setups, they have a dedicated spray booth to get the best quality application possible. But you’re not a pro so just do your best. You can still get a great finish. I chose to use the Minwax Oil-based Helmsman Spar Urethane on these doors. It’s a great, durable finish that will provide years of UV and weather protection. I applied it with a brand new, high quality bristle brush in the direction of the wood grain and allowed it to set up according to the dry time on the can. Then I sanded the doors lightly with 400 grit paper and applied another coat. Then I repeated that process again for a solid 3 coat application.

Step 6: Update the Hardware

Lastly, to get a modern/rustic vibe, it’s time to update the hardware on the doors. I used the Century Matte Black Hardware and Century Touch Deadbolt from my friends at Schlage Locks.These doors required a little updating in order to install the new hardware which included installing a new patch in the old strike plate area and chiseling it out so it has a nice finished look. If you want to learn more about how to fix your old doors to install new hardware and update strike plates, make sure you check out this video where I walk you through the whole process! 

So that’s it for this project! I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it inspires you to tackle a door project you may have been too nervous to take on! 

If you’re interested in learning more about staining and/or restoring old furniture and household items, check out these other articles.

Restoring a 100 Year Old Tool Chest

How to Refinish Wood Furniture

1. Tune up your tools

Getting your tools ready is your first step because it makes sure everything is functioning properly and keeps you from going out and wasting money on plants that you plant too early that might get killed off by a late frost. (Guilty!) Sharpen your tools and blades, change oil and filters and do any small engine maintenance that you didn’t do in the fall.

Now If you’ve transitioned to mostly battery outdoor tools like I have, the maintenance is minimal but get your batteries charged up (Showcase the Stihl mower/tools), and get the tools cleaned up. 

2. Raking, Trimming & Dethatching

You can start trimming back some overgrowth on limbs and trees in early spring and focus on removing any damaged branches that occurred over winter. However, when it comes to raking – Don’t Start too early – bees and some other beneficial insects can overwinter in leaves and debris piles. Wait until the weather is consistently in the 50’s before you clean everything up. Raking can help get sun and nutrients to the soil but don’t do it too early. 

The same can be said for dethatching. Dethatching is the process of removing the thick layer of dead grass and organic material that accumulates around the base of your grass where it meets the soil. It can be beneficial to remove to allow more nutrients into the soil and to mitigate fungal growth but doing it too early in the year can actually harm your lawn’s chances of success. Instead of dethatching early, You can Use a leaf blower to help loosen up some of that matted grass and save your dethatching until later in the year. 

3. Compost

Once it’s warm enough to rake, all the materials you’re raked up from your lawn make great compost to get started for your garden. The dead leaves and small twigs make great additions to your food scraps and waste from the kitchen which will turn into valuable nutrients for your garden. 

I picked up a 50 gallon Compost Tumbler from Northern Tool which is pretty easy to assemble and is easy on your back because it’s elevated and on wheels so it’s easy to move around. 

4. Mowing and mulching

If you don’t want to rake up all those annoying leaves, cutting your lawn at around 2 – 2.5” in mid spring can actually add some nutrients to the soil and help fertilize your lawn. Don’t cut it too short early in the year as it can shock the grass before it’s fully awoken from it’s dormant state. 

5. Check Your Soil Temperature and/or Do a Soil Test

Before you move onto any other steps it’s best to make sure your soil is ready to handle any seeding or fertilizer. Use a thermometer to check soil temperature and make sure your soil is consistently in the 50 degree range. If you fertilize your soil too early, you risk wasting money because the soil isn’t capable of handling the nutrients until it warms up. High nitrogen fertilizers too early in the season can cause more damage than good. 

If you’re not a gardener and don’t have a soil thermometer you can also use a long screwdriver or sharp object to check the soil. Stick the screwdriver into the soil. It should be able to reach a depth of about 6 inches into the soil relatively easily and without tremendous effort. If you’re having trouble getting the screwdriver down that far, it still may be a little early to move on to the next steps. 

6. Aeration

You can aerate in Spring if you need to and you want to jumpstart your lawn but I personally think aerating in the fall months is best. Soil temperatures should be at least 55-60 degrees before you get started. Aerating loosens up the compaction of the soil and allows water and nutrients to get into the soil, but it also provides an opportunity for weeds to germinate easily and can actually dry out your lawn more.  

If your lawn was stressed out last fall, you might want to reconsider aerating in the spring and focus on some of the next things instead. 

7. Overseeding & Fertilizing

Once the soil temperatures have increased to about 60 degrees and up, now is the time to fertilize and overseed your lawn. If the soil is not warm enough to uptake the seeds or nutrients you’re throwing your money away. 

8. Don’t Use Weed Killers on your lawn before it’s woken from dormancy

Weed killers and crab grass blockers can actually inhibit the growth of your grass and specifically any new seed you’re trying to germinate. If you’re going to use these products, make sure you wait til late Spring once your grass has woken up and any new seed has germinated fully. 

9. Try Not to Roll Your Lawn in the Spring Unless you have to

Rolling your lawn Compresses it and Makes it tough for nutrients, light, and water to get to your soil. It’s not uncommon for there to be high and low spots in your lawn that occur over winter, but the best time to roll your lawn is in the fall months when it is soft, full of nutrients, and ready to go into dormancy over the winter months. 

10. Consider Going Drought Tolerant

If you’re continually battling to get the results you want from your lawn year-after-year, it might be time to consider doing some lawn alternatives to make your life easier and cheaper. There are a ton of options out there including synthetic turf which I’ve previously done a video on that I’ll leave a link to, as well as xeriscaping, and adding native plants and grasses to your lawn.

Thanks for checking out this article! I hope it helps you get your lawn ready for the warm summer days ahead! If you enjoyed this article, here are a few more you might like.

Do These 3 Things to Get Your Lawn Ready for Summer!

How to Install Sod

Artificial intelligence (AI) is not just some far-off futuristic concept anymore – it’s making its way into our homes as we speak. We’re on the cusp of the biggest transformation our society has experienced since the introduction of the internet. While we may not have the flying cars and teleportation devices we were promised as kids, at least we can have our very own personal robot overlords. Sure the potential of AI as a whole is absolutely terrifying (thanks Skynet), but it’s here to stay! So let’s take a look at how AI will impact our homes of the future whether we like it or not! 

Imagine waking up to your AI assistant robot with a pleasant voice saying, “Good morning, sunshine. Time to rise and shine, and dominate the day like the unstoppable force of nature that you are.” You stumble out of bed, bleary-eyed, and mumble a barely coherent “thanks” before being bombarded with a barrage of options for your morning routine.

As you head to the bathroom, the lights turn on automatically, and your smart mirror reminds you of your appointments and meetings for the day. Your AI assistant knows your coffee order and starts brewing a fresh cup while you brush your teeth. 

Then, it’s off to work, and your self-driving car navigates through traffic while you catch up on the news or take a power nap. Your home is secure, thanks to your trusty AI security system that alerts you of any suspicious activity, while your robot vacuum keeps your floors spotless.

But the fun doesn’t stop there. Imagine coming home from a long day at work, and your AI assistant greets you at the door with your favorite drink and snack ready to go. Your smart thermostat has already adjusted to your preferred temperature, and your favorite tunes are playing on your AI-powered sound system.

As you relax on the couch, your AI-powered TV suggests shows based on your viewing habits and recommends a few new series you might like. Your AI assistant even reminds you of your dinner reservation and makes sure you’re dressed appropriately.

And finally, let’s talk about companionship. We all get lonely sometimes, but with AI, you’ll never be alone. There are already AI-powered robots that can chat with you, play games with you, and even give you a hug. Who needs human friends when you have a robot buddy?

In conclusion, artificial intelligence is no longer a thing of science fiction, and it’s making its way into our homes, making our lives easier, and more convenient. Could it all go terribly wrong when the machines become self aware? Absolutely! Regardless of the outcome, we’re all in for one hell of ride in the months and years ahead!  

So, get ready to welcome your robot overlords, because they’re here to stay!

Step 1: Identify the Problem

The first step is to figure out what’s causing the problem. Is it a leaky flapper? A busted fill valve? Is the flapper chain just stuck? Or did your toddler throw their toy down the toilet again? Take a deep breath and lift the lid off the tank. SOME toilets have different mechanisms but for the sake of this project we’ll assume you have a traditional fill valve/ flapper combination.

Check the Flapper

The flapper is the little rubber thingy that controls the water flow from the tank to the bowl. It’s usually connected to the flush lever with a chain. Sometimes the fix is as simple as freeing the chain from whatever it is stuck on. If the rubber flapper is damaged or worn, it can cause the toilet to run. Don’t worry, this is an easy fix. First you’ll need to shut off the water at the valve on the wall behind the toilet. Next, just remove the old flapper and replace it with a new one. There are a few different mounting types so make sure you check how it mounts on the hinge side. Often times ones that say “Universal” don’t match the universe you’re living in! Once you replace it, turn the water back on and give it few test flushes to make sure it’s still not leaking.

Inspect the Fill Valve

“Okay, what’s a fill valve?” The fill valve is responsible for refilling the toilet tank with water after you flush. If it’s not working properly, it can cause the toilet to run continuously. Usually a fill valve has a float on it which triggers the water to turn on and off. If the float is stuck down or damaged, the water won’t know when to shut off. To check it, lift the float mechanism up and down (with the water on). If the float is in the down/lowest position, it should call for water. It should shut off at its upper position. (You can adjust the height of the fill valve float on most assemblies) Flush the toilet and test the float and also listen for any hissing sounds that aren’t caused by running water. If you hear anything unusual, it’s time to replace the fill valve.

Check for Leaks

If the flapper and fill valve are working properly, it’s time to check for leaks. Add a few drops of food coloring to the back of the tank and wait for 30 minutes. If the water in the bowl changes color (without flushing), that means there’s a leak somewhere in the tank assembly or bowl. That may require removing the tank off the toilet base and doing some further inspection for worn seals/gaskets.

Make the Repairs (DIY, Baby!)

Now that you’ve identified the problem, it’s time to make the necessary repairs. Whether it’s replacing the flapper or the fill valve, or fixing a leak, you got this. You’re a DIY master! And if all else fails, it’s time to call in the big guns – a professional plumber. But seriously, you got this. Here’s how you can do it.

How to Replace a Toilet Fill Valve

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

At the wall there should be a water shutoff valve of some kind. It may be a modern quarter turn, or an older shutoff of some kind. Make sure you turn off the water supply before moving to the next step.

Step 2: Flush the Toilet and Disconnect the Supply Hose

The water supply hooks to the toilet with a flexible water line. Use your hand or a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the water line from where it is attached to the toilet. (This is the bottom of the fill valve) Keep a bucket or towel nearby to catch any water that didn’t drain from the toilet tank or water line when it was disconnected.

Step 3: Remove the Retaining Nut

Most of the time there is a retaining nut and flexible washer holding the fill valve in place (right by where the water line attached). Use the pliers if you have to to loosen the nut and remove the nut from the bottom (the rubber washer is usually inside the tank and will lift out with the assembly). Some water from the tank may come out of the hole in the bottom. This is normal as the tank rarely empties fully on a flush. The fill valve assembly should now be loose.

Step 4: Lift the Fill Valve Assembly from the Tank

Disconnect any additional flexible hoses from inside the tank and lift out the fill valve assembly. It should come out easily. If not, double check you’ve removed any locking nuts.

Step 5: Replace with New Fill Valve Assembly

The new fill valve assembly should go right back into the same spot and install in the reverse order of the removal. Follow the instructions on your new valve to adjust the float height, and determine how much water to use per flush. Most adjust easily with a retaining clip or by twisting the riser up or down.

Step 6: Re-Connect the Water Line

Reinstall the locking nut on the underside of the toilet tank, making sure the rubber gasket is installed on the bottom of the new assembly. Make sure the fill valve assembly is not turned against the inside of the tank and it can move properly up and down. Then secure the lock nut and washer in place. Reconnect the water supply line and turn on the water to test and make sure everything works properly.

Step 7: Enjoy Your Throne!

This part is pretty self explanatory.

There you have it, a DIY guide on how to diagnose and fix a running toilet. Don’t let a little running water ruin your day. You can fix this yourself. Good luck!

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