This post contains paid product mention from GE. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Why Proper Installation and Sealing Matter

The primary cause of window and door failure is improper installation, which often involves inadequate air and water sealing. Air and water sealing are essential for ensuring that windows and doors function correctly and maintain energy efficiency. Poor sealing can lead to issues like drafts, water damage, and reduced energy performance, which can ultimately cost you more in repairs and utility bills.

Replacement vs. New Construction Windows

When updating your home’s windows, you’ll typically choose between replacement windows and new construction windows. Replacement windows are designed to fit into existing frames without removing the interior and exterior trim. While this makes installation easier, it can result in less effective sealing.

On the other hand, new construction windows come with a nailing flange that adds an extra layer of protection against air and water infiltration. Despite the additional work required, new construction windows generally offer better sealing and weatherproofing.

Step-by-Step Guide to Proper Window Installation and Sealing

Step 1: Prepping the Rough Opening

1. Measure the Rough Opening: Ensure the rough opening is slightly larger than the window, usually about 1/2 to 1 inch wider. This allows space for proper sealing. The exact dimensions for your windows should be noted in the installation instructions.
2. Angle the Sill: The bottom of the rough opening (the sill) should be angled slightly towards the exterior. This ensures that any water that gets behind the window will drain out.
3. Apply Flashing Tape: Use rubberized, waterproof flashing tape to seal the sill. Apply it across the bottom and up the sides of the rough opening. For corners, you can use pre-made plastic corner flashings or create your own with stretchable tape. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for rolling the tape if required.

Step 2: Dry Fitting the Window

Place the window into the rough opening to check the fit. Add shims at the bottom sill to create a small, even gap around the window for air sealing. Ensure the window is plumb and level before proceeding.

Step 3: Final Window Installation

1. Seal Around the Window: Use a premium 100% silicone sealant, like GE Sealants Window and Door Supreme, to create a continuous bead around the top and sides of the window. Avoid sealing the bottom entirely to allow for any potential water drainage.
2. Apply Flashing Tape: Flash around the window, starting with the sides and then the top. Ensure that the sides overlap with the top flashing. Consider adding a Z flashing above the window to help direct water away.
3. Trim and Finish: After installing the window, seal around the trim with a GE product that matches your window and trim color. Use 100% silicone for the best seal, but if you need a paintable option, GE’s Siliconized Acrylic or Paintable Silicone Supreme are excellent choices.

Interior Sealing

For the interior, focus on air sealing to eliminate drafts. Use GE’s insulating foam specifically designed for windows and doors. Spray the foam into gaps around the window frame, let it cure, and trim off any excess. Finish the installation by sealing edges with GE’s painters quick-dry sealant.

Conclusion

Proper window and door installation is essential for maintaining energy efficiency and preventing damage. By following these steps and using high-quality GE Sealants, you can ensure that your windows and doors are sealed for good, providing you with lasting performance and peace of mind.

For more information on GE Sealants and to explore their range of products, check out my amazon storefront. Thank you for reading, and happy sealing!

DIY Fall Homeowner Checklist: 10 Things You Need to Be Doing Now!

1.) Change Your HVAC Filters

If I sound like a broken record about this it’s because it’s one of the simplest and beneficial things you can do for your heating & air conditioning system. So many potentially problematic issues can be avoiding if you just change your filters out regularly. (Every 3 months if you can) For more info on the benefits of changing your filters regularly, check out this previous article I wrote.

2.) Flush Your Hot Water Tank

I’m always surprised by how many homeowners I talk to that have never drained and flushed their hot water tank. Understandable I suppose, it’s not something you learn about in school. Flushing your water tank is really simple and it helps prolong the life of the tank. Over time, lime, calcium, and other minerals in your water can create deposits in the tank. (Especially if you have hard water) Periodically draining your water tank doesn’t allow those sediments to build up and cause problems with the heating elements that can shorten the life of the tank. The middle of the winter is the worst time to not have hot water in your home!

While you’re at it, it’s not a bad idea to turn the water temperature down on your tank a few degrees. Warm water in the winter months feels warmer as the air is cooler. Save yourself some energy costs by decreasing the temperature a little bit. You won’t notice and it’ll help your wallet.

3.) Clean Your Gutters

This is a big one! Cleaning gutters makes sure that your gutters are working properly and can drain the water away from your house as snow, rain, and ice freeze and thaw. If you don’t have clean gutters, water can turn to ice and build up in the gutters which can build into ice dams that can get under your roof and cause major water damage inside. Not only that but gutters that are frozen solid can get really heavy and separate from the house which can fall and cause major problems. A quick cleaning can save you a lot of potential headache.

4.) Seal Drafts

A drafty house in the winter is no fun. Finding leaky areas now and sealing them up not only keeps your house more comfortable in the winter months, but can also save you big money on your energy bill. Common culprits of drafts in your home are around electrical outlets, worn out weather stripping on doors, and older single pane windows. For more tips on how to seal up drafts, areas to target, and ways to save on energy costs this winter check out this article.

5.) Winterize Your Pipes

If you’re in an area that freezes, it’s time to winterize your pipes. Any outdoor plumbing like sprinkler systems need to be drained of any water that could potentially freeze and cause a rupture. Any hose bibs or piping that sticks up from the ground should be wrapped with insulating pipe tape or insulating foam and UV Proof tape.

Inside the house it’s also not a bad idea to wrap any water lines or piping that runs through the foundation, sills, or is in close proximity to exterior walls. If you commonly battle freezing pipes in the winter you’re likely familiar with trouble spots. Wrapping pipes helps insulate to prevent freezing.

Ruptured pipes can cause big problems both inside and out. Do yourself a favor and spend a few minutes now and potentially save yourself a huge headache.

If you want to save yourself a hassle of draining exterior hose bibs down the line, consider updating to a House Hydrant from Aquor Water Systems. 

6.) Clean & Fertilize Your Lawn

Homeowners commonly overlook their lawn when preparing their homes for winter, but a simple winterizing fertilizer can help your lawn rebound quickly come the spring. Do your best to rake any leaves and debris around the lawn and apply a winterizing fertilizer all around the lawn. There are a ton of great products out there, but a slow release, nitrogen rich fertilizer will continue to feed your lawn all winter long. Make sure your lawn and home are prepped for winter and ready for spring.

7.) Fix Chips and Cracks in Concrete

If you have a crack in your driveway, sidewalk, foundation, or walkway going into the winter months you can bet that it’ll be worse come the spring! Frost heave is a nightmare for concrete cracks. Water penetrates the crack, freezes and expands, and then lifts and separates the crack even more. If there’s a spot where this can happen around your home it 100% will happen. You’ll be left with a bigger mess to deal with in the spring. Look around your home and make the small fix now before it turns into a bigger fix later.

8.) Tune up Your Small Engines

Now is the time to do all the small engine repairs and maintenance on your snowblower, lawnmower, and make sure your snow shovels are in good shape. Doing basic maintenance on your small engine items like oil & filter changes, carburetor cleaning, and air filter changes can make sure those machines are ready to go when you need them. Tuning up your snowblower may seem an obvious one but doing end of season maintenance on your lawnmower also makes sure it’s good to be stored for the winter and will be ready to go when the spring rolls around.

9.) Have Your Chimneys Cleaned and Inspected

There’s nothing better than sitting around a fire on a blustery winter night but they’re also a leading cause of house fires every year. In fact there are over 25,000 chimney fires every year in the United States. These fires cause hundreds of millions of dollars in damages each year. Making sure your chimney is clean is a critical part of making sure your home is prepped for winter.

As fires burn, a dark tar like substance called creosote is formed from the combustion process. It builds up and condenses on the walls of the chimney over time. If not cleaned regularly, this buildup can reach a highly flammable threshold. Once a fire is lit and reaches the creosote lined chimney, it will quickly ignite and be extremely difficult to extinguish and contain. These fires can easily spread to other areas of the home and are extremely dangerous.

Click here to learn how you can clean the chimney yourself. Or you can hire a professional to typically clean your chimney for around $200-$500. Find a certified chimney sweep in your area.

10.) Check Your Smoke Alarms and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Whether you have hard wired or battery smoke alarms and CO Detectors make sure they are working properly by testing them. Make sure the batteries are changed and working. For hardwired units, use the test button to make sure they’re working properly.

Carbon monoxide is caused by the incomplete burning of fuels including natural gas, oil, coal, propane, and wood. Carbon monoxide is a tasteless, odorless, and potentially fatal gas. It can quickly become a problem in a closed up winter home without adequate air flow. Many of the mechanicals in our homes are powered by one of the fuels that cause carbon monoxide poisoning. Make sure you have the added protection of a quality detector for the safety of you and your loved ones.

For more information about the dangers of carbon monoxide, check out this article by the CDC.

I hope you enjoy this content and I hope it helps you get your home prepped for winter!

To view all my recommended tools, and winterizing products, make sure you visit my Amazon storefront.

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5 DIY Ways to Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

Warm Your Home & LOWER Your Heat Bill

Step 1: Identify the Problem

The first step is to figure out what’s causing the problem. Is it a leaky flapper? A busted fill valve? Is the flapper chain just stuck? Or did your toddler throw their toy down the toilet again? Take a deep breath and lift the lid off the tank. SOME toilets have different mechanisms but for the sake of this project we’ll assume you have a traditional fill valve/ flapper combination.

Check the Flapper

The flapper is the little rubber thingy that controls the water flow from the tank to the bowl. It’s usually connected to the flush lever with a chain. Sometimes the fix is as simple as freeing the chain from whatever it is stuck on. If the rubber flapper is damaged or worn, it can cause the toilet to run. Don’t worry, this is an easy fix. First you’ll need to shut off the water at the valve on the wall behind the toilet. Next, just remove the old flapper and replace it with a new one. There are a few different mounting types so make sure you check how it mounts on the hinge side. Often times ones that say “Universal” don’t match the universe you’re living in! Once you replace it, turn the water back on and give it few test flushes to make sure it’s still not leaking.

Inspect the Fill Valve

“Okay, what’s a fill valve?” The fill valve is responsible for refilling the toilet tank with water after you flush. If it’s not working properly, it can cause the toilet to run continuously. Usually a fill valve has a float on it which triggers the water to turn on and off. If the float is stuck down or damaged, the water won’t know when to shut off. To check it, lift the float mechanism up and down (with the water on). If the float is in the down/lowest position, it should call for water. It should shut off at its upper position. (You can adjust the height of the fill valve float on most assemblies) Flush the toilet and test the float and also listen for any hissing sounds that aren’t caused by running water. If you hear anything unusual, it’s time to replace the fill valve.

Check for Leaks

If the flapper and fill valve are working properly, it’s time to check for leaks. Add a few drops of food coloring to the back of the tank and wait for 30 minutes. If the water in the bowl changes color (without flushing), that means there’s a leak somewhere in the tank assembly or bowl. That may require removing the tank off the toilet base and doing some further inspection for worn seals/gaskets.

Make the Repairs (DIY, Baby!)

Now that you’ve identified the problem, it’s time to make the necessary repairs. Whether it’s replacing the flapper or the fill valve, or fixing a leak, you got this. You’re a DIY master! And if all else fails, it’s time to call in the big guns – a professional plumber. But seriously, you got this. Here’s how you can do it.

How to Replace a Toilet Fill Valve

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

At the wall there should be a water shutoff valve of some kind. It may be a modern quarter turn, or an older shutoff of some kind. Make sure you turn off the water supply before moving to the next step.

Step 2: Flush the Toilet and Disconnect the Supply Hose

The water supply hooks to the toilet with a flexible water line. Use your hand or a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the water line from where it is attached to the toilet. (This is the bottom of the fill valve) Keep a bucket or towel nearby to catch any water that didn’t drain from the toilet tank or water line when it was disconnected.

Step 3: Remove the Retaining Nut

Most of the time there is a retaining nut and flexible washer holding the fill valve in place (right by where the water line attached). Use the pliers if you have to to loosen the nut and remove the nut from the bottom (the rubber washer is usually inside the tank and will lift out with the assembly). Some water from the tank may come out of the hole in the bottom. This is normal as the tank rarely empties fully on a flush. The fill valve assembly should now be loose.

Step 4: Lift the Fill Valve Assembly from the Tank

Disconnect any additional flexible hoses from inside the tank and lift out the fill valve assembly. It should come out easily. If not, double check you’ve removed any locking nuts.

Step 5: Replace with New Fill Valve Assembly

The new fill valve assembly should go right back into the same spot and install in the reverse order of the removal. Follow the instructions on your new valve to adjust the float height, and determine how much water to use per flush. Most adjust easily with a retaining clip or by twisting the riser up or down.

Step 6: Re-Connect the Water Line

Reinstall the locking nut on the underside of the toilet tank, making sure the rubber gasket is installed on the bottom of the new assembly. Make sure the fill valve assembly is not turned against the inside of the tank and it can move properly up and down. Then secure the lock nut and washer in place. Reconnect the water supply line and turn on the water to test and make sure everything works properly.

Step 7: Enjoy Your Throne!

This part is pretty self explanatory.

There you have it, a DIY guide on how to diagnose and fix a running toilet. Don’t let a little running water ruin your day. You can fix this yourself. Good luck!

Like this content? Check out more DIY Plumbing tips below!

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When I first got out of college I moved out to LA to pursue an entertainment career. Like most people interested in that path, I wanted to do it all. So I pursued a lot of it. I took acting classes, I did extra work for movies and TV, I took sketch comedy writing classes, I did improv, I worked on as many short film sets that would hire me in every department from production to lighting. I didn’t specialize and focus in one area. And guess what…looking back on it…I sucked. Seriously, I’m sure I wasn’t great at any of them. That’s not being overly critical of myself, it’s just the reality of the situation.

But here’s the thing. I wasn’t supposed to be good at those things. How could I be? I didn’t grow up in an area or a school that had anything remotely similar to what you’d find on the lowest budget student film in LA. What I realize now is that everyone around me at the time kinda also sucked. It didn’t matter that we all sucked. We all were at the same level at the same time. Taking improv is probably the best example I can think of. Even when you completely bombed a scene it didn’t really matter. The other people would lift you up anyway. We were all kinda floundering at the same time. There was a bond in not being good, a support in the struggle.

That led me down a further path of discovery in finding other areas of that being true. Guess what, I found it a lot. My entire sporting career was like that. I was “small town good” at soccer and that drove me to play in college. Again, in college we collectively weren’t very good. But again there was such joy and lasting relationships that came out of us not being good. We lifted each other up with each struggle and that drove each of us to want to be there for each other and show up to get better. I built some of the best relationships of my life because I pursued that passion.

That leads me to how that ties into the overall “theme” of this website. When I thought about it I thought about how my love for woodworking and building things is very much the same. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t think I’m bad at it per se but I would no way consider myself a pro. Finding others that lifted me up and continued to support my mediocre projects over the years has propelled me to keep getting better. SoCal Woodshop was and is instrumental for me in that sense (even several states away). I had a lot of the passion before I had a lot of the skills. I’m not saying the other guys were no good. Honestly, the group had a pretty wide range of skills with some guys being much better than others in one particular facet. But none of us would consider ourselves or each other “Pro”. (Although Taylor Hubbell is making a good push at it)

I guess what I’m saying is that find your group of “suckers”. I think that’s what drove so much of the woodworking instagram growth 3 or 4 years ago. It became so easy to find other woodworkers of your skill level and even those to aspire to and learn from. Building a community like that is such a valuable tool for growth in all aspects of your life. Sure, being good at something is the ultimate goal but sometimes it’s just as much fun or more to just enjoy the growth of being mediocre for a while.

Long story short, in order to get good, you just gotta get going. You know the whole saying “it takes 10,000 hours to master a skill. Find ways to enjoy the journey as much as the destination. And having a bunch of people to take on the journey with you is a lot more fun.

Who hasn’t thought about picking up that dated piece of wood furniture and bringing it new life? Is it worth it? In this article I’ll show you how to refinish wood furniture and breathe new life into it. I’ll show you my process for how I go about refinishing wood furniture.

This project contains a paid product integration from Minwax. All opinions are herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Step #1: SAND!

I know what you’re thinking, “I hate sanding!”. I know. Trust me, so do I. However, if you want to have a quality finish when it’s all said and done, you have to do a good job with your prep. Depending on the piece of furniture you’re working with and the finish you are planning to add on top of the current, this could either be fast or incredibly painstaking. If you’re going to be painting over the current finish, a light sand is probably enough. However, if you’re going to be re-staining, it’s best to get down to the raw wood and that takes time and effort.

I always start with 80-grit and remove as much of the old clear coat and stain as possible. Once I’ve got most of the material removed, then I’ll move on to 120-grit before doing another pass at 220-grit. 220-grit is sufficient for most finishes but I’ll occasionally go up to 400-grit on tabletops and desks.

Paint vs Stain

Paint:

• Painting requires less sanding. Often times just scuffing up the existing finish is adequate to prep the surface.
• Always use a quality primer over the existing finish before adding your new paint finish.

Stain:

• Requires more prep work and sanding. Often sanding all surfaces down to 220 grit and removing any existing stain.
• Occasionally you can stain a darker color over a lighter color without as much sanding.

STEP #2: Pre-Condition

With the majority of the sanding out of the way you’re ready for a new finish….almost! Don’t overlook a quality pre-conditioner if you’re going to be using a stain. ESPECIALLY if you’re refinishing a piece of furniture made out of a soft wood (pine, alder, etc). If you’re going to be staining a soft wood (and even some hardwoods), get in the habit of using a pre-conditioner. For this project, I used Minwax Water Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Pre-conditioning helps even out stains so you don’t end up with blotchy spots. Pre-conditioner can also help with spots you may not have been able to fully remove the old finish. It just helps even out the finish and is a great habit to get into using.

Step #3: Choosing a Stain

Choosing the right stain is essential for the success of your finished product. There are a bunch of variables to consider including the final color of the piece. One of the biggest things to consider is:

Oil-Based vs Water-Based:

Oil-Based:

• Pro: Oil based finishes are typically more durable
• Pro: Oil based finishes usually don’t raise grain require additional sanding
• Con: Oil based have longer drying time and heavy odors
• Con: Oil based are less eco-friendly and require solvents/thinners to clean up

Water Based: 

• Pro: Water-based are easy to work with and clean up
• Pro: Water-based stains are UV resistant
• Pro: Water-based stains are more forgiving and easily fixed if a mistake is made
• Pro: Fast dry time and low odor
• Con: Water-based often raises grain in wood projects requiring sanding between coats
• Con: Water-based are not as durable as oil-based

Choosing the proper finish is largely a matter of preference and what is available. Typically water-based is more forgiving for the average DIY because it requires less patience between coats, and is typically easier to work with.

In this case I’m using the new color stains from Minwax, specifically Minwax Semi-Transparent Color Stain in the color Royal Pine. These stains come in both a solid color and semi-transparent color. The solid color is more like a paint in that it doesn’t show as much wood grain. The semi-transparent allows more wood grain to show through the finish color. What’s really unique about these stains is that you can tint them to over 240+ colors!

Step #4: Applying the Stain

Each stain and finish varies a little bit in its suggested application. Make sure you take the time to read the label on your stain or finish to make sure you are applying it correctly. Some stains suggest a foam brush or rag while others recommend a specific type of brush for best application. Check out this other article to dive into the differences between spraying, brushing, and wiping on. Other things to consider are making sure you are in a well ventilated space and making sure you are staining/finishing in the proper temperature window for your finish. Again, this should all be outlined on the packaging of your stain/finish

Step #5: Sealing or Top Coating

Typically when you’re finished staining a piece of furniture, you’ll want to apply a top coat/clear coat for protection and/or shine. Typical finishes for clear coats are Satin, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss. These are just a matter of personal preference for your project. There are a large variety of finishes for your top coat typically in the form of a “urethane”.

Make sure you choose one based on the location of the finished product (indoor/outdoor), and in the sheen you want for your project. Also, you CAN apply an oil-based polyurethane or similar over top of a water based stain. However, this requires that your water-based stain is COMPLETELY dry and cured. I DO NOT recommend applying a water based finish over an oil-based stain. I used Minwax One Coat Polyurethane.

Waxing 

Occasionally I may use a paste wax as the final finish instead of or in addition to a polyurethane finish. The wax also offers protection to the furniture/finish but it doesn’t harden to the consistency of a urethane top coat. You can apply a paste wax over a urethane finish pending you add it in thin layers and buff between each. Keep in mind that the wax may alter the sheen of your urethane finish.

Step #6: Be Patient

Refinishing a piece of furniture is a lot of work and not for the faint of heart. But if it was easy you wouldn’t be able to find these old wooden pieces for free or cheap. It takes time to get the finish you want. After all, they don’t make them like they used to!

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An Idiot’s Guide to Wood Finishing

Restoring a Backyard Playset

Be honest, when was the last time you drained and flushed your hot water tank/heater? Last year? 5 years ago? Never?!?! Did you even know that was something you should be doing semi-regularly? Well I can assure you that not only is it something you SHOULD be doing, it’s something you should be doing every year!

Why Should I Drain my Water Heater?

Most homeowners I talk to have never drained and flushed their water heater. Understandable I suppose, it’s not something you learn about in school so if you never knew you were supposed to, why would you? Flushing your water tank is really simple and it helps prolong the life of the tank. Over time, lime, calcium, and other minerals in your water can create deposits in the tank. (Especially if you have hard water) Periodically draining and flushing your water tank helps loosen sediments that build up and cause problems with the heating elements. Over time, deposits and corrosion can shorten the life of the tank. There’s never a good time to not have hot water in your home! Now’s the time to add it to your to-do list! Here’s how to do it!

Step #1: Turn off the Power & Supply Valve

Either shut off the gas at the shutoff valve (Typically a valve connected to a yellow flex gas line running to the tank), or unplug the tank if it’s an electric tank. (You can also turn off the breaker to the water heater if you’re uncomfortable unplugging or unsure.)

Also close the cold water supply line valve. There’s typically a valve at the top of the tank. (If you’re not sure, you can CAREFULLY touch your hand on the pipes at the top to see which one is warm and which is cold. Don’t burn yourself! You want to shut off the cold supply line.) If you don’t have a valve there, shut the water off at the closest available shutoff OR you can shut off the main valve to the house if you need to.

Step #2: Connect a Hose to the Drain Valve

If you don’t have an already established drain line, connect a garden hose to the drain outlet on the bottom of the tank. REMEMBER THAT THE WATER IN THE TANK IS HOT! Either let the tank sit idle for a few hours, or carefully direct the hose outside or into your sump pump if you have one. Make sure the hose is directed to a safe place where no children or pets can be scalded by hot water.

Step #3:  Open the Drain Valve

Open the drain valve and allow all the water in the tank to run out. Depending on the size of the tank, this can take 15-20 minutes to drain. You’ll typically need a flat head screwdriver to open the valve.

Step #4: Turn the Water Back On

Once the water stops running from the hose, turn the water back on. You’ll want to allow the tank to flush directly out the hose for a few minutes. After that, I recommend you close the drain valve and allow the tank to fill at least halfway or so. Allow the tank to fill for 10-12 minutes.

Step #5: Shut Off the Water Again and Repeat Flush

Basically you’re going to do the same thing again. Shut off the water supply and open the drain valve. You’ve just flushed the tank to get the water to stir up any loose sediment and get it to be able to drain from the tank. Allow all the water to run from the tank again.

Before you turn the water back I recommend you also check the Anode Rod.

What is The Anode Rod?

Most homeowners I talk to don’t know what an anode rod is let alone know that it’s something that needs to be maintained with your hot water heater. The Anode Rod is a piece of sacrificial metal (usually magnesium or aluminum) that is located within your water heater. It attracts the corrosive elements of your water like calcium away from the internal components of the tank and your tank walls.

Changing your anode rod should be done every few years to make sure the life of your water heater isn’t shortened prematurely because of corrosion.

Step #6: Check or Replace the Anode Rod

The anode rod is mounted to the top of the tank and is threaded in place within the tank. Use a socket wrench or pliers to unthread the rod and check it for wear. If it is badly corroded or completely disintegrated, you need to replace it. Do a quick google search to find a replacement rod for your particular brand of water heater.

Once you reinstall the new anode rod…

Step #7: Reconnect the Heater

Make sure all valves and fittings are tightened and then turn the water supply valve back on for the tank allowing it to fill once again. Re-open the gas valve and follow all safety instructions to re-ignite the heater if you have a gas tank. CAUTION: Failure to follow ignition instructions can cause injury or death. Carefully follow all instructions. 

If you have an electric heater, plug it back in or turn the breaker back on to the unit.

How Do I Know if it’s Time to Replace My Water Heater?

There are several warning signs that your water heater might be on the outs! Here are a few things to look out for. Some issues can be repaired with new parts, while other issues may indicate the need for a new heater. Here’s what to look out for.

1.) Over 10 Years Old

If your water tank is over 10 years old, it might be time for a replacement. If you’re not having problems yet there’s no need to swap it right away, BUT you should probably budget for a new one because you’ll inevitably need one in the next couple years. Electric tanks typically have a little longer life span but both can be shortened by hard water.

2.) Leaking

If your tank is leaking, that’s a big sign that it needs replacing. It often happens on older tanks where corrosion and rust are problems. Sometimes it can be the result of keeping the temperature on the tank set too high or a faulty pressure relief valve. Over time that increased pressure can cause wear on the components.

A leaking tank can be extremely dangerous if not addressed as a leak indicates an issue with the integrity of the tank that can lead to a tank explosion! BAD NEWS BEARS!

3.) Discolored or Cold Water

If you’re getting rusty colored water or cold water after a short period of time, that could be an indication that your water heater needs attention. Especially with the latter. Old houses can have old galvanized pipes which corrode a lot so it may not be indicative of a faulty tank BUT if you’re noticing that AND a change in water temperature, you’re likely having an issue with the tank.

It could be that a heating element needs replacing because it has corroded. OR you may need to replace the tank itself. In either case, a closer inspection is warranted to find the problem.

Installing a New Water Heater

WARNING: Installing a new water heater carries the risk of electrical shock and/or exposure to gas fumes/vapors and can carry the risk of explosion if not done correctly. 

Installing a new water heater isn’t a job for the faint of heart and can be a little dangerous IF you don’t know what you’re doing. It is a task that a handy homeowner can accomplish on their own BUT as always it’s something that needs to be done carefully and correctly. If there are any doubts about your ability to do it, I’d recommend that you leave it to a professional.

Need to Replace an Electric Water Heater?

Check out the New High-Efficiency Rheem ProTerra Hydrbid Electric Water Heater with Leak Guard. 

The Rheem ProTerra Hybrid Electric Water Heater is 4x more efficient than a standard electric water heater, and has an automatic water shut-off in the event of a leak to provide additional peace of mind. You can also control the settings of your water heater directly from your mobile device for added flexibility and is installed just like a standard electric water heater.

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It’s Time to Change Your Home’s Air Filters!

How to Install a Home Water Filtration System

I made a list of my favorite tools I bought or used in 2020 so I thought, “why not update it with some tools I’ve bought since then?” I’m constantly buying and testing out tools (and I occasionally get some pro bono). I’m always discovering new *to me* tools that I think are awesome and that I want to share with you guys in case you’re looking for new tools to add to your arsenal. Continue reading below to see my 10 Tool Recommendations for 2022!

This list is always changing, but these tools have my vote for favorites I’ve used in the last year or so! I know some of these items might be a little spendy for the average person, which I totally understand. Some of these items took me years to pull the trigger on. I tend to come from the school of thought that if you’re saving money on the labor by DIYing a project, you can use that savings to invest in some tools that will help make your life easier.

Here’s the full list of tools via my Amazon Affiliate storefront if you’d like to purchase any of them. You don’t pay any extra and it helps support the Mrfixitdiy brand. You can learn more about the types of compensation I accept on my disclosures page.

Without further ado here’s the list in no particular order.

1.) DeWalt FlexVolt 60v Max 6-1/2″ Track Saw

DeWalt FlexVolt 60v Max 6-1/2″ Track Saw – $399

I’ll be honest. I never really used a track saw much before this year. I’ve always been pretty confident in my ability with a circular saw and when I needed it, I always just clamped down a level or straight edge to get a clean cut. That all changed this year when I bought the DeWalt Track saw. It has completely overhauled the way I cut sheet goods or just need to make a clean, straight cut. Having the flexibility of the 60v cordless power is amazing! It helped me so much when I tackled the massive kitchen remodel I tackled this year. HIGHLY recommend!

2.) Graco Magnum X7 Paint Sprayer

Graco Magnum X7 Paint Sprayer – $390

In the past I’ve always rented a Sprayer from Home Depot when I needed one for a larger job. That changed this year as I tackled a bunch of large home improvement projects and it didn’t make sense to rent a sprayer a bunch of times. I own the Graco TC Pro Handheld Cordless Sprayer also BUT when it came to painting the ceiling in my living room, and the cabinets and kitchen for my remodel, I needed something that could hold a lot more paint. The performance of the X7 was awesome, whether it was painting the exterior of the house, or the fine finish of the cabinets. I used the Graco FFLP208 for the fine finish tip for painting my cabinets. Swapping the tips gave me tremendous versatility and was worth it’s weight in gold!

3.) Festool 574930 CT 26 E HEPA Dust Extractor

Festool 574930 CT 26 Dust Extractor – $740

Look, I know spending $700+ on a shop vac seems insane! I told myself that FOR YEARS. I could never justify the expense of it and couldn’t see how it warranted that price. Well this past year I finally bit the bullet and bought my first Festool product and this was it. I bought it because I needed something for refinishing my kitchen cabinets in place. Since I reused many of the cabinet boxes and sanded them in place in the kitchen, I needed something that could keep the dust as manageable as possible. To be honest, I’ve never used a vacuum that even compares to keeping the dust down like this one does. Sanding the cabinets was virtually dustless. I paired this with my second Festool purchase, the Festool DTS 400 REQ-Plus Sander, and was not at all disappointed in my purchase. I was quoted over $5000 to refinish and paint the cabinets which wasn’t in my budget so this was the next best thing. 

4.) True Position Cabinet Hardware Jig

True Position Cabinet Hardware Jig – $199

This was another upgrade for me this year. I previously had another cabinet hardware jig but it just wasn’t up to par. With this jig you can easily set repeatable positioning for perfect placement on doors and drawer pulls which was huge for me to get a consistent look across all my kitchen cabinets. I love this tool and will be using it in all my cabinet projects moving forward!

5.) Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18 Ga. Brad Nailer

Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18 Ga. Brad Nailer – $279

This was one of those tools I got from my friends over at Northern Tool & Equipment earlier this year. I’ve wanted a cordless brad nailer for a long time so I jumped at the chance to get my hands on this thing. Needless to say I was NOT disappointed. In fact, I love it so much I bought one for my brother for his birthday. This thing has been an absolute game changer for most of my woodworking projects as well as for trim and finish carpentry projects around the house. This is absolutely the first tool I reach for with glue-ups when I need something to hold while the glue sets up. It’s reliable, powerful, and versatile. Works perfect with the rest of my Fuel Lineup on the 18v battery lineup. If you’re in the market for a cordless brad nailer, this is easily my choice.

6.) Bora Tool Wood Storage Rack

Bora Tool Wood Storage Rack – $49.99

You can never have too much lumber storage! I spent WAY too much time tripping over lumber in my shop earlier this year (and every year quite frankly). I invested in a few more of these racks this year to help get materials up off the floor so that I could navigate around the shop safely. If you have any available wall space to put one (or a bunch) of these up, you’ll thank yourself for pulling the trigger on these. Super easy assembly and for under $50 on Amazon right now, it’s a no brainer!

7.) Kreg Tool Concealed Hinge Jig

Kreg Tool Concealed Hinge Jig – $54.99

Between rebuilding all my kitchen cabinets to my office and some shop cabinets, I did a buttload of cabinetry this year! This jig is a must if you’re using concealed hinges. I had another concealed hinge jig from a Rockler for a few years but I wasn’t crazy about it. This one is much simpler, intuitive, and versatile. Not to mention it’s $29 on Amazon which is a steal IMO. Adjusting it is super easy with a phillips head screwdriver and it fits the majority of concealed hinges you’ll find on the market. Cheap, easy, and effective! My 3 favorite things!

8.) Milwaukee Voltage Detector

Milwaukee Voltage Detector – $30

I’ve had this tool for a few years now but I got a TON of use out of it this year already. In fact, I used it so much that I broke my first one and had to buy a replacement. If you’re doing any electrical work around the house this is a must have. With my various remodeling projects this past year, I did a lot of electrical work. Moving to a new house, I also have done a ton of troubleshooting on the new place to figure out the electrical layout. This is my go-to tool for checking for live (hot) wires, line & load wires, and identifying circuits. It’s a super simple tool but it has paid for itself 100x over. It’s about the size of a sharpie so it’s super convenient to add to an electrical pouch or carry in your pocket. It has a loud beep and red light that flashes when voltage is present so it’s pretty fool proof (just make sure it’s on). It also has a little flashlight on the end that can be helpful in dark situations and to know that the pen is on. Highly worthwhile purchase for both convenience and personal safety.

9.) POPULO Electric Drain Auger

Populo Electric Drain Auger – $99

This was one of the more recent tools I bought at the end of last year. When we moved into the new house, a bunch of the bathroom drains were really slow moving. The kitchen also had some issues but I’ll save that story for another time. I purchased this electric drain auger after much frustration with my traditional drain auger and dealing with stubborn clogs I couldn’t remove with the shop vac. I can’t believe how impressed I’ve been with this tool. Anytime you buy a tool from an unknown (to me) brand, you always take a risk, but I am so happy with this purchase. It was pretty affordable and well worth the purchase price. It’s handled everything I’ve thrown at it thus far with incredible ease. Highly recommend.

10.) Bora Tool Centipede

Bora Centipede – $122

This is one of the more recent tools I purchased and it has really come in handy after our move. I don’t have a dedicated shop space setup yet so the versatility of the centipede has been a space and time saver. I can use it as a portable workbench, or as a spot to hold sheet goods while I build other cabinets and benches. It collapses small and tucks away so it’s super convenient. Even after I have the new shop completed, this will get regular use in my shop because it’s so versatile and useful.

So that’s it for this list! I hope you guys enjoyed checking out some of my favorites and I hope it helps you if you’re considering some new tools throughout 2022. I’d highly recommend adding these to your wishlists for the future. As I mentioned, this is an every evolving list so I’ll do my best to share some more of my favorites as I come across them.

If you like this list, here is previous list of recommendations as well as some recent projects I’ve done utilizing some of the tools I mentioned above.

My Top 10 Tools of 2020 (So Far)!

10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro!

Sometimes you just get lucky! That’s what happened when my brother and I stumbled upon this old backyard playset for FREE! Sure it needs a little TLC, but that’s not a problem. In this article I’m going to show you the steps of restoring a backyard playset so it’s as good as new!

This project contains a paid product integration from Thompson’s WaterSeal. All opinions herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

While I was home in New York a few weeks ago, my brother got a lead on a free playset from a few friends. Their kids have long outgrown it. They were planning to toss it so we offered to come pick it up and haul it away. Apart from it being pretty weathered, all the major components were still intact. So we hitched up the trailer and hauled it back to my brother’s house.

Assembling the Playset

After about 45 minutes of assembly (and some heavy lifting), the playset was back together and we got a good sense of how much work it needed to be restored. Fortunately, apart from the wood being really weathered and the finish needing to be replaced, it was in decent shape. Nothing major was missing and they had the original roof panels too!

The wood frame of the playset hasn’t been sealed or kept up with for quite a few years so it was pretty clear it was in need of a good sealant. The wood was weathered through and the finish had been completely worn off in some spots. Fortunately there weren’t any major areas of rot or cracking that needed to be replaced.

Sealing & Restoring the Playset

We wanted to stain the playset so it looked pretty close to the original finish. We found the Autumn Brown Semi-Transparent Stain and Sealer at Lowe’s and thought it’d be a perfect fit for this project. The first thing I did was go around the playset and used a putty knife to just knock off any old flaking finish and scraped off any dirt that had accumulated on it.

From there, my brother and I tag teamed the whole playset making sure to cover every inch with the new stain and sealant. We used a combination of a brush and a roller to cover the whole thing.

Another great feature of the stain & sealant we chose is that it is a single coat application. No need to go over it a second time which saves a lot of time. The stain & sealer went on simple and smooth. It covered the discolored areas easily and completely blended it to make it look like a seamless finish. It provides ultimate protection from water and sun damage, giving it long-lasting, durable protection.

We used about half of the gallon container to finish the whole playset. Cleaning up was super easy with just some warm water because it’s a water based product.

Finished Product

We were super happy with how the playset came back to life. Restoring a backyard playset like this is a super easy project. You’d never know it wasn’t new by looking at it! For less than $50 and a couple hours of work, we were able to give the kids an awesome new place to play. The kids absolutely loved it!

I would call this project a serious score! Now if only every project was this easy!

If you liked this project, here are a few other lawn & garden projects and tutorials you might enjoy.

And Click here for more Thompson’s WaterSeal project ideas and inspiration. 

How to Install Artificial Turf

How to Restore a Wheelbarrow

As someone who makes and builds things all the time, I’ve noticed a dramatic change in the price of building materials over the last several months. And I’m not the only one! Contractors across the nation are feeling the squeeze on their bottom lines. So does that mean it’s a bad time to build your dream home, or tackle that big remodel? Maybe! In this article I’m going to explore what’s been going on, and how it could affect your decision to dive into that next building project.

Why the Price Hike?

Earlier this year a basic 2x4x8 might cost you around $3 but if you’ve checked prices lately or gone to buy one (or 20) you likely paid closer to $6 or more for the same board. So WTF?!? Why the huge price shift? Well, like everything else in 2020 COVID has completely F*&$ed up the building supply industry as well. It’s just taken longer to hit us than some other industries. So let’s take a look at why and what has happened.

The COVID Effect on Supplies

Early on this year, much of the country largely shut down. Businesses, schools, everything came to a screeching halt. Even though much of the building industry and trades were considered “essential business” in much of the US. The demand for materials slowed down extensively. While demand for DIY content (myself included) soared while people were stuck at home tackling small projects around the home, the large scale construction projects that drastically influence the supply market slowed down as companies were forced to figure out how to keep their workforce safe.

What happened as a result was that demand for building supplies slowed down, and lumber yards had huge supplies of materials that they couldn’t get rid of. Like many industries, lumberyards shuttered, layoffs happened, and sales dipped.

Economic Reopening

What we found out is that COVID is here to stay (at least for the foreseeable future) and as economies reopened to the “new normal”, the building industry came back in a huge wave! Mills and lumberyards weren’t prepared for the massive influx on demand which quickly shifted from surplus to shortage and that in turn has sent material prices through the roof! *pun intended

According to Marketwatch, lumber prices increased by 60% from the start of the Pandemic to the end of July! That has only continued in the months since.

The Effect on Homeowners

Like any industry, when demand goes up, prices go up. That means your remodel, or new building budget is going to take a pretty significant hit. Contractors and home builders are passing off that increased cost onto the homeowner. If you’ve hired out or had a building project tackled around your home, you may have already felt the effects. Framing and lumber materials account for about 20% of a building projects budget so as those materials have continued to rise in price, so too has the strain on the homeowner wallet.

It has also made the consideration of building a new home from the ground up, a much more daunting task. The average price per sq. ft (the staple of evaluating building costs) has increased significantly across the country. No matter where you live in the country, it appears no region is exempt.

How long this “new normal” for building materials is going to last is anyones guess. It appears that it’s going to stick around for the foreseeable future until suppliers can play catch up. It’s hard to guesstimate when that’ll happen.

What It Means for Your Next Project

Does this mean it’s a bad time to build? It’s not my place to tell you how to spend your money, but I would probably say yes. At the very least you should expect to pay substantially more than you would have even a year ago. If you got a quote to have a project done by a contractor even a few months ago, GET A NEW ONE BEFORE THE PROJECT STARTS! Or at least make sure the contractor is going to honor the quote and not try to stiff you with an outrageous bill at the end. If your project is going to involve a lot of lumber materials (framing, sheathing, etc.) you can expect to pay more than you’re used to.

This year has been crazy for everyone! Maybe just let it ride until the end of the year and re-evaluate where things are at in 2021! Your wallet might thank you for it!

If you enjoyed the content of this article, check out some of these other articles and projects you might enjoy!

My Top 10 Tools of 2020 (So Far)!

How to Install a Home Water Filtration System