Having clean water is essential for you and your family’s health and everyday tasks. Many people don’t know what contaminants are present in their drinking water. It could be anything from bacteria, to lead or corrosion from old pipes. Maybe something just makes your drinking water taste a little funky. Installing a water filtration system in your home can go a long way to adding peace of mind to you and your family. You should be confidant you’re drinking the highest quality water possible on a daily basis. Today, I’m going to help you do just that!

Disclosure: This project contains a paid product placement by Survivor Filter who generously supplied the filtration systems you’ll be seeing me install today. Get 15% OFF a Survivor Filter In-Home System at the link above or using the code MRFIXITDIY at checkout. Survivor Filter carries a wide range of water filters whether you’re at home or on the go so you can quickly transform water from contaminated to clean in a matter of minutes. All opinions are my own. 

What’s great about the Survivor Filter options is that they have both larger sized systems for use in higher usage areas like kitchens, and smaller systems for use in less used areas like bathroom sinks. It’s also great that their in-home products are manufactured here in the United States. Each system comes with an easy to follow instruction manual, mounting hardware, and the filters themselves. So today I’ll show you how you can easily install both systems.

Getting Started in the Kitchen

In my house, many of the old pipes are galvanized steel. There are areas of my home where the water pressure is lower than others. In some cases, the water can even be a little brown when it turns on. That’s because galvanized steel corrodes and rusts over time which starts to clog the pipes. I’ve replaced many of the water lines in areas of the home I’ve remodeled. Sadly, the trunk lines and supply lines in the kitchen haven’t been remodeled yet and are still galvanized. 

We’ll start with the larger water filtration system for the kitchen, the Max Filter System. It’s a 2 stage system that removes 95% of fluoride, and 99.9% removal of lead, chlorine, volatile organic compounds, toxic chemicals, and heavy metals. The system also leaves essential minerals in your drinking water.

The first step is to clean out the area under the sink that you’ll be working in. We tend to keep a ton of cleaning stuff under there, so get everything out of the way so you have a place to work.

Next you’ll want to find an area to mount the filter bracket. The system comes with attached water lines so find a location that is within reach of the water lines. If you don’t have a space available, you can purchase a longer set of lines to put it elsewhere. Mount the included bracket to the side of the cabinet or wall with the included screws and a drill or screwdriver.

Connecting the Water Lines

From there, turn the valve off for the cold water line at the valve on the wall or at the nearest supply valve for that sink. If you don’t have a valve anywhere, you can shut off the water main for the house if need be. Next turn on the faucet and let the excess water drain from the line. 

From there, disconnect the outlet hose line from the valve body, but leave the other end connected to the faucet. Connect the inlet line for the filter system in its place with some thread tape and an adjustable wrench. The inlet side has a threaded female nut on it and is on the left side as you’re looking at it. If you have different sized outlet lines on your water valves, you may need to purchase an adapter to fit.  

Next, install the outlet hose to the bottom of your supply line running to the faucet. Use a pair of adjustable wrenches to make sure you get a tight seal. From there, turn the water valve back on and check the system for leaks. Once you’ve verified there are no leaks, you’re good to go and you can run 5000 gallons of water before you need to replace the stage 1 filter which should easily last at least a year in the average home. 

My wife and I have used a Brita for clean drinking water but it gets pretty annoying when someone forgets to refill it or you need more than it holds for cooking. At one point, we even had a reverse osmosis system installed. However, you could constantly hear the water running from it because in order for them to work, they waste 4-7 gallons of water per 1 gallon of consumable water they produce. As someone who is environmentally conscious, that isn’t something I’m interested in. With this new water filtration system, we’ve got on demand filtered cold water without additional waste or complex installation. 

Setting up a Smaller System

Next I’m going to show you the PURE 10k In-Line filtration system. The Pure 10k also removes 99.9% of the same contaminants while leaving essential minerals in your drinking water. This system is great for bathrooms or as an in-line filter for a refrigerator water line or similar. 

Installation is similar to the larger unit. First find a spot to mount the included mounting bracket and install it with the included screws. Next turn off the cold water supply line at the valve, turn on the faucet to drain the remaining water in the line. Then disconnect the outlet line at the valve. From there, connect the inlet line on the filter to the cold water valve and connect the other end to the water line for the faucet using thread tape and adjustable wrenches. Lastly, turn the water valve back on, check for leaks, and you’re good to go. 

This system has the capacity to filter 10,000 gallons of water before replacement so it should last a good long time in a small bathroom like this. 

You’re All Set!

So that’s it for this project! I hope it showed you how you can easily get clean drinking water for you and your family. If you’re not sure what type of water your house has, check out this post. It shows how you can easily do a DIY water test to see what potential contaminants are in your water. Then you can see if installing a water filtration system is right for you.

I want to say a quick thank you to Survivor Filter for sending over the filters you saw me install. I absolutely encourage you guys to check out their full line of water filtration systems. Not only do they have these systems for your home, but they also have outdoor and on-the-go systems. They are perfect for backpacking, camping, fishing, hunting, or any outdoor activity that has you on the move. Their in-home products are manufactured here in the United States and made to be environmentally friendly. 

If you liked this project, here are some other water related projects I’ve done. Check them out!

Upgrade a Modern Water Spigot

How to Install a Sprinkler System

How to Install a Bidet

Thanks so much for stopping by and I’ll see you next time!  

The outdoor water spigot hasn’t changed much in about 100 years since the advent of indoor plumbing. They’re typically made of brass and look something like this.

There are a few problems with them. They protrude outside the house and in freezing climates, they can be difficult to drain. This can cause them to freeze or break in the winter. It’s also common for your hose to leak around them when you thread it on which can get a little annoying.

Today I’m going to show you how to install a sleek new modern take on the water spigot. It’s called the house hydrant from Aquor Water Systems. 

Disclosure: This post contains a paid product integration from Aquor Water Systems. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

Adding a New Shutoff Valve

The first step is to shut off the water to the line. There’s no shutoff valve on this one, so I have to shut the water off at the main line. I’ll be adding a new shutoff later on.

Next, open up the valve and drain off any water remaining in the line. From there, use a pipe cutter to cut the supply line in the area you’re working on. The exact location isn’t super important for this. I just want to make sure I cut it back far enough that I have the ability to work.

From there, slide on a new shutoff valve for the water line for the new hose bib. These sharkbite fittings make it super DIY friendly. They just slide right over the existing copper water lines and snap in place. You could shut the valve here and turn the water on for the rest of the house if you want, but I’m leaving it off for the time being. 

Preparing for Installation

Next, let’s take a look at the components that come with the new house hydrant. Full disclosure, Aquor did send me this house hydrant to install and review. After I came across their product online, I reached out to them to test it out. 

The box comes with mounting instructions, an accessory book, a removable faucet, cover plate, and the house hydrant itself. Aquor also supplied me with a chrome cover plate, a separate removable faucet, and a hose. 

First, I’m going to install a mounting block to the side of the house. This is recommended by the manufacturer to ensure we have a 90 degree mounting surface. Before I can install it, I’m adding a small piece of 2×6 inside the block to act as a backer. Then I mock up the mounting location sticker and pre-drill the block with the hole saw.

In this case, I want to move the location up slightly from where the old water spigot was. This gives me more room to install siding around it later on. It will still pass through the rim joists and into the basement on this house. I mock up the new location for the block and use a 1 ½” hole saw on my drill to drill out the hole. Once the hole is drilled, I’m using some roofing nails to hold the mount in place. 

Installing the House Hydrant

Next, I go back inside and mount a small piece of pex piping to the newly installed shutoff valve. Then I feed it so it reaches out the hole. Aquor actually recommends a little extra piping. It’ll allow me to easily remove the hose bib later if I ever need to do any service or maintenance on it. 

From there I’m adding a threaded pex adapter to the end of the house hydrant using some thread tape and pipe thread compound.  I’ll use a pex clamp tool and a clamp to secure the house hydrant to the new pex line. Then, slide it back into the wall and install it with the mounting screws. 

The last thing to do is turn the water back on, check for any leaks, and test it out. What’s cool about this product is that the handle goes right into the wall and threads into place. I should mention that it does take some getting used to to ensure the handle is seated properly before twisting into place. Once you’re done, remove the handle. The excess water drains from the line so you never have to worry about it freezing. The cap also covers it up, so it looks relatively seamless for next time. 

Project Complete!

So that’s it for this modernized version of a water spigot! I hope you enjoyed it and I hope you learned something new. Or, maybe it introduced you to a new product that you maybe weren’t aware of. I want to say a quick thank you to Aquor Water Systems for sending over this house hydrant for me to install. If you’re interested in checking it out and seeing all the options, here to visit their site.

And if you enjoyed this project, then you just might love these as well: 

How to Install a Sprinkler System

5 DIY Plumbing Tools Everyone Should Own

How to Fix a Leaky Faucet

Thanks for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time! 

I’m currently tackling a backyard overhaul project and as part of it, I need to install a few new irrigation zones. I installed this small succulent garden a few years ago which doesn’t require a ton of water. With the heat of the summer, however, I’m still sick of pulling the hose out every time. So today I’m going to show you how I plan to install a sprinkler system for it and some nearby plants.

Here is a list of tools and materials you may need to tackle this project. (affiliates)

1.) Water Supply

Step one is to locate a nearby water supply. In this case I have an unused spigot behind my old shed that I plan to tap into to use as the source for this line. To determine how many sprinklers I can have on this line, I’ll have to do some basic calculations. We need to determine our flow rate, and water pressure for the house. The easiest way to test the water pressure is to use a water pressure gauge like this one and attach it to a spigot. In this case, the water pressure is just shy of 60 PSI.

Next, to determine the flow rate I use a 5 gallon bucket and turn the water on fully to see how long it takes to fill the bucket. Multiply the size of the bucket which is 5 x 60 seconds. Then divide that number by the number of seconds it took to fill. In this case, it’s around 20 seconds. So the flow rate is about 15 gallons/minute.

Once you have that number, it can help you determine how many sprinkler heads you can have on a zone or how many zones you need. In this case, I’ll be installing these pop up Rain Bird 1800 series sprinklers and a couple dedicated drip lines. You can check the flow rate of your chosen sprinkler types and what their coverage is on the manufacturer’s website. I only need about 6 sprinklers total for this zone and each head has a flow rate of less than 1 gpm so I have plenty of pressure and flow rate for the needed coverage. Depending on your layout, you’ll likely need to buy a combination of different pieces, fittings, and unions. I recommend you buy more than you need and return the unused stuff.

2.) Digging the Trench

Once all the stupid math is out of the way, it’s time for some good old manual labor! You’ll have to dig a trench to bury the line. Depending on the size of the area you’re working in and the type of soil you have, that can either be easy or a huge pain in the ass. In most cases for irrigation lines, anywhere from 8 to 12” deep is sufficient to bury your pipes; however, if you live in an area that freezes, make sure you plan to drain your lines at the end of the season so they don’t freeze and rupture during the winter. 

Once you have the digging out of the way, you can start laying out your piping and sprinkler heads. There are a lot of different products out there you can use. I typically just use schedule 40 PVC pipe because I find it easy to work with. In this case I’m using ¾” diameter schedule 40. I just work my way around, laying the pipe. Whenever I reach an area where I want a sprinkler head I use one of these ¾” tee joints with a ½” threaded outlet where I will screw in a threaded riser for the sprinkler head.  At each joint, I use purple PVC primer and cement, making sure to prime each piece and then apply plenty of cement to hold each joint together so they’re water tight.

3.) Connecting the Sprinkler System

Once I’ve laid out and installed all the sprinkler heads, it’s time to connect the line to the water supply. You have a bunch of different options for different types of zone valves here but they all basically do the same thing, they allow the water to kick on either manually when you activate the valve, or on a timer if you have it connected to an irrigation system. Some, like the one I installed here run off solar power and operate on their own.

These “anti-syphon” zone valves allow the water to flow out to the sprinkler lines, but not back-flow and contaminate your drinking water. You install your sprinkler line to the outlet side of the valve and connect the inlet side to your water supply line. Add as many zones as needed based on your flow rate and water pressure. You can even add an isolation valve like this one which allows you to shut off the water to the irrigation lines without shutting off the main water supply to the house.

Once everything is connected, let the cement cure for at least 30 minutes. Then turn on the water and check the pipes for leaks. After that, turn on your zone valve and sit back and watch your plants get watered. Then you can just backfill in your trench and that’s all it takes to install a sprinkler system.

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. It can take a little bit of time to install a sprinkler system, but once you get the hang of it, it’s a relatively simple project you can knock out by yourself and hopefully save yourself some money.

If you liked this project, check out some of my other lawn projects:

Lawnmower of the Future?

3 Things to Prepare Your Lawn for Summer

Thanks for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

It’s no secret that the world has been turned on it’s head early in 2020 as a result of the Coronavirus pandemic. Everyday items have disappeared off the shelves due to hoarding and hysteria. If you’ve tried to buy toilet paper in the last 60 days you know exactly what I’m talking about. So today I’m going to show you how to make the most of a shitty situation and install a bidet.

Click here for the tools and materials used in this project (affiliates) 

1.) Before Installing…

First you’ll need to order a bidet. Luckily, many bidet brands seem to be well stocked online. I picked up this $40 Luxe Bidet off Amazon. The price of bidets can range anywhere from $40 to $1000 depending on how many bells and whistles you want. I’m going to show you how to install this simple one that doesn’t include a heater or dryer. 

First of all, before you get started with this project you need to clean your toilet well. You’re going to get up close and personal with it so might as well take the time to clean it before you get down and dirty with it. Put your hair up and roll up your sleeves. 

2.) Installing Your Bidet

You’ll want to turn the water supply valve off at the base of the toilet. Then, flush the toilet to drain any water from the tank in the back. With the water drained, next you can remove the toilet seat. Do this by popping up the caps to access the mounting screws on the back of the seat. Using a screwdriver, loosen the mounting screws and retaining nuts from the underside of the seat and remove it.

From there, add the adjustment plates to the bidet assembly and place it on the toilet. The adjustment plates can be spun to align the mounting screws for your toilet. Next reinstall the toilet seat on top of the bidet and re-secure it in place with the mounting screws and retaining nuts underneath.

3.) Plumbing the Water Lines

After you install the bidet assembly, it’s time to shift gears to the toilet supply line. Grab a small bucket or container to catch any residual water that’s still in the toilet tank and remove the supply line from the toilet by unthreading it from the fill valve. Next, make sure the rubber gasket that came with the bidet is inserted into the included T-valve. Thread the T-valve onto the toilet fill valve assembly and make sure the outlet is facing towards the front of the toilet.

Once installed, connect the small braided hose that came with your bidet to the back of the bidet control module, and connect the supply line from the shutoff valve to the bottom of the T-valve. You may need to use thread tape to ensure a tight seal. You’ll find a small plastic wrench included with the bidet. You may also need a pair of channel lock pliers to tighten if you experience any leaks. 

Once the water lines are installed, turn the supply valve back on at the wall and fill the tank with water. If there are no leaks, it’s time to test the bidet. If you try to test it without sitting on it, beware that the water is going to launch across the room like a rocket so I recommend you test it when you plan to actually use it.

The first time you use a bidet can be a little jarring so I recommend you keep it on a low setting until you get comfortable. However, once you get used to it, I think you’ll find it difficult to go back to your old bathroom habits!

4.) Finished!

So that’s how you install a bidet! I hope you liked it and I hope you learned something. Installing a bidet is a super easy project to hopefully avoid the hassle of trying to buy TP in this world of crazy we’re all finding ourselves in! I hope you are yours are staying safe and healthy during this pandemic.

Like many people, I am trying to find ways to help out during this crisis and support those on the front lines so I have been 3D printing PPE components for medical professionals and essential personnel that I am sending for free to those in need. If you are able, you can make a small donation to help at this link. 100% of the proceeds will go towards materials, shipping, and production costs to distribute them to those that need them. If you’d like to download the files and print them for yourselves or community, there is a link down below where you can download them for free here.

If you liked this project, you might enjoy these other DIY Plumbing Projects as well:

How to Install a Bathroom Faucet

How to Fix a Garbage Disposal

Thanks for stopping by, I’ll see you next time!

Disclosure: This video and article contains a paid product integration by ZEP USA. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

Cleaning the Chipped Area

This chip is a medium sized chip and is about 6” wide, and about an inch deep.
So the first thing we need to do is clean out the chip of any debris or loose chunks. Start by breaking out the loose chunks with a chisel or other tool like a screwdriver.

Once you have any loose chunks removed, use a wire brush to loosen up any debris and dirt that have built up over time. Getting the surface of the chipped out area clean is the most important part of this project. You need to make sure your new patch can firmly adhere to the old concrete.

Once you have the loose material removed from the chip, you’ll need to use a concrete cleaning product like Zep’s Driveway and Concrete Pressure Wash Concentrate.

This Concrete and Driveway cleaner is perfect for this application because it is a concentrated concrete cleaner that easily removes tire marks, dirt, grease, and oil from any concrete, brick, or asphalt surfaces. For a small chip, you can apply a small amount of the concentrated cleaner to a container of water at the mixture indicated on the bottle. Or you can do what I did and take the opportunity to add a diluted mixture to a pressure washer and just clean your whole driveway. Pay careful attention to the chipped out areas and make sure you thoroughly clean them.

Apply Concrete Patching

Once the chipped out area has had some time to dry, next you’ll need to get a small
amount of a concrete vinyl patching compound like this one. These are available off the shelf at your local big box store and are super easy to use. Simply add a small
amount of water to the powdered mixture. Then mix it up until you have a peanut
butter like consistency, and apply it to the chipped out area with a masonry or
disposable trowel.

You can feather out the surrounding area to match the existing
concrete. For corner chips or areas next to expansion joints, you may have to take a little extra time to form the patch to follow the existing contours. Once the compound has set up for about 20 minutes, use a grouting sponge and some water to clean any excess patching compound from around the patched area and create a seamless patch. For deep or large chips, you may have to apply several coats of the patching
compound to fill the void. And if the area around your chip is heaved, you may need
to do some additional steps of flattening that area using an angle grinder and a diamond grinding wheel.

So that’s it for this episode of Home School’d. I hope you guys enjoyed it and I hope
you learned something. If you’re interested in purchasing any of the products I used
in this video, links to all the tools and materials can be found in the description
below. I also have tips on how to fix a crack in concrete, so check that out here.

Thank you guys so much for checking out this post. For more outdoor projects, click on some of the links below.

DIY Paver Walkway Install

Find the Right Pressure Washer for you!

https://pressurewashr.com/

The team at Cub Cadet sent me their NEW all electric CC30e lawn mower to put to the test

Disclosure: This video and article contains a paid product integration by Cub Cadet. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

The Battery System

The yard is just over an acre in size and we were able to tackle the whole thing on a single full charge. This mower is powered by a single brush-less motor and the blade itself is directly powered by the motor so there’s no changing of belts or anything like that. The mower plugs in using the included cable via a standard 110v outlet. It takes about 4 hours to fully charge.

What’s nice is that you can still operate the mower at a partial charge without needing to fully charge the unit before operating it. The remaining charge is indicated next to the mower start button. 

Usability

One of the most noticeable differences between the CC30e and a standard gas mower is the sound. When you get on the unit and start it, it doesn’t make a sound beyond a beep. The mower operates virtually silent without the blade engaged. Even when the blade is engaged, it’s substantially less noisy. So now you can operate early in the morning or later in the evening without bothering your neighbors. 

For ease of use, this mower is about as user friendly as it gets. It’s one of the most straightforward mowers I’ve ever used. You control the throttle via a single pedal on the driver’s right foot, a brake with the left foot, and reverse with a single button. There’s a parking brake switch, and even cruise control for those longer straight runs. It even includes operator presence safety, meaning it shuts off if you get off.

No Assembly Required!

The mower comes fully assembled and ready to go out of the box once it’s been charged fully with the only assembly being whether you’d like to utilize the mulching/bagging feature or the side discharge attachment for the mower deck. 

For cutting height, you have 5 cut heights ranging from 1.5” to 4”. These are easily adjustable with the lever on the driver’s right side and a cutting area of 30”. 

Final Thoughts

Overall I really like this mower. I think it’s pretty obvious that the future of power tools and yard equipment is headed towards all electric. This mower proves that you can have the performance of a gas machine with much less maintenance. This mower doesn’t need any oil changes, filter changes, or spark plug changes. As long as you keep the blades sharp and the battery charged, you’re good to go. 

I think this mower is a great tool for the average homeowner with a small to medium sized lot that is relatively flat. I do think if you had a larger or bumpy lawn, having a suspension system would be helpful. Additionally if you have a yard that’s relatively wide open, you may want a wider deck. My brother’s lawn is pretty large, but it was a more than capable machine to handle it. 

If you have any further questions about this mower, feel free to leave them in the comments down below and I will do my best to answer them. Or you can visit their website at cubcadet.com.

I want to say a quick thank you to Cub Cadet for sending this lawnmower for me to test out. If you’re in the market for something similar I’d highly recommend you check it out before you make your purchase. You can’t beat the no maintenance aspect of an electric mower and it’s really cool to finally see a riding mower that is capable of actually replacing the need for a gas mower. 

If you liked this post, check out these outdoor projects as well!

How to Install Sod

DIY Raised Planter Box (w/ Hidden Wheels)

Thank you so much for watching and I’ll see you next time!

Summertime means cranking that air conditioning in the house to cool it down which can really impact your home’s energy consumption. Today I’m here to share a few things that you can do around your home to help make your space more comfortable and energy efficient, which reduces your impact on the environment.

So let’s get started!

#1: Replace Your Indoor and Outdoor Light Bulbs with LED’s

Replacing your light bulbs is one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to make your home more energy efficient. Typical CFL or older
incandescent bulbs use anywhere from 40w-100w a piece and the newer LED equivalents typically range from 10-20w for the same light output.
They’re a little more expensive on the front end, but their bulb life is exponentially longer and the cost savings on your energy bill adds up quickly.

Many people may think to replace their interior bulbs. Also, consider replacing exterior landscape bulbs and motion lights. It’s not uncommon for exterior bulbs to be 150w so replacing them can add up to
significant savings over time.

#2: Inspect Your Attic Insulation and Replace it if Necessary

One specific area to consider is your attic. If you’re like me, it’s not an area you particularly like to work in. Still, it’s a vital part of keeping your home as efficient as possible. It keeps heat in during the winter, but it also helps keep the heat of your roof from radiating into your living space in the summer.

Go into your attic and make sure that insulation coats the entire living space. It may be blown in, in batt form, or a combination of the two. If your insulation is sporadic, very thin, or has been infested with critters, consider having it replaced or adding additional insulation on top.

#3: Update Your Old Thermostat to a New Smart Thermostat

Upgrading your HVAC themostat provides
another environmentally friendly tool in saving energy. A programmable thermostat allows you to set back your home’s temperature when you’re away, such as at work for the day or on a lengthy vacation. For instance, you can program up to 4 schedules a day, 7 days a week. Smart versions like the Trane Connected Thermostat – XL 824 or XL1050 – expand those capabilities and give you the ability to adjust settings from anywhere when preferences or plans change.

In fact, these thermostats are so advanced, they also come with other key features like Wi-Fi connection, built-in
Nexia Bridge (which gives you the flexibility to remotely monitor and control over other smart home devices such as your home’s lights, locks, and even your garage).

#4: Clean Your HVAC Condenser and Change Your Air Filters

One of the easiest ways to make sure your HVAC system is functioning properly and not overworking is to connect with your local HVAC technician for a seasonal maintenance. Trane provides an awesome certified contractor locator to help you find a company nearby to come evaluate your system. Another option is to follow these basic steps to cleaning the outside condenser and change the air filter inside. 

1.) To clean your condenser coil, first make sure power is shut off to the unit by turning off the power at the disconnect near the unit. 2.) Use a shop vac with a soft bristle attachment to vacuum any loose material or debris that may be inhibiting the cooling coils from working properly. 3.) Use a foaming condenser cleaning product to spray all over the condenser and let it soak for about 10 minutes. 4.) Then rinse the coil with clear low pressure water to remove remaining dirt and debirs. 5.) After that, you’re good to turn the power back on. 

You should do this about once a year to make sure your condenser is clean and working properly. Also, while you’re at it, make sure that there are no plants or obstructions within about 12” all around the unit that make it hard for the unit to breathe properly. If there are, make sure to trim it back. Changing your filter is simple. Just find your air intake for your unit and replace it with the proper size filter. You can find the size you need written right on the side of the previous filter. I recommend you do this around every 3-6 months. 

#5: Replace Old Single Pane Windows with New Energy Star Rated Options

Adding replacement windows or updating windows around your home during a remodel project is a great way to improve the overall energy efficiency of your home. Old single pane windows allow the heat of the sun’s rays to radiate into the home. This can significantly raise the interior temperature which means your A/C system needs to work harder to cool the home.

New double paned windows have an insulating gas between the panes which allows for less heat energy transfer into the home and thus are much more energy efficient. A local window expert can help you decide on what types of windows are right for your home.

Hopefully these tips help give you some ideas to get your home’s energy consumption under control. Not only will it help save you money, but it can help lessen your environmental impact. If you are considering making some energy efficient improvements, I recommend looking at your local utility company’s website. Oftentimes, you can find rebates for energy efficient upgrades to your home that can help you offset those initial costs. Your local and state governments may also have some incentives to take advantage of. All it takes is a little research. 

I’d like to thank the Trane team for sending over the XL824 connected thermostat I installed in the video and for making this project possible. If you’d like some more information on additional energy efficient upgrades you can do around your home, check out Trane’s website.

Thank you, for watching and if it’s your first time visiting the channel, please hit that subscribe button and hit that notification bell so you never miss out on any of the new content I put out. And as always, I encourage you to leave me a comment
down below and let me know what energy improvements you plan on tackling down the road.

Thanks so much for watching and I’ll see you next time.

Top 5 DIY Ways to Get Rid of Ants

5 DIY Electrical Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

This particular faucet is a Moen Oxby widespread faucet which means the sink has 3 holes and the outer holes are more than 4” apart. The install principles will be the same with most widespread faucets. It can take a little patience, but the end product will be worth it. 

#1: Remove the Old Faucet

Once you have the proper style faucet for your sink, step #1 is to remove the old faucet (if you are replacing it with a new one). This is a newly remodeled bathroom so I don’t have an old one to remove in this case. Make sure you remove any old caulk or sealants as well as any old gaskets that may be present so you have a nice clean sink to work with. 

#2: Install the Spout and Handles

Next, install the faucet spout and stem assembly by applying some thread tape to the stem and threading it onto the spout assembly. Apply a small bead of plumbers putty around the base of the spout assembly and Insert the spout assembly into the center hole of the sink. Mount it in place with the included hardware kit and tighten it in place using the included valve socket wrench. 

Next, thread the mounting nut and mounting washer to the valve assemblies and apply a small bead of plumbers putty around the base of the upper washer. Insert the valves assemblies from the underside of the sink and secure them in place with a washer and retaining clip. Make sure the blue colored cold valve goes in the right hole and the red colored hot valve goes in the left hole. Tighten the mounting nuts from underside to tighten the valve in place.

From there, install the faucet handles by threading them onto the valve assemblies and tightening them by hand. 

Slide the lift rod into place in the hole in the backside of the faucet. Next you can start on installing the drain assembly.

#3: Starting the Drain Assembly

Unscrew the top of the drain assembly called a waste seat and apply a bead of plumbers putty around the underside before inserting it into the drain hole in the sink. Apply some thread tape onto the drain assembly and then thread it into the waste seat from the underside and tighten it down. Make sure the threaded hole that protrudes out on drain pipe is facing the back and tighten the drain nut to secure it and the gasket in place making it water tight. You should have some squeeze out of plumbers putty in the sink itself which you can simply wipe away. 

From there you can move onto attaching the lift rod and the sink plug. Add some thread tape to the hole on the backside of the drain assembly, slide the locking nut over the ball rod, and insert it into the hole. Tighten the nut as much as possible by hand. Attach the lift strap to the lift rod and the ball rod and secure it in place with the locking clamp and tighten the screw on the lift rod. You can adjust how the lift rod operates by sliding it up and down the holes on the strapping. Make sure it works for you and then move on to installing the water lines. 

#4: Finishing the Drain Assembly and Water Lines

Attach the diverter hose by snapping the ends over the valve bodies, and the faucet stem assembly. You’ll know they’re seated properly when you hear a click. 

Assemble the P trap assembly by sliding the washer and slip nut over the end of the joint elbow, and wrap the thread in thread tape. Connect the trap, and elbow by tightening the nut by hand. Add the down pipe to the drain assembly by sliding the slip nut and washer over the drain assembly, and slide the trap assembly into the drain pipe in the wall. Once you have everything aligned, tighten the slip nuts at each joint by hand before snugging them up with a pair of channel lock pliers. 

Install your water lines from the valves and connect them to the new valves on the faucet. And lastly, turn the water on at the valves, check to see that the faucet is working properly, and check the drain assembly for any leaks. If you have a small leak, try tightening the nuts further with your pliers. And that’s it, you are done with this project. 

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. Plumbing projects can take a little bit to get used to and obviously each faucet is a little different but once you get the hang of the basics, installing a new faucet is definitely something most homeowners can tackle on their own. 

As always I encourage you to leave me a comment down below and let me know what you thought of the project and what type of project you’d like to see me tackle next. If you liked this project, check out my tutorial on unclogging a bathroom sink. Thank you for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

Sod is a popular option in many renovations because it gives you the option of having an instant green lawn without going through the long process of seeding and growing a lawn. This project isn’t too difficult, but it is a bit labor intensive depending on the state and size of your project area.

#1: Preparing the Area

I am starting with a newly created area that I added with the construction of some retaining walls. The first step was to add fill dirt to the area. Then I could compact it to minimize settling. 

If you are replacing a current lawn, your first step will be to kill the existing lawn and remove it. Don’t install sod over existing grass because the existing lawn will decompose underneath and heat up killing the sod above. 

Once you’ve killed and removed the existing lawn, you can then use a rototiller to prep the area and loosen the existing soil. In my case, I brought the grade up using basic fill dirt. Then I added a few inches of top soil to bring it up to the grade that I needed. 

You’ll also need to make sure you have irrigation installed in the sod area. This is crucial if you’re living in a dry climate. Sod requires regular watering to successfully root so having an irrigation system or regular watering schedule is necessary for success.

You’ll need to make sure your irrigation system has head-to-head coverage so that  your sod is fully watered. If you’d like some tips on how to install a sprinkler system, I’ll walk you through the process here.

From there, use a large rake to fine grade the area. Depending on the sod you choose, you’ll want to make sure the finished grade is that thickness below any walkways or driveways. In my case, the finished grade is ½” below the surrounding patio. Apply a sod starter fertilizer/seed starter over the area and then use a roller to settle and firm the surface.

#2: Installing the Sod

Measure the area you’ll be installing and order your sod. Many sod distributors can deliver same day or next day and once it arrives, begin installing it immediately as it needs to be installed before drying out and wilting in the sun. Make sure you have the day set aside to tackle the project in one go when deciding when to have the sod delivered if you’re having it delivered. 

In this case, I’m installing a Marathon II sod which is dense, durable, and quick to recover. I recommend finding a sod dealer in your area that can help you choose which sod is best for your application and climate. Sod pricing can vary greatly depending on your area, so do some research on expected pricing for your area. 

The sod arrives on a pallet and in strips. Start by laying the sod along the longest edge or boundary first and stagger each new row in a brick like pattern. Cut the sod around any obstacles or edges with a large knife or spade shovel. I found using a drywall knife actually worked pretty well. You just have to clean it well afterwards. 

Make sure you’re bumping the edges of each piece of sod tightly to those around it and water lightly once you’ve installed every 200sq ft of sod.  

#3: Preparing the Sod to Last

Once you’ve covered the entire area, use the roller to roll the entire area and insure solid contact between the sod and the soil beneath. 

Next turn on the sprinkler system and let it run until the sod is good and soaked. Check the recommended guidelines for watering schedule of your chosen side. In my case, I watered 3 times a day for the first week, and then scale back to twice a day for the rest of the month. Once established, I scaled it back further to a couple times a week. Try to water as early in the morning as possible but not before 4am. 

Even though it may seem early, make sure you cut the sod a week after installation or once it reaches around 3”-3.5” tall and fertilize it once a month thereafter for best results. And that’s it, you’re done with your project.

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. Installing sod can be a bit labor intensive but installing it is definitely something most homeowners can tackle on their own.

Thanks for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

As with many projects, I started with a design in Sketchup. It is a simple design, so anyone can make it, and it uses simple fencing materials that can be found at your local big box store. If you want to follow along, check out the free downloadable plans on my website! While you are there, be sure to check out some of the other projects and plans I have as well.

#1: Building the Base

I’m using redwood for this project because it is naturally rot and insect resistant. Because I’m going to be planting vegetables, I also did not want to use pressure or chemically treated lumber that could affect the soil. Redwood is easy to get in California where I live, but if you don’t have access to it, another rot-resistant wood like cedar is a good alternative.

I cut a couple of redwood 2 by 4’s and spaced them out using redwood balusters. Then I screwed them together with exterior decking screws. Next I added some 2″ swiveling casters to the base, because I want to be able to move this garden around. I’m not sure where I want it to live long term. Being able to move it around is important to me, and the wheels make it unique.

Once it is all put together, you won’t be able to see the wheels easily either.

#2: Creating the Box

With the base complete, I added the balusters that will act as the uprights in the corners. Before adding the fence pickets, I also added some wire mesh to the base to help support the soil and protect it from critters.

I began adding the picket fencing to the sides. I cut each one at 4′ long and used the remaining piece on the sides. Using my carpenter’s pencil, I ensured there was a 1/4″ space between each. The lowest course should fall 3/4″ off the ground which will help obscure the wheels. This is also enough space to push the box along an uneven hard surface.

Once all 4 courses were installed, I cut off the excess uprights.

#3: The Finishing Touches

I added some weed fabric to the bottom to ensure water doesn’t rot the inside of the box. It is water permeable, but I poked some holes in the bottom to add better drainage at the bottom. You could also use thick plastic if you wanted. The redwood is naturally rot resistant, so I don’t mind having it weather naturally.

Next I added some additional fence pickets to dress up the corners of the box. I simply butted two pieces together and screwed them together at 90 degree angles. Then I attached those to the corners. To finish off, I’m going to add a mitered frame to the top.

For this frame, I added a 2 1/2″ lip around the outside which give a nice work surface. This adds a nice work surface without intruding on the planting area too much. Finally, I just need to add my vegetables, and this project is complete.

I’m really happy with how this planter box turned out. It’s pretty big and heavy, but being able to move it is really cool. The only thing I might add next time is a cage over the top to protect it from animals, but I’ll tackle that down the road if I need to.

I hope you all liked this project. Again, if you want more detailed measurements and step-by-step instructions, please check out the free downloadable plans on my website. Please feel free to leave a comment to let me know what you thought or if you have ideas for some other projects I could do!

Thank you guys so much, and I’ll see you next time!

If you enjoyed this project, here are a few other projects you might enjoy.

How to Build a DIY Giant Toy Box

DIY Budget Friendly Workbench