1. Tune up your tools

Getting your tools ready is your first step because it makes sure everything is functioning properly and keeps you from going out and wasting money on plants that you plant too early that might get killed off by a late frost. (Guilty!) Sharpen your tools and blades, change oil and filters and do any small engine maintenance that you didn’t do in the fall.

Now If you’ve transitioned to mostly battery outdoor tools like I have, the maintenance is minimal but get your batteries charged up (Showcase the Stihl mower/tools), and get the tools cleaned up. 

2. Raking, Trimming & Dethatching

You can start trimming back some overgrowth on limbs and trees in early spring and focus on removing any damaged branches that occurred over winter. However, when it comes to raking – Don’t Start too early – bees and some other beneficial insects can overwinter in leaves and debris piles. Wait until the weather is consistently in the 50’s before you clean everything up. Raking can help get sun and nutrients to the soil but don’t do it too early. 

The same can be said for dethatching. Dethatching is the process of removing the thick layer of dead grass and organic material that accumulates around the base of your grass where it meets the soil. It can be beneficial to remove to allow more nutrients into the soil and to mitigate fungal growth but doing it too early in the year can actually harm your lawn’s chances of success. Instead of dethatching early, You can Use a leaf blower to help loosen up some of that matted grass and save your dethatching until later in the year. 

3. Compost

Once it’s warm enough to rake, all the materials you’re raked up from your lawn make great compost to get started for your garden. The dead leaves and small twigs make great additions to your food scraps and waste from the kitchen which will turn into valuable nutrients for your garden. 

I picked up a 50 gallon Compost Tumbler from Northern Tool which is pretty easy to assemble and is easy on your back because it’s elevated and on wheels so it’s easy to move around. 

4. Mowing and mulching

If you don’t want to rake up all those annoying leaves, cutting your lawn at around 2 – 2.5” in mid spring can actually add some nutrients to the soil and help fertilize your lawn. Don’t cut it too short early in the year as it can shock the grass before it’s fully awoken from it’s dormant state. 

5. Check Your Soil Temperature and/or Do a Soil Test

Before you move onto any other steps it’s best to make sure your soil is ready to handle any seeding or fertilizer. Use a thermometer to check soil temperature and make sure your soil is consistently in the 50 degree range. If you fertilize your soil too early, you risk wasting money because the soil isn’t capable of handling the nutrients until it warms up. High nitrogen fertilizers too early in the season can cause more damage than good. 

If you’re not a gardener and don’t have a soil thermometer you can also use a long screwdriver or sharp object to check the soil. Stick the screwdriver into the soil. It should be able to reach a depth of about 6 inches into the soil relatively easily and without tremendous effort. If you’re having trouble getting the screwdriver down that far, it still may be a little early to move on to the next steps. 

6. Aeration

You can aerate in Spring if you need to and you want to jumpstart your lawn but I personally think aerating in the fall months is best. Soil temperatures should be at least 55-60 degrees before you get started. Aerating loosens up the compaction of the soil and allows water and nutrients to get into the soil, but it also provides an opportunity for weeds to germinate easily and can actually dry out your lawn more.  

If your lawn was stressed out last fall, you might want to reconsider aerating in the spring and focus on some of the next things instead. 

7. Overseeding & Fertilizing

Once the soil temperatures have increased to about 60 degrees and up, now is the time to fertilize and overseed your lawn. If the soil is not warm enough to uptake the seeds or nutrients you’re throwing your money away. 

8. Don’t Use Weed Killers on your lawn before it’s woken from dormancy

Weed killers and crab grass blockers can actually inhibit the growth of your grass and specifically any new seed you’re trying to germinate. If you’re going to use these products, make sure you wait til late Spring once your grass has woken up and any new seed has germinated fully. 

9. Try Not to Roll Your Lawn in the Spring Unless you have to

Rolling your lawn Compresses it and Makes it tough for nutrients, light, and water to get to your soil. It’s not uncommon for there to be high and low spots in your lawn that occur over winter, but the best time to roll your lawn is in the fall months when it is soft, full of nutrients, and ready to go into dormancy over the winter months. 

10. Consider Going Drought Tolerant

If you’re continually battling to get the results you want from your lawn year-after-year, it might be time to consider doing some lawn alternatives to make your life easier and cheaper. There are a ton of options out there including synthetic turf which I’ve previously done a video on that I’ll leave a link to, as well as xeriscaping, and adding native plants and grasses to your lawn.

Thanks for checking out this article! I hope it helps you get your lawn ready for the warm summer days ahead! If you enjoyed this article, here are a few more you might like.

Do These 3 Things to Get Your Lawn Ready for Summer!

How to Install Sod

Sometimes you just get lucky! That’s what happened when my brother and I stumbled upon this old backyard playset for FREE! Sure it needs a little TLC, but that’s not a problem. In this article I’m going to show you the steps of restoring a backyard playset so it’s as good as new!

This project contains a paid product integration from Thompson’s WaterSeal. All opinions herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

While I was home in New York a few weeks ago, my brother got a lead on a free playset from a few friends. Their kids have long outgrown it. They were planning to toss it so we offered to come pick it up and haul it away. Apart from it being pretty weathered, all the major components were still intact. So we hitched up the trailer and hauled it back to my brother’s house.

Assembling the Playset

After about 45 minutes of assembly (and some heavy lifting), the playset was back together and we got a good sense of how much work it needed to be restored. Fortunately, apart from the wood being really weathered and the finish needing to be replaced, it was in decent shape. Nothing major was missing and they had the original roof panels too!

The wood frame of the playset hasn’t been sealed or kept up with for quite a few years so it was pretty clear it was in need of a good sealant. The wood was weathered through and the finish had been completely worn off in some spots. Fortunately there weren’t any major areas of rot or cracking that needed to be replaced.

Sealing & Restoring the Playset

We wanted to stain the playset so it looked pretty close to the original finish. We found the Autumn Brown Semi-Transparent Stain and Sealer at Lowe’s and thought it’d be a perfect fit for this project. The first thing I did was go around the playset and used a putty knife to just knock off any old flaking finish and scraped off any dirt that had accumulated on it.

From there, my brother and I tag teamed the whole playset making sure to cover every inch with the new stain and sealant. We used a combination of a brush and a roller to cover the whole thing.

Another great feature of the stain & sealant we chose is that it is a single coat application. No need to go over it a second time which saves a lot of time. The stain & sealer went on simple and smooth. It covered the discolored areas easily and completely blended it to make it look like a seamless finish. It provides ultimate protection from water and sun damage, giving it long-lasting, durable protection.

We used about half of the gallon container to finish the whole playset. Cleaning up was super easy with just some warm water because it’s a water based product.

Finished Product

We were super happy with how the playset came back to life. Restoring a backyard playset like this is a super easy project. You’d never know it wasn’t new by looking at it! For less than $50 and a couple hours of work, we were able to give the kids an awesome new place to play. The kids absolutely loved it!

I would call this project a serious score! Now if only every project was this easy!

If you liked this project, here are a few other lawn & garden projects and tutorials you might enjoy.

And Click here for more Thompson’s WaterSeal project ideas and inspiration. 

How to Install Artificial Turf

How to Restore a Wheelbarrow

When it comes to ground cover, most homeowners want something “low maintenance.” Few things are as low maintenance as artificial turf. Advancements in turf tech have come a long way from the classic green carpet days. Today I’m going to show you how you can install a beautiful artificial turf lawn at your home. Watch the video above to follow along. 

Disclosure: This video and article contains and unpaid product integration by Synlawn. Check out their full line of turf products here: https://www.synlawn.com/

Click here for a complete list of tools I mentioned in this project. (affiliates)

For this project I’ll be using the SynAugustine547 artificial turf which was provided to me by SynLawn. I found Synlawn after doing a lot of research on artificial turf. What I really like about this product is that Synlawn uses a biobased material that is made from soybeans to create a realistic looking turf that is environmentally friendly and not petroleum based. It’s also anti-microbial, and manufactured in the United States. 

This is one of the rare instances where I’ll say that this isn’t really a pure “DIY” job. Meaning that it’s not really something I recommend doing on your own. That’s not to say it can’t be done (as you’ll see) but at least having several people available to help you will make your life so much easier. But given the social distancing measures in place at the moment, I chose to try and see if I could tackle it on my own. 

Preparing the Base

The first and most important step to getting a quality installation is to properly prepare the base. In this case, I am working in a newly constructed area so it requires filling with base material, vibrating it to force the material to settle, and to grade the base properly. If you’re installing over an existing lawn area, your first step will be to kill the existing lawn and remove as much of it as possible. If you have a solid base to work from and want to skip ahead over the next part, I’ll leave a timecode link down below to take you to the next steps. Otherwise, if you need to fill and grade the area. I’ll show you how to do that now. 

How to Properly Grade the Area

One of the most important steps is making sure the area is graded properly. That means is that it is sloped properly for adequate drainage. In this case, I worked with my building transit to create a grading map of the area. The transit allows you to set a level point of reference so that you can measure the elevation differences across your area to create a grading map. Many pros now use laser levels to achieve this but it’s not a tool I currently own. In this case, I want the highest elevation to be up against the house and slope towards the outer retaining walls at ¼” per foot slope. This area is roughly 18 ft wide, so I want the highest area by the house to be 4.5” higher than the outer wall grade. 

As I fill and compact the fill, I repeatedly check the grade to make sure that it is what I need it to be. Compaction is important because the loose soil/or fill will settle over time so compaction speeds up the settling process and will make sure the installation lasts over time. Adding water throughout the process helps the soil or fill settle and also helps keep the dust down. You can rent both a vibratory plate, which is good for vibrating about 4” deep of material. Or a jumping jack which allows you to compact a little thicker base material. If you are adding a lot of fill to an area, it’s a good idea to compact it in layers along the way until you get the elevation about ½” to ¾” below where you want your final turf elevation to be. 

My Mistake

Now this is where I made a mistake in my initial installation. As I reached my final grade, I should have used a fill material with smalleraggregate like a decomposed granite for the final 4” or so of fill. The road base I used had larger rocks in it (even than what it was supposed to) so it didn’t compact super smooth. When I rolled out the turf initially, I could feel all the little discrepancies. That’s why I’m saying the base preparation is the most important part of the installation. 

Cutting and Installing

Roll out the turf and cut it to the proper size using a utility knife or turf cutting tool. Be sure to cut the turf slightly larger than the area you’re installing in. That way you can trim off any excess later on and ensure complete coverage. If your area is larger than the turf roll you’ll need to seam the turf.

Seaming the Turf

To seam the pieces together, I ripped another strip of the turf (paying attention to make sure the fibers were in the same direction) and then aligned the edges along with the other piece. Once I made sure the pieces lined up properly, I used a few landscape spikes to hold the pieces in place and folded open the seam. Next I rolled out some turf seam tape and staked it in place along the length of the seam. (Don’t buy cheap landscape staples off Amazon unless you want to waste half of them by bending them) I’d recommend just buying 6” galvanized landscape spikes. 

From there, you’ll want to apply a liberal amount of outdoor carpet adhesive to the tape, and spread it evenly across using a notched trowel. Let the glue cure for 10-15 minutes and then slowly work your way down the seam, connecting the two sides and securing the seam in place with landscape spikes. Pay careful attention to make sure you get a tight seam between the two pieces. 

Tightening and Trimming

Make your way around the perimeter of the installed area and use landscape spikes to secure the turf in place. If you notice any loose areas, you can use a carpet kicker to get the turf nice and tight. You can use a variety of different tools to cut off the excess on the edges but I had the best luck with just a regular utility knife. Take your time to carefully cut around any obstacles like trees, planter beds, or drains. 

Adding Infill

Once you have the turf laid out and installed, next you’ll need to add the infill. For residential use, the most common infill is sand. In this case I’m using Envirofill sand which is an antimicrobial that helps prevent bacteria, mold, and mildew from forming in your turf. This infill is perfect for play areas and pets. The infill helps the grass fibers of the turf to stand up, and adds weight to hold the turf in place. It also keeps the turf much cooler than the rubber infill alternatives. 

I used a large seed spreader to spread the sand around the turf making sure to cover the entire surface. I used about 1 bag per 20 Sq. ft as instructed on the bag. 

And finally, once the sand is installed, the final step for the installation is to use a stiff bristled push broom or turf rake to sweep the sand into the fibers and help them stand up. Make sure to work in the same direction across the turf to help create a uniform surface. From there you can do any last minute touch ups around the edges or at the seams with a pair of scissors which will be the last time you’ll ever have to cut this grass! 

And that’s it, you are finished with this project. 

Finished Product

I hope you guys enjoyed it and I hope you learned something new. I know I did as this was my first time installing synthetic turf like this. It’s not a project I recommend you tackle as a one person operation. But it’s definitely something you and a few friends could knock out in a weekend. My family absolutely loves the way this space came together and it’s such a comfortable and nice play area for my son.

If you liked this project I encourage you to subscribe to the channel. Also check out some of these other outdoor projects. 

How to Install Sod

How to Install a Sprinkler System

Thanks for your support!

I’m currently tackling a backyard overhaul project and as part of it, I need to install a few new irrigation zones. I installed this small succulent garden a few years ago which doesn’t require a ton of water. With the heat of the summer, however, I’m still sick of pulling the hose out every time. So today I’m going to show you how I plan to install a sprinkler system for it and some nearby plants.

Here is a list of tools and materials you may need to tackle this project. (affiliates)

1.) Water Supply

Step one is to locate a nearby water supply. In this case I have an unused spigot behind my old shed that I plan to tap into to use as the source for this line. To determine how many sprinklers I can have on this line, I’ll have to do some basic calculations. We need to determine our flow rate, and water pressure for the house. The easiest way to test the water pressure is to use a water pressure gauge like this one and attach it to a spigot. In this case, the water pressure is just shy of 60 PSI.

Next, to determine the flow rate I use a 5 gallon bucket and turn the water on fully to see how long it takes to fill the bucket. Multiply the size of the bucket which is 5 x 60 seconds. Then divide that number by the number of seconds it took to fill. In this case, it’s around 20 seconds. So the flow rate is about 15 gallons/minute.

Once you have that number, it can help you determine how many sprinkler heads you can have on a zone or how many zones you need. In this case, I’ll be installing these pop up Rain Bird 1800 series sprinklers and a couple dedicated drip lines. You can check the flow rate of your chosen sprinkler types and what their coverage is on the manufacturer’s website. I only need about 6 sprinklers total for this zone and each head has a flow rate of less than 1 gpm so I have plenty of pressure and flow rate for the needed coverage. Depending on your layout, you’ll likely need to buy a combination of different pieces, fittings, and unions. I recommend you buy more than you need and return the unused stuff.

2.) Digging the Trench

Once all the stupid math is out of the way, it’s time for some good old manual labor! You’ll have to dig a trench to bury the line. Depending on the size of the area you’re working in and the type of soil you have, that can either be easy or a huge pain in the ass. In most cases for irrigation lines, anywhere from 8 to 12” deep is sufficient to bury your pipes; however, if you live in an area that freezes, make sure you plan to drain your lines at the end of the season so they don’t freeze and rupture during the winter. 

Once you have the digging out of the way, you can start laying out your piping and sprinkler heads. There are a lot of different products out there you can use. I typically just use schedule 40 PVC pipe because I find it easy to work with. In this case I’m using ¾” diameter schedule 40. I just work my way around, laying the pipe. Whenever I reach an area where I want a sprinkler head I use one of these ¾” tee joints with a ½” threaded outlet where I will screw in a threaded riser for the sprinkler head.  At each joint, I use purple PVC primer and cement, making sure to prime each piece and then apply plenty of cement to hold each joint together so they’re water tight.

3.) Connecting the Sprinkler System

Once I’ve laid out and installed all the sprinkler heads, it’s time to connect the line to the water supply. You have a bunch of different options for different types of zone valves here but they all basically do the same thing, they allow the water to kick on either manually when you activate the valve, or on a timer if you have it connected to an irrigation system. Some, like the one I installed here run off solar power and operate on their own.

These “anti-syphon” zone valves allow the water to flow out to the sprinkler lines, but not back-flow and contaminate your drinking water. You install your sprinkler line to the outlet side of the valve and connect the inlet side to your water supply line. Add as many zones as needed based on your flow rate and water pressure. You can even add an isolation valve like this one which allows you to shut off the water to the irrigation lines without shutting off the main water supply to the house.

Once everything is connected, let the cement cure for at least 30 minutes. Then turn on the water and check the pipes for leaks. After that, turn on your zone valve and sit back and watch your plants get watered. Then you can just backfill in your trench and that’s all it takes to install a sprinkler system.

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. It can take a little bit of time to install a sprinkler system, but once you get the hang of it, it’s a relatively simple project you can knock out by yourself and hopefully save yourself some money.

If you liked this project, check out some of my other lawn projects:

Lawnmower of the Future?

3 Things to Prepare Your Lawn for Summer

Thanks for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

1.) Raking

Raking is a very important step in the spring lawn prep process. It should be the first task you tackle as it will help prepare your lawn for the following steps. Not only does raking gather the lingering mess from Winter (leaves/clumped grass/dog donations), but it will also help break up any “snow mold” your lawn may have accumulated. It is important to do a deep rake to help with dethatching, so get those arms pumping and start working on that summer beach bod. Rake when the ground is nice and soft and just after the grass starts waking up from the Winter season.

2.) Overseeding

Arguably, THE most important step to the look and health of your lawn is overseeding. Whether you have bare spots from plow damage or snow mold, early Spring is a good time to jump start your lawn repairs. Overseeding is also great for filling in your lawn, which creates optimal health. The best way for your lawn to fight disease and drought is to have a thick & healthy lawn (along with proper watering and a touch of fertilization). The best time to seed varies on what part of the country you live in, take a look at this article to see when is best for you. If you choose to seed in the Spring you will want to do earlier rather than later to give the seedlings time to mature. When you are ready, get your favorite bag of seed, follow the directions, and watch your lawn fill up! Pro Tip: Do not skimp out on watering!

3.) Fertilizing

When it comes to lush and beauty, fertilizer can be the icing on the cake for your lawn. If applied incorrectly, it can easily become that hot wheels car you step on in the middle of the night. Fertilizer applications, like overseeding, have great results during the early Fall season. With that said, fertilizer in the Spring time can catapult your lawn to early success. It’s all about timing, as if you apply too early it can disrupt the growth cycle. This is why I recommend waiting until the end of May to apply. Fertilizer companies will push to do it sooner and more often, but I’m a true believer in waiting until the growth cycle is complete. Apply the fertilizer later to help your lawn look great through the Summer months. When you do decide to fertilize, give your lawn a 1lb feeding of slow-release nitrogen. Here is a list of the best fertilizers.

There you have it, a short & doable check list to give your lawn the BEST chance at looking great this year. If you follow these steps every year, you will be on your way to neighborhood gold status. Make sure to get out there and pull those pesky weeds and areas of crabgrass. If you want to go above and beyond you can aerate in early spring and again in the Fall. Here are a few additional parting tips:

1.) Make sure your lawn is getting adequate water all season long. Here’s how to install a sprinkler system if you need to.

2.) Avoid mowing grass too low as it will make your lawn more susceptible to weeds and drought stress. Correct length for grass should be around 2 1/2″.

3.) Using a mulching mower when cutting the grass is a excellent source of fertilization for your lawn all year round.

For more landscape projects, check out these other articles.

How to Install Sod

Lawnmower of the Future?

Meet the Pro:

Shawn Gaesser is the owner of Gaesser Lawn Service, and has always had a passion for the outdoors. He started mowing lawns in the summer on the side, and his hard work combined with a focus on customer service allowed him to expand his business into a full-time operation. Gaesser Lawn Service has both commercial and residential customers throughout Western NY.

The post Do These 3 Things to Get Your Lawn Ready for Summer! appeared first on Mr. Fix It DIY.]]> https://mrfixitdiy.com/3-things-to-get-your-lawn-ready-for-summer/feed/ 2 https://mrfixitdiy.com/how-to-fix-a-chip-in-concrete/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=how-to-fix-a-chip-in-concrete&utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=how-to-fix-a-chip-in-concrete Wed, 09 Oct 2019 21:29:03 +0000 https://mrfixitdiy.com/?p=5195 Concrete is a very common building material but it’s also known to chip out or crack. It can chip out for a number of reasons but once it does, it can create a much bigger problem. Today I’m going to show you how to fix concrete chips in case you have something similar around your […]

Concrete is a very common building material but it’s also known to chip out or
crack. It can chip out for a number of reasons but once it does, it can create
a much bigger problem. Today I’m going to show you how to fix concrete chips in case you have something similar around your home. This will also work for sidewalks, and patio slabs as well.

Disclosure: This video and article contains a paid product integration by ZEP USA. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

Cleaning the Chipped Area

This chip is a medium sized chip and is about 6” wide, and about an inch deep.
So the first thing we need to do is clean out the chip of any debris or loose chunks. Start by breaking out the loose chunks with a chisel or other tool like a screwdriver.

Once you have any loose chunks removed, use a wire brush to loosen up any debris and dirt that have built up over time. Getting the surface of the chipped out area clean is the most important part of this project. You need to make sure your new patch can firmly adhere to the old concrete.

Once you have the loose material removed from the chip, you’ll need to use a concrete cleaning product like Zep’s Driveway and Concrete Pressure Wash Concentrate.

This Concrete and Driveway cleaner is perfect for this application because it is a concentrated concrete cleaner that easily removes tire marks, dirt, grease, and oil from any concrete, brick, or asphalt surfaces. For a small chip, you can apply a small amount of the concentrated cleaner to a container of water at the mixture indicated on the bottle. Or you can do what I did and take the opportunity to add a diluted mixture to a pressure washer and just clean your whole driveway. Pay careful attention to the chipped out areas and make sure you thoroughly clean them.

Apply Concrete Patching

Once the chipped out area has had some time to dry, next you’ll need to get a small
amount of a concrete vinyl patching compound like this one. These are available off the shelf at your local big box store and are super easy to use. Simply add a small
amount of water to the powdered mixture. Then mix it up until you have a peanut
butter like consistency, and apply it to the chipped out area with a masonry or
disposable trowel.

You can feather out the surrounding area to match the existing
concrete. For corner chips or areas next to expansion joints, you may have to take a little extra time to form the patch to follow the existing contours. Once the compound has set up for about 20 minutes, use a grouting sponge and some water to clean any excess patching compound from around the patched area and create a seamless patch. For deep or large chips, you may have to apply several coats of the patching
compound to fill the void. And if the area around your chip is heaved, you may need
to do some additional steps of flattening that area using an angle grinder and a diamond grinding wheel.

So that’s it for this episode of Home School’d. I hope you guys enjoyed it and I hope
you learned something. If you’re interested in purchasing any of the products I used
in this video, links to all the tools and materials can be found in the description
below. I also have tips on how to fix a crack in concrete, so check that out here.

Thank you guys so much for checking out this post. For more outdoor projects, click on some of the links below.

DIY Paver Walkway Install

Find the Right Pressure Washer for you!

https://pressurewashr.com/

The post How to Fix a Chip in Concrete appeared first on Mr. Fix It DIY.]]>

Sod is a popular option in many renovations because it gives you the option of having an instant green lawn without going through the long process of seeding and growing a lawn. This project isn’t too difficult, but it is a bit labor intensive depending on the state and size of your project area.

#1: Preparing the Area

I am starting with a newly created area that I added with the construction of some retaining walls. The first step was to add fill dirt to the area. Then I could compact it to minimize settling. 

If you are replacing a current lawn, your first step will be to kill the existing lawn and remove it. Don’t install sod over existing grass because the existing lawn will decompose underneath and heat up killing the sod above. 

Once you’ve killed and removed the existing lawn, you can then use a rototiller to prep the area and loosen the existing soil. In my case, I brought the grade up using basic fill dirt. Then I added a few inches of top soil to bring it up to the grade that I needed. 

You’ll also need to make sure you have irrigation installed in the sod area. This is crucial if you’re living in a dry climate. Sod requires regular watering to successfully root so having an irrigation system or regular watering schedule is necessary for success.

You’ll need to make sure your irrigation system has head-to-head coverage so that  your sod is fully watered. If you’d like some tips on how to install a sprinkler system, I’ll walk you through the process here.

From there, use a large rake to fine grade the area. Depending on the sod you choose, you’ll want to make sure the finished grade is that thickness below any walkways or driveways. In my case, the finished grade is ½” below the surrounding patio. Apply a sod starter fertilizer/seed starter over the area and then use a roller to settle and firm the surface.

#2: Installing the Sod

Measure the area you’ll be installing and order your sod. Many sod distributors can deliver same day or next day and once it arrives, begin installing it immediately as it needs to be installed before drying out and wilting in the sun. Make sure you have the day set aside to tackle the project in one go when deciding when to have the sod delivered if you’re having it delivered. 

In this case, I’m installing a Marathon II sod which is dense, durable, and quick to recover. I recommend finding a sod dealer in your area that can help you choose which sod is best for your application and climate. Sod pricing can vary greatly depending on your area, so do some research on expected pricing for your area. 

The sod arrives on a pallet and in strips. Start by laying the sod along the longest edge or boundary first and stagger each new row in a brick like pattern. Cut the sod around any obstacles or edges with a large knife or spade shovel. I found using a drywall knife actually worked pretty well. You just have to clean it well afterwards. 

Make sure you’re bumping the edges of each piece of sod tightly to those around it and water lightly once you’ve installed every 200sq ft of sod.  

#3: Preparing the Sod to Last

Once you’ve covered the entire area, use the roller to roll the entire area and insure solid contact between the sod and the soil beneath. 

Next turn on the sprinkler system and let it run until the sod is good and soaked. Check the recommended guidelines for watering schedule of your chosen side. In my case, I watered 3 times a day for the first week, and then scale back to twice a day for the rest of the month. Once established, I scaled it back further to a couple times a week. Try to water as early in the morning as possible but not before 4am. 

Even though it may seem early, make sure you cut the sod a week after installation or once it reaches around 3”-3.5” tall and fertilize it once a month thereafter for best results. And that’s it, you’re done with your project.

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. Installing sod can be a bit labor intensive but installing it is definitely something most homeowners can tackle on their own.

Thanks for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

As with many projects, I started with a design in Sketchup. It is a simple design, so anyone can make it, and it uses simple fencing materials that can be found at your local big box store. If you want to follow along, check out the free downloadable plans on my website! While you are there, be sure to check out some of the other projects and plans I have as well.

#1: Building the Base

I’m using redwood for this project because it is naturally rot and insect resistant. Because I’m going to be planting vegetables, I also did not want to use pressure or chemically treated lumber that could affect the soil. Redwood is easy to get in California where I live, but if you don’t have access to it, another rot-resistant wood like cedar is a good alternative.

I cut a couple of redwood 2 by 4’s and spaced them out using redwood balusters. Then I screwed them together with exterior decking screws. Next I added some 2″ swiveling casters to the base, because I want to be able to move this garden around. I’m not sure where I want it to live long term. Being able to move it around is important to me, and the wheels make it unique.

Once it is all put together, you won’t be able to see the wheels easily either.

#2: Creating the Box

With the base complete, I added the balusters that will act as the uprights in the corners. Before adding the fence pickets, I also added some wire mesh to the base to help support the soil and protect it from critters.

I began adding the picket fencing to the sides. I cut each one at 4′ long and used the remaining piece on the sides. Using my carpenter’s pencil, I ensured there was a 1/4″ space between each. The lowest course should fall 3/4″ off the ground which will help obscure the wheels. This is also enough space to push the box along an uneven hard surface.

Once all 4 courses were installed, I cut off the excess uprights.

#3: The Finishing Touches

I added some weed fabric to the bottom to ensure water doesn’t rot the inside of the box. It is water permeable, but I poked some holes in the bottom to add better drainage at the bottom. You could also use thick plastic if you wanted. The redwood is naturally rot resistant, so I don’t mind having it weather naturally.

Next I added some additional fence pickets to dress up the corners of the box. I simply butted two pieces together and screwed them together at 90 degree angles. Then I attached those to the corners. To finish off, I’m going to add a mitered frame to the top.

For this frame, I added a 2 1/2″ lip around the outside which give a nice work surface. This adds a nice work surface without intruding on the planting area too much. Finally, I just need to add my vegetables, and this project is complete.

I’m really happy with how this planter box turned out. It’s pretty big and heavy, but being able to move it is really cool. The only thing I might add next time is a cage over the top to protect it from animals, but I’ll tackle that down the road if I need to.

I hope you all liked this project. Again, if you want more detailed measurements and step-by-step instructions, please check out the free downloadable plans on my website. Please feel free to leave a comment to let me know what you thought or if you have ideas for some other projects I could do!

Thank you guys so much, and I’ll see you next time!

If you enjoyed this project, here are a few other projects you might enjoy.

How to Build a DIY Giant Toy Box

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In this DIY project tutorial I’ll walk you through how to install a post lamp to add some character and some light around your home. I installed these beautiful Charleston Lights from Dolan Designs in my recent backyard overhaul project and love the look they add to the space. Depending on if you’re working with an existing post or starting from scratch, this project can either be very simple or a little challenging so follow along and I’ll show you how I added them into my project. 

Disclosure: This post contains an unpaid product integration from Lamps Expo. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

Tools Used in this Project:

• Klein Tools Wire Fish Tape
• HDX Screwdriver
• 1/4″ Masonry Drill Bit
• Milwaukee M18 Fuel Cordless Drill
• Wire Strippers
• Wire Nuts

The above links are affiliate links for use on this page. For more information on affiliate links and how they help support my content, visit my disclosure page. 

Building the Columns

With the re-design of the backyard, I knew I wanted to have lamp posts around the new upper area. Once the retaining walls were in place, I added brick columns every 8′ around the perimeter.

I had a mason friend of mine build the columns and when he built them, I picked up some 3/4″ PVC electrical conduit and asked him to install it into each column so that I could wire up the lighting later. 

On the post nearest the deck area of the house I had him add a switch box so that I could add an outdoor light switch to control the post lamps. 

Running Electrical and a Switch

If you’re not comfortable working with electricity I recommend that you contact an electrician to install the wiring for the lamps. If you are wanting to add a post lamp to an existing post that doesn’t have conduit built in, you may have to add electrical conduit on the face of the post to power the lamp OR you could explore some solar or battery powered lamps as another option. 

In my case, once the columns were built and the conduit installed, I pulled the necessary wiring through the conduit for the 7 columns using a wire fish tape. I used 12 gauge wiring with a hot wire, neutral wire, and ground wire and pulled enough wiring to leave about 6″ exposed at the top of each post. 

I connected a light switch into the switch box to control the lights, and added a weatherproof, exterior cover on top. 

CAUTION: Before you connect the wiring to any live breaker, be sure to turn off the power at your breaker panel and use a voltage tester to confirm that the power is off.  Be advised that you will likely need to run conduit underground or otherwise to connect your lighting to a circuit breaker. Again, check with an electrician if you’re not sure of the steps. 

Mounting the Post Lamps

With the power off to the breaker for the lamps, I could now mount and wire the post lamps. To mount the post lamps to the brick columns, I used a pier mount base (sold separately) and mounted it to the brick column by laying out the location and pre-drilling the 4 corners in the mounting locations in the brick with a masonry drill bit. 

Next I inserted the plastic expanding anchors that come with the pier mount, and secured the base to the column with the accompanying screws. 

Once the base was installed, I could wire up the lamps. Using a pair of wire strippers, I stripped back about a 1/4″ of wire on each of the hot, neutral, and ground wires, and connected the wires to their corresponding colors on the post lamp itself with the included wire nuts. 

Next I tucked the excess wiring inside the pier mount base, and placed the lamp onto the base. After aligning the lamps in the direction I chose, I fastened the lamp to the base with the screws in the base. Be careful not to overtighten as you risk cracking the base. If you choose to, you can cut the screws shorter using a hacksaw. 

To finish off the lamps, I chose to add these vintage Edison style LED 2300k light bulbs and I think they give the lamps a very elegant look while putting off a nice, warm light that isn’t too harsh. 

Finished Product

I couldn’t be happier with the finished product of this renovation. It’s so nice to finally have an area that we can enjoy in the backyard and nice to finally have a little area of grass for my son to play in. I’d like to say thank you to Lamps Expo for providing the post lamps I installed in this project and if you’re in the market for some post lamps of your own, I encourage you to check them out. 

If you liked this project, here are a few other outdoor projects you may enjoy. 

Installing a DIY Paver Walkway

Adding Curb Appeal with a Front Porch 

In this article I show you 5 ways to maximize shed storage. These tips also work great for your workshop, or even inside your home. With these 5 tips, you can be assured that you are getting the most out of your storage space.

Over the last couple of weeks, I’ve been working on a project that I’ve been wanting to do for a while now: replacing my old shed with a new one that will; hopefully, provide the storage space I really need. The old shed has a lot of problems, including being too small, no ceiling height, and honestly, too gross.

In the process, I thought I’d share with all of you some of what I’ve learned, and what I consider to be 5 great ways to maximize shed storage space.

So let’s get started!

Disclosure: This post contains a paid product placement by The Container Store. All views and opinions are my own.

1.) Store Tools for Similar Projects Together

One lost or misplaced tool can bring any project to a screeching halt. Before your workshop can be fully utilized, you need to make sure everything is easy to find and reach. But, if you want to take it even one step further, I’d recommend storing all tools you may use for the same projects in the same place.

For my new shed, I’m utilizing a group of tubs to help keep all these different tools separate but accessible. It’s easy to step into my shed, grab a tub, and get started right away. By doing this, I not only maximize shed storage, I also save myself the frustration that comes with not having my tools when I need them.

2.) Use the Same or Similar Size Storage Containers

One thing that can really help you stay organized is to use the same or similar sized storage containers. They can be much easier to stack and keep cleaned up as opposed to having a ton of different sized and shaped containers. It can feel like you’re playing Tetris every time you have to pull something out or put it back.

Every once in a while it may be beneficial to go through your stuff and buy a bunch of the same containers and then transfer items into the new tubs so that you can stay as organized as possible.

3.) Utilize Shelving

This ties into my first tip, in that your number one priority should really be accessibility. Storage space is only really helpful when you’re not having to climb over a pile of junk to get to what you need. So I recommend getting some kind of shelving to help organize everything.

I’m using the ELFA system from The Container Store to help keep those same tubs from just stacking up, so I can reach over and grab what I need without doing a ton of lifting, moving, and groaning. And this also helps you maximize the vertical storage space your shed can offer, which brings me to…

4.) Get Things Off the Floor

My old shed was a mess, with everything packed together and covering the entire floor. And there were still a ton of lawn care tools that had to rest outside because they couldn’t fit! Luckily, with my new shed, I’m able to use the racks I installed as part of the ELFA system. My set of lawn and garden hangers can cling to my rakes and shovels to get them off the ground and against the wall.

I also installed some Gladiator cabinets to add a bit more storage which ensures that I can store more stuff than I even thought I would be able to. This includes cleaning supplies and other products that were taking up space in my home. Remember, if you can’t walk through your shed and reach the stuff you need, then your shed isn’t being utilizing its storage space effectively.

5.) Label Everything You Can

I’ve found that labeling tubs, shelves, and cabinets can save me a lot of time and headaches. If you leave tools in your shed for a couple months, you may find yourself digging through your cabinets and tubs anyway.

So print some labels, or in a pinch, just use a marker. You’ll be glad you took the time, because once everything has a place and a label, your life just gets easier and easier. And of course even if you maximize shed storage space, it isn’t 100% effective unless you know where everything is when you need it.

I hope these tips were helpful to you, and hopefully it gives you some ideas on how to maximize your storage space, whether you have a shed, or just work in your garage. It’s important to keep your tools handy and organized.

If you liked these tips, here are some other DIY Home Improvement projects you might enjoy.

5 DIY Ways to Get Rid of Ants

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