This post contains paid product mention from GE. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Step 1: Diagnose the Problem

In this case, the leak in the garage below only seemed to occur during showers. This indicates water was escaping outside the shower—likely due to improper use of a shower curtain or gaps in the sealant at the tub’s edges. To fix this, resealing the tub and shower was the best solution.

Step 2: Remove the Old Sealant

The first and most time-consuming step is removing the old sealant. Use a utility knife, razor blade scraper, or trowel to scrape off all the old material. Be thorough—clean edges are essential for the new sealant to adhere properly.

Step 3: Choose the Right Sealant

For flexible, modern fiberglass tubs, a durable sealant is key. GE Sealant Supreme Silicone is an excellent choice. It’s 100% waterproof, offers permanent flexibility, and withstands the natural movement of the tub over time.

Step 4: Prepare the Tub

Before sealing, fill the tub with water. This step applies maximum pressure to the tub’s joints, ensuring the sealant can adjust and contract properly once the water is removed.

Use painter’s tape along the edges of the tub to create clean lines. This simple trick helps achieve a professional-looking finish, even if your application isn’t perfect.

Step 5: Apply the Sealant

Start with the areas where the tub meets the tile. If the tile work is neat, a clear silicone sealant is ideal because it blends seamlessly and doesn’t draw attention. For areas where the grout lines or edges are uneven, like where the tub meets the floor, white silicone is better at covering imperfections.

Apply steady, even pressure while running the sealant along the edges. Once you’ve finished, carefully peel off the painter’s tape before the sealant dries.

Step 6: Let It Cure

Leave the water in the tub for a few hours after sealing, then drain it to allow the sealant to fully cure. This ensures a watertight bond that will last.

Bonus Tip: Save Your Leftover Sealant

Don’t toss the leftover silicone! Wrap the tip of the tube with painter’s tape to keep it sealed and ready for your next project.

Why Resealing Is Important

Resealing your bathtub and shower is a simple yet essential DIY task that prevents water damage, mold growth, and costly repairs. Plus, with quality products like GE Sealant Supreme Silicone, you’ll get a long-lasting, professional-grade result.

Shop DIY Essentials:
Get all the products featured in this tutorial—including the GE Sealant Supreme Silicone—on my Amazon storefront here.

With these steps, your bathtub and shower will be sealed for good, saving you time, stress, and money. Ready to tackle your own DIY sealing project? Good luck!

Tackling a tile installation job in your home is one of those projects many homeowners steer clear of. While installing tile on your own can be a little tricky, once you’ve done it a few times, have the right tools, and a little bit of confidence, it’s a great skillset you can add to your arsenal. That’s why this week I’ve teamed up with Kobalt Tools to share 10 DIY Tiling Tips to Tile Like a Pro! Follow along with all my tips in the video above or feel free to scroll through them all down below!

For more tips from a Tile Professional, check out my interview with Professional Tile Setter, Adam Esparza of Ale Tile Co. 

This project contains a paid product integration from Kobalt Tools. All opinions herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

1.) Get Yourself the Right Tools

To get a quality installation with your tile, you’ll need some basic tools to get started. I recommend that you have the following tools on hand:

• A hammer
• A pencil
• A level
• A Utility Knife
• A drill and paddle mixer for mixing mortar
• Various notched trowels (1/4″, 5/32″, 3/16″ depending on your application
• A rubber grout float and sponge
• Some knee pads
• A clean bucket
• A tile cutter. (A wet tile saw or tile score and snap tool is really useful especially if you’re doing a larger tile project. However, if you can’t find or rent one, you can also use an angle grinder with a diamond cutoff blade, OR a small saw with a diamond blade like this one with a diamond cutoff blade.)

Thanks to Kobalt Tools for sending over many of the tools you see in this video for to me to put to the test.

2.) Make sure your Subfloor is Flat and Level

When doing a tile floor project you’ll want to make sure your floor is flat and level. You can use either a cement backer board, or what is called a dry pack mortar bed to set your tile on. A backer board application is more DIY friendly but creating your own mortar bed allows you to level uneven surfaces. You can also use a self leveling product to adjust your subfloor first and then apply a backer board or other membrane to tile over. You never want to tile directly over wood as wood expands and contracts in moisture and can cause your tile and grout to crack. 

3.)  Know the difference between mastic and Thin Set Mortar and when to use each

There are 2 main categories of adhesive to choose from when installing tile. 

1.) Mastic:

Commonly sold in stores as “Tile Adhesive”. Mastic is a pre-mixed glue like product and should only be used in primarily dry applications like kitchen backsplashes. Mastic is stickier than mortar so it’s good for vertical wall applications that aren’t exposed to regular moisture. When installing a backsplash with mastic I use a 3/16″ or 5/32” notched trowel to apply mastic to the wall in small working areas, and then press the tile in place on the wall with a grout float to make sure it seats properly. The notches in the trowel help secure the tile and make sure you aren’t over applying too much mastic which will squeeze out and cause problems especially if you’re using small mosaic tiles like these. 

2.)Thin-Set Mortar

Thin-set on the other hand can be used in any application and is my primary method for tile installation. Thin set is sold in bags or boxes and is mixed with water to create a peanut butter like paste. I use thinset for all flooring applications, shower and bath enclosures, and any large format tile installs. Keep your notches running in one direction and make sure that your notches are full. 

4.) Use Layout Lines

In older homes, sometimes the rooms aren’t square and it can be difficult to determine how the tile will look when installed. When installing square or rectangular tiles, I like to always reference the longest wall in the room and draw a line down the middle of the room. I usually add at least 1 perpendicular line as well. I reference these lines as I’m installing the tile to make sure the courses are staying straight to the room. Depending how square or out of square the room is, you can also use the Pathagoreon theorem or 3-4-5 rule to create square lines in the room. 

5.) Setting Your First Course Is Most Important

Installing the first course of tile is the most important to make sure you have a quality install. You can roughly layout tiles in the room to make sure you won’t have sliver cuts at the end as well. I typically like to shift the tile layout so that I have roughly a ½ piece of tile at each wall. Laying out your tile setup in something like Sketchup can also help you determine how to best set your first course. I always like to hide cuts as much as possible outside of the primary eye-line so keeping them along the edge of the room is best in my opinion.  

6.) Know When to Back Butter

A large format tile is a tile that is larger than 12″ x 12″. When installing a large format tile like this it’s important to do a technique called back buttering. Back buttering involves adding a thin coat of thinset to the backside of your tile using the flat side of the trowel. Pressing the tile down into the notches of the mortar on the floor or wall will create a full seat for the tile and not allow for air gaps to be created underneath. Air gaps under the tile can lead to cracks or breaks in the tile down the road if something is dropped in that area. In MOST small tile applications like subway tiles, you likely don’t need to back butter the tiles. 

7.) Trim your Door Casing!

You can almost always tell a professional tile job from a DIY tile job in a few ways. The most common DIY mistake I see is how people handle cuts around door jambs/frames. Many times people elect to cut around the door casing which can look okay if you do it really well BUT you’ve also now encased the door casing in so if you ever want to change it you’ll have to cut it off at the tile. The proper way is to use a tool like an oscillating tool to cut off the casing so you can slide the tile underneath it. It gives you a clean finish and also will allow you to change the casing easily later on if desired. Another mistake I see often is uneven tiles which leads me to my next point.

8.)  Use Tile Leveling Spacers to Minimize Lippage

Tiling is a bit of an imperfect science. There are a lot of variables to getting it to look right. Small changes in the amount of mortar, a floor that isn’t flat, or a random loose stone in your mortar can all affect how the tile sets. I recommend using tile leveling spacers to minimize lippage as much as possible. Lippage occurs when one tile is proud of the other tile which can easily be seen with the eye or felt under foot. Leveling spacers help even out any imperfections in your installation. 

9.) Use an Angle Grinder To Create Radiused or Plunge Cuts

Cutting radius cuts or cuts in the middle of a tile for something like a receptacle can be a little tricky. I like to use an angle grinder with a diamond cutoff wheel to make those cuts. Another option for small cuts are edges of tile is to score lines in the tile and use tile nippers to follow the contours. 

10.) Choose the Right Grout

Choosing the Right Grout is as important as choosing the right tile. When choosing a grout there are 3 typical types to choose from. 

#1.) Sanded Grout

Sanded grout is a grout that contains larger aggregate sand that is used for larger spacing applications greater than ⅛”. So if you are using a ¼” tile spacer in your project you’ll want to make sure you choose a sanded grout for your application. 

#2.) Non-sanded grout

Non-sanded on the other hand is a finer grout and is used for tile applications where the spacing between tiles is < ⅛”. With either sanded or non-sanded grout, you want to make sure you seal the grout with a grout sealant to keep out dirt and grime. 

#3.) Epoxy Grout

Unlike Sanded and Non-Sanded Grout which are cement based products, epoxy grout is epoxy based which makes it very durable, waterproof, and resistant to cracks and staining.  However, the application process is more challenging, is higher cost, and has a more plastic like appearance. 

My Grouting Tips:

In most flooring applications, I always like to choose a grout that is as close to the floor tile as possible to minimize the discrepancies that can be created from dirt and grime build up but that’s just my personal preference.

To install sanded/non-sanded grout, you mix it like you would mortar but slightly more watery and then spread it across the tile application with a rubber float. After it hazes over for about 30 minutes, use a sponge to wipe off any excess. (I personally like to use a disposable head mop to save my back and knees as much as possible.)

So that’s it for my 10 Tiling Tips! I hope they’re helpful as you tackle your next (or first) DIY Tile project. If you liked this content, here are some more tips/tricks you might enjoy!

Tile Like a Pro | Tips from an Old World Craftsman

10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro!

Good luck and thanks for following!

Having clean water is essential for you and your family’s health and everyday tasks. Many people don’t know what contaminants are present in their drinking water. It could be anything from bacteria, to lead or corrosion from old pipes. Maybe something just makes your drinking water taste a little funky. Installing a water filtration system in your home can go a long way to adding peace of mind to you and your family. You should be confidant you’re drinking the highest quality water possible on a daily basis. Today, I’m going to help you do just that!

Disclosure: This project contains a paid product placement by Survivor Filter who generously supplied the filtration systems you’ll be seeing me install today. Get 15% OFF a Survivor Filter In-Home System at the link above or using the code MRFIXITDIY at checkout. Survivor Filter carries a wide range of water filters whether you’re at home or on the go so you can quickly transform water from contaminated to clean in a matter of minutes. All opinions are my own. 

What’s great about the Survivor Filter options is that they have both larger sized systems for use in higher usage areas like kitchens, and smaller systems for use in less used areas like bathroom sinks. It’s also great that their in-home products are manufactured here in the United States. Each system comes with an easy to follow instruction manual, mounting hardware, and the filters themselves. So today I’ll show you how you can easily install both systems.

Getting Started in the Kitchen

In my house, many of the old pipes are galvanized steel. There are areas of my home where the water pressure is lower than others. In some cases, the water can even be a little brown when it turns on. That’s because galvanized steel corrodes and rusts over time which starts to clog the pipes. I’ve replaced many of the water lines in areas of the home I’ve remodeled. Sadly, the trunk lines and supply lines in the kitchen haven’t been remodeled yet and are still galvanized. 

We’ll start with the larger water filtration system for the kitchen, the Max Filter System. It’s a 2 stage system that removes 95% of fluoride, and 99.9% removal of lead, chlorine, volatile organic compounds, toxic chemicals, and heavy metals. The system also leaves essential minerals in your drinking water.

The first step is to clean out the area under the sink that you’ll be working in. We tend to keep a ton of cleaning stuff under there, so get everything out of the way so you have a place to work.

Next you’ll want to find an area to mount the filter bracket. The system comes with attached water lines so find a location that is within reach of the water lines. If you don’t have a space available, you can purchase a longer set of lines to put it elsewhere. Mount the included bracket to the side of the cabinet or wall with the included screws and a drill or screwdriver.

Connecting the Water Lines

From there, turn the valve off for the cold water line at the valve on the wall or at the nearest supply valve for that sink. If you don’t have a valve anywhere, you can shut off the water main for the house if need be. Next turn on the faucet and let the excess water drain from the line. 

From there, disconnect the outlet hose line from the valve body, but leave the other end connected to the faucet. Connect the inlet line for the filter system in its place with some thread tape and an adjustable wrench. The inlet side has a threaded female nut on it and is on the left side as you’re looking at it. If you have different sized outlet lines on your water valves, you may need to purchase an adapter to fit.  

Next, install the outlet hose to the bottom of your supply line running to the faucet. Use a pair of adjustable wrenches to make sure you get a tight seal. From there, turn the water valve back on and check the system for leaks. Once you’ve verified there are no leaks, you’re good to go and you can run 5000 gallons of water before you need to replace the stage 1 filter which should easily last at least a year in the average home. 

My wife and I have used a Brita for clean drinking water but it gets pretty annoying when someone forgets to refill it or you need more than it holds for cooking. At one point, we even had a reverse osmosis system installed. However, you could constantly hear the water running from it because in order for them to work, they waste 4-7 gallons of water per 1 gallon of consumable water they produce. As someone who is environmentally conscious, that isn’t something I’m interested in. With this new water filtration system, we’ve got on demand filtered cold water without additional waste or complex installation. 

Setting up a Smaller System

Next I’m going to show you the PURE 10k In-Line filtration system. The Pure 10k also removes 99.9% of the same contaminants while leaving essential minerals in your drinking water. This system is great for bathrooms or as an in-line filter for a refrigerator water line or similar. 

Installation is similar to the larger unit. First find a spot to mount the included mounting bracket and install it with the included screws. Next turn off the cold water supply line at the valve, turn on the faucet to drain the remaining water in the line. Then disconnect the outlet line at the valve. From there, connect the inlet line on the filter to the cold water valve and connect the other end to the water line for the faucet using thread tape and adjustable wrenches. Lastly, turn the water valve back on, check for leaks, and you’re good to go. 

This system has the capacity to filter 10,000 gallons of water before replacement so it should last a good long time in a small bathroom like this. 

You’re All Set!

So that’s it for this project! I hope it showed you how you can easily get clean drinking water for you and your family. If you’re not sure what type of water your house has, check out this post. It shows how you can easily do a DIY water test to see what potential contaminants are in your water. Then you can see if installing a water filtration system is right for you.

I want to say a quick thank you to Survivor Filter for sending over the filters you saw me install. I absolutely encourage you guys to check out their full line of water filtration systems. Not only do they have these systems for your home, but they also have outdoor and on-the-go systems. They are perfect for backpacking, camping, fishing, hunting, or any outdoor activity that has you on the move. Their in-home products are manufactured here in the United States and made to be environmentally friendly. 

If you liked this project, here are some other water related projects I’ve done. Check them out!

Upgrade a Modern Water Spigot

How to Install a Sprinkler System

How to Install a Bidet

Thanks so much for stopping by and I’ll see you next time!  

It’s no secret that the world has been turned on it’s head early in 2020 as a result of the Coronavirus pandemic. Everyday items have disappeared off the shelves due to hoarding and hysteria. If you’ve tried to buy toilet paper in the last 60 days you know exactly what I’m talking about. So today I’m going to show you how to make the most of a shitty situation and install a bidet.

Click here for the tools and materials used in this project (affiliates) 

1.) Before Installing…

First you’ll need to order a bidet. Luckily, many bidet brands seem to be well stocked online. I picked up this $40 Luxe Bidet off Amazon. The price of bidets can range anywhere from $40 to $1000 depending on how many bells and whistles you want. I’m going to show you how to install this simple one that doesn’t include a heater or dryer. 

First of all, before you get started with this project you need to clean your toilet well. You’re going to get up close and personal with it so might as well take the time to clean it before you get down and dirty with it. Put your hair up and roll up your sleeves. 

2.) Installing Your Bidet

You’ll want to turn the water supply valve off at the base of the toilet. Then, flush the toilet to drain any water from the tank in the back. With the water drained, next you can remove the toilet seat. Do this by popping up the caps to access the mounting screws on the back of the seat. Using a screwdriver, loosen the mounting screws and retaining nuts from the underside of the seat and remove it.

From there, add the adjustment plates to the bidet assembly and place it on the toilet. The adjustment plates can be spun to align the mounting screws for your toilet. Next reinstall the toilet seat on top of the bidet and re-secure it in place with the mounting screws and retaining nuts underneath.

3.) Plumbing the Water Lines

After you install the bidet assembly, it’s time to shift gears to the toilet supply line. Grab a small bucket or container to catch any residual water that’s still in the toilet tank and remove the supply line from the toilet by unthreading it from the fill valve. Next, make sure the rubber gasket that came with the bidet is inserted into the included T-valve. Thread the T-valve onto the toilet fill valve assembly and make sure the outlet is facing towards the front of the toilet.

Once installed, connect the small braided hose that came with your bidet to the back of the bidet control module, and connect the supply line from the shutoff valve to the bottom of the T-valve. You may need to use thread tape to ensure a tight seal. You’ll find a small plastic wrench included with the bidet. You may also need a pair of channel lock pliers to tighten if you experience any leaks. 

Once the water lines are installed, turn the supply valve back on at the wall and fill the tank with water. If there are no leaks, it’s time to test the bidet. If you try to test it without sitting on it, beware that the water is going to launch across the room like a rocket so I recommend you test it when you plan to actually use it.

The first time you use a bidet can be a little jarring so I recommend you keep it on a low setting until you get comfortable. However, once you get used to it, I think you’ll find it difficult to go back to your old bathroom habits!

4.) Finished!

So that’s how you install a bidet! I hope you liked it and I hope you learned something. Installing a bidet is a super easy project to hopefully avoid the hassle of trying to buy TP in this world of crazy we’re all finding ourselves in! I hope you are yours are staying safe and healthy during this pandemic.

Like many people, I am trying to find ways to help out during this crisis and support those on the front lines so I have been 3D printing PPE components for medical professionals and essential personnel that I am sending for free to those in need. If you are able, you can make a small donation to help at this link. 100% of the proceeds will go towards materials, shipping, and production costs to distribute them to those that need them. If you’d like to download the files and print them for yourselves or community, there is a link down below where you can download them for free here.

If you liked this project, you might enjoy these other DIY Plumbing Projects as well:

How to Install a Bathroom Faucet

How to Fix a Garbage Disposal

Thanks for stopping by, I’ll see you next time!

In this DIY project tutorial I’ll walk you through how I installed the tile floor in my jack & jill bathroom and show you all the considerations and planning that needs to be done in order to do a DIY tile floor install. This project will take you a few days so make sure to set aside a weekend or a few days where you can afford to not use the bathroom you’re working on. 

Disclosure: This post contains a paid product placement by The WD40 Company. All views and opinions are my own. 

Preparing the Floor

To get started, first I had to remove the existing floor and prepare it for the new tile floor. This bathroom happened to have an old pink tile floor with a thick mortar bed under it so removing it was a bit of a challenge. I used a combination of a sledgehammer, a hammer drill, and a shovel to pry it up. Once I had the old tile removed, I had to do a little bit of structural work to repair some subfloor damage due to water and termites (cutting out old, rotten areas and replacing with new wood). 

Once the subfloor was repaired, I could get to work on preparing for the new tile. In this case, I installed a ½” cement backer board on top of the subfloor. Make sure your floor is level when preparing your substrate. If it’s not level, consider floating a mortar bed to make it level. There are a lot of options out there to use as a substrate under the tile including cement backer board like I used, floating a mortar bed like the previous floor, or using a newer product like Kerdi Waterproofing membrane. If you plan to add radiant heating in your new flooring, that may affect which type of substrate you choose to use. In this case, I just went with the simple backer board.

Installing the backer board requires cutting the pieces to fit your space, and then attaching it to the subfloor with cement board screws. Once installed, I used some mesh tape and thin set mortar to cover all the seams and create a water resistant surface.

From there I chose to cover the whole floor in a product called Redgard. Redgard is a liquid waterproofing membrane. I had used it for the shower walls and had leftover so I chose to use it on the floor as an added waterproofing barrier.

Tile Layout and Installation

Next I was ready for tile. In my case I chose a hexagonal porcelain tile (I said ceramic in the video) and because of that, I wanted to experiment with the layout to minimize cuts and waste. I find using software like Google Sketchup allows you to input the dimensions of your space to determine the best layout before installing.

To install the tile, I’m mixing up some thinset mortar and applying it to the floor with a notched trowel. The rule of thumb is to use thinset mortar as your tile adhesive in wet areas. For drier areas like a kitchen backsplash, you can use tile adhesive or mastic.

Because this is a larger tile, I’m using a ¼” trowel. Always start away from your access door and work your way out of the room. I notch a work area in the mortar and then use a technique called “back buttering” on each tile before setting them in place. Back buttering involves using a small trowel to apply mortar to the backside of the tile which when pressed into place, creates a solid seal of mortar to secure the tile in place.

For tile spacers, I chose to use these tile alignment spacers. These tiles have 6 sides so this type of spacer helps minimize lippage, which is where one tile is higher than the next. Because of the hexagon shape, I had to use a LOT of them.

I worked my way through the room and when I got to the edges, I used my wet saw to cut the tiles to the necessary size. When it comes to the toilet flange and the curved tub surround, I used a pair of tile nippers to cut a radius in the tiles so that the cut was as clean and close to the curved surfaces as possible.

Once I had worked my way through the entire room, I let the mortar set for 24 hours before coming back in and removing the clips and breaking off the protruding spacers.

Adding Grout

And finally, I’m ready for grout. In this case I’m using a Non-sanded grout because my grout lines are ⅛”. If your grout lines are larger than that you should use Sanded grout. Grout comes in a wide array of colors but I chose to use a grey similar to the floor. I used a rubber grout float to spread it across the floor making sure all the lines were filled and then used a wet sponge to wipe off the excess once it had hazed over.

Lastly, I applied several coats of grout sealant on the floor to create a watertight seal and prevent it from getting dirty. Grout is a porous substance so if you don’t seal it, it can absorb moisture and dirt.

Cleaning and Storing Your Tools

Once you’re finished with your tools, I always recommend you wipe them down with a coat of WD-40. If you don’t do this, your trowels can oxidize as they sit around so next time you go to use them you’ll have to deal with scrubbing off the rust.

If you forgot to clean them off before the mortar has hardened, don’t worry! You can still clean them. Use some WD-40 Trigger Pro to spray on the mortar, and then tap it with a hammer. Then using another trowel or painter’s tool to scrape off the mortar. Then wipe them down with WD40 afterwards.

If you have rusty trowels sitting around, I recommend soaking them in WD-40 Specialist Rust Remover Soak for a while.

Spend the time to keep them in good working order and they’ll last you for many more jobs to come.  

Well that’s it for this project, I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it gave you the confidence to tackle your own DIY bathroom tile project. If you did enjoy this project, here are some others you may enjoy. 

Tile Like a Pro | Tips from an Old World Craftsman

How to Install Hardwood Floors

“I think subway tiles are always a classic hit that will never go out of style.”

What things should homeowners consider when installing new tile in their home?

I think homeowners should consider whether they’re going to want an installation that is going to last a long time or if they’re looking to flip the house. There are always ways to make the cost cheaper when purchasing materials. Most of the time my clients already have an idea of what they want, I usually just direct them where to get it.

You obviously do some high dollar tile design, what are a few tips you’d give the average homeowner who maybe doesn’t have a lot in their budget but wants to up their tile game?

When on a budget, simplicity is key. You could go out and get basic white tile and do something classic with them. I think subway tiles are always a classic look that will never go out of style.

Are there any common mistakes you see homeowners committing when it comes to DIY tile installs? Any absolute “Don’t Do’s” when it comes to tile?

There are a lot of “don’t do’s“ but the biggest would have to be in shower areas that can have water damage. Make sure you do your homework and have good waterproofing or you risk causing serious damage and costing yourself A LOT of extra money.

Can you explain the difference between using thin set mortar vs mastics? Is there a reason to use one over the other?

Mastic (tile adhesives) is designed for areas such as backsplashes where there isn’t a lot of water. In high water contact areas (like a shower/bath) you normally want to use a modified thin set.

“Needless to say if you were to go to Europe and see tile installation that was installed centuries ago it’s all installed on mortar. That’s why I brand myself as an old world craftsman.”

I notice you use mortar to float most of your applications rather than using cement backer board. Can you explain why and what your basic process is for floating?

When floating with mortar, you have the advantage of making an area that isn’t square and plum, square and plum. Also the waterproofing is behind The mud bed as opposed to being right behind the thin set. What that means is if you have to remove a Tile you are not affecting the waterproofing but just hitting at cement. I could go on and on about the benefits of a mortar bed but needless to say if you were to go to Europe and see tile installation that was installed centuries ago it’s all installed on mortar. That’s why I brand myself as an old world craftsman.

“There is nothing more satisfying than to be able to install what you imagined and it coming out great. It’s so satisfying.”

What’s your favorite part of your tile projects (designing, installation, etc.)? Why?

I think at this point Design is very fun for me. Getting to design a bathroom or kitchen backsplash is so enjoyable for me. But there is nothing more satisfying than to be able to install what you imagined and it coming out great. It’s so satisfying.

Meet the Pro:

Adam Esparza is a second generation tile contractor that has over 15 years experience and takes great pride in the art and customization of his trade. As a teenager he was his Uncle’s apprentice and he and his Dad installed the “old world” way using mortar. Adam started ALE Tile Co. in 2013 after realizing the corporate world was not for him. He says that he feels he “was meant to be a self-employed artist.”

ALE Tile Co. specializes in custom tile work in the greater Orange County, CA area. Using old world techniques paired with modern technology, he works hard to ensure your finished product is not only exactly what you’re looking for, but one that will stand the test of time. He works with you to individualize and design each project & does it the right way so you can feel confident knowing you’ve gotten the quality of work you’re looking for.

For more Tiling tips from Adam, listen to our full podcast episode: How to Tile Like a Pro

Follow ALE Tile Co. on Instagram @aletile

All images in this post are attributable and subject to copyright by ALE Tile Co. and are used with permission.

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