You only get one chance to make a first impression! It’s true in all aspects of life including your front door. Unfortunately when it came to our house, the front entryway was looking pretty drab and gross. Not to worry, I tackled a full DIY Entryway Overhaul complete with front Door Restoration and new hardware with the help from my friends from Minwax and Schlage! If you’re interested in watching the whole entry transformation, check out the full video here.

This project contains paid product integrations from Minwax and Schlage Locks. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

The Issue:

The various shades of brown paint on the doors and surrounding area really don’t stand out against the beige brick that features on the majority of the house. Also, the solid wood doors have been painted over umpteen times and have lost their character.

The Goal:

The goal of the project is to bring some visual interest to the front entryway with sharp contrast against the beige brick, and a combination of tones and textures.

Step 1: Paint (the Walls)

I think when it comes to painting, there’s not much to say. Pretty self explanatory, right? Well there are a few helpful tips that I can share about painting to make your life easier.

1. 1.  Make sure you choose the right nap for your roller! Nap refers to the length of the fibers on the roller. A higher Nap means longer fibers so it is better suited to get into the nooks and crannies of a rougher surface. A lower nap number means it’s better suited for a smoother surface. For this project I’m using a 3/4″ nap for the rough walls and a 1/4″ nap for the smooth trim pieces.
   2. Taping – I’m not a huge fan of using a lot of tape for a couple reasons. #1 is that it creates a lot of waste to deal with, and #2 is it tends to give people a false sense of security and lets you be sloppy. However, a lot of tapes bleed under the edge and you end up having to fix it later anyway, adding a lot of time to the project. I use Frog Tape mostly and make sure to wet the edge of the tape when I put it up which activates their edge lock adhesive and gives much cleaner tape lines.

Step 2: Strip Paint On the Doors

There’s no secret in saying that restoring old doors is a lot of work and not the most fun one can have on a weekend! However, replacing wooden doors can also be extremely expensive so if you can spare the time and don’t mind a little hard work, you can get beautiful results. The first step is to use paint stripper. Add a generous coat(s) and let it sit for about 15 minutes and then come back through with a good, solid metal scraper and take your time peeling the layers off. You may have to do it several times depending on the amount of paint on the doors. Wear your gloves, eye protection, and a good respirator because this stuff can be noxious!

Step 3: Sand the Doors

After stripping, it’s not uncommon to feel like you’ve really made a mistake. It will likely look horrible! But don’t worry, get out a sander with some 80 grit paper and get to work. You’ll quickly start to see the raw wood and start to feel better about your decision. Work your way up through the grits until at least 220 grit. (I usually go 80 grit, 120 grit, and 220 grit)

Pay close attention to the details. The more detail your door has, the harder it’s going to be. It can be pretty tricky to get into those spaces but I recommend getting a small wire brush, sanding sponges, and utilizing paint stripper as much as possible to make your life easier. It takes time, there’s no way around that!

Step 4: (Pre) Stain the Doors

Choosing the right stain products for your doors is important. I like to use Oil-Based products on any outdoor project because it provides a more durable, harder finish over the longterm than its water-based counterpart. DON’T MIX AND MATCH oil and water-based. I also always like to use a quality Minwax Oil-based pre-stain conditioner. The pre-stain conditioner evens out the wood to create a more uniform stain look and remove any unsightly blotching that can sometimes occur. It’s especially important on old doors that have previously had other finishes previously applied. I applied it with a cheap chip brush and let it set up for about 30 minutes before staining.

For this project I chose the Minwax Oil-based Early American stain for the doors. I thought it gave a nice, warm contrast to the green and tan trim we chose for our color scheme. For staining, I also used a chip brush and followed it up with a rag to wipe off any excess after it sat on the wood for a few minutes. For more staining tips, check out this previous project article.

Step 5: Seal the Doors

A quality top coat can be a make or break step for restoring doors. In professional setups, they have a dedicated spray booth to get the best quality application possible. But you’re not a pro so just do your best. You can still get a great finish. I chose to use the Minwax Oil-based Helmsman Spar Urethane on these doors. It’s a great, durable finish that will provide years of UV and weather protection. I applied it with a brand new, high quality bristle brush in the direction of the wood grain and allowed it to set up according to the dry time on the can. Then I sanded the doors lightly with 400 grit paper and applied another coat. Then I repeated that process again for a solid 3 coat application.

Step 6: Update the Hardware

Lastly, to get a modern/rustic vibe, it’s time to update the hardware on the doors. I used the Century Matte Black Hardware and Century Touch Deadbolt from my friends at Schlage Locks.These doors required a little updating in order to install the new hardware which included installing a new patch in the old strike plate area and chiseling it out so it has a nice finished look. If you want to learn more about how to fix your old doors to install new hardware and update strike plates, make sure you check out this video where I walk you through the whole process! 

So that’s it for this project! I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it inspires you to tackle a door project you may have been too nervous to take on! 

If you’re interested in learning more about staining and/or restoring old furniture and household items, check out these other articles.

Restoring a 100 Year Old Tool Chest

How to Refinish Wood Furniture

Step 1: Identify the Problem

The first step is to figure out what’s causing the problem. Is it a leaky flapper? A busted fill valve? Is the flapper chain just stuck? Or did your toddler throw their toy down the toilet again? Take a deep breath and lift the lid off the tank. SOME toilets have different mechanisms but for the sake of this project we’ll assume you have a traditional fill valve/ flapper combination.

Check the Flapper

The flapper is the little rubber thingy that controls the water flow from the tank to the bowl. It’s usually connected to the flush lever with a chain. Sometimes the fix is as simple as freeing the chain from whatever it is stuck on. If the rubber flapper is damaged or worn, it can cause the toilet to run. Don’t worry, this is an easy fix. First you’ll need to shut off the water at the valve on the wall behind the toilet. Next, just remove the old flapper and replace it with a new one. There are a few different mounting types so make sure you check how it mounts on the hinge side. Often times ones that say “Universal” don’t match the universe you’re living in! Once you replace it, turn the water back on and give it few test flushes to make sure it’s still not leaking.

Inspect the Fill Valve

“Okay, what’s a fill valve?” The fill valve is responsible for refilling the toilet tank with water after you flush. If it’s not working properly, it can cause the toilet to run continuously. Usually a fill valve has a float on it which triggers the water to turn on and off. If the float is stuck down or damaged, the water won’t know when to shut off. To check it, lift the float mechanism up and down (with the water on). If the float is in the down/lowest position, it should call for water. It should shut off at its upper position. (You can adjust the height of the fill valve float on most assemblies) Flush the toilet and test the float and also listen for any hissing sounds that aren’t caused by running water. If you hear anything unusual, it’s time to replace the fill valve.

Check for Leaks

If the flapper and fill valve are working properly, it’s time to check for leaks. Add a few drops of food coloring to the back of the tank and wait for 30 minutes. If the water in the bowl changes color (without flushing), that means there’s a leak somewhere in the tank assembly or bowl. That may require removing the tank off the toilet base and doing some further inspection for worn seals/gaskets.

Make the Repairs (DIY, Baby!)

Now that you’ve identified the problem, it’s time to make the necessary repairs. Whether it’s replacing the flapper or the fill valve, or fixing a leak, you got this. You’re a DIY master! And if all else fails, it’s time to call in the big guns – a professional plumber. But seriously, you got this. Here’s how you can do it.

How to Replace a Toilet Fill Valve

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

At the wall there should be a water shutoff valve of some kind. It may be a modern quarter turn, or an older shutoff of some kind. Make sure you turn off the water supply before moving to the next step.

Step 2: Flush the Toilet and Disconnect the Supply Hose

The water supply hooks to the toilet with a flexible water line. Use your hand or a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the water line from where it is attached to the toilet. (This is the bottom of the fill valve) Keep a bucket or towel nearby to catch any water that didn’t drain from the toilet tank or water line when it was disconnected.

Step 3: Remove the Retaining Nut

Most of the time there is a retaining nut and flexible washer holding the fill valve in place (right by where the water line attached). Use the pliers if you have to to loosen the nut and remove the nut from the bottom (the rubber washer is usually inside the tank and will lift out with the assembly). Some water from the tank may come out of the hole in the bottom. This is normal as the tank rarely empties fully on a flush. The fill valve assembly should now be loose.

Step 4: Lift the Fill Valve Assembly from the Tank

Disconnect any additional flexible hoses from inside the tank and lift out the fill valve assembly. It should come out easily. If not, double check you’ve removed any locking nuts.

Step 5: Replace with New Fill Valve Assembly

The new fill valve assembly should go right back into the same spot and install in the reverse order of the removal. Follow the instructions on your new valve to adjust the float height, and determine how much water to use per flush. Most adjust easily with a retaining clip or by twisting the riser up or down.

Step 6: Re-Connect the Water Line

Reinstall the locking nut on the underside of the toilet tank, making sure the rubber gasket is installed on the bottom of the new assembly. Make sure the fill valve assembly is not turned against the inside of the tank and it can move properly up and down. Then secure the lock nut and washer in place. Reconnect the water supply line and turn on the water to test and make sure everything works properly.

Step 7: Enjoy Your Throne!

This part is pretty self explanatory.

There you have it, a DIY guide on how to diagnose and fix a running toilet. Don’t let a little running water ruin your day. You can fix this yourself. Good luck!

Like this content? Check out more DIY Plumbing tips below!

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Who hasn’t thought about picking up that dated piece of wood furniture and bringing it new life? Is it worth it? In this article I’ll show you how to refinish wood furniture and breathe new life into it. I’ll show you my process for how I go about refinishing wood furniture.

This project contains a paid product integration from Minwax. All opinions are herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Step #1: SAND!

I know what you’re thinking, “I hate sanding!”. I know. Trust me, so do I. However, if you want to have a quality finish when it’s all said and done, you have to do a good job with your prep. Depending on the piece of furniture you’re working with and the finish you are planning to add on top of the current, this could either be fast or incredibly painstaking. If you’re going to be painting over the current finish, a light sand is probably enough. However, if you’re going to be re-staining, it’s best to get down to the raw wood and that takes time and effort.

I always start with 80-grit and remove as much of the old clear coat and stain as possible. Once I’ve got most of the material removed, then I’ll move on to 120-grit before doing another pass at 220-grit. 220-grit is sufficient for most finishes but I’ll occasionally go up to 400-grit on tabletops and desks.

Paint vs Stain

Paint:

• Painting requires less sanding. Often times just scuffing up the existing finish is adequate to prep the surface.
• Always use a quality primer over the existing finish before adding your new paint finish.

Stain:

• Requires more prep work and sanding. Often sanding all surfaces down to 220 grit and removing any existing stain.
• Occasionally you can stain a darker color over a lighter color without as much sanding.

STEP #2: Pre-Condition

With the majority of the sanding out of the way you’re ready for a new finish….almost! Don’t overlook a quality pre-conditioner if you’re going to be using a stain. ESPECIALLY if you’re refinishing a piece of furniture made out of a soft wood (pine, alder, etc). If you’re going to be staining a soft wood (and even some hardwoods), get in the habit of using a pre-conditioner. For this project, I used Minwax Water Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Pre-conditioning helps even out stains so you don’t end up with blotchy spots. Pre-conditioner can also help with spots you may not have been able to fully remove the old finish. It just helps even out the finish and is a great habit to get into using.

Step #3: Choosing a Stain

Choosing the right stain is essential for the success of your finished product. There are a bunch of variables to consider including the final color of the piece. One of the biggest things to consider is:

Oil-Based vs Water-Based:

Oil-Based:

• Pro: Oil based finishes are typically more durable
• Pro: Oil based finishes usually don’t raise grain require additional sanding
• Con: Oil based have longer drying time and heavy odors
• Con: Oil based are less eco-friendly and require solvents/thinners to clean up

Water Based: 

• Pro: Water-based are easy to work with and clean up
• Pro: Water-based stains are UV resistant
• Pro: Water-based stains are more forgiving and easily fixed if a mistake is made
• Pro: Fast dry time and low odor
• Con: Water-based often raises grain in wood projects requiring sanding between coats
• Con: Water-based are not as durable as oil-based

Choosing the proper finish is largely a matter of preference and what is available. Typically water-based is more forgiving for the average DIY because it requires less patience between coats, and is typically easier to work with.

In this case I’m using the new color stains from Minwax, specifically Minwax Semi-Transparent Color Stain in the color Royal Pine. These stains come in both a solid color and semi-transparent color. The solid color is more like a paint in that it doesn’t show as much wood grain. The semi-transparent allows more wood grain to show through the finish color. What’s really unique about these stains is that you can tint them to over 240+ colors!

Step #4: Applying the Stain

Each stain and finish varies a little bit in its suggested application. Make sure you take the time to read the label on your stain or finish to make sure you are applying it correctly. Some stains suggest a foam brush or rag while others recommend a specific type of brush for best application. Check out this other article to dive into the differences between spraying, brushing, and wiping on. Other things to consider are making sure you are in a well ventilated space and making sure you are staining/finishing in the proper temperature window for your finish. Again, this should all be outlined on the packaging of your stain/finish

Step #5: Sealing or Top Coating

Typically when you’re finished staining a piece of furniture, you’ll want to apply a top coat/clear coat for protection and/or shine. Typical finishes for clear coats are Satin, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss. These are just a matter of personal preference for your project. There are a large variety of finishes for your top coat typically in the form of a “urethane”.

Make sure you choose one based on the location of the finished product (indoor/outdoor), and in the sheen you want for your project. Also, you CAN apply an oil-based polyurethane or similar over top of a water based stain. However, this requires that your water-based stain is COMPLETELY dry and cured. I DO NOT recommend applying a water based finish over an oil-based stain. I used Minwax One Coat Polyurethane.

Waxing 

Occasionally I may use a paste wax as the final finish instead of or in addition to a polyurethane finish. The wax also offers protection to the furniture/finish but it doesn’t harden to the consistency of a urethane top coat. You can apply a paste wax over a urethane finish pending you add it in thin layers and buff between each. Keep in mind that the wax may alter the sheen of your urethane finish.

Step #6: Be Patient

Refinishing a piece of furniture is a lot of work and not for the faint of heart. But if it was easy you wouldn’t be able to find these old wooden pieces for free or cheap. It takes time to get the finish you want. After all, they don’t make them like they used to!

If you enjoyed this content, please check out some of these other articles you might enjoy.

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Restoring a Backyard Playset

It’s no secret that gas prices have been through the roof lately. That has motivated a lot more people to consider transitioning to an electric vehicle. My wife and I have had a Tesla Model 3 for a few years now and I personally love the car. Today I’m going to show you how to install an electric vehicle (Tesla) charger in your home in the event you decide to go electric. 

Disclaimer:

As with every video I do that involves electricity, I want to warn you that working with your electrical panel carries risk of injury or death and that I am not a licensed electrician. However, I have a lot of experience working with residential electricity and am comfortable in my abilities to operate with it safely. I’m merely showing you what is involved, and if at any time you are not comfortable doing anything I’m demonstrating in this video, please call a professional. There’s no sense in you injuring yourself or others just to save a few bucks. With that being said, let’s dive in. 

What You’ll Need

For this install we are going to be using some electrical conduit, some 8ga stranded wire, a 40amp dual pole breaker, a 4” electrical box, some screws or toggle bolts, some electrical tools including a fish tape and wire strippers/cutters, and a NEMA 50amp 220v plug.  

The Tesla Model 3 can handle up to a 50amp circuit to charge the vehicle. However, I am using a 40amp breaker with 8 ga wire because 8 ga wire is easier to pull through conduit than 6ga wire. The lower the gauge of the wire, the thicker it is and the more amperage it can accommodate. Here’s a basic amperage rating for the various thicknesses of wiring you’ll typically find in your home. 

I’ve also done this in the past using a 30 amp circuit and 10 ga wire. The car will charge either way. However, the larger the circuit, the faster it will charge. 

The first thing we’re going to do is turn the power off at the panel. Keep in mind that will kill all the power in the house and all the circuits. However, it doesn’t stop the power from coming in to the panel. Make sure you still work carefully and avoid the main leads coming into the panel. 

Checking Your Breaker Panel

You’ll need to make sure your panel has space to accommodate the breaker for the charger. I happen to know I have a few unused breakers in the panel from previously installed things. So I am going to repurpose a breaker that was previously used for an old electric oven. When selecting a breaker, you need to make sure that your new breaker matches the breaker style for your panel. I used a Square D panel which is usually written somewhere on the panel itself. 

Running Electrical Conduit

Next we’re going to install our box where we want it to be by screwing it to the wall on a stud or using toggle bolt anchors. From there we can start to install our conduit. I’m using schedule 40 PVC conduit because it’s easier to work with. However, I wanted to use 1” diameter conduit but it wasn’t in stock at the time so I went with ¾”. I’d recommend using the 1” conduit so that it’s easier to pull the wiring through. 

Installing the conduit will depend on your location. In this case I’m going up the wall, through a dividing wall into different portion of the garage, and then connecting to the panel. Using a pair of PVC cutters and a tape measure makes this part pretty simple. When you get to a corner, you can use one of these 90° junctions. Once you have the majority of the conduit run, connect it to your panel box by removing one of the panel knockouts and connecting it with a connection and nut. I recommend dry fitting all the pieces and making sure everything looks good before going back and gluing up your connections. 

Pulling Your Wiring

Now comes the fun part of pulling your wiring. The thicker your wiring, the more twists and turns you have, and the smaller your conduit, the harder it will be to pull. That’s why I recommend using the 1” conduit and the 8ga stranded wire. Stranded wire is essential to be able to pull. I’ll be pulling 4 wires. A red and a black, which will be the hot wires, (110v’s each which add up to 220v) a neutral wire, and a ground wire. Feed the wire fish tape through the conduit until it pops out the other side. It doesn’t necessarily matter which direction you pull from. I opted to pull away from the panel towards the end box. Once your fish tape is popped out the other end, you have to attach your wire to it. It involves stripping back a bunch of the wiring, twisting it together, and making everything as small as possible. You also don’t want to be shy about taping the hell out of it. You’re going to be wrenching on it pretty good and you don’t want to have it come apart halfway through your conduit run. 

I screwed up in this case because I tried to pull the whole lengthall at once. If you have a 90° junction anywhere in your run, this is going to be really hard to do. I should’ve started pulling from the 90°, got the wire to this point, and then unhooked everything and started over for the rest of the way. I ended up doing anyway but it was more difficult than it should have been. 

Once I pulled it all the way through to the box, I made sure I had about 8” sticking out of the box after cutting off the waste from the fish tape.

Connecting to the Panel

Back at the panel you need to make sure to give yourself plenty of length in the wiring to keep it tidy around the outside edges of the panel box. I happened to notice someone previously installed some wiring in this box where the ground crosses over in front of some of the breakers because they didn’t leave enough length. That’s a big no no and something I’ll have to fix. 

Make sure you have enough slack in the wiring to make the connections at the neutral and ground bar, and to your new breaker for the hot wires. Once you know you have enough length, cut off the excess. 

Connect the white neutral wire to the neutral bar in the panel. Then connect the ground wire to the ground bar. Next connect each of the hot wires to each of the connections on the bottom of the breaker itself. It doesn’t matter which one goes to which. Make sure they’re stripped to the right length and tighten them down securely. Then place the breaker into its location in the panel and snap it into place. 

Connecting the Receptacle

From there we’ll go back to the other end and make the connections on the receptacle. I’m using the 50amp receptacle but you can use different receptacles and Tesla adapters depending on your setup. The 2 hot wires (the red and black) get mounted to each of the brass terminals on the receptacle while the white gets connected to the silver terminal screw and the ground connects to the green terminal. Make sure everything is tightened securely and fold the wires back into the box and screw the receptacle in place. 

Next, I’m going to close up the electrical panel and turn the power back on at the main breaker. Then I’ll turn on my newly installed breaker to test out the circuit before I put the cover on the box. 

Once I plug everything in, it looks like everything is working as it should. Lastly I’m going to just add a cover to the box and install this little charger mount and cable management rack I found on Amazon. 

Finished Charger

And that’s it! I now have an electrical vehicle charger set up in the garage. You can charge the car off a normal 110v outlet but it takes a really long time to charge. If you drive a lot, it might not be sufficient for you. This way the car charges relatively quickly and you can top off anytime you’re at home. 

Thanks very much for checking out this video and I hope you learned something about installing a 220-240v circuit. This process can be used for more than just electrical vehicles. The install is pretty similar for other 220v circuits like large electric appliances, heaters, welders, shop tools, etc. Once you get used to understanding circuit and wiring sizes, etc you’re not really limited to what you can do. 

Thanks for checking out this project! Check out some of my other DIY Home electrical projects.

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Garage Heater Installation | A DIY Guide

Sometimes you just get lucky! That’s what happened when my brother and I stumbled upon this old backyard playset for FREE! Sure it needs a little TLC, but that’s not a problem. In this article I’m going to show you the steps of restoring a backyard playset so it’s as good as new!

This project contains a paid product integration from Thompson’s WaterSeal. All opinions herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

While I was home in New York a few weeks ago, my brother got a lead on a free playset from a few friends. Their kids have long outgrown it. They were planning to toss it so we offered to come pick it up and haul it away. Apart from it being pretty weathered, all the major components were still intact. So we hitched up the trailer and hauled it back to my brother’s house.

Assembling the Playset

After about 45 minutes of assembly (and some heavy lifting), the playset was back together and we got a good sense of how much work it needed to be restored. Fortunately, apart from the wood being really weathered and the finish needing to be replaced, it was in decent shape. Nothing major was missing and they had the original roof panels too!

The wood frame of the playset hasn’t been sealed or kept up with for quite a few years so it was pretty clear it was in need of a good sealant. The wood was weathered through and the finish had been completely worn off in some spots. Fortunately there weren’t any major areas of rot or cracking that needed to be replaced.

Sealing & Restoring the Playset

We wanted to stain the playset so it looked pretty close to the original finish. We found the Autumn Brown Semi-Transparent Stain and Sealer at Lowe’s and thought it’d be a perfect fit for this project. The first thing I did was go around the playset and used a putty knife to just knock off any old flaking finish and scraped off any dirt that had accumulated on it.

From there, my brother and I tag teamed the whole playset making sure to cover every inch with the new stain and sealant. We used a combination of a brush and a roller to cover the whole thing.

Another great feature of the stain & sealant we chose is that it is a single coat application. No need to go over it a second time which saves a lot of time. The stain & sealer went on simple and smooth. It covered the discolored areas easily and completely blended it to make it look like a seamless finish. It provides ultimate protection from water and sun damage, giving it long-lasting, durable protection.

We used about half of the gallon container to finish the whole playset. Cleaning up was super easy with just some warm water because it’s a water based product.

Finished Product

We were super happy with how the playset came back to life. Restoring a backyard playset like this is a super easy project. You’d never know it wasn’t new by looking at it! For less than $50 and a couple hours of work, we were able to give the kids an awesome new place to play. The kids absolutely loved it!

I would call this project a serious score! Now if only every project was this easy!

If you liked this project, here are a few other lawn & garden projects and tutorials you might enjoy.

And Click here for more Thompson’s WaterSeal project ideas and inspiration. 

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Paint is one of those things that can make a huge difference in a remodel! And fortunately, it’s one of those things that can be done by most homeowners. However, just because most people CAN do it, doesn’t mean most people do it WELL. In this project tutorial I’ll share with you my 10 DIY Tips to Paint Like a Pro that can help you knock out your next pain project smoothly and professionally.

Follow along with the video above for more detail on each tip.

This project contains affiliate links to the The Home Depot. All opinions are herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

#1. Preparation is Essential

Doing adequate preparation is one of those tasks that is essential to a quality result. However, it’s also one of the easiest things to overlook because it takes quite a bit of time. Adequate prep can and should probably take as long or longer than painting itself.

Preparation involves: Patching nail holes and cracks, caulking gaps, protecting floors & furniture, masking, and using drops cloths or plastic to shield off the room from other areas of the house.

#2. Minimize Plastics or Use Thicker/Larger Pieces

This is more of a personal preference than anything but it drives me nuts to see how much plastic people throw away on a simple painting job. I’m a bit of an environmentalist so if I can minimize waste on a project I tend to try to do whatever I can to make it happen. That means I always use 6 mil or thicker plastic and I always try to use it in large sheets so I can save it after the project. I also try to use drop cloths, cardboard, or tarps as much as possible instead of buying additional plastics.

#3. Get the Right Tools

Just because you are a DIYer doesn’t mean you should do things super cheap. You’re saving a lot of money on labor by tackling your own paint project; however, that doesn’t mean you have to make it hard on yourself. If you don’t already have the right tools for the job, go and get them! Either rent or buy the right tools to make your life easier. You’ll be glad that you spent a little extra to save yourself a headache.

#4: Primer Is Your Friend

A quality primer is your best friend and shouldn’t be skipped. If you’re in an older home you may be going over an oil based (or hopefully not lead) paint. Without a quality primer, a water based paint will peel right off without adhesion. Using primer will help create a secure bond between raw wood, previously painted surfaces, raw drywall, etc. Not to mention that primer is cheaper than paint and adding a coat of primer typically cuts down on the amount of paint you’ll need to apply.

#5: Don’t Cheap Out on Painter’s Tape

I try not to rely heavily on painter’s tapes for a few reasons. #1.) It’s wasteful (and I’m a bit of a hippie) and #2.) It lulls you into a false sense of security and encourages you to get sloppy. When using tapes, I always like to reach for FrogTape over the traditional Blue tape. It adheres better and creates a tight seal on the edges keeping the paint from getting a muddied/blotchiness when you peel it off. If you have to touch up all the edges after you’ve peeled the tape off then it hasn’t saved you any time. Use it sparingly and…

#6: Learn to Cut In Properly

Follow along with the video to see what I mean by this. I place the heel of the brush about an inch from the cut edge and then fan the brush towards the cut edge until I get there. Then I go up and down along the edge with the knife edge of the brush and feather the finish out a few inches away from the cut edge. (Makes more sense if you just watch the video)

#7. Roll Towards the Roller Handle

Always roll in the direction of the roller handle. The handle side applies pressure (and thus paint) to the wall. As it goes outwards towards the end, the pressure is diminished meaning it feathers the finish naturally. This will help you get nice feathered finishes without paint lines. Work in about 24″ sections at a time going up and down the wall.

#8. Label Your Paint Cans

If you have any leftover paint at the end of a job, make sure you label the room you used it for. It’s not always easy to remember which paint is which when you’re digging through paint cans in the shed. Labeling your paint cans helps you keep things organized. You can also take a picture of the label or write down the name of the paint shade on the label as well. Over time the ink from the store labels fades away so if you have to buy more of that shade, it can be hard to remember the name. Writing it down or having a picture reference helps immensely.

#9. Clean Your Brushes (and Rollers) Properly

Follow along with the video to see how I like to clean (and store) my brushes. To do it properly, I like to use a painter’s tool or brush comb and work away from the handle. Tilt the brush away from you in the sink or running water and let the water run towards the bristle ends. Use the comb to work between the fibers until everything runs clear and the brush fibers move freely. Store the brush in the original packaging or make a newspaper sleeve to keep them lasting a long time.

#10. Re-Use Your Materials

Not only am I a bit of a hippie, but I’m also cheap! Re-using materials can save you a lot of money! I like to store all my paint supplies in large tubs so I always have my stuff in one place. If you clean things well you can re-use almost everything from one job to the next which will save you a ton of money in the long run.

So that’s it for this tutorial! I hope you enjoyed these 10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro and hope they help you get a killer result on your next DIY painting project. If you liked it, please leave a comment on the video and let me know. Or feel free to share it with a friend who might find it helpful.

You might also like some of these Tips & Tricks.

The DOs & DON’Ts of DIY Spray Foam Insulation

Top 5 Home Improvement Hacks

I’ve come across spray foam insulation being used by many DIYers in just about every way imaginable BUT just because you can use it for a variety of purposes, it doesn’t necessarily mean that you should! Today I’m going to share with you the ways that I use spray foam insulation in my remodeling projects and some applications where I don’t recommend it, or think a better solution is required. 

This project contains a paid product integration from Loctite and affiliate links to the The Home Depot. All opinions are herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

DO: Use Window & Door Foam to Seal Around Rough Openings

Whenever I’m installing windows and doors, the rough openings are always slightly larger than the window or door itself. That means you’re always left with a small gap that can create drafts, air loss, or be an avenue for pests to find their way in. In this case, you should definitely use the window and door spray foam. The window and door foam expands at low pressure compared to other types so you won’t risk bending or bowing the door or window jambs causing problems with their operation. 

DON’T: Use to Address Structural Cracks in Foundations or Concrete

Next, let’s talk about cracks. Not all cracks are created equal. For example, if I come across a crack in a foundation, spray foam insulation wouldn’t be my go-to fix. Foundation cracks can be superficial, or they may be structural so understanding the problem is essential to creating the right fix. I would never use spray foam to address a structural problem like a foundation crack. The same goes for most cracks in concrete including sidewalks, driveways, patios, etc. 

DO: Use to Air Seal Attics & Crawlspaces

One of the best uses for spray foam applications is to use it for air sealing. When I recently replaced the insulation in my attic, I first went through and sealed all the visible cracks and penetrations I could see in the attic before adding the blown in insulation on top. Filling any voids with spray foam makes sure you have a tight envelope between your living space and the attic. I climbed around in the dark in my attic and looked for light leaks from below and filled those areas. The same can be said for crawl spaces beneath the house that can be spots where air loss occurs. 

DON’T: Use to Address Issues with Improper Framing or as a Wood Substitute 

One of the biggest no-no’s I have seen from DIYers is using spray foam to fill structural gaps in framing. I’ve opened some walls and found that people sometimes will mis-cut a piece of lumber and rather than recutting it the proper size, they just slap it in place and fill the gap with spray foam. You might be surprised how often this happens especially in DIY flip houses. Just because something looks decent on the outside doesn’t always mean it looks great underneath. Don’t use spray foam to fill any structural gaps as it’s not a structurally rated product. 

DO: Use On Small Penetrations to Seal Out Insects and Pests

I have a really old house so there are a lot of unseen areas where there are small holes or cracks. I typically find them after I have some unwanted visitors in the house. Probably my favorite application for spray foam is to fill those areas to seal out ants, spiders, and other insects. Typically with ants I can follow their trail to see where they are coming in from outside and then use spray foam to fill those areas. Now if the hole or penetration is larger, like something a mouse or a rat can get through, I don’t recommend using spray foam UNLESS you add some wire mesh to the area first. Larger pests like that can sometimes chew their way through the foam and get back in. 

DON’T: Use to Fill In Eave & Soffit Areas that Effect Attic Ventilation

Another area to be careful of is using spray foam in eaves and soffits. These are common trouble areas for bees nests and many homeowners elect to spray foam to seal out the bees. However, you always want to be careful that you’re not interfering with your home’s ability to breathe properly. Some homes have vented eaves and soffits that allow your attic to vent properly and by filling in these areas, your attic space can’t vent properly. If it’s one trouble spot it’s not a big deal but be conscious if you find yourself sealing larger areas. 

DO: Use to Seal Around Electrical and Plumbing Penetrations (Code Permitting)

Electrical and plumbing penetrations into a home is another great use for spray foam. However, it’s important to make sure a fire rated foam isn’t required by code in your area. I always like to seal around exterior electrical boxes and any plumbing pipe penetrations around the perimeter of my house because these are really common points of drafts as well as can act as super highways for critters coming in and out of your house. 

DON’T: Use to Seal Water Leaks in Plumbing

Another huge fail for spray foam is people using it to try and stop leaks. Rather than fixing the underlying issue, I have seen some homes where people have attempted to stop a leak from a pipe or water line with spray foam. Please don’t use spray foam for this. Most of the time all it does is create a larger issue down the road. It won’t solve the problem and will most likely result in larger damage taking place once the water finds a way out. Depending on the application, the foam can actually allow the water to build up which can lead to serious mold problems so do yourself a favor and if you’re experiencing any kind of water leak, avoid using spray foam as a bandaid. 

DO: Use in Moderation! 

My last tip is just that use spray foam in MODERATION. People have a tendency to spray things and trying to find extra uses for it and end up using the whole can before the nozzle gets all plugged up and they can’t use the can anymore. Trust me, I know that can be frustrating. BUT here’s what I would recommend instead. Use the can in moderation and only use as much as you need. Remember that these products expand somewhat exponentially. As far as reusing the can, I recommend that you just buy a bunch of extra straws. You can snag a whole pack online for just a few $$ and keeps you from wasting a bunch of money on new cans. 

So that’s it for this article! If enjoyed it, please consider subscribing to my YouTube channel so you never miss out on any of the new content I post. 

Thank you to Loctite for making this video possible and allowing me to share how to properly use spray foam. If you guys do need some spray foam for your next project, I encourage you to check out their products which you can find at your local Home Depot. 

If you found this article helpful, here are some other articles you may enjoy! 

5 DIY Ways to Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

Warm Your Home & LOWER Your Heat Bill

Having clean water is essential for you and your family’s health and everyday tasks. Many people don’t know what contaminants are present in their drinking water. It could be anything from bacteria, to lead or corrosion from old pipes. Maybe something just makes your drinking water taste a little funky. Installing a water filtration system in your home can go a long way to adding peace of mind to you and your family. You should be confidant you’re drinking the highest quality water possible on a daily basis. Today, I’m going to help you do just that!

Disclosure: This project contains a paid product placement by Survivor Filter who generously supplied the filtration systems you’ll be seeing me install today. Get 15% OFF a Survivor Filter In-Home System at the link above or using the code MRFIXITDIY at checkout. Survivor Filter carries a wide range of water filters whether you’re at home or on the go so you can quickly transform water from contaminated to clean in a matter of minutes. All opinions are my own. 

What’s great about the Survivor Filter options is that they have both larger sized systems for use in higher usage areas like kitchens, and smaller systems for use in less used areas like bathroom sinks. It’s also great that their in-home products are manufactured here in the United States. Each system comes with an easy to follow instruction manual, mounting hardware, and the filters themselves. So today I’ll show you how you can easily install both systems.

Getting Started in the Kitchen

In my house, many of the old pipes are galvanized steel. There are areas of my home where the water pressure is lower than others. In some cases, the water can even be a little brown when it turns on. That’s because galvanized steel corrodes and rusts over time which starts to clog the pipes. I’ve replaced many of the water lines in areas of the home I’ve remodeled. Sadly, the trunk lines and supply lines in the kitchen haven’t been remodeled yet and are still galvanized. 

We’ll start with the larger water filtration system for the kitchen, the Max Filter System. It’s a 2 stage system that removes 95% of fluoride, and 99.9% removal of lead, chlorine, volatile organic compounds, toxic chemicals, and heavy metals. The system also leaves essential minerals in your drinking water.

The first step is to clean out the area under the sink that you’ll be working in. We tend to keep a ton of cleaning stuff under there, so get everything out of the way so you have a place to work.

Next you’ll want to find an area to mount the filter bracket. The system comes with attached water lines so find a location that is within reach of the water lines. If you don’t have a space available, you can purchase a longer set of lines to put it elsewhere. Mount the included bracket to the side of the cabinet or wall with the included screws and a drill or screwdriver.

Connecting the Water Lines

From there, turn the valve off for the cold water line at the valve on the wall or at the nearest supply valve for that sink. If you don’t have a valve anywhere, you can shut off the water main for the house if need be. Next turn on the faucet and let the excess water drain from the line. 

From there, disconnect the outlet hose line from the valve body, but leave the other end connected to the faucet. Connect the inlet line for the filter system in its place with some thread tape and an adjustable wrench. The inlet side has a threaded female nut on it and is on the left side as you’re looking at it. If you have different sized outlet lines on your water valves, you may need to purchase an adapter to fit.  

Next, install the outlet hose to the bottom of your supply line running to the faucet. Use a pair of adjustable wrenches to make sure you get a tight seal. From there, turn the water valve back on and check the system for leaks. Once you’ve verified there are no leaks, you’re good to go and you can run 5000 gallons of water before you need to replace the stage 1 filter which should easily last at least a year in the average home. 

My wife and I have used a Brita for clean drinking water but it gets pretty annoying when someone forgets to refill it or you need more than it holds for cooking. At one point, we even had a reverse osmosis system installed. However, you could constantly hear the water running from it because in order for them to work, they waste 4-7 gallons of water per 1 gallon of consumable water they produce. As someone who is environmentally conscious, that isn’t something I’m interested in. With this new water filtration system, we’ve got on demand filtered cold water without additional waste or complex installation. 

Setting up a Smaller System

Next I’m going to show you the PURE 10k In-Line filtration system. The Pure 10k also removes 99.9% of the same contaminants while leaving essential minerals in your drinking water. This system is great for bathrooms or as an in-line filter for a refrigerator water line or similar. 

Installation is similar to the larger unit. First find a spot to mount the included mounting bracket and install it with the included screws. Next turn off the cold water supply line at the valve, turn on the faucet to drain the remaining water in the line. Then disconnect the outlet line at the valve. From there, connect the inlet line on the filter to the cold water valve and connect the other end to the water line for the faucet using thread tape and adjustable wrenches. Lastly, turn the water valve back on, check for leaks, and you’re good to go. 

This system has the capacity to filter 10,000 gallons of water before replacement so it should last a good long time in a small bathroom like this. 

You’re All Set!

So that’s it for this project! I hope it showed you how you can easily get clean drinking water for you and your family. If you’re not sure what type of water your house has, check out this post. It shows how you can easily do a DIY water test to see what potential contaminants are in your water. Then you can see if installing a water filtration system is right for you.

I want to say a quick thank you to Survivor Filter for sending over the filters you saw me install. I absolutely encourage you guys to check out their full line of water filtration systems. Not only do they have these systems for your home, but they also have outdoor and on-the-go systems. They are perfect for backpacking, camping, fishing, hunting, or any outdoor activity that has you on the move. Their in-home products are manufactured here in the United States and made to be environmentally friendly. 

If you liked this project, here are some other water related projects I’ve done. Check them out!

Upgrade a Modern Water Spigot

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Thanks so much for stopping by and I’ll see you next time!  

The outdoor water spigot hasn’t changed much in about 100 years since the advent of indoor plumbing. They’re typically made of brass and look something like this.

There are a few problems with them. They protrude outside the house and in freezing climates, they can be difficult to drain. This can cause them to freeze or break in the winter. It’s also common for your hose to leak around them when you thread it on which can get a little annoying.

Today I’m going to show you how to install a sleek new modern take on the water spigot. It’s called the house hydrant from Aquor Water Systems. 

Disclosure: This post contains a paid product integration from Aquor Water Systems. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

Adding a New Shutoff Valve

The first step is to shut off the water to the line. There’s no shutoff valve on this one, so I have to shut the water off at the main line. I’ll be adding a new shutoff later on.

Next, open up the valve and drain off any water remaining in the line. From there, use a pipe cutter to cut the supply line in the area you’re working on. The exact location isn’t super important for this. I just want to make sure I cut it back far enough that I have the ability to work.

From there, slide on a new shutoff valve for the water line for the new hose bib. These sharkbite fittings make it super DIY friendly. They just slide right over the existing copper water lines and snap in place. You could shut the valve here and turn the water on for the rest of the house if you want, but I’m leaving it off for the time being. 

Preparing for Installation

Next, let’s take a look at the components that come with the new house hydrant. Full disclosure, Aquor did send me this house hydrant to install and review. After I came across their product online, I reached out to them to test it out. 

The box comes with mounting instructions, an accessory book, a removable faucet, cover plate, and the house hydrant itself. Aquor also supplied me with a chrome cover plate, a separate removable faucet, and a hose. 

First, I’m going to install a mounting block to the side of the house. This is recommended by the manufacturer to ensure we have a 90 degree mounting surface. Before I can install it, I’m adding a small piece of 2×6 inside the block to act as a backer. Then I mock up the mounting location sticker and pre-drill the block with the hole saw.

In this case, I want to move the location up slightly from where the old water spigot was. This gives me more room to install siding around it later on. It will still pass through the rim joists and into the basement on this house. I mock up the new location for the block and use a 1 ½” hole saw on my drill to drill out the hole. Once the hole is drilled, I’m using some roofing nails to hold the mount in place. 

Installing the House Hydrant

Next, I go back inside and mount a small piece of pex piping to the newly installed shutoff valve. Then I feed it so it reaches out the hole. Aquor actually recommends a little extra piping. It’ll allow me to easily remove the hose bib later if I ever need to do any service or maintenance on it. 

From there I’m adding a threaded pex adapter to the end of the house hydrant using some thread tape and pipe thread compound.  I’ll use a pex clamp tool and a clamp to secure the house hydrant to the new pex line. Then, slide it back into the wall and install it with the mounting screws. 

The last thing to do is turn the water back on, check for any leaks, and test it out. What’s cool about this product is that the handle goes right into the wall and threads into place. I should mention that it does take some getting used to to ensure the handle is seated properly before twisting into place. Once you’re done, remove the handle. The excess water drains from the line so you never have to worry about it freezing. The cap also covers it up, so it looks relatively seamless for next time. 

Project Complete!

So that’s it for this modernized version of a water spigot! I hope you enjoyed it and I hope you learned something new. Or, maybe it introduced you to a new product that you maybe weren’t aware of. I want to say a quick thank you to Aquor Water Systems for sending over this house hydrant for me to install. If you’re interested in checking it out and seeing all the options, here to visit their site.

And if you enjoyed this project, then you just might love these as well: 

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Thanks for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time! 

When it comes to ground cover, most homeowners want something “low maintenance.” Few things are as low maintenance as artificial turf. Advancements in turf tech have come a long way from the classic green carpet days. Today I’m going to show you how you can install a beautiful artificial turf lawn at your home. Watch the video above to follow along. 

Disclosure: This video and article contains and unpaid product integration by Synlawn. Check out their full line of turf products here: https://www.synlawn.com/

Click here for a complete list of tools I mentioned in this project. (affiliates)

For this project I’ll be using the SynAugustine547 artificial turf which was provided to me by SynLawn. I found Synlawn after doing a lot of research on artificial turf. What I really like about this product is that Synlawn uses a biobased material that is made from soybeans to create a realistic looking turf that is environmentally friendly and not petroleum based. It’s also anti-microbial, and manufactured in the United States. 

This is one of the rare instances where I’ll say that this isn’t really a pure “DIY” job. Meaning that it’s not really something I recommend doing on your own. That’s not to say it can’t be done (as you’ll see) but at least having several people available to help you will make your life so much easier. But given the social distancing measures in place at the moment, I chose to try and see if I could tackle it on my own. 

Preparing the Base

The first and most important step to getting a quality installation is to properly prepare the base. In this case, I am working in a newly constructed area so it requires filling with base material, vibrating it to force the material to settle, and to grade the base properly. If you’re installing over an existing lawn area, your first step will be to kill the existing lawn and remove as much of it as possible. If you have a solid base to work from and want to skip ahead over the next part, I’ll leave a timecode link down below to take you to the next steps. Otherwise, if you need to fill and grade the area. I’ll show you how to do that now. 

How to Properly Grade the Area

One of the most important steps is making sure the area is graded properly. That means is that it is sloped properly for adequate drainage. In this case, I worked with my building transit to create a grading map of the area. The transit allows you to set a level point of reference so that you can measure the elevation differences across your area to create a grading map. Many pros now use laser levels to achieve this but it’s not a tool I currently own. In this case, I want the highest elevation to be up against the house and slope towards the outer retaining walls at ¼” per foot slope. This area is roughly 18 ft wide, so I want the highest area by the house to be 4.5” higher than the outer wall grade. 

As I fill and compact the fill, I repeatedly check the grade to make sure that it is what I need it to be. Compaction is important because the loose soil/or fill will settle over time so compaction speeds up the settling process and will make sure the installation lasts over time. Adding water throughout the process helps the soil or fill settle and also helps keep the dust down. You can rent both a vibratory plate, which is good for vibrating about 4” deep of material. Or a jumping jack which allows you to compact a little thicker base material. If you are adding a lot of fill to an area, it’s a good idea to compact it in layers along the way until you get the elevation about ½” to ¾” below where you want your final turf elevation to be. 

My Mistake

Now this is where I made a mistake in my initial installation. As I reached my final grade, I should have used a fill material with smalleraggregate like a decomposed granite for the final 4” or so of fill. The road base I used had larger rocks in it (even than what it was supposed to) so it didn’t compact super smooth. When I rolled out the turf initially, I could feel all the little discrepancies. That’s why I’m saying the base preparation is the most important part of the installation. 

Cutting and Installing

Roll out the turf and cut it to the proper size using a utility knife or turf cutting tool. Be sure to cut the turf slightly larger than the area you’re installing in. That way you can trim off any excess later on and ensure complete coverage. If your area is larger than the turf roll you’ll need to seam the turf.

Seaming the Turf

To seam the pieces together, I ripped another strip of the turf (paying attention to make sure the fibers were in the same direction) and then aligned the edges along with the other piece. Once I made sure the pieces lined up properly, I used a few landscape spikes to hold the pieces in place and folded open the seam. Next I rolled out some turf seam tape and staked it in place along the length of the seam. (Don’t buy cheap landscape staples off Amazon unless you want to waste half of them by bending them) I’d recommend just buying 6” galvanized landscape spikes. 

From there, you’ll want to apply a liberal amount of outdoor carpet adhesive to the tape, and spread it evenly across using a notched trowel. Let the glue cure for 10-15 minutes and then slowly work your way down the seam, connecting the two sides and securing the seam in place with landscape spikes. Pay careful attention to make sure you get a tight seam between the two pieces. 

Tightening and Trimming

Make your way around the perimeter of the installed area and use landscape spikes to secure the turf in place. If you notice any loose areas, you can use a carpet kicker to get the turf nice and tight. You can use a variety of different tools to cut off the excess on the edges but I had the best luck with just a regular utility knife. Take your time to carefully cut around any obstacles like trees, planter beds, or drains. 

Adding Infill

Once you have the turf laid out and installed, next you’ll need to add the infill. For residential use, the most common infill is sand. In this case I’m using Envirofill sand which is an antimicrobial that helps prevent bacteria, mold, and mildew from forming in your turf. This infill is perfect for play areas and pets. The infill helps the grass fibers of the turf to stand up, and adds weight to hold the turf in place. It also keeps the turf much cooler than the rubber infill alternatives. 

I used a large seed spreader to spread the sand around the turf making sure to cover the entire surface. I used about 1 bag per 20 Sq. ft as instructed on the bag. 

And finally, once the sand is installed, the final step for the installation is to use a stiff bristled push broom or turf rake to sweep the sand into the fibers and help them stand up. Make sure to work in the same direction across the turf to help create a uniform surface. From there you can do any last minute touch ups around the edges or at the seams with a pair of scissors which will be the last time you’ll ever have to cut this grass! 

And that’s it, you are finished with this project. 

Finished Product

I hope you guys enjoyed it and I hope you learned something new. I know I did as this was my first time installing synthetic turf like this. It’s not a project I recommend you tackle as a one person operation. But it’s definitely something you and a few friends could knock out in a weekend. My family absolutely loves the way this space came together and it’s such a comfortable and nice play area for my son.

If you liked this project I encourage you to subscribe to the channel. Also check out some of these other outdoor projects. 

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Thanks for your support!