In this project I’m going to show you how to monitor your home’s energy usage by installing a Sense Home Energy Monitoring Device that you can monitor right from your phone or tablet. This device allows you to view your home’s energy usage in real-time on your phone. With that information you can determine which areas of your home to focus on improving.

Disclosure: This video and article contains an unpaid product integration by Sense. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

One of the things I’m very passionate about is finding ways to make my home more energy efficient. A few months ago I learned about a product called Sense. Sense is an energy monitoring device that installs into your breaker panel and allows you to see how much power each device in your home uses. You can use that information to make more energy efficient improvements to your home. 

Disclaimer:

I’d like to remind you that I am not a licensed electrician. If at any point you are not comfortable tackling this project on your own, please reach out to an electrician that can help you with the installation. This is designed to be a guide to show you how it can be done, but does not replace the expertise or knowledge of a licensed electrician. 

Installing the Device:

The first step to installing this device is unpacking the box and taking a look at all the components. The package contains with a device monitor, an antenna, 2 sensor clips, a power cable, and an optional mounting bracket.

Next you’ll have to get access to your main breaker panel, and shut the power off. Remove the cover panel and have a look at your breaker setup. This device requires that it be wired into a dual pole 220v breaker which is not included in the kit so if you don’t have one available that you can tap into, you’ll have to buy one that matches your panel. If you do need to purchase a breaker, you’ll also have to verify that your breaker panel has space available to install it.

Installing the Antenna

Once you’ve verified you have space available for the install, remove a knock out from the panel box and install the antenna into the hole. From there you can connect the antenna to the device monitor itself. If you don’t have room inside the panel, you can use the optional monitor bracket to install it outside the panel.

Wiring the Device

Install your new breaker if you need to or connect the wiring to your existing breaker. The black and red wires connect to the breaker itself, and the white wire attaches to the neutral bar in your panel.

Connecting the Service Clips

Now this is where things get dangerous if you’re not familiar with your panel box. You’ll need to connect the current sensor clips around the service legs coming into your panel. These 2 wires ARE ALWAYS LIVE even if your panel box is shut off. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES TOUCH THEM. In my case, these wires are hidden underneath the meter on the panel which is secured by the power company with a lock which I didn’t have a key for. So I called my local power company and asked them to come out and shut off the power and remove the lock so that I could access those wires. Since they shut the power service off to the house, there was no danger of me being shocked when I connected the clips. Once I had them installed, they replaced the meter and turned the power back on.

Once I had the wiring all connected, I removed the necessary knockouts on the cover of my breaker panel, reinstalled it, and turned the main power back on at the breaker. From there, the device fires up and starts it’s process.

Download and Set Up the App

Next I downloaded the Sense App on my phone, and began the setup process. It connects via WiFi and prompts you to setup your device. Once logged in, it takes a couple days to calibrate and then it starts the process of identifying devices around your home.

Identifying Devices

The device shows exact energy usage in real-time and starts to identify different devices around your home automatically. It has a smart learning algorithm that can determine which devices are which and starts to label them around your home. You can verify or change the name of the device right in the app. As more homes connect to the app, it continues to learn and define new devices.

You can go around and flip devices on and off and see the effect on your energy usage in real-time. And you can set goals with notifications to keep your energy consumption down, see which devices are using the highest percentage of power, get pretty accurate estimates on your energy bills by inputting your typical costs. They also offer a solar option which will tell you how much energy your solar panels are producing and how much they are offsetting your energy bill if you have solar panels.

Review

Overall, this is a really cool device. It’s helped me realize how inefficient my home is when it comes to heating and air conditioning. I didn’t realize how many hours those devices run on a daily basis which drastically affects my utility bill. Moving forward I’ll be taking that information to continue to invest in ways to offset that energy usage.

I think a device like this can definitely be useful for someone like myself who owns an older, fixer upper that is looking to improve its efficiency. The Sense device can help tell you where your energy and thus where your money is going. This can help you prioritize where you focus your remodel efforts. And over time, this could save you a lot of money. 

I hope you guys enjoyed this project. I’d like to thank the Sense team for sending over this device and allowing me to test it out. 

Check out some of my other home energy & electrical tutorials:

10 DIY Ways to Warm Your Home and Lower Your Heat Bill

How to Install a Post Lamp

In this DIY project tutorial I’ll walk you through how I installed the tile floor in my jack & jill bathroom and show you all the considerations and planning that needs to be done in order to do a DIY tile floor install. This project will take you a few days so make sure to set aside a weekend or a few days where you can afford to not use the bathroom you’re working on. 

Disclosure: This post contains a paid product placement by The WD40 Company. All views and opinions are my own. 

Preparing the Floor

To get started, first I had to remove the existing floor and prepare it for the new tile floor. This bathroom happened to have an old pink tile floor with a thick mortar bed under it so removing it was a bit of a challenge. I used a combination of a sledgehammer, a hammer drill, and a shovel to pry it up. Once I had the old tile removed, I had to do a little bit of structural work to repair some subfloor damage due to water and termites (cutting out old, rotten areas and replacing with new wood). 

Once the subfloor was repaired, I could get to work on preparing for the new tile. In this case, I installed a ½” cement backer board on top of the subfloor. Make sure your floor is level when preparing your substrate. If it’s not level, consider floating a mortar bed to make it level. There are a lot of options out there to use as a substrate under the tile including cement backer board like I used, floating a mortar bed like the previous floor, or using a newer product like Kerdi Waterproofing membrane. If you plan to add radiant heating in your new flooring, that may affect which type of substrate you choose to use. In this case, I just went with the simple backer board.

Installing the backer board requires cutting the pieces to fit your space, and then attaching it to the subfloor with cement board screws. Once installed, I used some mesh tape and thin set mortar to cover all the seams and create a water resistant surface.

From there I chose to cover the whole floor in a product called Redgard. Redgard is a liquid waterproofing membrane. I had used it for the shower walls and had leftover so I chose to use it on the floor as an added waterproofing barrier.

Tile Layout and Installation

Next I was ready for tile. In my case I chose a hexagonal porcelain tile (I said ceramic in the video) and because of that, I wanted to experiment with the layout to minimize cuts and waste. I find using software like Google Sketchup allows you to input the dimensions of your space to determine the best layout before installing.

To install the tile, I’m mixing up some thinset mortar and applying it to the floor with a notched trowel. The rule of thumb is to use thinset mortar as your tile adhesive in wet areas. For drier areas like a kitchen backsplash, you can use tile adhesive or mastic.

Because this is a larger tile, I’m using a ¼” trowel. Always start away from your access door and work your way out of the room. I notch a work area in the mortar and then use a technique called “back buttering” on each tile before setting them in place. Back buttering involves using a small trowel to apply mortar to the backside of the tile which when pressed into place, creates a solid seal of mortar to secure the tile in place.

For tile spacers, I chose to use these tile alignment spacers. These tiles have 6 sides so this type of spacer helps minimize lippage, which is where one tile is higher than the next. Because of the hexagon shape, I had to use a LOT of them.

I worked my way through the room and when I got to the edges, I used my wet saw to cut the tiles to the necessary size. When it comes to the toilet flange and the curved tub surround, I used a pair of tile nippers to cut a radius in the tiles so that the cut was as clean and close to the curved surfaces as possible.

Once I had worked my way through the entire room, I let the mortar set for 24 hours before coming back in and removing the clips and breaking off the protruding spacers.

Adding Grout

And finally, I’m ready for grout. In this case I’m using a Non-sanded grout because my grout lines are ⅛”. If your grout lines are larger than that you should use Sanded grout. Grout comes in a wide array of colors but I chose to use a grey similar to the floor. I used a rubber grout float to spread it across the floor making sure all the lines were filled and then used a wet sponge to wipe off the excess once it had hazed over.

Lastly, I applied several coats of grout sealant on the floor to create a watertight seal and prevent it from getting dirty. Grout is a porous substance so if you don’t seal it, it can absorb moisture and dirt.

Cleaning and Storing Your Tools

Once you’re finished with your tools, I always recommend you wipe them down with a coat of WD-40. If you don’t do this, your trowels can oxidize as they sit around so next time you go to use them you’ll have to deal with scrubbing off the rust.

If you forgot to clean them off before the mortar has hardened, don’t worry! You can still clean them. Use some WD-40 Trigger Pro to spray on the mortar, and then tap it with a hammer. Then using another trowel or painter’s tool to scrape off the mortar. Then wipe them down with WD40 afterwards.

If you have rusty trowels sitting around, I recommend soaking them in WD-40 Specialist Rust Remover Soak for a while.

Spend the time to keep them in good working order and they’ll last you for many more jobs to come.  

Well that’s it for this project, I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it gave you the confidence to tackle your own DIY bathroom tile project. If you did enjoy this project, here are some others you may enjoy. 

Tile Like a Pro | Tips from an Old World Craftsman

How to Install Hardwood Floors

DIY home electrical work is one of those things many homeowners shy away from and it can be a little bit dangerous if you don’t have a little bit of knowledge, but I’m here to show you the 5 tools I think every homeowner should own that can tackle many common electrical issues around the home and save you from making expensive calls to an electrician. If you’re new to home electrical projects, don’t worry, I’ve got you covered with some basic tutorials here.

Before I get started I just want to say that any time you’re working on any electrical project in your home. make sure to turn the power off at the breaker to the area or room you’re working in to make sure that you are working safely and that you or someone else will not get hurt.

So with that said, let’s dive into our list.

#5.) Screwdrivers (flat & phillips)

I’m sure most homeowners already have at least A screwdriver lying around the house, and if not, you should definitely get yourself a set. For electrical projects, you’ll need at least a screwdriver with an interchangeable tip, or both a Phillips head and flat head. Many old receptacles have strictly flat head screws; while newer fixtures typically have Phillips or a combination. Having both types on hand ensures that you’re prepared for any situation.

#4.) Razor Blade and Electrical Tape

I know they’re technically two tools but I hardly classify tape as a tool by itself so I figured I’d lump it together with another smaller tool. These two tools are a constant when working on any electrical project. A razor blade is great for cutting the casing on modern Romex wiring and electrical tape is good for a few reasons. #1) I like to use it to wrap terminal heads to protect from a shock in the event someone tries to pull out a receptacle with the power on. #2) It can also be used to indicate a hot wire in an instance where the wire’s coloring may indicate otherwise.

#3.) Receptacle Circuit Tester

This plug in tool is an easy way to diagnose wiring mistakes when it comes to receptacles. The lights on the tool show you if an error is present and tell you what the problem is so you can fix it. It also tells you when a receptacle is wired correctly.

#2.) Wire Strippers

These are cheap and very handy tools to have on hand for any DIY wiring project. They have cutouts for the various gauge wiring you’re working with. Most residential wiring is either 12 gauge or 14 gauge wiring. I use a pair of these on ever single electrical project I tackle so they’re essential to have in your tool pouch.

#1.) Voltage Detector

The #1 tool on my list is both a safety tool and a diagnostic tool and is the 1^st tool I reach for in any electrical project and that is a Voltage detector. This little pen-like tool is a must have for any homeowner because it alerts you when any voltage is present. After I turn the power off at the breaker before I start a project, I always follow that up by verifying that the power is off with this tool. Any voltage that is present will make the tool light up and beep so you know if the power is in fact off.

Also, this tool can be really helpful for diagnosing old or mislabeled wiring as you can move it around to find out which wire is hot and which is neutral. The power needs to be on at the breaker for this to work so if you’re troubleshooting wiring, be extra careful.

So that’s it for this Top 5 DIY list. You can grab all these tools for less than $100 which is less than you’d pay an electrician to come out for a single visit and with them you can tackle a tremendous amount of household electrical issues.

If you liked this content, check out more like it here:

Top 5 DIY Plumbing Tools

How to Increase the Value of Your Home

In this project tutorial I’ll walk you through how I installed the hardwood floor in my son’s bedroom and show you all the considerations and planning that needs to be done in order to do a DIY hardwood floor install. In this case, we settled on a dark distressed bamboo hardwood. A common complaint with bamboo hardwood floors is that while they’re really resilient to dings and scratches once they’re installed, the tongues on them can be really brittle so installing them typically requires gluing them down rather than nailing them down which can be a little messy and challenging.

Fortunately, Powernail sent me their new Model 2000F 20GA. hardwood floor nailer to test out which they claim is specifically designed to install brittle tongued flooring. This nailer is much smaller than a traditional hardwood flooring nailer and doesn’t require a mallet to hit the nail gun and shoot the nails.

Things to Consider Before Buying Your Flooring

1. Determining Square Footage:

Before you get started installing any hardwood or laminate flooring, you’ll first want to measure the room you’re going to be installing the flooring into and then checking the flooring you’re going to install to see what the square footage coverage is per box. Measure the length and width of the room and multiply them together. I recommend you purchase 10-15% more flooring than you need to account for cuts and waste.

2. Measure the Flooring in Adjoining Rooms

Also, keep in mind the flooring in the adjoining rooms. You always want to try and choose a floor that is roughly the same thickness as whatever is around it so you don’t have a bunch of different height floors to try and dress up later. In my case, after removing the carpet I could get away with a hardwood that was 9/16” thick to keep an even height with the hallway. You don’t want to choose a floor that’s too thick or too thin that you have to try and come up with a fix for later.

Purchase Your Flooring and Acclimate it to Your Home

Once you have your flooring, bring it into the house or the area it’s going to be installed and let it acclimate to the climate in the room for a few days. The humidity of your home can affect the flooring so you never want to install it the same day you purchase it.  

Preparing the Subfloor & Remove Baseboards

Next you need to prepare the subfloor that the hardwood is being installed over. In this case I removed some old carpet and found old tongue and groove subfloor underneath. Check the floor to make sure it’s nice and level and do any necessary work level the subfloor if you have to.Go around and knock down any old nail heads, or remove any staples or things sticking up from the floor, and then thoroughly clean the area with a shop vac.

Also, remove any existing baseboard moldings in the room. In this case the baseboards are old built in baseboards that are plastered in with the walls which I won’t remove because it would damage the walls so I’ll custom make some new baseboards to go over them later.

Laying Out Your Flooring

Next you want to determine the layout of the flooring in the space. I like to start by finding the longest straight run in the room, (or work off the center of the room if it’s relatively square). Working my way off that point, I lay out some pieces or measure the width of my finish boards to determine where they’ll line up. I do this to make sure that I won’t have any sliver cuts or funky shaped pieces to deal with during installation.

Keep in mind that many old homes have walls that are out of square so adjust your measurements accordingly. If you find you’ll have an awkward cut piece, adjust where your pieces will line up so you don’t have any really thin pieces are the end to deal with. Also try and determine what layout will

allow you to cut the fewest pieces. Make sure you plan to stagger each joint by at least 6” and avoid H joints where 2 rows line up that aren’t at least 2 rows apart.

Underlayment

Once you have your layout roughly figured out, next install a vapor barrier on the floor. Red Rosin paper is a cheap product that’s been around forever, but they also make a ton of other products for this. Lay it out in the room and overlap it by 4-6” with every row.

Installing the Flooring

Now you’re ready to start installing your flooring. On your first rows, you may need to face nail the rows in place with a finish nailer to hold them in place. Make sure you leave an expansion gap around the edges of the flooring at each wall. This allows for the flooring to expand and contract with changes in season and humidity. Follow any markings you laid out on the floor during the layout phase to make sure you’re laying the flooring correctly.

Once you have the first few rows installed, you can use the flooring nailer from here on out. I like to use a small piece of the actual flooring as a tap block to make sure the pieces are firmly seated in their grooves before shooting them in place. They sell tap blocks and bars but I find using the actual floor works better and doesn’t slip as much so there’s less chance of damaging the edges of the flooring. When nailed, this flooring recommends being fastened every 4-6” so I’m working my way down each piece.

Alternate Pieces from Different Boxes of Flooring

Colors can vary from box to box so as you work your way through the room, make sure you’re taking pieces from various boxes of flooring as you go. You never want to do half your room and then find out that the next box is a slightly different shade.

Door Jambs

When you get to door jambs, use a piece of flooring to act as a depth gauge to cut off the bottom of the casings at the height of the new flooring and then slide the new flooring underneath. Don’t try to cut the flooring around them because it looks terrible. Also, extend the flooring into the center of the jambs and then later you can go back and install a transition or threshold piece to blend the floors from various rooms together.

Face Nail the Final Row

Work your way through the entire room and when you get to the final row, face nail it in place as close to the wall as you can. You can patch any face nail holes with matching wood putty, or cover them with the baseboard or shoe moulding that you choose. A finish nail shouldn’t be noticeable in the flooring. 

Install Floor Transitions or Thresholds

Lastly install any transition or threshold pieces. These may be additional items you need to purchase as part of your flooring order. Talk to your hardwood flooring retailer and let them know what types of transitions you need. Now you can install whatever baseboard or shoe moulding you choose and you are finished with this project!

Finished!

I hope this tutorial was helpful in teaching you how to install hardwood floors. It can be a little tricky, but I’m confident you can do it on your own and get great results like I did. If you liked this project, here are a few other home improvement projects you might enjoy! 

How to Install Laminate Flooring 

Tile Like a Pro

I’ll be installing the Maximus Floodlight Camera  by Kuna in this tutorial. I prefer the look and functionality of the Maximus lights compared to other camera lights on the market. The one thing I would suggest when installing smarter home products is that you try to stick to one or a few specific brands so as to not inundate yourself with smart home apps.

Step #1: Removing the Existing Light

First, make sure the power to the breaker is shut off that powers the motion light you are working on.

Next, remove the screw holding the light to the junction box. You can now pull the light from the box to expose the wiring. I recommend using a voltage tester to make sure the power is off to the light before touching the wiring. If there is voltage present, the voltage tester will beep.

Now you can disconnect the wiring. You should see a black hot wire, a white neutral, and a green ground wire. Depending on how old you home is, the coloring could differ. Finally, unscrew the mounting bracket for the light from the box.

Step #2: Unpack the New Light

Now, unpack your new light from its box and look through your components. This light comes with a mounting bracket, a mounting plate, the lamp head, and hardware.

Detach the mounting plate from the head lamp on the new light by releasing the locking switch on the mounting plate.

Step #3: Attach the Mounting Bracket and Wiring

To begin installing the new light, screw in the new mounting bracket to the junction box.

With the mounting bracket fastened, secure the wiring from the mounting plate to the wires in the junction box using the included wire nuts. Make sure to connect them black to black, white to white.For this light, there is no visible ground wire. The ground screw mounts through the center of the mounting plate and grounds the fixture to the grounded box.

Step #4: Fasten the Mounting Plate and Head Lamp

Next mount the mounting plate to the mounting bracket with the screw in the center paying close attention to the area marker “up” on the mounting plate. In this case I’m mounting the light under an eave so “up” faces out towards me.

Once the plate is installed, attach the lamp head to the plate my inserting the metal nubs into the slots and turning the lamp. And then lock the locking switch.

Finally, turn the breaker power back on at the breaker.

Step #5: Connect and Customize Your Light

From here, download the Kuna app for your light and connect it to your wifi account. You can add a bunch of different cameras, adjust the sensitivity of the motion detector, adjust the brightness of the light and when it turns on and off. You can even add or adjust the sound that plays when motion is detected.

The footage automatically records to your phone when it detects motion and alerts you with a notification if you want it to.

Being able to monitor your home from anywhere really gives you a lot of peace of mind. Adding a little security that you can monitor from your phone has never been easier or more affordable.

If you liked this project, check out some of these other smart home improvement projects:

Installing a Keyless Entry Lock System

Installing a Smart Thermostat

I hope you enjoyed this, and I hope you learned something new! If you did like this guide or find it helpful, feel free to subscribe to my YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/mrfixit.

“I think subway tiles are always a classic hit that will never go out of style.”

What things should homeowners consider when installing new tile in their home?

I think homeowners should consider whether they’re going to want an installation that is going to last a long time or if they’re looking to flip the house. There are always ways to make the cost cheaper when purchasing materials. Most of the time my clients already have an idea of what they want, I usually just direct them where to get it.

You obviously do some high dollar tile design, what are a few tips you’d give the average homeowner who maybe doesn’t have a lot in their budget but wants to up their tile game?

When on a budget, simplicity is key. You could go out and get basic white tile and do something classic with them. I think subway tiles are always a classic look that will never go out of style.

Are there any common mistakes you see homeowners committing when it comes to DIY tile installs? Any absolute “Don’t Do’s” when it comes to tile?

There are a lot of “don’t do’s“ but the biggest would have to be in shower areas that can have water damage. Make sure you do your homework and have good waterproofing or you risk causing serious damage and costing yourself A LOT of extra money.

Can you explain the difference between using thin set mortar vs mastics? Is there a reason to use one over the other?

Mastic (tile adhesives) is designed for areas such as backsplashes where there isn’t a lot of water. In high water contact areas (like a shower/bath) you normally want to use a modified thin set.

“Needless to say if you were to go to Europe and see tile installation that was installed centuries ago it’s all installed on mortar. That’s why I brand myself as an old world craftsman.”

I notice you use mortar to float most of your applications rather than using cement backer board. Can you explain why and what your basic process is for floating?

When floating with mortar, you have the advantage of making an area that isn’t square and plum, square and plum. Also the waterproofing is behind The mud bed as opposed to being right behind the thin set. What that means is if you have to remove a Tile you are not affecting the waterproofing but just hitting at cement. I could go on and on about the benefits of a mortar bed but needless to say if you were to go to Europe and see tile installation that was installed centuries ago it’s all installed on mortar. That’s why I brand myself as an old world craftsman.

“There is nothing more satisfying than to be able to install what you imagined and it coming out great. It’s so satisfying.”

What’s your favorite part of your tile projects (designing, installation, etc.)? Why?

I think at this point Design is very fun for me. Getting to design a bathroom or kitchen backsplash is so enjoyable for me. But there is nothing more satisfying than to be able to install what you imagined and it coming out great. It’s so satisfying.

Meet the Pro:

Adam Esparza is a second generation tile contractor that has over 15 years experience and takes great pride in the art and customization of his trade. As a teenager he was his Uncle’s apprentice and he and his Dad installed the “old world” way using mortar. Adam started ALE Tile Co. in 2013 after realizing the corporate world was not for him. He says that he feels he “was meant to be a self-employed artist.”

ALE Tile Co. specializes in custom tile work in the greater Orange County, CA area. Using old world techniques paired with modern technology, he works hard to ensure your finished product is not only exactly what you’re looking for, but one that will stand the test of time. He works with you to individualize and design each project & does it the right way so you can feel confident knowing you’ve gotten the quality of work you’re looking for.

For more Tiling tips from Adam, listen to our full podcast episode: How to Tile Like a Pro

Follow ALE Tile Co. on Instagram @aletile

All images in this post are attributable and subject to copyright by ALE Tile Co. and are used with permission.

The post Tile Like a Pro | Tips from an Old World Craftsman appeared first on Mr. Fix It DIY.]]> https://mrfixitdiy.com/tile-like-pro/feed/ 3 https://mrfixitdiy.com/how-to-install-gutters/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=how-to-install-gutters&utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=how-to-install-gutters Sat, 25 Feb 2017 08:05:56 +0000 https://mrfixitdiy.com/?p=1195 How to Install Gutters It’s been pouring rain in SoCal this winter and it’s really done a number on my house since it hasn’t had gutters since we bought it. So this week I show you how to tackle installing gutters on your house on your own using materials you can pick up from a […]