This post contains paid product mention from GE. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Why Proper Installation and Sealing Matter

The primary cause of window and door failure is improper installation, which often involves inadequate air and water sealing. Air and water sealing are essential for ensuring that windows and doors function correctly and maintain energy efficiency. Poor sealing can lead to issues like drafts, water damage, and reduced energy performance, which can ultimately cost you more in repairs and utility bills.

Replacement vs. New Construction Windows

When updating your home’s windows, you’ll typically choose between replacement windows and new construction windows. Replacement windows are designed to fit into existing frames without removing the interior and exterior trim. While this makes installation easier, it can result in less effective sealing.

On the other hand, new construction windows come with a nailing flange that adds an extra layer of protection against air and water infiltration. Despite the additional work required, new construction windows generally offer better sealing and weatherproofing.

Step-by-Step Guide to Proper Window Installation and Sealing

Step 1: Prepping the Rough Opening

1. Measure the Rough Opening: Ensure the rough opening is slightly larger than the window, usually about 1/2 to 1 inch wider. This allows space for proper sealing. The exact dimensions for your windows should be noted in the installation instructions.
2. Angle the Sill: The bottom of the rough opening (the sill) should be angled slightly towards the exterior. This ensures that any water that gets behind the window will drain out.
3. Apply Flashing Tape: Use rubberized, waterproof flashing tape to seal the sill. Apply it across the bottom and up the sides of the rough opening. For corners, you can use pre-made plastic corner flashings or create your own with stretchable tape. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for rolling the tape if required.

Step 2: Dry Fitting the Window

Place the window into the rough opening to check the fit. Add shims at the bottom sill to create a small, even gap around the window for air sealing. Ensure the window is plumb and level before proceeding.

Step 3: Final Window Installation

1. Seal Around the Window: Use a premium 100% silicone sealant, like GE Sealants Window and Door Supreme, to create a continuous bead around the top and sides of the window. Avoid sealing the bottom entirely to allow for any potential water drainage.
2. Apply Flashing Tape: Flash around the window, starting with the sides and then the top. Ensure that the sides overlap with the top flashing. Consider adding a Z flashing above the window to help direct water away.
3. Trim and Finish: After installing the window, seal around the trim with a GE product that matches your window and trim color. Use 100% silicone for the best seal, but if you need a paintable option, GE’s Siliconized Acrylic or Paintable Silicone Supreme are excellent choices.

Interior Sealing

For the interior, focus on air sealing to eliminate drafts. Use GE’s insulating foam specifically designed for windows and doors. Spray the foam into gaps around the window frame, let it cure, and trim off any excess. Finish the installation by sealing edges with GE’s painters quick-dry sealant.

Conclusion

Proper window and door installation is essential for maintaining energy efficiency and preventing damage. By following these steps and using high-quality GE Sealants, you can ensure that your windows and doors are sealed for good, providing you with lasting performance and peace of mind.

For more information on GE Sealants and to explore their range of products, check out my amazon storefront. Thank you for reading, and happy sealing!

You only get one chance to make a first impression! It’s true in all aspects of life including your front door. Unfortunately when it came to our house, the front entryway was looking pretty drab and gross. Not to worry, I tackled a full DIY Entryway Overhaul complete with front Door Restoration and new hardware with the help from my friends from Minwax and Schlage! If you’re interested in watching the whole entry transformation, check out the full video here.

This project contains paid product integrations from Minwax and Schlage Locks. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

The Issue:

The various shades of brown paint on the doors and surrounding area really don’t stand out against the beige brick that features on the majority of the house. Also, the solid wood doors have been painted over umpteen times and have lost their character.

The Goal:

The goal of the project is to bring some visual interest to the front entryway with sharp contrast against the beige brick, and a combination of tones and textures.

Step 1: Paint (the Walls)

I think when it comes to painting, there’s not much to say. Pretty self explanatory, right? Well there are a few helpful tips that I can share about painting to make your life easier.

1. 1.  Make sure you choose the right nap for your roller! Nap refers to the length of the fibers on the roller. A higher Nap means longer fibers so it is better suited to get into the nooks and crannies of a rougher surface. A lower nap number means it’s better suited for a smoother surface. For this project I’m using a 3/4″ nap for the rough walls and a 1/4″ nap for the smooth trim pieces.
   2. Taping – I’m not a huge fan of using a lot of tape for a couple reasons. #1 is that it creates a lot of waste to deal with, and #2 is it tends to give people a false sense of security and lets you be sloppy. However, a lot of tapes bleed under the edge and you end up having to fix it later anyway, adding a lot of time to the project. I use Frog Tape mostly and make sure to wet the edge of the tape when I put it up which activates their edge lock adhesive and gives much cleaner tape lines.

Step 2: Strip Paint On the Doors

There’s no secret in saying that restoring old doors is a lot of work and not the most fun one can have on a weekend! However, replacing wooden doors can also be extremely expensive so if you can spare the time and don’t mind a little hard work, you can get beautiful results. The first step is to use paint stripper. Add a generous coat(s) and let it sit for about 15 minutes and then come back through with a good, solid metal scraper and take your time peeling the layers off. You may have to do it several times depending on the amount of paint on the doors. Wear your gloves, eye protection, and a good respirator because this stuff can be noxious!

Step 3: Sand the Doors

After stripping, it’s not uncommon to feel like you’ve really made a mistake. It will likely look horrible! But don’t worry, get out a sander with some 80 grit paper and get to work. You’ll quickly start to see the raw wood and start to feel better about your decision. Work your way up through the grits until at least 220 grit. (I usually go 80 grit, 120 grit, and 220 grit)

Pay close attention to the details. The more detail your door has, the harder it’s going to be. It can be pretty tricky to get into those spaces but I recommend getting a small wire brush, sanding sponges, and utilizing paint stripper as much as possible to make your life easier. It takes time, there’s no way around that!

Step 4: (Pre) Stain the Doors

Choosing the right stain products for your doors is important. I like to use Oil-Based products on any outdoor project because it provides a more durable, harder finish over the longterm than its water-based counterpart. DON’T MIX AND MATCH oil and water-based. I also always like to use a quality Minwax Oil-based pre-stain conditioner. The pre-stain conditioner evens out the wood to create a more uniform stain look and remove any unsightly blotching that can sometimes occur. It’s especially important on old doors that have previously had other finishes previously applied. I applied it with a cheap chip brush and let it set up for about 30 minutes before staining.

For this project I chose the Minwax Oil-based Early American stain for the doors. I thought it gave a nice, warm contrast to the green and tan trim we chose for our color scheme. For staining, I also used a chip brush and followed it up with a rag to wipe off any excess after it sat on the wood for a few minutes. For more staining tips, check out this previous project article.

Step 5: Seal the Doors

A quality top coat can be a make or break step for restoring doors. In professional setups, they have a dedicated spray booth to get the best quality application possible. But you’re not a pro so just do your best. You can still get a great finish. I chose to use the Minwax Oil-based Helmsman Spar Urethane on these doors. It’s a great, durable finish that will provide years of UV and weather protection. I applied it with a brand new, high quality bristle brush in the direction of the wood grain and allowed it to set up according to the dry time on the can. Then I sanded the doors lightly with 400 grit paper and applied another coat. Then I repeated that process again for a solid 3 coat application.

Step 6: Update the Hardware

Lastly, to get a modern/rustic vibe, it’s time to update the hardware on the doors. I used the Century Matte Black Hardware and Century Touch Deadbolt from my friends at Schlage Locks.These doors required a little updating in order to install the new hardware which included installing a new patch in the old strike plate area and chiseling it out so it has a nice finished look. If you want to learn more about how to fix your old doors to install new hardware and update strike plates, make sure you check out this video where I walk you through the whole process! 

So that’s it for this project! I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it inspires you to tackle a door project you may have been too nervous to take on! 

If you’re interested in learning more about staining and/or restoring old furniture and household items, check out these other articles.

Restoring a 100 Year Old Tool Chest

How to Refinish Wood Furniture

Tackling a tile installation job in your home is one of those projects many homeowners steer clear of. While installing tile on your own can be a little tricky, once you’ve done it a few times, have the right tools, and a little bit of confidence, it’s a great skillset you can add to your arsenal. That’s why this week I’ve teamed up with Kobalt Tools to share 10 DIY Tiling Tips to Tile Like a Pro! Follow along with all my tips in the video above or feel free to scroll through them all down below!

For more tips from a Tile Professional, check out my interview with Professional Tile Setter, Adam Esparza of Ale Tile Co. 

This project contains a paid product integration from Kobalt Tools. All opinions herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

1.) Get Yourself the Right Tools

To get a quality installation with your tile, you’ll need some basic tools to get started. I recommend that you have the following tools on hand:

• A hammer
• A pencil
• A level
• A Utility Knife
• A drill and paddle mixer for mixing mortar
• Various notched trowels (1/4″, 5/32″, 3/16″ depending on your application
• A rubber grout float and sponge
• Some knee pads
• A clean bucket
• A tile cutter. (A wet tile saw or tile score and snap tool is really useful especially if you’re doing a larger tile project. However, if you can’t find or rent one, you can also use an angle grinder with a diamond cutoff blade, OR a small saw with a diamond blade like this one with a diamond cutoff blade.)

Thanks to Kobalt Tools for sending over many of the tools you see in this video for to me to put to the test.

2.) Make sure your Subfloor is Flat and Level

When doing a tile floor project you’ll want to make sure your floor is flat and level. You can use either a cement backer board, or what is called a dry pack mortar bed to set your tile on. A backer board application is more DIY friendly but creating your own mortar bed allows you to level uneven surfaces. You can also use a self leveling product to adjust your subfloor first and then apply a backer board or other membrane to tile over. You never want to tile directly over wood as wood expands and contracts in moisture and can cause your tile and grout to crack. 

3.)  Know the difference between mastic and Thin Set Mortar and when to use each

There are 2 main categories of adhesive to choose from when installing tile. 

1.) Mastic:

Commonly sold in stores as “Tile Adhesive”. Mastic is a pre-mixed glue like product and should only be used in primarily dry applications like kitchen backsplashes. Mastic is stickier than mortar so it’s good for vertical wall applications that aren’t exposed to regular moisture. When installing a backsplash with mastic I use a 3/16″ or 5/32” notched trowel to apply mastic to the wall in small working areas, and then press the tile in place on the wall with a grout float to make sure it seats properly. The notches in the trowel help secure the tile and make sure you aren’t over applying too much mastic which will squeeze out and cause problems especially if you’re using small mosaic tiles like these. 

2.)Thin-Set Mortar

Thin-set on the other hand can be used in any application and is my primary method for tile installation. Thin set is sold in bags or boxes and is mixed with water to create a peanut butter like paste. I use thinset for all flooring applications, shower and bath enclosures, and any large format tile installs. Keep your notches running in one direction and make sure that your notches are full. 

4.) Use Layout Lines

In older homes, sometimes the rooms aren’t square and it can be difficult to determine how the tile will look when installed. When installing square or rectangular tiles, I like to always reference the longest wall in the room and draw a line down the middle of the room. I usually add at least 1 perpendicular line as well. I reference these lines as I’m installing the tile to make sure the courses are staying straight to the room. Depending how square or out of square the room is, you can also use the Pathagoreon theorem or 3-4-5 rule to create square lines in the room. 

5.) Setting Your First Course Is Most Important

Installing the first course of tile is the most important to make sure you have a quality install. You can roughly layout tiles in the room to make sure you won’t have sliver cuts at the end as well. I typically like to shift the tile layout so that I have roughly a ½ piece of tile at each wall. Laying out your tile setup in something like Sketchup can also help you determine how to best set your first course. I always like to hide cuts as much as possible outside of the primary eye-line so keeping them along the edge of the room is best in my opinion.  

6.) Know When to Back Butter

A large format tile is a tile that is larger than 12″ x 12″. When installing a large format tile like this it’s important to do a technique called back buttering. Back buttering involves adding a thin coat of thinset to the backside of your tile using the flat side of the trowel. Pressing the tile down into the notches of the mortar on the floor or wall will create a full seat for the tile and not allow for air gaps to be created underneath. Air gaps under the tile can lead to cracks or breaks in the tile down the road if something is dropped in that area. In MOST small tile applications like subway tiles, you likely don’t need to back butter the tiles. 

7.) Trim your Door Casing!

You can almost always tell a professional tile job from a DIY tile job in a few ways. The most common DIY mistake I see is how people handle cuts around door jambs/frames. Many times people elect to cut around the door casing which can look okay if you do it really well BUT you’ve also now encased the door casing in so if you ever want to change it you’ll have to cut it off at the tile. The proper way is to use a tool like an oscillating tool to cut off the casing so you can slide the tile underneath it. It gives you a clean finish and also will allow you to change the casing easily later on if desired. Another mistake I see often is uneven tiles which leads me to my next point.

8.)  Use Tile Leveling Spacers to Minimize Lippage

Tiling is a bit of an imperfect science. There are a lot of variables to getting it to look right. Small changes in the amount of mortar, a floor that isn’t flat, or a random loose stone in your mortar can all affect how the tile sets. I recommend using tile leveling spacers to minimize lippage as much as possible. Lippage occurs when one tile is proud of the other tile which can easily be seen with the eye or felt under foot. Leveling spacers help even out any imperfections in your installation. 

9.) Use an Angle Grinder To Create Radiused or Plunge Cuts

Cutting radius cuts or cuts in the middle of a tile for something like a receptacle can be a little tricky. I like to use an angle grinder with a diamond cutoff wheel to make those cuts. Another option for small cuts are edges of tile is to score lines in the tile and use tile nippers to follow the contours. 

10.) Choose the Right Grout

Choosing the Right Grout is as important as choosing the right tile. When choosing a grout there are 3 typical types to choose from. 

#1.) Sanded Grout

Sanded grout is a grout that contains larger aggregate sand that is used for larger spacing applications greater than ⅛”. So if you are using a ¼” tile spacer in your project you’ll want to make sure you choose a sanded grout for your application. 

#2.) Non-sanded grout

Non-sanded on the other hand is a finer grout and is used for tile applications where the spacing between tiles is < ⅛”. With either sanded or non-sanded grout, you want to make sure you seal the grout with a grout sealant to keep out dirt and grime. 

#3.) Epoxy Grout

Unlike Sanded and Non-Sanded Grout which are cement based products, epoxy grout is epoxy based which makes it very durable, waterproof, and resistant to cracks and staining.  However, the application process is more challenging, is higher cost, and has a more plastic like appearance. 

My Grouting Tips:

In most flooring applications, I always like to choose a grout that is as close to the floor tile as possible to minimize the discrepancies that can be created from dirt and grime build up but that’s just my personal preference.

To install sanded/non-sanded grout, you mix it like you would mortar but slightly more watery and then spread it across the tile application with a rubber float. After it hazes over for about 30 minutes, use a sponge to wipe off any excess. (I personally like to use a disposable head mop to save my back and knees as much as possible.)

So that’s it for my 10 Tiling Tips! I hope they’re helpful as you tackle your next (or first) DIY Tile project. If you liked this content, here are some more tips/tricks you might enjoy!

Tile Like a Pro | Tips from an Old World Craftsman

10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro!

Good luck and thanks for following!

Paint is one of those things that can make a huge difference in a remodel! And fortunately, it’s one of those things that can be done by most homeowners. However, just because most people CAN do it, doesn’t mean most people do it WELL. In this project tutorial I’ll share with you my 10 DIY Tips to Paint Like a Pro that can help you knock out your next pain project smoothly and professionally.

Follow along with the video above for more detail on each tip.

This project contains affiliate links to the The Home Depot. All opinions are herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

#1. Preparation is Essential

Doing adequate preparation is one of those tasks that is essential to a quality result. However, it’s also one of the easiest things to overlook because it takes quite a bit of time. Adequate prep can and should probably take as long or longer than painting itself.

Preparation involves: Patching nail holes and cracks, caulking gaps, protecting floors & furniture, masking, and using drops cloths or plastic to shield off the room from other areas of the house.

#2. Minimize Plastics or Use Thicker/Larger Pieces

This is more of a personal preference than anything but it drives me nuts to see how much plastic people throw away on a simple painting job. I’m a bit of an environmentalist so if I can minimize waste on a project I tend to try to do whatever I can to make it happen. That means I always use 6 mil or thicker plastic and I always try to use it in large sheets so I can save it after the project. I also try to use drop cloths, cardboard, or tarps as much as possible instead of buying additional plastics.

#3. Get the Right Tools

Just because you are a DIYer doesn’t mean you should do things super cheap. You’re saving a lot of money on labor by tackling your own paint project; however, that doesn’t mean you have to make it hard on yourself. If you don’t already have the right tools for the job, go and get them! Either rent or buy the right tools to make your life easier. You’ll be glad that you spent a little extra to save yourself a headache.

#4: Primer Is Your Friend

A quality primer is your best friend and shouldn’t be skipped. If you’re in an older home you may be going over an oil based (or hopefully not lead) paint. Without a quality primer, a water based paint will peel right off without adhesion. Using primer will help create a secure bond between raw wood, previously painted surfaces, raw drywall, etc. Not to mention that primer is cheaper than paint and adding a coat of primer typically cuts down on the amount of paint you’ll need to apply.

#5: Don’t Cheap Out on Painter’s Tape

I try not to rely heavily on painter’s tapes for a few reasons. #1.) It’s wasteful (and I’m a bit of a hippie) and #2.) It lulls you into a false sense of security and encourages you to get sloppy. When using tapes, I always like to reach for FrogTape over the traditional Blue tape. It adheres better and creates a tight seal on the edges keeping the paint from getting a muddied/blotchiness when you peel it off. If you have to touch up all the edges after you’ve peeled the tape off then it hasn’t saved you any time. Use it sparingly and…

#6: Learn to Cut In Properly

Follow along with the video to see what I mean by this. I place the heel of the brush about an inch from the cut edge and then fan the brush towards the cut edge until I get there. Then I go up and down along the edge with the knife edge of the brush and feather the finish out a few inches away from the cut edge. (Makes more sense if you just watch the video)

#7. Roll Towards the Roller Handle

Always roll in the direction of the roller handle. The handle side applies pressure (and thus paint) to the wall. As it goes outwards towards the end, the pressure is diminished meaning it feathers the finish naturally. This will help you get nice feathered finishes without paint lines. Work in about 24″ sections at a time going up and down the wall.

#8. Label Your Paint Cans

If you have any leftover paint at the end of a job, make sure you label the room you used it for. It’s not always easy to remember which paint is which when you’re digging through paint cans in the shed. Labeling your paint cans helps you keep things organized. You can also take a picture of the label or write down the name of the paint shade on the label as well. Over time the ink from the store labels fades away so if you have to buy more of that shade, it can be hard to remember the name. Writing it down or having a picture reference helps immensely.

#9. Clean Your Brushes (and Rollers) Properly

Follow along with the video to see how I like to clean (and store) my brushes. To do it properly, I like to use a painter’s tool or brush comb and work away from the handle. Tilt the brush away from you in the sink or running water and let the water run towards the bristle ends. Use the comb to work between the fibers until everything runs clear and the brush fibers move freely. Store the brush in the original packaging or make a newspaper sleeve to keep them lasting a long time.

#10. Re-Use Your Materials

Not only am I a bit of a hippie, but I’m also cheap! Re-using materials can save you a lot of money! I like to store all my paint supplies in large tubs so I always have my stuff in one place. If you clean things well you can re-use almost everything from one job to the next which will save you a ton of money in the long run.

So that’s it for this tutorial! I hope you enjoyed these 10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro and hope they help you get a killer result on your next DIY painting project. If you liked it, please leave a comment on the video and let me know. Or feel free to share it with a friend who might find it helpful.

You might also like some of these Tips & Tricks.

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Disclosure: This article contains a paid product integration by Trane Residential. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

Why Change Your Filters?

Your home breathes just like we do. Dust, smoke, dirt, mold, fumes, and other elements from the outside are brought in every time you open a door or window and even with changes in pressure systems due to weather events. These things end up in the air in your home and it’s the responsibility of your heating & cooling system to circulate, collect, and filter these particles out of the air and deliver you clean, temperature controlled air back to keep your home both comfortable and clean.

In order for your heating and cooling systems to work properly, they need to be able to pull air in. A filter that is old and dirty is like going for a jog with a plastic bag over your head with only a tiny pinhole poked in it! Not only is your body going to have to work harder to try and keep you going, but you’re also probably not going to make it very far before you collapse due to asphyxiation. Your home’s heating and cooling system is no different. When the filter is plugged or dirty, it has to work harder to do its job. With prolonged neglect, the components will overheat, wear out, or fail entirely which can lead to thousands of dollars in repairs or replacements.

Fortunately changing the air filters in your home is typically one of the simplest (and most inexpensive) DIY jobs a homeowner can do. It usually requires very few (if any) tools so even the most inexperienced people can do it.

How to Locate Your Filter

Depending on your home’s heating and cooling system, you may have one or several filters. Typically a home that has a single furnace/cooling system only has one filter while a larger home that has multiple heating/cooling zones may have more than one. In either case, locating your furnace is usually a good place to start. Check your utility closet, or basement to find your system. The filter on your furnace may be attached to the side in an enclosure, or it may be inside the unit under a cover. If so, turn the power off to the furnace before changing the filter to avoid damaging any components.

If you have a roof mounted or attic based system, the filter may also be mounted to the ceiling in a hallway or living area under a grate. In all cases, the filter is on the air intake/return of your HVAC system as it filters the air that is pulled into the system.

Changing Your Filter(s)

Once you’ve located your HVAC system and filter, all that’s left to do is change the filter!

Step #1: Remove the Cover Grate

Overhead filters usually have a grate door which can swing down to access the filter, while furnace filters may be under the unit or beside it. Some filters may be held in with a wire or retaining clip.

Step #2: Remove the Dirty Filter

You know a filter is in need of replacement if you have trouble seeing light through it, or it is visibly dirty. When in doubt, it doesn’t hurt to replace it especially if it’s been more than 6 months since it was last changed.

Step #3: Make Sure You Buy the Proper Size Replacement

Knowing the size of the air filter you are replacing is important to make sure you are replacing it with the proper sized replacement. The size of your filter is listed on the filter itself typically as a 3 number combination (e.g. 16 x 25 x 1) When shopping for a replacement filter, you will need these numbers to buy the correct replacement.

For replacement filters, I recommend you use the new Trane Comfort Performance Filters which you can find at Walmart.com. Trane has been a leading manufacturer of HVAC systems for decades and their new Comfort Performance filters are compatible with virtually all HVAC systems.

Step #4: Replace Your Air Filter

Before re-installing your filter, it’s a good idea to place the date on the side of the filter so you have a reference for when it was last changed next time you check it. It’s also not a bad idea to set yourself a reminder on your calendar to change it again in 3-6 months.

Reinstall your new air filter (paying attention to the arrow on the side that indicates air flow direction), re-attach any retaining wires or clips, and close any grates or doors that you previously opened to access the filter. Also be sure to remember to turn the power back on to the furnace or system if you turned it off.

So that’s it for this project! It’s a simple periodic maintenance task you should add to your to-do list to keep your home’s HVAC system in good shape. It’s inexpensive, and will keep your system running properly for years if you keep up with it. Much like your car, regular preventative maintenance goes a long way towards keeping your home in good working order.

Thanks for reading this article. If you enjoyed it, here are some other projects you might also enjoy. See you next time!

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10 Ways to Warm Your Home and LOWER Your Energy Bill

How to Monitor Your Homes Energy Usage

The team at Cub Cadet sent me their NEW all electric CC30e lawn mower to put to the test

Disclosure: This video and article contains a paid product integration by Cub Cadet. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

The Battery System

The yard is just over an acre in size and we were able to tackle the whole thing on a single full charge. This mower is powered by a single brush-less motor and the blade itself is directly powered by the motor so there’s no changing of belts or anything like that. The mower plugs in using the included cable via a standard 110v outlet. It takes about 4 hours to fully charge.

What’s nice is that you can still operate the mower at a partial charge without needing to fully charge the unit before operating it. The remaining charge is indicated next to the mower start button. 

Usability

One of the most noticeable differences between the CC30e and a standard gas mower is the sound. When you get on the unit and start it, it doesn’t make a sound beyond a beep. The mower operates virtually silent without the blade engaged. Even when the blade is engaged, it’s substantially less noisy. So now you can operate early in the morning or later in the evening without bothering your neighbors. 

For ease of use, this mower is about as user friendly as it gets. It’s one of the most straightforward mowers I’ve ever used. You control the throttle via a single pedal on the driver’s right foot, a brake with the left foot, and reverse with a single button. There’s a parking brake switch, and even cruise control for those longer straight runs. It even includes operator presence safety, meaning it shuts off if you get off.

No Assembly Required!

The mower comes fully assembled and ready to go out of the box once it’s been charged fully with the only assembly being whether you’d like to utilize the mulching/bagging feature or the side discharge attachment for the mower deck. 

For cutting height, you have 5 cut heights ranging from 1.5” to 4”. These are easily adjustable with the lever on the driver’s right side and a cutting area of 30”. 

Final Thoughts

Overall I really like this mower. I think it’s pretty obvious that the future of power tools and yard equipment is headed towards all electric. This mower proves that you can have the performance of a gas machine with much less maintenance. This mower doesn’t need any oil changes, filter changes, or spark plug changes. As long as you keep the blades sharp and the battery charged, you’re good to go. 

I think this mower is a great tool for the average homeowner with a small to medium sized lot that is relatively flat. I do think if you had a larger or bumpy lawn, having a suspension system would be helpful. Additionally if you have a yard that’s relatively wide open, you may want a wider deck. My brother’s lawn is pretty large, but it was a more than capable machine to handle it. 

If you have any further questions about this mower, feel free to leave them in the comments down below and I will do my best to answer them. Or you can visit their website at cubcadet.com.

I want to say a quick thank you to Cub Cadet for sending this lawnmower for me to test out. If you’re in the market for something similar I’d highly recommend you check it out before you make your purchase. You can’t beat the no maintenance aspect of an electric mower and it’s really cool to finally see a riding mower that is capable of actually replacing the need for a gas mower. 

If you liked this post, check out these outdoor projects as well!

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DIY Raised Planter Box (w/ Hidden Wheels)

Thank you so much for watching and I’ll see you next time!

Summertime means cranking that air conditioning in the house to cool it down which can really impact your home’s energy consumption. Today I’m here to share a few things that you can do around your home to help make your space more comfortable and energy efficient, which reduces your impact on the environment.

So let’s get started!

#1: Replace Your Indoor and Outdoor Light Bulbs with LED’s

Replacing your light bulbs is one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to make your home more energy efficient. Typical CFL or older
incandescent bulbs use anywhere from 40w-100w a piece and the newer LED equivalents typically range from 10-20w for the same light output.
They’re a little more expensive on the front end, but their bulb life is exponentially longer and the cost savings on your energy bill adds up quickly.

Many people may think to replace their interior bulbs. Also, consider replacing exterior landscape bulbs and motion lights. It’s not uncommon for exterior bulbs to be 150w so replacing them can add up to
significant savings over time.

#2: Inspect Your Attic Insulation and Replace it if Necessary

One specific area to consider is your attic. If you’re like me, it’s not an area you particularly like to work in. Still, it’s a vital part of keeping your home as efficient as possible. It keeps heat in during the winter, but it also helps keep the heat of your roof from radiating into your living space in the summer.

Go into your attic and make sure that insulation coats the entire living space. It may be blown in, in batt form, or a combination of the two. If your insulation is sporadic, very thin, or has been infested with critters, consider having it replaced or adding additional insulation on top.

#3: Update Your Old Thermostat to a New Smart Thermostat

Upgrading your HVAC themostat provides
another environmentally friendly tool in saving energy. A programmable thermostat allows you to set back your home’s temperature when you’re away, such as at work for the day or on a lengthy vacation. For instance, you can program up to 4 schedules a day, 7 days a week. Smart versions like the Trane Connected Thermostat – XL 824 or XL1050 – expand those capabilities and give you the ability to adjust settings from anywhere when preferences or plans change.

In fact, these thermostats are so advanced, they also come with other key features like Wi-Fi connection, built-in
Nexia Bridge (which gives you the flexibility to remotely monitor and control over other smart home devices such as your home’s lights, locks, and even your garage).

#4: Clean Your HVAC Condenser and Change Your Air Filters

One of the easiest ways to make sure your HVAC system is functioning properly and not overworking is to connect with your local HVAC technician for a seasonal maintenance. Trane provides an awesome certified contractor locator to help you find a company nearby to come evaluate your system. Another option is to follow these basic steps to cleaning the outside condenser and change the air filter inside. 

1.) To clean your condenser coil, first make sure power is shut off to the unit by turning off the power at the disconnect near the unit. 2.) Use a shop vac with a soft bristle attachment to vacuum any loose material or debris that may be inhibiting the cooling coils from working properly. 3.) Use a foaming condenser cleaning product to spray all over the condenser and let it soak for about 10 minutes. 4.) Then rinse the coil with clear low pressure water to remove remaining dirt and debirs. 5.) After that, you’re good to turn the power back on. 

You should do this about once a year to make sure your condenser is clean and working properly. Also, while you’re at it, make sure that there are no plants or obstructions within about 12” all around the unit that make it hard for the unit to breathe properly. If there are, make sure to trim it back. Changing your filter is simple. Just find your air intake for your unit and replace it with the proper size filter. You can find the size you need written right on the side of the previous filter. I recommend you do this around every 3-6 months. 

#5: Replace Old Single Pane Windows with New Energy Star Rated Options

Adding replacement windows or updating windows around your home during a remodel project is a great way to improve the overall energy efficiency of your home. Old single pane windows allow the heat of the sun’s rays to radiate into the home. This can significantly raise the interior temperature which means your A/C system needs to work harder to cool the home.

New double paned windows have an insulating gas between the panes which allows for less heat energy transfer into the home and thus are much more energy efficient. A local window expert can help you decide on what types of windows are right for your home.

Hopefully these tips help give you some ideas to get your home’s energy consumption under control. Not only will it help save you money, but it can help lessen your environmental impact. If you are considering making some energy efficient improvements, I recommend looking at your local utility company’s website. Oftentimes, you can find rebates for energy efficient upgrades to your home that can help you offset those initial costs. Your local and state governments may also have some incentives to take advantage of. All it takes is a little research. 

I’d like to thank the Trane team for sending over the XL824 connected thermostat I installed in the video and for making this project possible. If you’d like some more information on additional energy efficient upgrades you can do around your home, check out Trane’s website.

Thank you, for watching and if it’s your first time visiting the channel, please hit that subscribe button and hit that notification bell so you never miss out on any of the new content I put out. And as always, I encourage you to leave me a comment
down below and let me know what energy improvements you plan on tackling down the road.

Thanks so much for watching and I’ll see you next time.

Top 5 DIY Ways to Get Rid of Ants

5 DIY Electrical Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

This particular faucet is a Moen Oxby widespread faucet which means the sink has 3 holes and the outer holes are more than 4” apart. The install principles will be the same with most widespread faucets. It can take a little patience, but the end product will be worth it. 

#1: Remove the Old Faucet

Once you have the proper style faucet for your sink, step #1 is to remove the old faucet (if you are replacing it with a new one). This is a newly remodeled bathroom so I don’t have an old one to remove in this case. Make sure you remove any old caulk or sealants as well as any old gaskets that may be present so you have a nice clean sink to work with. 

#2: Install the Spout and Handles

Next, install the faucet spout and stem assembly by applying some thread tape to the stem and threading it onto the spout assembly. Apply a small bead of plumbers putty around the base of the spout assembly and Insert the spout assembly into the center hole of the sink. Mount it in place with the included hardware kit and tighten it in place using the included valve socket wrench. 

Next, thread the mounting nut and mounting washer to the valve assemblies and apply a small bead of plumbers putty around the base of the upper washer. Insert the valves assemblies from the underside of the sink and secure them in place with a washer and retaining clip. Make sure the blue colored cold valve goes in the right hole and the red colored hot valve goes in the left hole. Tighten the mounting nuts from underside to tighten the valve in place.

From there, install the faucet handles by threading them onto the valve assemblies and tightening them by hand. 

Slide the lift rod into place in the hole in the backside of the faucet. Next you can start on installing the drain assembly.

#3: Starting the Drain Assembly

Unscrew the top of the drain assembly called a waste seat and apply a bead of plumbers putty around the underside before inserting it into the drain hole in the sink. Apply some thread tape onto the drain assembly and then thread it into the waste seat from the underside and tighten it down. Make sure the threaded hole that protrudes out on drain pipe is facing the back and tighten the drain nut to secure it and the gasket in place making it water tight. You should have some squeeze out of plumbers putty in the sink itself which you can simply wipe away. 

From there you can move onto attaching the lift rod and the sink plug. Add some thread tape to the hole on the backside of the drain assembly, slide the locking nut over the ball rod, and insert it into the hole. Tighten the nut as much as possible by hand. Attach the lift strap to the lift rod and the ball rod and secure it in place with the locking clamp and tighten the screw on the lift rod. You can adjust how the lift rod operates by sliding it up and down the holes on the strapping. Make sure it works for you and then move on to installing the water lines. 

#4: Finishing the Drain Assembly and Water Lines

Attach the diverter hose by snapping the ends over the valve bodies, and the faucet stem assembly. You’ll know they’re seated properly when you hear a click. 

Assemble the P trap assembly by sliding the washer and slip nut over the end of the joint elbow, and wrap the thread in thread tape. Connect the trap, and elbow by tightening the nut by hand. Add the down pipe to the drain assembly by sliding the slip nut and washer over the drain assembly, and slide the trap assembly into the drain pipe in the wall. Once you have everything aligned, tighten the slip nuts at each joint by hand before snugging them up with a pair of channel lock pliers. 

Install your water lines from the valves and connect them to the new valves on the faucet. And lastly, turn the water on at the valves, check to see that the faucet is working properly, and check the drain assembly for any leaks. If you have a small leak, try tightening the nuts further with your pliers. And that’s it, you are done with this project. 

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. Plumbing projects can take a little bit to get used to and obviously each faucet is a little different but once you get the hang of the basics, installing a new faucet is definitely something most homeowners can tackle on their own. 

As always I encourage you to leave me a comment down below and let me know what you thought of the project and what type of project you’d like to see me tackle next. If you liked this project, check out my tutorial on unclogging a bathroom sink. Thank you for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

Sod is a popular option in many renovations because it gives you the option of having an instant green lawn without going through the long process of seeding and growing a lawn. This project isn’t too difficult, but it is a bit labor intensive depending on the state and size of your project area.

#1: Preparing the Area

I am starting with a newly created area that I added with the construction of some retaining walls. The first step was to add fill dirt to the area. Then I could compact it to minimize settling. 

If you are replacing a current lawn, your first step will be to kill the existing lawn and remove it. Don’t install sod over existing grass because the existing lawn will decompose underneath and heat up killing the sod above. 

Once you’ve killed and removed the existing lawn, you can then use a rototiller to prep the area and loosen the existing soil. In my case, I brought the grade up using basic fill dirt. Then I added a few inches of top soil to bring it up to the grade that I needed. 

You’ll also need to make sure you have irrigation installed in the sod area. This is crucial if you’re living in a dry climate. Sod requires regular watering to successfully root so having an irrigation system or regular watering schedule is necessary for success.

You’ll need to make sure your irrigation system has head-to-head coverage so that  your sod is fully watered. If you’d like some tips on how to install a sprinkler system, I’ll walk you through the process here.

From there, use a large rake to fine grade the area. Depending on the sod you choose, you’ll want to make sure the finished grade is that thickness below any walkways or driveways. In my case, the finished grade is ½” below the surrounding patio. Apply a sod starter fertilizer/seed starter over the area and then use a roller to settle and firm the surface.

#2: Installing the Sod

Measure the area you’ll be installing and order your sod. Many sod distributors can deliver same day or next day and once it arrives, begin installing it immediately as it needs to be installed before drying out and wilting in the sun. Make sure you have the day set aside to tackle the project in one go when deciding when to have the sod delivered if you’re having it delivered. 

In this case, I’m installing a Marathon II sod which is dense, durable, and quick to recover. I recommend finding a sod dealer in your area that can help you choose which sod is best for your application and climate. Sod pricing can vary greatly depending on your area, so do some research on expected pricing for your area. 

The sod arrives on a pallet and in strips. Start by laying the sod along the longest edge or boundary first and stagger each new row in a brick like pattern. Cut the sod around any obstacles or edges with a large knife or spade shovel. I found using a drywall knife actually worked pretty well. You just have to clean it well afterwards. 

Make sure you’re bumping the edges of each piece of sod tightly to those around it and water lightly once you’ve installed every 200sq ft of sod.  

#3: Preparing the Sod to Last

Once you’ve covered the entire area, use the roller to roll the entire area and insure solid contact between the sod and the soil beneath. 

Next turn on the sprinkler system and let it run until the sod is good and soaked. Check the recommended guidelines for watering schedule of your chosen side. In my case, I watered 3 times a day for the first week, and then scale back to twice a day for the rest of the month. Once established, I scaled it back further to a couple times a week. Try to water as early in the morning as possible but not before 4am. 

Even though it may seem early, make sure you cut the sod a week after installation or once it reaches around 3”-3.5” tall and fertilize it once a month thereafter for best results. And that’s it, you’re done with your project.

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. Installing sod can be a bit labor intensive but installing it is definitely something most homeowners can tackle on their own.

Thanks for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

In this project I’m going to show you how to monitor your home’s energy usage by installing a Sense Home Energy Monitoring Device that you can monitor right from your phone or tablet. This device allows you to view your home’s energy usage in real-time on your phone. With that information you can determine which areas of your home to focus on improving.

Disclosure: This video and article contains an unpaid product integration by Sense. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

One of the things I’m very passionate about is finding ways to make my home more energy efficient. A few months ago I learned about a product called Sense. Sense is an energy monitoring device that installs into your breaker panel and allows you to see how much power each device in your home uses. You can use that information to make more energy efficient improvements to your home. 

Disclaimer:

I’d like to remind you that I am not a licensed electrician. If at any point you are not comfortable tackling this project on your own, please reach out to an electrician that can help you with the installation. This is designed to be a guide to show you how it can be done, but does not replace the expertise or knowledge of a licensed electrician. 

Installing the Device:

The first step to installing this device is unpacking the box and taking a look at all the components. The package contains with a device monitor, an antenna, 2 sensor clips, a power cable, and an optional mounting bracket.

Next you’ll have to get access to your main breaker panel, and shut the power off. Remove the cover panel and have a look at your breaker setup. This device requires that it be wired into a dual pole 220v breaker which is not included in the kit so if you don’t have one available that you can tap into, you’ll have to buy one that matches your panel. If you do need to purchase a breaker, you’ll also have to verify that your breaker panel has space available to install it.

Installing the Antenna

Once you’ve verified you have space available for the install, remove a knock out from the panel box and install the antenna into the hole. From there you can connect the antenna to the device monitor itself. If you don’t have room inside the panel, you can use the optional monitor bracket to install it outside the panel.

Wiring the Device

Install your new breaker if you need to or connect the wiring to your existing breaker. The black and red wires connect to the breaker itself, and the white wire attaches to the neutral bar in your panel.

Connecting the Service Clips

Now this is where things get dangerous if you’re not familiar with your panel box. You’ll need to connect the current sensor clips around the service legs coming into your panel. These 2 wires ARE ALWAYS LIVE even if your panel box is shut off. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES TOUCH THEM. In my case, these wires are hidden underneath the meter on the panel which is secured by the power company with a lock which I didn’t have a key for. So I called my local power company and asked them to come out and shut off the power and remove the lock so that I could access those wires. Since they shut the power service off to the house, there was no danger of me being shocked when I connected the clips. Once I had them installed, they replaced the meter and turned the power back on.

Once I had the wiring all connected, I removed the necessary knockouts on the cover of my breaker panel, reinstalled it, and turned the main power back on at the breaker. From there, the device fires up and starts it’s process.

Download and Set Up the App

Next I downloaded the Sense App on my phone, and began the setup process. It connects via WiFi and prompts you to setup your device. Once logged in, it takes a couple days to calibrate and then it starts the process of identifying devices around your home.

Identifying Devices

The device shows exact energy usage in real-time and starts to identify different devices around your home automatically. It has a smart learning algorithm that can determine which devices are which and starts to label them around your home. You can verify or change the name of the device right in the app. As more homes connect to the app, it continues to learn and define new devices.

You can go around and flip devices on and off and see the effect on your energy usage in real-time. And you can set goals with notifications to keep your energy consumption down, see which devices are using the highest percentage of power, get pretty accurate estimates on your energy bills by inputting your typical costs. They also offer a solar option which will tell you how much energy your solar panels are producing and how much they are offsetting your energy bill if you have solar panels.

Review

Overall, this is a really cool device. It’s helped me realize how inefficient my home is when it comes to heating and air conditioning. I didn’t realize how many hours those devices run on a daily basis which drastically affects my utility bill. Moving forward I’ll be taking that information to continue to invest in ways to offset that energy usage.

I think a device like this can definitely be useful for someone like myself who owns an older, fixer upper that is looking to improve its efficiency. The Sense device can help tell you where your energy and thus where your money is going. This can help you prioritize where you focus your remodel efforts. And over time, this could save you a lot of money. 

I hope you guys enjoyed this project. I’d like to thank the Sense team for sending over this device and allowing me to test it out. 

Check out some of my other home energy & electrical tutorials:

10 DIY Ways to Warm Your Home and Lower Your Heat Bill

How to Install a Post Lamp