This post contains paid product mention from GE. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Step 1: Diagnose the Problem

In this case, the leak in the garage below only seemed to occur during showers. This indicates water was escaping outside the shower—likely due to improper use of a shower curtain or gaps in the sealant at the tub’s edges. To fix this, resealing the tub and shower was the best solution.

Step 2: Remove the Old Sealant

The first and most time-consuming step is removing the old sealant. Use a utility knife, razor blade scraper, or trowel to scrape off all the old material. Be thorough—clean edges are essential for the new sealant to adhere properly.

Step 3: Choose the Right Sealant

For flexible, modern fiberglass tubs, a durable sealant is key. GE Sealant Supreme Silicone is an excellent choice. It’s 100% waterproof, offers permanent flexibility, and withstands the natural movement of the tub over time.

Step 4: Prepare the Tub

Before sealing, fill the tub with water. This step applies maximum pressure to the tub’s joints, ensuring the sealant can adjust and contract properly once the water is removed.

Use painter’s tape along the edges of the tub to create clean lines. This simple trick helps achieve a professional-looking finish, even if your application isn’t perfect.

Step 5: Apply the Sealant

Start with the areas where the tub meets the tile. If the tile work is neat, a clear silicone sealant is ideal because it blends seamlessly and doesn’t draw attention. For areas where the grout lines or edges are uneven, like where the tub meets the floor, white silicone is better at covering imperfections.

Apply steady, even pressure while running the sealant along the edges. Once you’ve finished, carefully peel off the painter’s tape before the sealant dries.

Step 6: Let It Cure

Leave the water in the tub for a few hours after sealing, then drain it to allow the sealant to fully cure. This ensures a watertight bond that will last.

Bonus Tip: Save Your Leftover Sealant

Don’t toss the leftover silicone! Wrap the tip of the tube with painter’s tape to keep it sealed and ready for your next project.

Why Resealing Is Important

Resealing your bathtub and shower is a simple yet essential DIY task that prevents water damage, mold growth, and costly repairs. Plus, with quality products like GE Sealant Supreme Silicone, you’ll get a long-lasting, professional-grade result.

Shop DIY Essentials:
Get all the products featured in this tutorial—including the GE Sealant Supreme Silicone—on my Amazon storefront here.

With these steps, your bathtub and shower will be sealed for good, saving you time, stress, and money. Ready to tackle your own DIY sealing project? Good luck!

This post contains paid product mention from BioBidet by Bemis. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Enhanced Personal Hygiene:

In my opinion, bidets provide a superior level of cleanliness compared to traditional toilet paper. The gentle water spray effectively cleanses without the abrasiveness of paper, leaving you feeling fresh and confident after every use. This can be particularly beneficial for individuals with sensitive skin or those prone to irritation (like myself). TMI? Maybe but this post is about washing your butt so get over it!

Reduction in Toilet Paper Usage:

One of the most compelling benefits of bidets is their potential to significantly reduce toilet paper consumption. As a result, this does a few beneficial things.

1. Eco-Friendly: With a bidet, you’ll use less toilet paper, contributing to a more sustainable and eco-friendly lifestyle. And while it may seem counter intuitive, Bidets contribute to water conservation by using significantly less water than the production and disposal processes associated with toilet paper.
2. Cost Savings in the Long Run: While the initial investment in a bidet may seem higher than purchasing toilet paper, the long-term savings can be substantial.
3. Less Plumbing Issues: Considering the reduced need for toilet paper, you’re likely to have less clogs and overall plumbing issues as a result.

Health Benefits:

Bidets have been associated with various health benefits. They can help prevent and alleviate conditions such as hemorrhoids and urinary tract infections. The gentle water stream promotes better hygiene in sensitive areas, reducing the risk of irritation and infection. I’ve personally dealt with irritation and hemorrhoid issues in the past. Utilizing a bidet has literally been a night and day difference for me in my day-to-day comfort level. In my home I’ve installed the BioBidet USPA Pro in several bathrooms and absolutely love it!

Accessible for All Ages:

Bidets are inclusive and can benefit individuals of all ages, from children to the elderly. These groups can especially benefit from the use of a bidet as some may have difficulty adequately cleaning themselves after using the restroom. Bidets provide an easy and effective way to maintain personal hygiene, making them a valuable addition to households with diverse age groups.

Comfort: 

Gone are the days of sitting down to a chilled toilet seat in the winter months and utilizing frigid water to cleanse yourself! Modern bidets offer a comfortable heated alternative. Many have heated seats, adjustable water temperature, and included warm air dryers to maximize comfort. Check out the full list of units available at biobidet.com and see which features are right for you!

Incorporating a bidet into your bathroom routine is not just a trend. For me, it’s a decision that aligns with health, sustainability, and comfort. From reducing environmental impact to enhancing personal hygiene, the benefits of bidets are numerous. Make the switch today and experience a revolutionary upgrade to your bathroom routine. Your body, your wallet, and the planet will thank you.

Ready to get started?

Visit biobidet.com and check out their full lineup of bidets and choose the one that’s right for you! Use Promo Code FIXIT10 at checkout for 10% OFF! Good luck and happy flushing!

Be honest, when was the last time you drained and flushed your hot water tank/heater? Last year? 5 years ago? Never?!?! Did you even know that was something you should be doing semi-regularly? Well I can assure you that not only is it something you SHOULD be doing, it’s something you should be doing every year!

Why Should I Drain my Water Heater?

Most homeowners I talk to have never drained and flushed their water heater. Understandable I suppose, it’s not something you learn about in school so if you never knew you were supposed to, why would you? Flushing your water tank is really simple and it helps prolong the life of the tank. Over time, lime, calcium, and other minerals in your water can create deposits in the tank. (Especially if you have hard water) Periodically draining and flushing your water tank helps loosen sediments that build up and cause problems with the heating elements. Over time, deposits and corrosion can shorten the life of the tank. There’s never a good time to not have hot water in your home! Now’s the time to add it to your to-do list! Here’s how to do it!

Step #1: Turn off the Power & Supply Valve

Either shut off the gas at the shutoff valve (Typically a valve connected to a yellow flex gas line running to the tank), or unplug the tank if it’s an electric tank. (You can also turn off the breaker to the water heater if you’re uncomfortable unplugging or unsure.)

Also close the cold water supply line valve. There’s typically a valve at the top of the tank. (If you’re not sure, you can CAREFULLY touch your hand on the pipes at the top to see which one is warm and which is cold. Don’t burn yourself! You want to shut off the cold supply line.) If you don’t have a valve there, shut the water off at the closest available shutoff OR you can shut off the main valve to the house if you need to.

Step #2: Connect a Hose to the Drain Valve

If you don’t have an already established drain line, connect a garden hose to the drain outlet on the bottom of the tank. REMEMBER THAT THE WATER IN THE TANK IS HOT! Either let the tank sit idle for a few hours, or carefully direct the hose outside or into your sump pump if you have one. Make sure the hose is directed to a safe place where no children or pets can be scalded by hot water.

Step #3:  Open the Drain Valve

Open the drain valve and allow all the water in the tank to run out. Depending on the size of the tank, this can take 15-20 minutes to drain. You’ll typically need a flat head screwdriver to open the valve.

Step #4: Turn the Water Back On

Once the water stops running from the hose, turn the water back on. You’ll want to allow the tank to flush directly out the hose for a few minutes. After that, I recommend you close the drain valve and allow the tank to fill at least halfway or so. Allow the tank to fill for 10-12 minutes.

Step #5: Shut Off the Water Again and Repeat Flush

Basically you’re going to do the same thing again. Shut off the water supply and open the drain valve. You’ve just flushed the tank to get the water to stir up any loose sediment and get it to be able to drain from the tank. Allow all the water to run from the tank again.

Before you turn the water back I recommend you also check the Anode Rod.

What is The Anode Rod?

Most homeowners I talk to don’t know what an anode rod is let alone know that it’s something that needs to be maintained with your hot water heater. The Anode Rod is a piece of sacrificial metal (usually magnesium or aluminum) that is located within your water heater. It attracts the corrosive elements of your water like calcium away from the internal components of the tank and your tank walls.

Changing your anode rod should be done every few years to make sure the life of your water heater isn’t shortened prematurely because of corrosion.

Step #6: Check or Replace the Anode Rod

The anode rod is mounted to the top of the tank and is threaded in place within the tank. Use a socket wrench or pliers to unthread the rod and check it for wear. If it is badly corroded or completely disintegrated, you need to replace it. Do a quick google search to find a replacement rod for your particular brand of water heater.

Once you reinstall the new anode rod…

Step #7: Reconnect the Heater

Make sure all valves and fittings are tightened and then turn the water supply valve back on for the tank allowing it to fill once again. Re-open the gas valve and follow all safety instructions to re-ignite the heater if you have a gas tank. CAUTION: Failure to follow ignition instructions can cause injury or death. Carefully follow all instructions. 

If you have an electric heater, plug it back in or turn the breaker back on to the unit.

How Do I Know if it’s Time to Replace My Water Heater?

There are several warning signs that your water heater might be on the outs! Here are a few things to look out for. Some issues can be repaired with new parts, while other issues may indicate the need for a new heater. Here’s what to look out for.

1.) Over 10 Years Old

If your water tank is over 10 years old, it might be time for a replacement. If you’re not having problems yet there’s no need to swap it right away, BUT you should probably budget for a new one because you’ll inevitably need one in the next couple years. Electric tanks typically have a little longer life span but both can be shortened by hard water.

2.) Leaking

If your tank is leaking, that’s a big sign that it needs replacing. It often happens on older tanks where corrosion and rust are problems. Sometimes it can be the result of keeping the temperature on the tank set too high or a faulty pressure relief valve. Over time that increased pressure can cause wear on the components.

A leaking tank can be extremely dangerous if not addressed as a leak indicates an issue with the integrity of the tank that can lead to a tank explosion! BAD NEWS BEARS!

3.) Discolored or Cold Water

If you’re getting rusty colored water or cold water after a short period of time, that could be an indication that your water heater needs attention. Especially with the latter. Old houses can have old galvanized pipes which corrode a lot so it may not be indicative of a faulty tank BUT if you’re noticing that AND a change in water temperature, you’re likely having an issue with the tank.

It could be that a heating element needs replacing because it has corroded. OR you may need to replace the tank itself. In either case, a closer inspection is warranted to find the problem.

Installing a New Water Heater

WARNING: Installing a new water heater carries the risk of electrical shock and/or exposure to gas fumes/vapors and can carry the risk of explosion if not done correctly. 

Installing a new water heater isn’t a job for the faint of heart and can be a little dangerous IF you don’t know what you’re doing. It is a task that a handy homeowner can accomplish on their own BUT as always it’s something that needs to be done carefully and correctly. If there are any doubts about your ability to do it, I’d recommend that you leave it to a professional.

Need to Replace an Electric Water Heater?

Check out the New High-Efficiency Rheem ProTerra Hydrbid Electric Water Heater with Leak Guard. 

The Rheem ProTerra Hybrid Electric Water Heater is 4x more efficient than a standard electric water heater, and has an automatic water shut-off in the event of a leak to provide additional peace of mind. You can also control the settings of your water heater directly from your mobile device for added flexibility and is installed just like a standard electric water heater.

If you enjoyed this content, check out some of these other DIY home maintenance projects.

It’s Time to Change Your Home’s Air Filters!

How to Install a Home Water Filtration System

Tackling a tile installation job in your home is one of those projects many homeowners steer clear of. While installing tile on your own can be a little tricky, once you’ve done it a few times, have the right tools, and a little bit of confidence, it’s a great skillset you can add to your arsenal. That’s why this week I’ve teamed up with Kobalt Tools to share 10 DIY Tiling Tips to Tile Like a Pro! Follow along with all my tips in the video above or feel free to scroll through them all down below!

For more tips from a Tile Professional, check out my interview with Professional Tile Setter, Adam Esparza of Ale Tile Co. 

This project contains a paid product integration from Kobalt Tools. All opinions herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

1.) Get Yourself the Right Tools

To get a quality installation with your tile, you’ll need some basic tools to get started. I recommend that you have the following tools on hand:

• A hammer
• A pencil
• A level
• A Utility Knife
• A drill and paddle mixer for mixing mortar
• Various notched trowels (1/4″, 5/32″, 3/16″ depending on your application
• A rubber grout float and sponge
• Some knee pads
• A clean bucket
• A tile cutter. (A wet tile saw or tile score and snap tool is really useful especially if you’re doing a larger tile project. However, if you can’t find or rent one, you can also use an angle grinder with a diamond cutoff blade, OR a small saw with a diamond blade like this one with a diamond cutoff blade.)

Thanks to Kobalt Tools for sending over many of the tools you see in this video for to me to put to the test.

2.) Make sure your Subfloor is Flat and Level

When doing a tile floor project you’ll want to make sure your floor is flat and level. You can use either a cement backer board, or what is called a dry pack mortar bed to set your tile on. A backer board application is more DIY friendly but creating your own mortar bed allows you to level uneven surfaces. You can also use a self leveling product to adjust your subfloor first and then apply a backer board or other membrane to tile over. You never want to tile directly over wood as wood expands and contracts in moisture and can cause your tile and grout to crack. 

3.)  Know the difference between mastic and Thin Set Mortar and when to use each

There are 2 main categories of adhesive to choose from when installing tile. 

1.) Mastic:

Commonly sold in stores as “Tile Adhesive”. Mastic is a pre-mixed glue like product and should only be used in primarily dry applications like kitchen backsplashes. Mastic is stickier than mortar so it’s good for vertical wall applications that aren’t exposed to regular moisture. When installing a backsplash with mastic I use a 3/16″ or 5/32” notched trowel to apply mastic to the wall in small working areas, and then press the tile in place on the wall with a grout float to make sure it seats properly. The notches in the trowel help secure the tile and make sure you aren’t over applying too much mastic which will squeeze out and cause problems especially if you’re using small mosaic tiles like these. 

2.)Thin-Set Mortar

Thin-set on the other hand can be used in any application and is my primary method for tile installation. Thin set is sold in bags or boxes and is mixed with water to create a peanut butter like paste. I use thinset for all flooring applications, shower and bath enclosures, and any large format tile installs. Keep your notches running in one direction and make sure that your notches are full. 

4.) Use Layout Lines

In older homes, sometimes the rooms aren’t square and it can be difficult to determine how the tile will look when installed. When installing square or rectangular tiles, I like to always reference the longest wall in the room and draw a line down the middle of the room. I usually add at least 1 perpendicular line as well. I reference these lines as I’m installing the tile to make sure the courses are staying straight to the room. Depending how square or out of square the room is, you can also use the Pathagoreon theorem or 3-4-5 rule to create square lines in the room. 

5.) Setting Your First Course Is Most Important

Installing the first course of tile is the most important to make sure you have a quality install. You can roughly layout tiles in the room to make sure you won’t have sliver cuts at the end as well. I typically like to shift the tile layout so that I have roughly a ½ piece of tile at each wall. Laying out your tile setup in something like Sketchup can also help you determine how to best set your first course. I always like to hide cuts as much as possible outside of the primary eye-line so keeping them along the edge of the room is best in my opinion.  

6.) Know When to Back Butter

A large format tile is a tile that is larger than 12″ x 12″. When installing a large format tile like this it’s important to do a technique called back buttering. Back buttering involves adding a thin coat of thinset to the backside of your tile using the flat side of the trowel. Pressing the tile down into the notches of the mortar on the floor or wall will create a full seat for the tile and not allow for air gaps to be created underneath. Air gaps under the tile can lead to cracks or breaks in the tile down the road if something is dropped in that area. In MOST small tile applications like subway tiles, you likely don’t need to back butter the tiles. 

7.) Trim your Door Casing!

You can almost always tell a professional tile job from a DIY tile job in a few ways. The most common DIY mistake I see is how people handle cuts around door jambs/frames. Many times people elect to cut around the door casing which can look okay if you do it really well BUT you’ve also now encased the door casing in so if you ever want to change it you’ll have to cut it off at the tile. The proper way is to use a tool like an oscillating tool to cut off the casing so you can slide the tile underneath it. It gives you a clean finish and also will allow you to change the casing easily later on if desired. Another mistake I see often is uneven tiles which leads me to my next point.

8.)  Use Tile Leveling Spacers to Minimize Lippage

Tiling is a bit of an imperfect science. There are a lot of variables to getting it to look right. Small changes in the amount of mortar, a floor that isn’t flat, or a random loose stone in your mortar can all affect how the tile sets. I recommend using tile leveling spacers to minimize lippage as much as possible. Lippage occurs when one tile is proud of the other tile which can easily be seen with the eye or felt under foot. Leveling spacers help even out any imperfections in your installation. 

9.) Use an Angle Grinder To Create Radiused or Plunge Cuts

Cutting radius cuts or cuts in the middle of a tile for something like a receptacle can be a little tricky. I like to use an angle grinder with a diamond cutoff wheel to make those cuts. Another option for small cuts are edges of tile is to score lines in the tile and use tile nippers to follow the contours. 

10.) Choose the Right Grout

Choosing the Right Grout is as important as choosing the right tile. When choosing a grout there are 3 typical types to choose from. 

#1.) Sanded Grout

Sanded grout is a grout that contains larger aggregate sand that is used for larger spacing applications greater than ⅛”. So if you are using a ¼” tile spacer in your project you’ll want to make sure you choose a sanded grout for your application. 

#2.) Non-sanded grout

Non-sanded on the other hand is a finer grout and is used for tile applications where the spacing between tiles is < ⅛”. With either sanded or non-sanded grout, you want to make sure you seal the grout with a grout sealant to keep out dirt and grime. 

#3.) Epoxy Grout

Unlike Sanded and Non-Sanded Grout which are cement based products, epoxy grout is epoxy based which makes it very durable, waterproof, and resistant to cracks and staining.  However, the application process is more challenging, is higher cost, and has a more plastic like appearance. 

My Grouting Tips:

In most flooring applications, I always like to choose a grout that is as close to the floor tile as possible to minimize the discrepancies that can be created from dirt and grime build up but that’s just my personal preference.

To install sanded/non-sanded grout, you mix it like you would mortar but slightly more watery and then spread it across the tile application with a rubber float. After it hazes over for about 30 minutes, use a sponge to wipe off any excess. (I personally like to use a disposable head mop to save my back and knees as much as possible.)

So that’s it for my 10 Tiling Tips! I hope they’re helpful as you tackle your next (or first) DIY Tile project. If you liked this content, here are some more tips/tricks you might enjoy!

Tile Like a Pro | Tips from an Old World Craftsman

10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro!

Good luck and thanks for following!

Having clean water is essential for you and your family’s health and everyday tasks. Many people don’t know what contaminants are present in their drinking water. It could be anything from bacteria, to lead or corrosion from old pipes. Maybe something just makes your drinking water taste a little funky. Installing a water filtration system in your home can go a long way to adding peace of mind to you and your family. You should be confidant you’re drinking the highest quality water possible on a daily basis. Today, I’m going to help you do just that!

Disclosure: This project contains a paid product placement by Survivor Filter who generously supplied the filtration systems you’ll be seeing me install today. Get 15% OFF a Survivor Filter In-Home System at the link above or using the code MRFIXITDIY at checkout. Survivor Filter carries a wide range of water filters whether you’re at home or on the go so you can quickly transform water from contaminated to clean in a matter of minutes. All opinions are my own. 

What’s great about the Survivor Filter options is that they have both larger sized systems for use in higher usage areas like kitchens, and smaller systems for use in less used areas like bathroom sinks. It’s also great that their in-home products are manufactured here in the United States. Each system comes with an easy to follow instruction manual, mounting hardware, and the filters themselves. So today I’ll show you how you can easily install both systems.

Getting Started in the Kitchen

In my house, many of the old pipes are galvanized steel. There are areas of my home where the water pressure is lower than others. In some cases, the water can even be a little brown when it turns on. That’s because galvanized steel corrodes and rusts over time which starts to clog the pipes. I’ve replaced many of the water lines in areas of the home I’ve remodeled. Sadly, the trunk lines and supply lines in the kitchen haven’t been remodeled yet and are still galvanized. 

We’ll start with the larger water filtration system for the kitchen, the Max Filter System. It’s a 2 stage system that removes 95% of fluoride, and 99.9% removal of lead, chlorine, volatile organic compounds, toxic chemicals, and heavy metals. The system also leaves essential minerals in your drinking water.

The first step is to clean out the area under the sink that you’ll be working in. We tend to keep a ton of cleaning stuff under there, so get everything out of the way so you have a place to work.

Next you’ll want to find an area to mount the filter bracket. The system comes with attached water lines so find a location that is within reach of the water lines. If you don’t have a space available, you can purchase a longer set of lines to put it elsewhere. Mount the included bracket to the side of the cabinet or wall with the included screws and a drill or screwdriver.

Connecting the Water Lines

From there, turn the valve off for the cold water line at the valve on the wall or at the nearest supply valve for that sink. If you don’t have a valve anywhere, you can shut off the water main for the house if need be. Next turn on the faucet and let the excess water drain from the line. 

From there, disconnect the outlet hose line from the valve body, but leave the other end connected to the faucet. Connect the inlet line for the filter system in its place with some thread tape and an adjustable wrench. The inlet side has a threaded female nut on it and is on the left side as you’re looking at it. If you have different sized outlet lines on your water valves, you may need to purchase an adapter to fit.  

Next, install the outlet hose to the bottom of your supply line running to the faucet. Use a pair of adjustable wrenches to make sure you get a tight seal. From there, turn the water valve back on and check the system for leaks. Once you’ve verified there are no leaks, you’re good to go and you can run 5000 gallons of water before you need to replace the stage 1 filter which should easily last at least a year in the average home. 

My wife and I have used a Brita for clean drinking water but it gets pretty annoying when someone forgets to refill it or you need more than it holds for cooking. At one point, we even had a reverse osmosis system installed. However, you could constantly hear the water running from it because in order for them to work, they waste 4-7 gallons of water per 1 gallon of consumable water they produce. As someone who is environmentally conscious, that isn’t something I’m interested in. With this new water filtration system, we’ve got on demand filtered cold water without additional waste or complex installation. 

Setting up a Smaller System

Next I’m going to show you the PURE 10k In-Line filtration system. The Pure 10k also removes 99.9% of the same contaminants while leaving essential minerals in your drinking water. This system is great for bathrooms or as an in-line filter for a refrigerator water line or similar. 

Installation is similar to the larger unit. First find a spot to mount the included mounting bracket and install it with the included screws. Next turn off the cold water supply line at the valve, turn on the faucet to drain the remaining water in the line. Then disconnect the outlet line at the valve. From there, connect the inlet line on the filter to the cold water valve and connect the other end to the water line for the faucet using thread tape and adjustable wrenches. Lastly, turn the water valve back on, check for leaks, and you’re good to go. 

This system has the capacity to filter 10,000 gallons of water before replacement so it should last a good long time in a small bathroom like this. 

You’re All Set!

So that’s it for this project! I hope it showed you how you can easily get clean drinking water for you and your family. If you’re not sure what type of water your house has, check out this post. It shows how you can easily do a DIY water test to see what potential contaminants are in your water. Then you can see if installing a water filtration system is right for you.

I want to say a quick thank you to Survivor Filter for sending over the filters you saw me install. I absolutely encourage you guys to check out their full line of water filtration systems. Not only do they have these systems for your home, but they also have outdoor and on-the-go systems. They are perfect for backpacking, camping, fishing, hunting, or any outdoor activity that has you on the move. Their in-home products are manufactured here in the United States and made to be environmentally friendly. 

If you liked this project, here are some other water related projects I’ve done. Check them out!

Upgrade a Modern Water Spigot

How to Install a Sprinkler System

How to Install a Bidet

Thanks so much for stopping by and I’ll see you next time!  

It’s no secret that the world has been turned on it’s head early in 2020 as a result of the Coronavirus pandemic. Everyday items have disappeared off the shelves due to hoarding and hysteria. If you’ve tried to buy toilet paper in the last 60 days you know exactly what I’m talking about. So today I’m going to show you how to make the most of a shitty situation and install a bidet.

Click here for the tools and materials used in this project (affiliates) 

1.) Before Installing…

First you’ll need to order a bidet. Luckily, many bidet brands seem to be well stocked online. I picked up this $40 Luxe Bidet off Amazon. The price of bidets can range anywhere from $40 to $1000 depending on how many bells and whistles you want. I’m going to show you how to install this simple one that doesn’t include a heater or dryer. 

First of all, before you get started with this project you need to clean your toilet well. You’re going to get up close and personal with it so might as well take the time to clean it before you get down and dirty with it. Put your hair up and roll up your sleeves. 

2.) Installing Your Bidet

You’ll want to turn the water supply valve off at the base of the toilet. Then, flush the toilet to drain any water from the tank in the back. With the water drained, next you can remove the toilet seat. Do this by popping up the caps to access the mounting screws on the back of the seat. Using a screwdriver, loosen the mounting screws and retaining nuts from the underside of the seat and remove it.

From there, add the adjustment plates to the bidet assembly and place it on the toilet. The adjustment plates can be spun to align the mounting screws for your toilet. Next reinstall the toilet seat on top of the bidet and re-secure it in place with the mounting screws and retaining nuts underneath.

3.) Plumbing the Water Lines

After you install the bidet assembly, it’s time to shift gears to the toilet supply line. Grab a small bucket or container to catch any residual water that’s still in the toilet tank and remove the supply line from the toilet by unthreading it from the fill valve. Next, make sure the rubber gasket that came with the bidet is inserted into the included T-valve. Thread the T-valve onto the toilet fill valve assembly and make sure the outlet is facing towards the front of the toilet.

Once installed, connect the small braided hose that came with your bidet to the back of the bidet control module, and connect the supply line from the shutoff valve to the bottom of the T-valve. You may need to use thread tape to ensure a tight seal. You’ll find a small plastic wrench included with the bidet. You may also need a pair of channel lock pliers to tighten if you experience any leaks. 

Once the water lines are installed, turn the supply valve back on at the wall and fill the tank with water. If there are no leaks, it’s time to test the bidet. If you try to test it without sitting on it, beware that the water is going to launch across the room like a rocket so I recommend you test it when you plan to actually use it.

The first time you use a bidet can be a little jarring so I recommend you keep it on a low setting until you get comfortable. However, once you get used to it, I think you’ll find it difficult to go back to your old bathroom habits!

4.) Finished!

So that’s how you install a bidet! I hope you liked it and I hope you learned something. Installing a bidet is a super easy project to hopefully avoid the hassle of trying to buy TP in this world of crazy we’re all finding ourselves in! I hope you are yours are staying safe and healthy during this pandemic.

Like many people, I am trying to find ways to help out during this crisis and support those on the front lines so I have been 3D printing PPE components for medical professionals and essential personnel that I am sending for free to those in need. If you are able, you can make a small donation to help at this link. 100% of the proceeds will go towards materials, shipping, and production costs to distribute them to those that need them. If you’d like to download the files and print them for yourselves or community, there is a link down below where you can download them for free here.

If you liked this project, you might enjoy these other DIY Plumbing Projects as well:

How to Install a Bathroom Faucet

How to Fix a Garbage Disposal

Thanks for stopping by, I’ll see you next time!

This particular faucet is a Moen Oxby widespread faucet which means the sink has 3 holes and the outer holes are more than 4” apart. The install principles will be the same with most widespread faucets. It can take a little patience, but the end product will be worth it. 

#1: Remove the Old Faucet

Once you have the proper style faucet for your sink, step #1 is to remove the old faucet (if you are replacing it with a new one). This is a newly remodeled bathroom so I don’t have an old one to remove in this case. Make sure you remove any old caulk or sealants as well as any old gaskets that may be present so you have a nice clean sink to work with. 

#2: Install the Spout and Handles

Next, install the faucet spout and stem assembly by applying some thread tape to the stem and threading it onto the spout assembly. Apply a small bead of plumbers putty around the base of the spout assembly and Insert the spout assembly into the center hole of the sink. Mount it in place with the included hardware kit and tighten it in place using the included valve socket wrench. 

Next, thread the mounting nut and mounting washer to the valve assemblies and apply a small bead of plumbers putty around the base of the upper washer. Insert the valves assemblies from the underside of the sink and secure them in place with a washer and retaining clip. Make sure the blue colored cold valve goes in the right hole and the red colored hot valve goes in the left hole. Tighten the mounting nuts from underside to tighten the valve in place.

From there, install the faucet handles by threading them onto the valve assemblies and tightening them by hand. 

Slide the lift rod into place in the hole in the backside of the faucet. Next you can start on installing the drain assembly.

#3: Starting the Drain Assembly

Unscrew the top of the drain assembly called a waste seat and apply a bead of plumbers putty around the underside before inserting it into the drain hole in the sink. Apply some thread tape onto the drain assembly and then thread it into the waste seat from the underside and tighten it down. Make sure the threaded hole that protrudes out on drain pipe is facing the back and tighten the drain nut to secure it and the gasket in place making it water tight. You should have some squeeze out of plumbers putty in the sink itself which you can simply wipe away. 

From there you can move onto attaching the lift rod and the sink plug. Add some thread tape to the hole on the backside of the drain assembly, slide the locking nut over the ball rod, and insert it into the hole. Tighten the nut as much as possible by hand. Attach the lift strap to the lift rod and the ball rod and secure it in place with the locking clamp and tighten the screw on the lift rod. You can adjust how the lift rod operates by sliding it up and down the holes on the strapping. Make sure it works for you and then move on to installing the water lines. 

#4: Finishing the Drain Assembly and Water Lines

Attach the diverter hose by snapping the ends over the valve bodies, and the faucet stem assembly. You’ll know they’re seated properly when you hear a click. 

Assemble the P trap assembly by sliding the washer and slip nut over the end of the joint elbow, and wrap the thread in thread tape. Connect the trap, and elbow by tightening the nut by hand. Add the down pipe to the drain assembly by sliding the slip nut and washer over the drain assembly, and slide the trap assembly into the drain pipe in the wall. Once you have everything aligned, tighten the slip nuts at each joint by hand before snugging them up with a pair of channel lock pliers. 

Install your water lines from the valves and connect them to the new valves on the faucet. And lastly, turn the water on at the valves, check to see that the faucet is working properly, and check the drain assembly for any leaks. If you have a small leak, try tightening the nuts further with your pliers. And that’s it, you are done with this project. 

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. Plumbing projects can take a little bit to get used to and obviously each faucet is a little different but once you get the hang of the basics, installing a new faucet is definitely something most homeowners can tackle on their own. 

As always I encourage you to leave me a comment down below and let me know what you thought of the project and what type of project you’d like to see me tackle next. If you liked this project, check out my tutorial on unclogging a bathroom sink. Thank you for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

When remodeling a home or trying to get a home ready for resale, maximizing the return on your investment is key, but prioritizing which areas to tackle without breaking the bank can be an extremely tricky task. That’s why I sat down with a Licensed Realtor to talk about how to increase the value of your home when tackling a remodel. Here are her tips!

“The days of popcorn or textured ceilings are in the past. Get them out!” 

In your eyes, where do homeowners get the most bang for their buck when it comes to remodeling and getting the best Return on Investment (ROI) for resale?

1. PAINT-PAINT-PAINT! This is the #1 thing we have all our sellers do, because it has the highest ROI. It’s not really remodeling but it is a simple and relatively inexpensive upgrade and it is essential for resale.
2. Hardwood floors of any kind, instead of carpet. Buyers in today’s market really don’t like carpet…at least in Southern California.
3. Kitchen and master bathroom updates. Refinishing old cabinets works great, and paired with quartz counters will dress up a drab, dated kitchen very inexpensively. Quartz seems to be the new go-to when it comes to kitchen remodels and is less expensive than granite for new countertops.
4. Plenty of lighting and smooth ceilings are also very important. The days of popcorn or textured ceilings are in the past. Get them out!
   

    “Quartz counters- no more granite!”

   What are buyers looking for in a recent remodel? 

1. Quality workmanship is important. Buyers are fairly sophisticated and can spot sloppy work and cheap materials. It makes them think that there are other thingswrong with the house.
2. Open floorplans are requested from almost every buyer. Open kitchen/living areas are especially important in today’s market.
3. Easy access to outdoor living- at least here in Southern California with our climate.
4. All buyers watch HGTV type shows these days, and tend to like the trends in decor they see there.  People are leaning towards neutral colors and away from bold colors. Buyers are cautious around an ultra modern look. The magazines today like to shoot super modern stuff, but most buyers think it’s cold and can’t really visualize themselves in the space.
5. Kitchens:  Consider freestanding islands, and lots of counter space! Quartz counters are in, but no more granite! Loads of light and windows. Stainless appliances or the newer look called “smudge proof” slate appliances. Self closing drawers. All these things are really in at the moment.
6. Bathroom Remodels: Similar to kitchens, people are looking for storage and counter space. Showers: The bigger the better, and glass doors, no more shower curtains. Soaking tubs are more popular right now than spa tubs for some reason.  Textural tile, either patterned or large subway style tile.
7. Cool light fixtures.  Big closets.
8. Outdoor sitting, dining, and entertaining areas. Low maintenance landscaping is especially popular here in Southern California and succulents are super popular.
   

    “Please don’t put up wallpaper! Enough said there.  Maybe it will come back, maybe…Until then, don’t do it!”

   What are some of the most common mistakes you see homeowners making when it comes to remodeling?

1. Spending WAY too much to do the above things! Be aware of the upper end of value for the neighborhood and don’t over-improve the home if you’re planning to sell within 5 years.  If you’re going to stay in the home for a long period of time, do the remodel for YOU and worry less about this, knowing you may not get dollar-for-dollar back on what you spent.
2. Fixing cosmetic issues without addressing important infrastructure: Plumbing, sewer lines, roofs, etc. You can have a gorgeous house and a bad roof; however, buyers tend to run away from that.
3. Please don’t put up wallpaper! Enough said there.  Maybe it will come back, maybe…Until then, don’t do it!
4. Hire the right contractor if you’re not comfortable doing the work, and check references carefully. Spend time doing your homework there. Also supervise them very closely! Hiring the wrong contractor is the #1 mistake I see.
   

   If homeowners do their own remodels without permitting the work, how does that affect their/your ability to sell the property in the future?

1. It depends on what is done, but if an addition of any kind is done without a permit, the value of that square footage cannot be used to determine the overall value of the home at the time of sale. The appraiser technically has to ignore it. Some banks won’t allow a loan on a property with unpermitted additions which can greatly affect your ability to sell. DIY work is fine, but make sure you’re getting the proper permits when they’re required.

   

2. Many homeowners choose not to permit interior remodels, even though they technically should be. Interior remodels tend not to impact the ability to resell the property in my experience, unless the work is particularly poor.
3. If structural changes are made without permits, there can be a lot of liability in that that can come back to bite a previous homeowner after the fact. Full disclosures must be made at the time of sale to make sure buyers are aware of any work that was performed by the previous owner.
   

   How can homeowners make sure they’re not overspending on remodels based on the market? 

1. Talk to a local, experienced real estate agent about the values in the neighborhood and the scope of the remodel you’re considering.  Local agents are a great resource for what is going on in the area and how it’s affected recent sales & values. Real Estate agents are also a great resource for finding reliable contractors and other professionals.

Meet the Realtor: 

Grace Miranda is head of The Miranda Team and has been a consistent top producing real estate agent for over 14 years. She is known in the real estate community for her skilled negotiations, aggressive marketing of homes, and her systematic approach to getting top dollar for her clients. Grace and her team serve the real estate needs of sellers in the Los Angeles area, including Burbank, Toluca Lake, Shadow Hills, Studio City, Sherman Oaks, Encino, Hollywood Hills, Glendale, North Hollywood, Los Feliz, Sun Valley, and the surrounding communities. They specialize in the sale of luxury and estate properties, equestrian homes, new construction, income and investment properties, as well as probate and trust sales. She and her team are very successful with short sales, having currently a 100% approval rate, and she is certified as a Short Sale Specialist.