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Step 1: Diagnose the Problem

In this case, the leak in the garage below only seemed to occur during showers. This indicates water was escaping outside the shower—likely due to improper use of a shower curtain or gaps in the sealant at the tub’s edges. To fix this, resealing the tub and shower was the best solution.

Step 2: Remove the Old Sealant

The first and most time-consuming step is removing the old sealant. Use a utility knife, razor blade scraper, or trowel to scrape off all the old material. Be thorough—clean edges are essential for the new sealant to adhere properly.

Step 3: Choose the Right Sealant

For flexible, modern fiberglass tubs, a durable sealant is key. GE Sealant Supreme Silicone is an excellent choice. It’s 100% waterproof, offers permanent flexibility, and withstands the natural movement of the tub over time.

Step 4: Prepare the Tub

Before sealing, fill the tub with water. This step applies maximum pressure to the tub’s joints, ensuring the sealant can adjust and contract properly once the water is removed.

Use painter’s tape along the edges of the tub to create clean lines. This simple trick helps achieve a professional-looking finish, even if your application isn’t perfect.

Step 5: Apply the Sealant

Start with the areas where the tub meets the tile. If the tile work is neat, a clear silicone sealant is ideal because it blends seamlessly and doesn’t draw attention. For areas where the grout lines or edges are uneven, like where the tub meets the floor, white silicone is better at covering imperfections.

Apply steady, even pressure while running the sealant along the edges. Once you’ve finished, carefully peel off the painter’s tape before the sealant dries.

Step 6: Let It Cure

Leave the water in the tub for a few hours after sealing, then drain it to allow the sealant to fully cure. This ensures a watertight bond that will last.

Bonus Tip: Save Your Leftover Sealant

Don’t toss the leftover silicone! Wrap the tip of the tube with painter’s tape to keep it sealed and ready for your next project.

Why Resealing Is Important

Resealing your bathtub and shower is a simple yet essential DIY task that prevents water damage, mold growth, and costly repairs. Plus, with quality products like GE Sealant Supreme Silicone, you’ll get a long-lasting, professional-grade result.

Shop DIY Essentials:
Get all the products featured in this tutorial—including the GE Sealant Supreme Silicone—on my Amazon storefront here.

With these steps, your bathtub and shower will be sealed for good, saving you time, stress, and money. Ready to tackle your own DIY sealing project? Good luck!

Step 1: Identify the Problem

The first step is to figure out what’s causing the problem. Is it a leaky flapper? A busted fill valve? Is the flapper chain just stuck? Or did your toddler throw their toy down the toilet again? Take a deep breath and lift the lid off the tank. SOME toilets have different mechanisms but for the sake of this project we’ll assume you have a traditional fill valve/ flapper combination.

Check the Flapper

The flapper is the little rubber thingy that controls the water flow from the tank to the bowl. It’s usually connected to the flush lever with a chain. Sometimes the fix is as simple as freeing the chain from whatever it is stuck on. If the rubber flapper is damaged or worn, it can cause the toilet to run. Don’t worry, this is an easy fix. First you’ll need to shut off the water at the valve on the wall behind the toilet. Next, just remove the old flapper and replace it with a new one. There are a few different mounting types so make sure you check how it mounts on the hinge side. Often times ones that say “Universal” don’t match the universe you’re living in! Once you replace it, turn the water back on and give it few test flushes to make sure it’s still not leaking.

Inspect the Fill Valve

“Okay, what’s a fill valve?” The fill valve is responsible for refilling the toilet tank with water after you flush. If it’s not working properly, it can cause the toilet to run continuously. Usually a fill valve has a float on it which triggers the water to turn on and off. If the float is stuck down or damaged, the water won’t know when to shut off. To check it, lift the float mechanism up and down (with the water on). If the float is in the down/lowest position, it should call for water. It should shut off at its upper position. (You can adjust the height of the fill valve float on most assemblies) Flush the toilet and test the float and also listen for any hissing sounds that aren’t caused by running water. If you hear anything unusual, it’s time to replace the fill valve.

Check for Leaks

If the flapper and fill valve are working properly, it’s time to check for leaks. Add a few drops of food coloring to the back of the tank and wait for 30 minutes. If the water in the bowl changes color (without flushing), that means there’s a leak somewhere in the tank assembly or bowl. That may require removing the tank off the toilet base and doing some further inspection for worn seals/gaskets.

Make the Repairs (DIY, Baby!)

Now that you’ve identified the problem, it’s time to make the necessary repairs. Whether it’s replacing the flapper or the fill valve, or fixing a leak, you got this. You’re a DIY master! And if all else fails, it’s time to call in the big guns – a professional plumber. But seriously, you got this. Here’s how you can do it.

How to Replace a Toilet Fill Valve

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

At the wall there should be a water shutoff valve of some kind. It may be a modern quarter turn, or an older shutoff of some kind. Make sure you turn off the water supply before moving to the next step.

Step 2: Flush the Toilet and Disconnect the Supply Hose

The water supply hooks to the toilet with a flexible water line. Use your hand or a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the water line from where it is attached to the toilet. (This is the bottom of the fill valve) Keep a bucket or towel nearby to catch any water that didn’t drain from the toilet tank or water line when it was disconnected.

Step 3: Remove the Retaining Nut

Most of the time there is a retaining nut and flexible washer holding the fill valve in place (right by where the water line attached). Use the pliers if you have to to loosen the nut and remove the nut from the bottom (the rubber washer is usually inside the tank and will lift out with the assembly). Some water from the tank may come out of the hole in the bottom. This is normal as the tank rarely empties fully on a flush. The fill valve assembly should now be loose.

Step 4: Lift the Fill Valve Assembly from the Tank

Disconnect any additional flexible hoses from inside the tank and lift out the fill valve assembly. It should come out easily. If not, double check you’ve removed any locking nuts.

Step 5: Replace with New Fill Valve Assembly

The new fill valve assembly should go right back into the same spot and install in the reverse order of the removal. Follow the instructions on your new valve to adjust the float height, and determine how much water to use per flush. Most adjust easily with a retaining clip or by twisting the riser up or down.

Step 6: Re-Connect the Water Line

Reinstall the locking nut on the underside of the toilet tank, making sure the rubber gasket is installed on the bottom of the new assembly. Make sure the fill valve assembly is not turned against the inside of the tank and it can move properly up and down. Then secure the lock nut and washer in place. Reconnect the water supply line and turn on the water to test and make sure everything works properly.

Step 7: Enjoy Your Throne!

This part is pretty self explanatory.

There you have it, a DIY guide on how to diagnose and fix a running toilet. Don’t let a little running water ruin your day. You can fix this yourself. Good luck!

Like this content? Check out more DIY Plumbing tips below!

Top 5 DIY Plumbing Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

How to Install a Bathroom Faucet

It’s no secret that the world has been turned on it’s head early in 2020 as a result of the Coronavirus pandemic. Everyday items have disappeared off the shelves due to hoarding and hysteria. If you’ve tried to buy toilet paper in the last 60 days you know exactly what I’m talking about. So today I’m going to show you how to make the most of a shitty situation and install a bidet.

Click here for the tools and materials used in this project (affiliates) 

1.) Before Installing…

First you’ll need to order a bidet. Luckily, many bidet brands seem to be well stocked online. I picked up this $40 Luxe Bidet off Amazon. The price of bidets can range anywhere from $40 to $1000 depending on how many bells and whistles you want. I’m going to show you how to install this simple one that doesn’t include a heater or dryer. 

First of all, before you get started with this project you need to clean your toilet well. You’re going to get up close and personal with it so might as well take the time to clean it before you get down and dirty with it. Put your hair up and roll up your sleeves. 

2.) Installing Your Bidet

You’ll want to turn the water supply valve off at the base of the toilet. Then, flush the toilet to drain any water from the tank in the back. With the water drained, next you can remove the toilet seat. Do this by popping up the caps to access the mounting screws on the back of the seat. Using a screwdriver, loosen the mounting screws and retaining nuts from the underside of the seat and remove it.

From there, add the adjustment plates to the bidet assembly and place it on the toilet. The adjustment plates can be spun to align the mounting screws for your toilet. Next reinstall the toilet seat on top of the bidet and re-secure it in place with the mounting screws and retaining nuts underneath.

3.) Plumbing the Water Lines

After you install the bidet assembly, it’s time to shift gears to the toilet supply line. Grab a small bucket or container to catch any residual water that’s still in the toilet tank and remove the supply line from the toilet by unthreading it from the fill valve. Next, make sure the rubber gasket that came with the bidet is inserted into the included T-valve. Thread the T-valve onto the toilet fill valve assembly and make sure the outlet is facing towards the front of the toilet.

Once installed, connect the small braided hose that came with your bidet to the back of the bidet control module, and connect the supply line from the shutoff valve to the bottom of the T-valve. You may need to use thread tape to ensure a tight seal. You’ll find a small plastic wrench included with the bidet. You may also need a pair of channel lock pliers to tighten if you experience any leaks. 

Once the water lines are installed, turn the supply valve back on at the wall and fill the tank with water. If there are no leaks, it’s time to test the bidet. If you try to test it without sitting on it, beware that the water is going to launch across the room like a rocket so I recommend you test it when you plan to actually use it.

The first time you use a bidet can be a little jarring so I recommend you keep it on a low setting until you get comfortable. However, once you get used to it, I think you’ll find it difficult to go back to your old bathroom habits!

4.) Finished!

So that’s how you install a bidet! I hope you liked it and I hope you learned something. Installing a bidet is a super easy project to hopefully avoid the hassle of trying to buy TP in this world of crazy we’re all finding ourselves in! I hope you are yours are staying safe and healthy during this pandemic.

Like many people, I am trying to find ways to help out during this crisis and support those on the front lines so I have been 3D printing PPE components for medical professionals and essential personnel that I am sending for free to those in need. If you are able, you can make a small donation to help at this link. 100% of the proceeds will go towards materials, shipping, and production costs to distribute them to those that need them. If you’d like to download the files and print them for yourselves or community, there is a link down below where you can download them for free here.

If you liked this project, you might enjoy these other DIY Plumbing Projects as well:

How to Install a Bathroom Faucet

How to Fix a Garbage Disposal

Thanks for stopping by, I’ll see you next time!