Who hasn’t thought about picking up that dated piece of wood furniture and bringing it new life? Is it worth it? In this article I’ll show you how to refinish wood furniture and breathe new life into it. I’ll show you my process for how I go about refinishing wood furniture.

This project contains a paid product integration from Minwax. All opinions are herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

Step #1: SAND!

I know what you’re thinking, “I hate sanding!”. I know. Trust me, so do I. However, if you want to have a quality finish when it’s all said and done, you have to do a good job with your prep. Depending on the piece of furniture you’re working with and the finish you are planning to add on top of the current, this could either be fast or incredibly painstaking. If you’re going to be painting over the current finish, a light sand is probably enough. However, if you’re going to be re-staining, it’s best to get down to the raw wood and that takes time and effort.

I always start with 80-grit and remove as much of the old clear coat and stain as possible. Once I’ve got most of the material removed, then I’ll move on to 120-grit before doing another pass at 220-grit. 220-grit is sufficient for most finishes but I’ll occasionally go up to 400-grit on tabletops and desks.

Paint vs Stain

Paint:

• Painting requires less sanding. Often times just scuffing up the existing finish is adequate to prep the surface.
• Always use a quality primer over the existing finish before adding your new paint finish.

Stain:

• Requires more prep work and sanding. Often sanding all surfaces down to 220 grit and removing any existing stain.
• Occasionally you can stain a darker color over a lighter color without as much sanding.

STEP #2: Pre-Condition

With the majority of the sanding out of the way you’re ready for a new finish….almost! Don’t overlook a quality pre-conditioner if you’re going to be using a stain. ESPECIALLY if you’re refinishing a piece of furniture made out of a soft wood (pine, alder, etc). If you’re going to be staining a soft wood (and even some hardwoods), get in the habit of using a pre-conditioner. For this project, I used Minwax Water Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Pre-conditioning helps even out stains so you don’t end up with blotchy spots. Pre-conditioner can also help with spots you may not have been able to fully remove the old finish. It just helps even out the finish and is a great habit to get into using.

Step #3: Choosing a Stain

Choosing the right stain is essential for the success of your finished product. There are a bunch of variables to consider including the final color of the piece. One of the biggest things to consider is:

Oil-Based vs Water-Based:

Oil-Based:

• Pro: Oil based finishes are typically more durable
• Pro: Oil based finishes usually don’t raise grain require additional sanding
• Con: Oil based have longer drying time and heavy odors
• Con: Oil based are less eco-friendly and require solvents/thinners to clean up

Water Based: 

• Pro: Water-based are easy to work with and clean up
• Pro: Water-based stains are UV resistant
• Pro: Water-based stains are more forgiving and easily fixed if a mistake is made
• Pro: Fast dry time and low odor
• Con: Water-based often raises grain in wood projects requiring sanding between coats
• Con: Water-based are not as durable as oil-based

Choosing the proper finish is largely a matter of preference and what is available. Typically water-based is more forgiving for the average DIY because it requires less patience between coats, and is typically easier to work with.

In this case I’m using the new color stains from Minwax, specifically Minwax Semi-Transparent Color Stain in the color Royal Pine. These stains come in both a solid color and semi-transparent color. The solid color is more like a paint in that it doesn’t show as much wood grain. The semi-transparent allows more wood grain to show through the finish color. What’s really unique about these stains is that you can tint them to over 240+ colors!

Step #4: Applying the Stain

Each stain and finish varies a little bit in its suggested application. Make sure you take the time to read the label on your stain or finish to make sure you are applying it correctly. Some stains suggest a foam brush or rag while others recommend a specific type of brush for best application. Check out this other article to dive into the differences between spraying, brushing, and wiping on. Other things to consider are making sure you are in a well ventilated space and making sure you are staining/finishing in the proper temperature window for your finish. Again, this should all be outlined on the packaging of your stain/finish

Step #5: Sealing or Top Coating

Typically when you’re finished staining a piece of furniture, you’ll want to apply a top coat/clear coat for protection and/or shine. Typical finishes for clear coats are Satin, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss. These are just a matter of personal preference for your project. There are a large variety of finishes for your top coat typically in the form of a “urethane”.

Make sure you choose one based on the location of the finished product (indoor/outdoor), and in the sheen you want for your project. Also, you CAN apply an oil-based polyurethane or similar over top of a water based stain. However, this requires that your water-based stain is COMPLETELY dry and cured. I DO NOT recommend applying a water based finish over an oil-based stain. I used Minwax One Coat Polyurethane.

Waxing 

Occasionally I may use a paste wax as the final finish instead of or in addition to a polyurethane finish. The wax also offers protection to the furniture/finish but it doesn’t harden to the consistency of a urethane top coat. You can apply a paste wax over a urethane finish pending you add it in thin layers and buff between each. Keep in mind that the wax may alter the sheen of your urethane finish.

Step #6: Be Patient

Refinishing a piece of furniture is a lot of work and not for the faint of heart. But if it was easy you wouldn’t be able to find these old wooden pieces for free or cheap. It takes time to get the finish you want. After all, they don’t make them like they used to!

If you enjoyed this content, please check out some of these other articles you might enjoy.

An Idiot’s Guide to Wood Finishing

Restoring a Backyard Playset

Pallets are used to transport almost anything, from food products to fuel and chemicals. They’re also used and re-used, and shipped all around the world. It’s no surprise that they are made to last and hold up to the abuse of shipping and carrying heavy loads. However, they’re also often left out in the elements so they need to be resistant to wear and tear, the weather, and insects. Here’s where the problem comes in.

Manufacturers of these pallets typically treat the pallets either chemically or with heat in order to make them more resilient. There is A LOT of information out there about sourcing where pallets come from, who produced the wood, and how they were treated; however, I’m going to try and condense a bit of info for you to try and give you a crash course for your projects. The general rule is that if a pallet is heat-treated it is safe to use. If it is chemically treated, it is not safe to use.

IDENTIFYING PALLETS AND MARKINGS

First and foremost when using pallets for your projects, always look for any markings on the pallet that can help identify the source of the pallet and the method in which it was treated. The International Plant Protection Convention (IPPC) has outlined a labeling system for international pallets, which is required on newer pallets to help identify the pallet. Here’s an example.

The main thing you’re looking for on the label is the treatment code:

• HT: This means the pallet has been heat-treated which heats the core temperature of the wood. Pallets labeled with HT are safe to use.
• MB: This indicates the pallet has been chemically treated with the insecticide Methyl Bromide and is not safe for use in your project.
• DB: This indicates the pallet has been Debarked meaning the bark was removed using a cutting tool under IPPC standards. If used in conjuction with MB the pallet is unsafe. If used either alone or with HT the pallet is safe.
• KD: (Not shown) This indicates the pallet is Kiln Dried. Kiln dried pallets are not harmful and are safe to use for your project.

Here’s an example of a label on a pallet. Can you identify it?

• US: Country Code – This indicates the pallet was manufactured in the United States.
• 08172: Manufacturer or supplier number
• HT: Heat-treated meaning it’s safe to use in your project.
• NHLA: National Hardwood Lumber Association – Logo of the manufacturer or inspection service

HISTORY OF CHEMICALLY TREATED PALLETS

Traditionally many pallets contained CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate), which was used extensively as a preservative in the wood; however, testing revealed that the arsenic contained in the chemical compound could leak from the wood and cause problems.

More recently, chemically treated pallets have been treated with Methyl Bromide [MB], which is regulated as an insecticide in the United States. Internationally, many countries have outlawed the use of Methyl Bromide in their pallets. Many European nations for example have added it to a list of chemicals to be completely phased out. However, there are still a lot of chemically treated pallets floating around out there that may cross your path.

THAT’S ALL GREAT BUT WHAT IF I CAN’T FIND A MARKING?

Sometimes there’s just not a marking on a pallet or the marking has been worn off via wear and tear. It could either be a pallet that is used for domestic transport and is not treated with any chemicals, or it could be that the marking has been worn off. I’d urge you to err on the side of caution in this case and make sure if you choose to use the pallet that you protect yourself with a respirator and safety equipment.

This is by no means an attempt to scare you away from using pallets in your projects, just a warning to protect yourself and your family first. The bottom line is that if you can’t identify the pallet as heat-treated or kiln dried, it might be in your best interest to steer clear of it and find something else. If you absolutely must use the pallet you have despite the fact that you don’t know if it’s been chemically treated, make sure you protect yourself when cutting, sanding, or working with the wood by wearing a respirator (not a paper mask), gloves, safety glasses, etc. I’d also recommend that you use a polyurethane or some other type of thick sealant to seal the wood when you’re done. If you’re working on something that will be used as a food prep surface, children’s toy or furniture, etc DO NOT use a pallet you can’t identify first.

Hope this info was helpful and best of luck on your upcoming pallet projects!