You only get one chance to make a first impression! It’s true in all aspects of life including your front door. Unfortunately when it came to our house, the front entryway was looking pretty drab and gross. Not to worry, I tackled a full DIY Entryway Overhaul complete with front Door Restoration and new hardware with the help from my friends from Minwax and Schlage! If you’re interested in watching the whole entry transformation, check out the full video here.

This project contains paid product integrations from Minwax and Schlage Locks. All opinions herein are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

The Issue:

The various shades of brown paint on the doors and surrounding area really don’t stand out against the beige brick that features on the majority of the house. Also, the solid wood doors have been painted over umpteen times and have lost their character.

The Goal:

The goal of the project is to bring some visual interest to the front entryway with sharp contrast against the beige brick, and a combination of tones and textures.

Step 1: Paint (the Walls)

I think when it comes to painting, there’s not much to say. Pretty self explanatory, right? Well there are a few helpful tips that I can share about painting to make your life easier.

1. 1.  Make sure you choose the right nap for your roller! Nap refers to the length of the fibers on the roller. A higher Nap means longer fibers so it is better suited to get into the nooks and crannies of a rougher surface. A lower nap number means it’s better suited for a smoother surface. For this project I’m using a 3/4″ nap for the rough walls and a 1/4″ nap for the smooth trim pieces.
   2. Taping – I’m not a huge fan of using a lot of tape for a couple reasons. #1 is that it creates a lot of waste to deal with, and #2 is it tends to give people a false sense of security and lets you be sloppy. However, a lot of tapes bleed under the edge and you end up having to fix it later anyway, adding a lot of time to the project. I use Frog Tape mostly and make sure to wet the edge of the tape when I put it up which activates their edge lock adhesive and gives much cleaner tape lines.

Step 2: Strip Paint On the Doors

There’s no secret in saying that restoring old doors is a lot of work and not the most fun one can have on a weekend! However, replacing wooden doors can also be extremely expensive so if you can spare the time and don’t mind a little hard work, you can get beautiful results. The first step is to use paint stripper. Add a generous coat(s) and let it sit for about 15 minutes and then come back through with a good, solid metal scraper and take your time peeling the layers off. You may have to do it several times depending on the amount of paint on the doors. Wear your gloves, eye protection, and a good respirator because this stuff can be noxious!

Step 3: Sand the Doors

After stripping, it’s not uncommon to feel like you’ve really made a mistake. It will likely look horrible! But don’t worry, get out a sander with some 80 grit paper and get to work. You’ll quickly start to see the raw wood and start to feel better about your decision. Work your way up through the grits until at least 220 grit. (I usually go 80 grit, 120 grit, and 220 grit)

Pay close attention to the details. The more detail your door has, the harder it’s going to be. It can be pretty tricky to get into those spaces but I recommend getting a small wire brush, sanding sponges, and utilizing paint stripper as much as possible to make your life easier. It takes time, there’s no way around that!

Step 4: (Pre) Stain the Doors

Choosing the right stain products for your doors is important. I like to use Oil-Based products on any outdoor project because it provides a more durable, harder finish over the longterm than its water-based counterpart. DON’T MIX AND MATCH oil and water-based. I also always like to use a quality Minwax Oil-based pre-stain conditioner. The pre-stain conditioner evens out the wood to create a more uniform stain look and remove any unsightly blotching that can sometimes occur. It’s especially important on old doors that have previously had other finishes previously applied. I applied it with a cheap chip brush and let it set up for about 30 minutes before staining.

For this project I chose the Minwax Oil-based Early American stain for the doors. I thought it gave a nice, warm contrast to the green and tan trim we chose for our color scheme. For staining, I also used a chip brush and followed it up with a rag to wipe off any excess after it sat on the wood for a few minutes. For more staining tips, check out this previous project article.

Step 5: Seal the Doors

A quality top coat can be a make or break step for restoring doors. In professional setups, they have a dedicated spray booth to get the best quality application possible. But you’re not a pro so just do your best. You can still get a great finish. I chose to use the Minwax Oil-based Helmsman Spar Urethane on these doors. It’s a great, durable finish that will provide years of UV and weather protection. I applied it with a brand new, high quality bristle brush in the direction of the wood grain and allowed it to set up according to the dry time on the can. Then I sanded the doors lightly with 400 grit paper and applied another coat. Then I repeated that process again for a solid 3 coat application.

Step 6: Update the Hardware

Lastly, to get a modern/rustic vibe, it’s time to update the hardware on the doors. I used the Century Matte Black Hardware and Century Touch Deadbolt from my friends at Schlage Locks.These doors required a little updating in order to install the new hardware which included installing a new patch in the old strike plate area and chiseling it out so it has a nice finished look. If you want to learn more about how to fix your old doors to install new hardware and update strike plates, make sure you check out this video where I walk you through the whole process! 

So that’s it for this project! I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it inspires you to tackle a door project you may have been too nervous to take on! 

If you’re interested in learning more about staining and/or restoring old furniture and household items, check out these other articles.

Restoring a 100 Year Old Tool Chest

How to Refinish Wood Furniture

Paint is one of those things that can make a huge difference in a remodel! And fortunately, it’s one of those things that can be done by most homeowners. However, just because most people CAN do it, doesn’t mean most people do it WELL. In this project tutorial I’ll share with you my 10 DIY Tips to Paint Like a Pro that can help you knock out your next pain project smoothly and professionally.

Follow along with the video above for more detail on each tip.

This project contains affiliate links to the The Home Depot. All opinions are herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

#1. Preparation is Essential

Doing adequate preparation is one of those tasks that is essential to a quality result. However, it’s also one of the easiest things to overlook because it takes quite a bit of time. Adequate prep can and should probably take as long or longer than painting itself.

Preparation involves: Patching nail holes and cracks, caulking gaps, protecting floors & furniture, masking, and using drops cloths or plastic to shield off the room from other areas of the house.

#2. Minimize Plastics or Use Thicker/Larger Pieces

This is more of a personal preference than anything but it drives me nuts to see how much plastic people throw away on a simple painting job. I’m a bit of an environmentalist so if I can minimize waste on a project I tend to try to do whatever I can to make it happen. That means I always use 6 mil or thicker plastic and I always try to use it in large sheets so I can save it after the project. I also try to use drop cloths, cardboard, or tarps as much as possible instead of buying additional plastics.

#3. Get the Right Tools

Just because you are a DIYer doesn’t mean you should do things super cheap. You’re saving a lot of money on labor by tackling your own paint project; however, that doesn’t mean you have to make it hard on yourself. If you don’t already have the right tools for the job, go and get them! Either rent or buy the right tools to make your life easier. You’ll be glad that you spent a little extra to save yourself a headache.

#4: Primer Is Your Friend

A quality primer is your best friend and shouldn’t be skipped. If you’re in an older home you may be going over an oil based (or hopefully not lead) paint. Without a quality primer, a water based paint will peel right off without adhesion. Using primer will help create a secure bond between raw wood, previously painted surfaces, raw drywall, etc. Not to mention that primer is cheaper than paint and adding a coat of primer typically cuts down on the amount of paint you’ll need to apply.

#5: Don’t Cheap Out on Painter’s Tape

I try not to rely heavily on painter’s tapes for a few reasons. #1.) It’s wasteful (and I’m a bit of a hippie) and #2.) It lulls you into a false sense of security and encourages you to get sloppy. When using tapes, I always like to reach for FrogTape over the traditional Blue tape. It adheres better and creates a tight seal on the edges keeping the paint from getting a muddied/blotchiness when you peel it off. If you have to touch up all the edges after you’ve peeled the tape off then it hasn’t saved you any time. Use it sparingly and…

#6: Learn to Cut In Properly

Follow along with the video to see what I mean by this. I place the heel of the brush about an inch from the cut edge and then fan the brush towards the cut edge until I get there. Then I go up and down along the edge with the knife edge of the brush and feather the finish out a few inches away from the cut edge. (Makes more sense if you just watch the video)

#7. Roll Towards the Roller Handle

Always roll in the direction of the roller handle. The handle side applies pressure (and thus paint) to the wall. As it goes outwards towards the end, the pressure is diminished meaning it feathers the finish naturally. This will help you get nice feathered finishes without paint lines. Work in about 24″ sections at a time going up and down the wall.

#8. Label Your Paint Cans

If you have any leftover paint at the end of a job, make sure you label the room you used it for. It’s not always easy to remember which paint is which when you’re digging through paint cans in the shed. Labeling your paint cans helps you keep things organized. You can also take a picture of the label or write down the name of the paint shade on the label as well. Over time the ink from the store labels fades away so if you have to buy more of that shade, it can be hard to remember the name. Writing it down or having a picture reference helps immensely.

#9. Clean Your Brushes (and Rollers) Properly

Follow along with the video to see how I like to clean (and store) my brushes. To do it properly, I like to use a painter’s tool or brush comb and work away from the handle. Tilt the brush away from you in the sink or running water and let the water run towards the bristle ends. Use the comb to work between the fibers until everything runs clear and the brush fibers move freely. Store the brush in the original packaging or make a newspaper sleeve to keep them lasting a long time.

#10. Re-Use Your Materials

Not only am I a bit of a hippie, but I’m also cheap! Re-using materials can save you a lot of money! I like to store all my paint supplies in large tubs so I always have my stuff in one place. If you clean things well you can re-use almost everything from one job to the next which will save you a ton of money in the long run.

So that’s it for this tutorial! I hope you enjoyed these 10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro and hope they help you get a killer result on your next DIY painting project. If you liked it, please leave a comment on the video and let me know. Or feel free to share it with a friend who might find it helpful.

You might also like some of these Tips & Tricks.

The DOs & DON’Ts of DIY Spray Foam Insulation

Top 5 Home Improvement Hacks

I’ve come across spray foam insulation being used by many DIYers in just about every way imaginable BUT just because you can use it for a variety of purposes, it doesn’t necessarily mean that you should! Today I’m going to share with you the ways that I use spray foam insulation in my remodeling projects and some applications where I don’t recommend it, or think a better solution is required. 

This project contains a paid product integration from Loctite and affiliate links to the The Home Depot. All opinions are herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

DO: Use Window & Door Foam to Seal Around Rough Openings

Whenever I’m installing windows and doors, the rough openings are always slightly larger than the window or door itself. That means you’re always left with a small gap that can create drafts, air loss, or be an avenue for pests to find their way in. In this case, you should definitely use the window and door spray foam. The window and door foam expands at low pressure compared to other types so you won’t risk bending or bowing the door or window jambs causing problems with their operation. 

DON’T: Use to Address Structural Cracks in Foundations or Concrete

Next, let’s talk about cracks. Not all cracks are created equal. For example, if I come across a crack in a foundation, spray foam insulation wouldn’t be my go-to fix. Foundation cracks can be superficial, or they may be structural so understanding the problem is essential to creating the right fix. I would never use spray foam to address a structural problem like a foundation crack. The same goes for most cracks in concrete including sidewalks, driveways, patios, etc. 

DO: Use to Air Seal Attics & Crawlspaces

One of the best uses for spray foam applications is to use it for air sealing. When I recently replaced the insulation in my attic, I first went through and sealed all the visible cracks and penetrations I could see in the attic before adding the blown in insulation on top. Filling any voids with spray foam makes sure you have a tight envelope between your living space and the attic. I climbed around in the dark in my attic and looked for light leaks from below and filled those areas. The same can be said for crawl spaces beneath the house that can be spots where air loss occurs. 

DON’T: Use to Address Issues with Improper Framing or as a Wood Substitute 

One of the biggest no-no’s I have seen from DIYers is using spray foam to fill structural gaps in framing. I’ve opened some walls and found that people sometimes will mis-cut a piece of lumber and rather than recutting it the proper size, they just slap it in place and fill the gap with spray foam. You might be surprised how often this happens especially in DIY flip houses. Just because something looks decent on the outside doesn’t always mean it looks great underneath. Don’t use spray foam to fill any structural gaps as it’s not a structurally rated product. 

DO: Use On Small Penetrations to Seal Out Insects and Pests

I have a really old house so there are a lot of unseen areas where there are small holes or cracks. I typically find them after I have some unwanted visitors in the house. Probably my favorite application for spray foam is to fill those areas to seal out ants, spiders, and other insects. Typically with ants I can follow their trail to see where they are coming in from outside and then use spray foam to fill those areas. Now if the hole or penetration is larger, like something a mouse or a rat can get through, I don’t recommend using spray foam UNLESS you add some wire mesh to the area first. Larger pests like that can sometimes chew their way through the foam and get back in. 

DON’T: Use to Fill In Eave & Soffit Areas that Effect Attic Ventilation

Another area to be careful of is using spray foam in eaves and soffits. These are common trouble areas for bees nests and many homeowners elect to spray foam to seal out the bees. However, you always want to be careful that you’re not interfering with your home’s ability to breathe properly. Some homes have vented eaves and soffits that allow your attic to vent properly and by filling in these areas, your attic space can’t vent properly. If it’s one trouble spot it’s not a big deal but be conscious if you find yourself sealing larger areas. 

DO: Use to Seal Around Electrical and Plumbing Penetrations (Code Permitting)

Electrical and plumbing penetrations into a home is another great use for spray foam. However, it’s important to make sure a fire rated foam isn’t required by code in your area. I always like to seal around exterior electrical boxes and any plumbing pipe penetrations around the perimeter of my house because these are really common points of drafts as well as can act as super highways for critters coming in and out of your house. 

DON’T: Use to Seal Water Leaks in Plumbing

Another huge fail for spray foam is people using it to try and stop leaks. Rather than fixing the underlying issue, I have seen some homes where people have attempted to stop a leak from a pipe or water line with spray foam. Please don’t use spray foam for this. Most of the time all it does is create a larger issue down the road. It won’t solve the problem and will most likely result in larger damage taking place once the water finds a way out. Depending on the application, the foam can actually allow the water to build up which can lead to serious mold problems so do yourself a favor and if you’re experiencing any kind of water leak, avoid using spray foam as a bandaid. 

DO: Use in Moderation! 

My last tip is just that use spray foam in MODERATION. People have a tendency to spray things and trying to find extra uses for it and end up using the whole can before the nozzle gets all plugged up and they can’t use the can anymore. Trust me, I know that can be frustrating. BUT here’s what I would recommend instead. Use the can in moderation and only use as much as you need. Remember that these products expand somewhat exponentially. As far as reusing the can, I recommend that you just buy a bunch of extra straws. You can snag a whole pack online for just a few $$ and keeps you from wasting a bunch of money on new cans. 

So that’s it for this article! If enjoyed it, please consider subscribing to my YouTube channel so you never miss out on any of the new content I post. 

Thank you to Loctite for making this video possible and allowing me to share how to properly use spray foam. If you guys do need some spray foam for your next project, I encourage you to check out their products which you can find at your local Home Depot. 

If you found this article helpful, here are some other articles you may enjoy! 

5 DIY Ways to Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

Warm Your Home & LOWER Your Heat Bill

Disclosure: This video and article contains a paid product integration by ZEP USA. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

Cleaning the Chipped Area

This chip is a medium sized chip and is about 6” wide, and about an inch deep.
So the first thing we need to do is clean out the chip of any debris or loose chunks. Start by breaking out the loose chunks with a chisel or other tool like a screwdriver.

Once you have any loose chunks removed, use a wire brush to loosen up any debris and dirt that have built up over time. Getting the surface of the chipped out area clean is the most important part of this project. You need to make sure your new patch can firmly adhere to the old concrete.

Once you have the loose material removed from the chip, you’ll need to use a concrete cleaning product like Zep’s Driveway and Concrete Pressure Wash Concentrate.

This Concrete and Driveway cleaner is perfect for this application because it is a concentrated concrete cleaner that easily removes tire marks, dirt, grease, and oil from any concrete, brick, or asphalt surfaces. For a small chip, you can apply a small amount of the concentrated cleaner to a container of water at the mixture indicated on the bottle. Or you can do what I did and take the opportunity to add a diluted mixture to a pressure washer and just clean your whole driveway. Pay careful attention to the chipped out areas and make sure you thoroughly clean them.

Apply Concrete Patching

Once the chipped out area has had some time to dry, next you’ll need to get a small
amount of a concrete vinyl patching compound like this one. These are available off the shelf at your local big box store and are super easy to use. Simply add a small
amount of water to the powdered mixture. Then mix it up until you have a peanut
butter like consistency, and apply it to the chipped out area with a masonry or
disposable trowel.

You can feather out the surrounding area to match the existing
concrete. For corner chips or areas next to expansion joints, you may have to take a little extra time to form the patch to follow the existing contours. Once the compound has set up for about 20 minutes, use a grouting sponge and some water to clean any excess patching compound from around the patched area and create a seamless patch. For deep or large chips, you may have to apply several coats of the patching
compound to fill the void. And if the area around your chip is heaved, you may need
to do some additional steps of flattening that area using an angle grinder and a diamond grinding wheel.

So that’s it for this episode of Home School’d. I hope you guys enjoyed it and I hope
you learned something. If you’re interested in purchasing any of the products I used
in this video, links to all the tools and materials can be found in the description
below. I also have tips on how to fix a crack in concrete, so check that out here.

Thank you guys so much for checking out this post. For more outdoor projects, click on some of the links below.

DIY Paver Walkway Install

Find the Right Pressure Washer for you!

https://pressurewashr.com/

Summertime means cranking that air conditioning in the house to cool it down which can really impact your home’s energy consumption. Today I’m here to share a few things that you can do around your home to help make your space more comfortable and energy efficient, which reduces your impact on the environment.

So let’s get started!

#1: Replace Your Indoor and Outdoor Light Bulbs with LED’s

Replacing your light bulbs is one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to make your home more energy efficient. Typical CFL or older
incandescent bulbs use anywhere from 40w-100w a piece and the newer LED equivalents typically range from 10-20w for the same light output.
They’re a little more expensive on the front end, but their bulb life is exponentially longer and the cost savings on your energy bill adds up quickly.

Many people may think to replace their interior bulbs. Also, consider replacing exterior landscape bulbs and motion lights. It’s not uncommon for exterior bulbs to be 150w so replacing them can add up to
significant savings over time.

#2: Inspect Your Attic Insulation and Replace it if Necessary

One specific area to consider is your attic. If you’re like me, it’s not an area you particularly like to work in. Still, it’s a vital part of keeping your home as efficient as possible. It keeps heat in during the winter, but it also helps keep the heat of your roof from radiating into your living space in the summer.

Go into your attic and make sure that insulation coats the entire living space. It may be blown in, in batt form, or a combination of the two. If your insulation is sporadic, very thin, or has been infested with critters, consider having it replaced or adding additional insulation on top.

#3: Update Your Old Thermostat to a New Smart Thermostat

Upgrading your HVAC themostat provides
another environmentally friendly tool in saving energy. A programmable thermostat allows you to set back your home’s temperature when you’re away, such as at work for the day or on a lengthy vacation. For instance, you can program up to 4 schedules a day, 7 days a week. Smart versions like the Trane Connected Thermostat – XL 824 or XL1050 – expand those capabilities and give you the ability to adjust settings from anywhere when preferences or plans change.

In fact, these thermostats are so advanced, they also come with other key features like Wi-Fi connection, built-in
Nexia Bridge (which gives you the flexibility to remotely monitor and control over other smart home devices such as your home’s lights, locks, and even your garage).

#4: Clean Your HVAC Condenser and Change Your Air Filters

One of the easiest ways to make sure your HVAC system is functioning properly and not overworking is to connect with your local HVAC technician for a seasonal maintenance. Trane provides an awesome certified contractor locator to help you find a company nearby to come evaluate your system. Another option is to follow these basic steps to cleaning the outside condenser and change the air filter inside. 

1.) To clean your condenser coil, first make sure power is shut off to the unit by turning off the power at the disconnect near the unit. 2.) Use a shop vac with a soft bristle attachment to vacuum any loose material or debris that may be inhibiting the cooling coils from working properly. 3.) Use a foaming condenser cleaning product to spray all over the condenser and let it soak for about 10 minutes. 4.) Then rinse the coil with clear low pressure water to remove remaining dirt and debirs. 5.) After that, you’re good to turn the power back on. 

You should do this about once a year to make sure your condenser is clean and working properly. Also, while you’re at it, make sure that there are no plants or obstructions within about 12” all around the unit that make it hard for the unit to breathe properly. If there are, make sure to trim it back. Changing your filter is simple. Just find your air intake for your unit and replace it with the proper size filter. You can find the size you need written right on the side of the previous filter. I recommend you do this around every 3-6 months. 

#5: Replace Old Single Pane Windows with New Energy Star Rated Options

Adding replacement windows or updating windows around your home during a remodel project is a great way to improve the overall energy efficiency of your home. Old single pane windows allow the heat of the sun’s rays to radiate into the home. This can significantly raise the interior temperature which means your A/C system needs to work harder to cool the home.

New double paned windows have an insulating gas between the panes which allows for less heat energy transfer into the home and thus are much more energy efficient. A local window expert can help you decide on what types of windows are right for your home.

Hopefully these tips help give you some ideas to get your home’s energy consumption under control. Not only will it help save you money, but it can help lessen your environmental impact. If you are considering making some energy efficient improvements, I recommend looking at your local utility company’s website. Oftentimes, you can find rebates for energy efficient upgrades to your home that can help you offset those initial costs. Your local and state governments may also have some incentives to take advantage of. All it takes is a little research. 

I’d like to thank the Trane team for sending over the XL824 connected thermostat I installed in the video and for making this project possible. If you’d like some more information on additional energy efficient upgrades you can do around your home, check out Trane’s website.

Thank you, for watching and if it’s your first time visiting the channel, please hit that subscribe button and hit that notification bell so you never miss out on any of the new content I put out. And as always, I encourage you to leave me a comment
down below and let me know what energy improvements you plan on tackling down the road.

Thanks so much for watching and I’ll see you next time.

Top 5 DIY Ways to Get Rid of Ants

5 DIY Electrical Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

In this project I’m going to show you how to monitor your home’s energy usage by installing a Sense Home Energy Monitoring Device that you can monitor right from your phone or tablet. This device allows you to view your home’s energy usage in real-time on your phone. With that information you can determine which areas of your home to focus on improving.

Disclosure: This video and article contains an unpaid product integration by Sense. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

One of the things I’m very passionate about is finding ways to make my home more energy efficient. A few months ago I learned about a product called Sense. Sense is an energy monitoring device that installs into your breaker panel and allows you to see how much power each device in your home uses. You can use that information to make more energy efficient improvements to your home. 

Disclaimer:

I’d like to remind you that I am not a licensed electrician. If at any point you are not comfortable tackling this project on your own, please reach out to an electrician that can help you with the installation. This is designed to be a guide to show you how it can be done, but does not replace the expertise or knowledge of a licensed electrician. 

Installing the Device:

The first step to installing this device is unpacking the box and taking a look at all the components. The package contains with a device monitor, an antenna, 2 sensor clips, a power cable, and an optional mounting bracket.

Next you’ll have to get access to your main breaker panel, and shut the power off. Remove the cover panel and have a look at your breaker setup. This device requires that it be wired into a dual pole 220v breaker which is not included in the kit so if you don’t have one available that you can tap into, you’ll have to buy one that matches your panel. If you do need to purchase a breaker, you’ll also have to verify that your breaker panel has space available to install it.

Installing the Antenna

Once you’ve verified you have space available for the install, remove a knock out from the panel box and install the antenna into the hole. From there you can connect the antenna to the device monitor itself. If you don’t have room inside the panel, you can use the optional monitor bracket to install it outside the panel.

Wiring the Device

Install your new breaker if you need to or connect the wiring to your existing breaker. The black and red wires connect to the breaker itself, and the white wire attaches to the neutral bar in your panel.

Connecting the Service Clips

Now this is where things get dangerous if you’re not familiar with your panel box. You’ll need to connect the current sensor clips around the service legs coming into your panel. These 2 wires ARE ALWAYS LIVE even if your panel box is shut off. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES TOUCH THEM. In my case, these wires are hidden underneath the meter on the panel which is secured by the power company with a lock which I didn’t have a key for. So I called my local power company and asked them to come out and shut off the power and remove the lock so that I could access those wires. Since they shut the power service off to the house, there was no danger of me being shocked when I connected the clips. Once I had them installed, they replaced the meter and turned the power back on.

Once I had the wiring all connected, I removed the necessary knockouts on the cover of my breaker panel, reinstalled it, and turned the main power back on at the breaker. From there, the device fires up and starts it’s process.

Download and Set Up the App

Next I downloaded the Sense App on my phone, and began the setup process. It connects via WiFi and prompts you to setup your device. Once logged in, it takes a couple days to calibrate and then it starts the process of identifying devices around your home.

Identifying Devices

The device shows exact energy usage in real-time and starts to identify different devices around your home automatically. It has a smart learning algorithm that can determine which devices are which and starts to label them around your home. You can verify or change the name of the device right in the app. As more homes connect to the app, it continues to learn and define new devices.

You can go around and flip devices on and off and see the effect on your energy usage in real-time. And you can set goals with notifications to keep your energy consumption down, see which devices are using the highest percentage of power, get pretty accurate estimates on your energy bills by inputting your typical costs. They also offer a solar option which will tell you how much energy your solar panels are producing and how much they are offsetting your energy bill if you have solar panels.

Review

Overall, this is a really cool device. It’s helped me realize how inefficient my home is when it comes to heating and air conditioning. I didn’t realize how many hours those devices run on a daily basis which drastically affects my utility bill. Moving forward I’ll be taking that information to continue to invest in ways to offset that energy usage.

I think a device like this can definitely be useful for someone like myself who owns an older, fixer upper that is looking to improve its efficiency. The Sense device can help tell you where your energy and thus where your money is going. This can help you prioritize where you focus your remodel efforts. And over time, this could save you a lot of money. 

I hope you guys enjoyed this project. I’d like to thank the Sense team for sending over this device and allowing me to test it out. 

Check out some of my other home energy & electrical tutorials:

10 DIY Ways to Warm Your Home and Lower Your Heat Bill

How to Install a Post Lamp

One of the fastest ways to drive yourself (or your spouse) crazy during a DIY remodel project is to have the dust carry over into the rest of the house, which is why it’s incredibly important to learn how to keep dust under control while remodeling. Dust can seemingly travel to the farthest corners of the house coating furniture, flooring, windows, and electronics. Dealing with it after the fact is a pain and can be really time consuming to clean all the nooks and crannies. I can’t sit here and lie to you that it’s possible to keep remodel dust 100% contained BUT with a little bit of prep work on the front end and some maintenance throughout the project, it is possible to keep it under control and limited to the areas you’re remodeling. Here are a few things that can help you make dust containment much more manageable!

Disclosure: This post is sponsored by Trimaco. All views and opinions are my own.

1. Budget For Dust Containment

This seems like a no-brainer but almost every person I’ve talked to about this never considered dust containment as part of their remodel cost and in my opinion it’s one of the biggest mistakes DIYers make. We’re not talking a ton of money here, but plan to budget around $100-$200 (depending on the size of your project) on the front end to dedicate towards dust containment. It’s an added cost, but having a clean home during a remodel project is worth it’s weight in gold! Trust me when I tell you that you’ll be glad that you did! You will have spent AT LEAST that amount of money by the end of your project anyway in time, cleaning products, materials, or house cleaners if you don’t prep for it.

2. Plastic is Your Best Friend

Before I get started on demo for any remodel, I always try to contain the project as much as possible in it’s own little bubble. Think of it like you work for the CDC and you’re trying to contain a dangerous virus like the movie “Outbreak”. (Great older movie with Dustin Hoffman. If you haven’t seen it, you should watch it!) Anyway, back to what I was saying. Cover any areas you’re not immediately working on where dust might travel through the house in plastic. Staple it up in place and then seal the edges with tape. You can use duct tape or a more wall friendly tape depending on if you’re keeping the wall or not. I recommend at least a 4 millimeter to 6 millimeter plastic because it’s thin enough to be manageable,but thick enough to withstand the duration of your project without getting destroyed. If you poke a hole in it or tear it during your project, FIX IT RIGHT AWAY! This is the maintenance part I was talking about. Throughout your project you’ll have to continuously check and make sure your enclosure is staying dust proof. Make sure your tape is secure, and a stray nail or sharp corner hasn’t pierced through your enclosure.

3. Do Your Demo Strategically

If you’re doing a bunch of demo as part of your project or maybe removing a wall to open up a space, focus on the areas away from the rest of the house first before moving towards the separating wall. The longer you can keep a permanent barrier between rooms, the better. Before you take out the last wall, build a temporary plastic wall on the other side using some thick plastic and some dust containment poles or a basic wood frame. This wall will serve as your main protective barrier for the rest of your project so make sure you check it for any damage or loose spots regularly as you go about your project.

4. Utilize Your Windows

If you’re lucky enough to have windows in your project area, they can be really helpful as a place to remove demo materials. In addition to that, they can be used to create a positive pressure room by building a box fan enclosure to have the dust blow outside while you’re working. Thick cardboard, scrap plywood, or thick plastic and some tape works great for this. Keep in mind that if the windows are open, there’s likely to be a breeze blowing in if the fan is not running so make sure everything else in the room is sealed up tight!

5. Cover Your Vents

One of the fastest ways to get dust circulating around your house is to not cover your air ducts and air returns. Not only will the dust get in there and get blown around the rest of the house covering every inch of your belongings, but it’ll also clog up your air filters. Seal around all your registers in your work area to make sure it doesn’t become an issue. I still recommend replacing your air filter on your system after any remodel. It’s something you should do every few months anyway.

6. Create Single Entry/Exit Points

There is no faster way to have dust travel throughout your house then to have a bunch of places where you or your crew can go in and out of your project area. Limit it to one doorway or entry point and thoroughly seal all the other access points. Use the windows as places to remove materials if you can so you don’t have to go in and out a lot. At your access point, install a solid dust containment door kit with a zipper like this  E-Z Up Dust Containment Door kit. Make sure you keep it closed up at all times. Even leaving it open for just a few minutes while creating a lot of dust can be enough to have it flow into the rest of the house and make a mess. BE A STICKLER! If you have help on your project, make sure your crew is as diligent about containing the dust as you are!

7. Protect Your Floors! 

Taking a little bit of time up front to protect your floors both inside and outside your project area can save you a huge headache. This goes along with the previous point about creating single entry/exit points. Create singular pathways to and from your project site and to the restroom to protect your floors and make sure you and your crew are using only those pathways.

1. Carpeting – You may not realize how dirty it has become because your carpet will suck up the jobsite dust. If you have kids or pets crawling around on it, it can be dangerous for them. Protect it with some cling wrap like the Easy Mask Protective Carpet Film. It’s easy to install and keeps your carpet protected from tracking and absorbing dust.
2. Hardwoods/Laminates/Linoleum, etc. – Keeping the dust and dirt off harder surface floors is pretty simple with some basic builder’s paper. It’ll keep your floors from getting dirty and your boots from tracking dust through other areas of your house. Line your walkways to and from your project site back to your exterior door and you’ll be protected through the whole house. For a little added protection from scuffs and scratches, try some heavier duty cardboard floor protector.

8. Keep Your Boots On?

One of the biggest culprits of spreading dust is the bottoms of your boots. It may not make a lot of sense to try and take them on and off as you go in and out of your work area. Utilize shoe guards as much as possible or if you want to splurge and try out an awesome new product, check out the E-Z Floor Guard system from Trimaco! This thing allows you to step in, slide back and tear off a sticky protective plastic membrane for the bottom of your boots.      Think of it like a box of cling wrap in your kitchen. It’s very easy to use and you can just stash it next to your door to make sure you can always walk through the house without tracking dust. The dust on the bottom of your boots is trapped to them by the plastic wrap so you have nice clean feet when going through the house!

9. Take Your Cuts Outside!

Many people think that dust containment stops with the demo portion of the remodel so they take down any dust containment they’ve put up and throw it away, but few things generate more dust than cutting and sanding drywall. Hanging drywall is one of the latter steps of your remodel so it’s easy to overlook, but keep your dust containment up for the duration of the project or be prepared to re-hang it once you get to drywall. I recommend doing as much cutting of your drywall outside and then bring the pieces in and hang them. Keep as much dust out as you can!

10. Keep a shop vac handy at all times! 

Drywall dust is prolific and one of the reasons why I absolutely despise doing drywall. I recommend doing everything you can to minimize your dust while you’re sanding it. Consider investing in a drywall sanding dust attachment for your shop vac. Keep that shop vac on hand and suck up any dust that starts to accumulate throughout the project. You’ll be glad you did! Oh yeah, and make sure you wear a mask too! I hope this post gave you some ideas on how to keep your house dust free for your upcoming remodeling projects! If you have any questions or want to chat about your upcoming project(s), contact me. To check out a full list of dust containment products from Trimaco, check out their website! Thanks for reading and good luck with your project! Now get to work!

This year I didn’t travel for the Holidays which left me with some free time to tackle a serious project on the house, the front walkway. The previous owners installed (or had installed) a walkway out of bricks back in the 1980’s (I think), and it had completely fallen apart. The bricks had sunk 2+ inches in some spots, there were loose rolling bricks all over, and some missing entirely. It was a serious hazard for any guests we had over to the house and made me feel pretty embarrassed. All the reason I needed to knock it off the to-do list!

Step #1: Materials

Fortunately I completely lucked out here. A friend of a friend does masonry and paver work for a living and had several pallets of pavers leftover from a previous job that he was willing to part with for nothing more than a bottle of his favorite libation. If it weren’t for his generosity, I wouldn’t have had it in my budget to tackle the walkway. The only problem was that the pavers were at his house and needed to be picked up which was an hour + away and I only have a Ford Explorer SUV. Again I was fortunate that our mutual friend Jordan was willing to lend me a hand and go get them in his truck. It always pays to have good friends when you’re doing things yourself!  The walkway is about 3′ x 72′ in total so we had to make 2 trips to get enough pavers for the job, fully loading down the bed of his truck both times. He has an additional air bag suspension in his truck that we were able to pump up to add some additional weight and not worry about breaking the springs.

Step #2: Demo

With the new pavers ready to go, it was time to demo the existing brick walkway. The bricks came up really easily but there were a TON OF THEM! Moving them really sucked. I ended up putting them in the wheelbarrow and stacking them on an old pallet in the backyard for now. I may reuse them down the road on a future project but for now at least they’re stacked up and out of the way…but it wasn’t fun.

Once I pulled up the old bricks it was pretty apparent why the old walkway failed. They put way too much sand beneath the bricks. Typically you would lay 1 or 2 inches of sand beneath a paver or brick walkway but they had 5 or 6 inches laid down. In addition to that they also had about 1/2″-1″ spacing between bricks. That type of spacing and that much sand just allowed for way too much movement of the bricks and never really locked them in. So if you’re ever laying brick for a walkway, DON’T DO THAT!

The worst part about their blunder was that it became mine to fix, which meant shoveling out all the sand to get down to the base and starting over.

This took me almost a whole day by itself and my back was pretty sore for a few days afterward.

I also removed the landscape timbers on the side farthest from the house because I widened the walkway about 2 inches to minimize cuts of the pavers. Laying out a test pattern and measuring it out gave me the exact width I needed for the new paver walkway. Here’s the pattern.

Doing it this way means I have to make very few cuts which will save me a lot of time on the back end.

Step #3: Prep

With all the sand out and timbers moved it was time to get everything back together and prepped for laying the pavers. This required bringing the walkway up to grade to fill the void left by all the sand I removed. There was no way I was going to shovel in all that dirt in wheelbarrow trips so I borrowed my friends tractor to move some dirt I had piled in the backyard.

Then it was a matter of spreading out the dirt and compacting it. I spoke with the guy I got the pavers from and he told me that a road base or gravel base wasn’t necessary in my case so I trusted his word as someone who does this professionally.

Compacting the base became a nightmare because of continued rain. I ended up having to rent a tiller to till up the dirt a few times in an attempt to help it dry out faster. I couldn’t do any work on the walkway for about 2 days but fortunately it lined up with Christmas so it wasn’t that big of a deal.

Step #4: Installation

With the base compacted I was able to get some landscape fabric installed before adding about 1″ of sand over top and screeding it for level. I ended up reusing a lot of the old sand I removed because it was still in good shape and saved me from having to buy a load of sand. Kept that budget down!

The installation of the pavers themselves went pretty quickly once everything was ready to go and all in I only had to make 20 cuts total on the entire walkway. Most of them were right at the ends where the walkway met the driveway, and where it met the existing porch on the front of the house.

Lastly I laid some paver sand over the whole walkway and made a few additional passes with the plate compactor to lock everything in place.

The Evolution Rage2 chop saw with a diamond blade made quick work of the cuts. Evolution Tools sent over a saw for me to test out and this was the first time I used it. Worked well for cutting rebar to hold the timbers in place and also cut the pavers easily with the diamond blade. Special thanks to Evolution Power Tools for sending over the saw.

All in this project only cost me about $400 and almost all of that money came from the tool rentals of the plate compactor and tiller. I rented both from Home Depot and had to hang onto them for a few days longer than I initially planned because of the rain.

I’m super happy with the result and think it adds a really nice flourish to the front of the house. Now I just need to get the rest of the front cleaned up so the house actually has some curb appeal!

Make sure you guys check out the full video of the project above! Hope it inspires you to tackle that project you’ve been putting off!

If you enjoyed this project, consider checking out some of these other outdoor projects:

DIY Vertical Pallet Garden

How to Install a Camera Motion Light