Sometimes you just get lucky! That’s what happened when my brother and I stumbled upon this old backyard playset for FREE! Sure it needs a little TLC, but that’s not a problem. In this article I’m going to show you the steps of restoring a backyard playset so it’s as good as new!

This project contains a paid product integration from Thompson’s WaterSeal. All opinions herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

While I was home in New York a few weeks ago, my brother got a lead on a free playset from a few friends. Their kids have long outgrown it. They were planning to toss it so we offered to come pick it up and haul it away. Apart from it being pretty weathered, all the major components were still intact. So we hitched up the trailer and hauled it back to my brother’s house.

Assembling the Playset

After about 45 minutes of assembly (and some heavy lifting), the playset was back together and we got a good sense of how much work it needed to be restored. Fortunately, apart from the wood being really weathered and the finish needing to be replaced, it was in decent shape. Nothing major was missing and they had the original roof panels too!

The wood frame of the playset hasn’t been sealed or kept up with for quite a few years so it was pretty clear it was in need of a good sealant. The wood was weathered through and the finish had been completely worn off in some spots. Fortunately there weren’t any major areas of rot or cracking that needed to be replaced.

Sealing & Restoring the Playset

We wanted to stain the playset so it looked pretty close to the original finish. We found the Autumn Brown Semi-Transparent Stain and Sealer at Lowe’s and thought it’d be a perfect fit for this project. The first thing I did was go around the playset and used a putty knife to just knock off any old flaking finish and scraped off any dirt that had accumulated on it.

From there, my brother and I tag teamed the whole playset making sure to cover every inch with the new stain and sealant. We used a combination of a brush and a roller to cover the whole thing.

Another great feature of the stain & sealant we chose is that it is a single coat application. No need to go over it a second time which saves a lot of time. The stain & sealer went on simple and smooth. It covered the discolored areas easily and completely blended it to make it look like a seamless finish. It provides ultimate protection from water and sun damage, giving it long-lasting, durable protection.

We used about half of the gallon container to finish the whole playset. Cleaning up was super easy with just some warm water because it’s a water based product.

Finished Product

We were super happy with how the playset came back to life. Restoring a backyard playset like this is a super easy project. You’d never know it wasn’t new by looking at it! For less than $50 and a couple hours of work, we were able to give the kids an awesome new place to play. The kids absolutely loved it!

I would call this project a serious score! Now if only every project was this easy!

If you liked this project, here are a few other lawn & garden projects and tutorials you might enjoy.

And Click here for more Thompson’s WaterSeal project ideas and inspiration. 

How to Install Artificial Turf

How to Restore a Wheelbarrow

When it comes to ground cover, most homeowners want something “low maintenance.” Few things are as low maintenance as artificial turf. Advancements in turf tech have come a long way from the classic green carpet days. Today I’m going to show you how you can install a beautiful artificial turf lawn at your home. Watch the video above to follow along. 

Disclosure: This video and article contains and unpaid product integration by Synlawn. Check out their full line of turf products here: https://www.synlawn.com/

Click here for a complete list of tools I mentioned in this project. (affiliates)

For this project I’ll be using the SynAugustine547 artificial turf which was provided to me by SynLawn. I found Synlawn after doing a lot of research on artificial turf. What I really like about this product is that Synlawn uses a biobased material that is made from soybeans to create a realistic looking turf that is environmentally friendly and not petroleum based. It’s also anti-microbial, and manufactured in the United States. 

This is one of the rare instances where I’ll say that this isn’t really a pure “DIY” job. Meaning that it’s not really something I recommend doing on your own. That’s not to say it can’t be done (as you’ll see) but at least having several people available to help you will make your life so much easier. But given the social distancing measures in place at the moment, I chose to try and see if I could tackle it on my own. 

Preparing the Base

The first and most important step to getting a quality installation is to properly prepare the base. In this case, I am working in a newly constructed area so it requires filling with base material, vibrating it to force the material to settle, and to grade the base properly. If you’re installing over an existing lawn area, your first step will be to kill the existing lawn and remove as much of it as possible. If you have a solid base to work from and want to skip ahead over the next part, I’ll leave a timecode link down below to take you to the next steps. Otherwise, if you need to fill and grade the area. I’ll show you how to do that now. 

How to Properly Grade the Area

One of the most important steps is making sure the area is graded properly. That means is that it is sloped properly for adequate drainage. In this case, I worked with my building transit to create a grading map of the area. The transit allows you to set a level point of reference so that you can measure the elevation differences across your area to create a grading map. Many pros now use laser levels to achieve this but it’s not a tool I currently own. In this case, I want the highest elevation to be up against the house and slope towards the outer retaining walls at ¼” per foot slope. This area is roughly 18 ft wide, so I want the highest area by the house to be 4.5” higher than the outer wall grade. 

As I fill and compact the fill, I repeatedly check the grade to make sure that it is what I need it to be. Compaction is important because the loose soil/or fill will settle over time so compaction speeds up the settling process and will make sure the installation lasts over time. Adding water throughout the process helps the soil or fill settle and also helps keep the dust down. You can rent both a vibratory plate, which is good for vibrating about 4” deep of material. Or a jumping jack which allows you to compact a little thicker base material. If you are adding a lot of fill to an area, it’s a good idea to compact it in layers along the way until you get the elevation about ½” to ¾” below where you want your final turf elevation to be. 

My Mistake

Now this is where I made a mistake in my initial installation. As I reached my final grade, I should have used a fill material with smalleraggregate like a decomposed granite for the final 4” or so of fill. The road base I used had larger rocks in it (even than what it was supposed to) so it didn’t compact super smooth. When I rolled out the turf initially, I could feel all the little discrepancies. That’s why I’m saying the base preparation is the most important part of the installation. 

Cutting and Installing

Roll out the turf and cut it to the proper size using a utility knife or turf cutting tool. Be sure to cut the turf slightly larger than the area you’re installing in. That way you can trim off any excess later on and ensure complete coverage. If your area is larger than the turf roll you’ll need to seam the turf.

Seaming the Turf

To seam the pieces together, I ripped another strip of the turf (paying attention to make sure the fibers were in the same direction) and then aligned the edges along with the other piece. Once I made sure the pieces lined up properly, I used a few landscape spikes to hold the pieces in place and folded open the seam. Next I rolled out some turf seam tape and staked it in place along the length of the seam. (Don’t buy cheap landscape staples off Amazon unless you want to waste half of them by bending them) I’d recommend just buying 6” galvanized landscape spikes. 

From there, you’ll want to apply a liberal amount of outdoor carpet adhesive to the tape, and spread it evenly across using a notched trowel. Let the glue cure for 10-15 minutes and then slowly work your way down the seam, connecting the two sides and securing the seam in place with landscape spikes. Pay careful attention to make sure you get a tight seam between the two pieces. 

Tightening and Trimming

Make your way around the perimeter of the installed area and use landscape spikes to secure the turf in place. If you notice any loose areas, you can use a carpet kicker to get the turf nice and tight. You can use a variety of different tools to cut off the excess on the edges but I had the best luck with just a regular utility knife. Take your time to carefully cut around any obstacles like trees, planter beds, or drains. 

Adding Infill

Once you have the turf laid out and installed, next you’ll need to add the infill. For residential use, the most common infill is sand. In this case I’m using Envirofill sand which is an antimicrobial that helps prevent bacteria, mold, and mildew from forming in your turf. This infill is perfect for play areas and pets. The infill helps the grass fibers of the turf to stand up, and adds weight to hold the turf in place. It also keeps the turf much cooler than the rubber infill alternatives. 

I used a large seed spreader to spread the sand around the turf making sure to cover the entire surface. I used about 1 bag per 20 Sq. ft as instructed on the bag. 

And finally, once the sand is installed, the final step for the installation is to use a stiff bristled push broom or turf rake to sweep the sand into the fibers and help them stand up. Make sure to work in the same direction across the turf to help create a uniform surface. From there you can do any last minute touch ups around the edges or at the seams with a pair of scissors which will be the last time you’ll ever have to cut this grass! 

And that’s it, you are finished with this project. 

Finished Product

I hope you guys enjoyed it and I hope you learned something new. I know I did as this was my first time installing synthetic turf like this. It’s not a project I recommend you tackle as a one person operation. But it’s definitely something you and a few friends could knock out in a weekend. My family absolutely loves the way this space came together and it’s such a comfortable and nice play area for my son.

If you liked this project I encourage you to subscribe to the channel. Also check out some of these other outdoor projects. 

How to Install Sod

How to Install a Sprinkler System

Thanks for your support!

I’m currently tackling a backyard overhaul project and as part of it, I need to install a few new irrigation zones. I installed this small succulent garden a few years ago which doesn’t require a ton of water. With the heat of the summer, however, I’m still sick of pulling the hose out every time. So today I’m going to show you how I plan to install a sprinkler system for it and some nearby plants.

Here is a list of tools and materials you may need to tackle this project. (affiliates)

1.) Water Supply

Step one is to locate a nearby water supply. In this case I have an unused spigot behind my old shed that I plan to tap into to use as the source for this line. To determine how many sprinklers I can have on this line, I’ll have to do some basic calculations. We need to determine our flow rate, and water pressure for the house. The easiest way to test the water pressure is to use a water pressure gauge like this one and attach it to a spigot. In this case, the water pressure is just shy of 60 PSI.

Next, to determine the flow rate I use a 5 gallon bucket and turn the water on fully to see how long it takes to fill the bucket. Multiply the size of the bucket which is 5 x 60 seconds. Then divide that number by the number of seconds it took to fill. In this case, it’s around 20 seconds. So the flow rate is about 15 gallons/minute.

Once you have that number, it can help you determine how many sprinkler heads you can have on a zone or how many zones you need. In this case, I’ll be installing these pop up Rain Bird 1800 series sprinklers and a couple dedicated drip lines. You can check the flow rate of your chosen sprinkler types and what their coverage is on the manufacturer’s website. I only need about 6 sprinklers total for this zone and each head has a flow rate of less than 1 gpm so I have plenty of pressure and flow rate for the needed coverage. Depending on your layout, you’ll likely need to buy a combination of different pieces, fittings, and unions. I recommend you buy more than you need and return the unused stuff.

2.) Digging the Trench

Once all the stupid math is out of the way, it’s time for some good old manual labor! You’ll have to dig a trench to bury the line. Depending on the size of the area you’re working in and the type of soil you have, that can either be easy or a huge pain in the ass. In most cases for irrigation lines, anywhere from 8 to 12” deep is sufficient to bury your pipes; however, if you live in an area that freezes, make sure you plan to drain your lines at the end of the season so they don’t freeze and rupture during the winter. 

Once you have the digging out of the way, you can start laying out your piping and sprinkler heads. There are a lot of different products out there you can use. I typically just use schedule 40 PVC pipe because I find it easy to work with. In this case I’m using ¾” diameter schedule 40. I just work my way around, laying the pipe. Whenever I reach an area where I want a sprinkler head I use one of these ¾” tee joints with a ½” threaded outlet where I will screw in a threaded riser for the sprinkler head.  At each joint, I use purple PVC primer and cement, making sure to prime each piece and then apply plenty of cement to hold each joint together so they’re water tight.

3.) Connecting the Sprinkler System

Once I’ve laid out and installed all the sprinkler heads, it’s time to connect the line to the water supply. You have a bunch of different options for different types of zone valves here but they all basically do the same thing, they allow the water to kick on either manually when you activate the valve, or on a timer if you have it connected to an irrigation system. Some, like the one I installed here run off solar power and operate on their own.

These “anti-syphon” zone valves allow the water to flow out to the sprinkler lines, but not back-flow and contaminate your drinking water. You install your sprinkler line to the outlet side of the valve and connect the inlet side to your water supply line. Add as many zones as needed based on your flow rate and water pressure. You can even add an isolation valve like this one which allows you to shut off the water to the irrigation lines without shutting off the main water supply to the house.

Once everything is connected, let the cement cure for at least 30 minutes. Then turn on the water and check the pipes for leaks. After that, turn on your zone valve and sit back and watch your plants get watered. Then you can just backfill in your trench and that’s all it takes to install a sprinkler system.

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. It can take a little bit of time to install a sprinkler system, but once you get the hang of it, it’s a relatively simple project you can knock out by yourself and hopefully save yourself some money.

If you liked this project, check out some of my other lawn projects:

Lawnmower of the Future?

3 Things to Prepare Your Lawn for Summer

Thanks for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

Disclosure: This video and article contains a paid product integration by ZEP USA. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

Cleaning the Chipped Area

This chip is a medium sized chip and is about 6” wide, and about an inch deep.
So the first thing we need to do is clean out the chip of any debris or loose chunks. Start by breaking out the loose chunks with a chisel or other tool like a screwdriver.

Once you have any loose chunks removed, use a wire brush to loosen up any debris and dirt that have built up over time. Getting the surface of the chipped out area clean is the most important part of this project. You need to make sure your new patch can firmly adhere to the old concrete.

Once you have the loose material removed from the chip, you’ll need to use a concrete cleaning product like Zep’s Driveway and Concrete Pressure Wash Concentrate.

This Concrete and Driveway cleaner is perfect for this application because it is a concentrated concrete cleaner that easily removes tire marks, dirt, grease, and oil from any concrete, brick, or asphalt surfaces. For a small chip, you can apply a small amount of the concentrated cleaner to a container of water at the mixture indicated on the bottle. Or you can do what I did and take the opportunity to add a diluted mixture to a pressure washer and just clean your whole driveway. Pay careful attention to the chipped out areas and make sure you thoroughly clean them.

Apply Concrete Patching

Once the chipped out area has had some time to dry, next you’ll need to get a small
amount of a concrete vinyl patching compound like this one. These are available off the shelf at your local big box store and are super easy to use. Simply add a small
amount of water to the powdered mixture. Then mix it up until you have a peanut
butter like consistency, and apply it to the chipped out area with a masonry or
disposable trowel.

You can feather out the surrounding area to match the existing
concrete. For corner chips or areas next to expansion joints, you may have to take a little extra time to form the patch to follow the existing contours. Once the compound has set up for about 20 minutes, use a grouting sponge and some water to clean any excess patching compound from around the patched area and create a seamless patch. For deep or large chips, you may have to apply several coats of the patching
compound to fill the void. And if the area around your chip is heaved, you may need
to do some additional steps of flattening that area using an angle grinder and a diamond grinding wheel.

So that’s it for this episode of Home School’d. I hope you guys enjoyed it and I hope
you learned something. If you’re interested in purchasing any of the products I used
in this video, links to all the tools and materials can be found in the description
below. I also have tips on how to fix a crack in concrete, so check that out here.

Thank you guys so much for checking out this post. For more outdoor projects, click on some of the links below.

DIY Paver Walkway Install

Find the Right Pressure Washer for you!

https://pressurewashr.com/

The team at Cub Cadet sent me their NEW all electric CC30e lawn mower to put to the test

Disclosure: This video and article contains a paid product integration by Cub Cadet. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

The Battery System

The yard is just over an acre in size and we were able to tackle the whole thing on a single full charge. This mower is powered by a single brush-less motor and the blade itself is directly powered by the motor so there’s no changing of belts or anything like that. The mower plugs in using the included cable via a standard 110v outlet. It takes about 4 hours to fully charge.

What’s nice is that you can still operate the mower at a partial charge without needing to fully charge the unit before operating it. The remaining charge is indicated next to the mower start button. 

Usability

One of the most noticeable differences between the CC30e and a standard gas mower is the sound. When you get on the unit and start it, it doesn’t make a sound beyond a beep. The mower operates virtually silent without the blade engaged. Even when the blade is engaged, it’s substantially less noisy. So now you can operate early in the morning or later in the evening without bothering your neighbors. 

For ease of use, this mower is about as user friendly as it gets. It’s one of the most straightforward mowers I’ve ever used. You control the throttle via a single pedal on the driver’s right foot, a brake with the left foot, and reverse with a single button. There’s a parking brake switch, and even cruise control for those longer straight runs. It even includes operator presence safety, meaning it shuts off if you get off.

No Assembly Required!

The mower comes fully assembled and ready to go out of the box once it’s been charged fully with the only assembly being whether you’d like to utilize the mulching/bagging feature or the side discharge attachment for the mower deck. 

For cutting height, you have 5 cut heights ranging from 1.5” to 4”. These are easily adjustable with the lever on the driver’s right side and a cutting area of 30”. 

Final Thoughts

Overall I really like this mower. I think it’s pretty obvious that the future of power tools and yard equipment is headed towards all electric. This mower proves that you can have the performance of a gas machine with much less maintenance. This mower doesn’t need any oil changes, filter changes, or spark plug changes. As long as you keep the blades sharp and the battery charged, you’re good to go. 

I think this mower is a great tool for the average homeowner with a small to medium sized lot that is relatively flat. I do think if you had a larger or bumpy lawn, having a suspension system would be helpful. Additionally if you have a yard that’s relatively wide open, you may want a wider deck. My brother’s lawn is pretty large, but it was a more than capable machine to handle it. 

If you have any further questions about this mower, feel free to leave them in the comments down below and I will do my best to answer them. Or you can visit their website at cubcadet.com.

I want to say a quick thank you to Cub Cadet for sending this lawnmower for me to test out. If you’re in the market for something similar I’d highly recommend you check it out before you make your purchase. You can’t beat the no maintenance aspect of an electric mower and it’s really cool to finally see a riding mower that is capable of actually replacing the need for a gas mower. 

If you liked this post, check out these outdoor projects as well!

How to Install Sod

DIY Raised Planter Box (w/ Hidden Wheels)

Thank you so much for watching and I’ll see you next time!

Sod is a popular option in many renovations because it gives you the option of having an instant green lawn without going through the long process of seeding and growing a lawn. This project isn’t too difficult, but it is a bit labor intensive depending on the state and size of your project area.

#1: Preparing the Area

I am starting with a newly created area that I added with the construction of some retaining walls. The first step was to add fill dirt to the area. Then I could compact it to minimize settling. 

If you are replacing a current lawn, your first step will be to kill the existing lawn and remove it. Don’t install sod over existing grass because the existing lawn will decompose underneath and heat up killing the sod above. 

Once you’ve killed and removed the existing lawn, you can then use a rototiller to prep the area and loosen the existing soil. In my case, I brought the grade up using basic fill dirt. Then I added a few inches of top soil to bring it up to the grade that I needed. 

You’ll also need to make sure you have irrigation installed in the sod area. This is crucial if you’re living in a dry climate. Sod requires regular watering to successfully root so having an irrigation system or regular watering schedule is necessary for success.

You’ll need to make sure your irrigation system has head-to-head coverage so that  your sod is fully watered. If you’d like some tips on how to install a sprinkler system, I’ll walk you through the process here.

From there, use a large rake to fine grade the area. Depending on the sod you choose, you’ll want to make sure the finished grade is that thickness below any walkways or driveways. In my case, the finished grade is ½” below the surrounding patio. Apply a sod starter fertilizer/seed starter over the area and then use a roller to settle and firm the surface.

#2: Installing the Sod

Measure the area you’ll be installing and order your sod. Many sod distributors can deliver same day or next day and once it arrives, begin installing it immediately as it needs to be installed before drying out and wilting in the sun. Make sure you have the day set aside to tackle the project in one go when deciding when to have the sod delivered if you’re having it delivered. 

In this case, I’m installing a Marathon II sod which is dense, durable, and quick to recover. I recommend finding a sod dealer in your area that can help you choose which sod is best for your application and climate. Sod pricing can vary greatly depending on your area, so do some research on expected pricing for your area. 

The sod arrives on a pallet and in strips. Start by laying the sod along the longest edge or boundary first and stagger each new row in a brick like pattern. Cut the sod around any obstacles or edges with a large knife or spade shovel. I found using a drywall knife actually worked pretty well. You just have to clean it well afterwards. 

Make sure you’re bumping the edges of each piece of sod tightly to those around it and water lightly once you’ve installed every 200sq ft of sod.  

#3: Preparing the Sod to Last

Once you’ve covered the entire area, use the roller to roll the entire area and insure solid contact between the sod and the soil beneath. 

Next turn on the sprinkler system and let it run until the sod is good and soaked. Check the recommended guidelines for watering schedule of your chosen side. In my case, I watered 3 times a day for the first week, and then scale back to twice a day for the rest of the month. Once established, I scaled it back further to a couple times a week. Try to water as early in the morning as possible but not before 4am. 

Even though it may seem early, make sure you cut the sod a week after installation or once it reaches around 3”-3.5” tall and fertilize it once a month thereafter for best results. And that’s it, you’re done with your project.

I hope you guys enjoyed this project and I hope you learned something. Installing sod can be a bit labor intensive but installing it is definitely something most homeowners can tackle on their own.

Thanks for stopping by, and I’ll see you next time!

Today I’m going to show you how to build a super simple, DIY vertical pallet garden by upcycling an old wooden pallet. This project can be knocked out in less than an hour and can be used for a variety of plants.

Step #1: Find a Pallet

Pallets are available all over the place. If you’re resourceful, you may be able to find one for free but you could always find a local business and ask if they’re willing to part ways with one of theirs if you’re having trouble finding one. Check Craigslist or local listings and you should be able to find something in your area. BUT make sure the pallet you are using is safe to use as a garden. If you’re not sure if the pallet you have is safe for use, check out my detailed article on How to Identify if a Pallet is Safe to Use.

Step #2: Add Landscape Fabric

Roll out landscape fabric approximately twice the length of the pallet you are using and then cut the fabric in half down the middle with scissors or a razor blade.

Next, use a staple gun to staple the fabric in place on the backside of the pallet. You’ll want to make pockets deep enough to hold soil as you staple the fabric in place. Pull some fabric to create slack and staple it so the pocket will not lose the soil being held inside.

Step #3: Add Potting Soil

Add potting soil in each pocket you created in the landscape fabric. You’ll want to add enough for the plants to be able to root and fill to the top of the pallet slats.

Step #4: Choose Your Plants & Plant

Choose the plants you’d like to have in your vertical pallet garden. This design works really well for succulents but you could also plant annuals or small seasonal flowers. I wouldn’t really recommend trying to plant any vegetables as there’s not enough soil to allow them to really grow.

The finished DIY vertical pallet garden is a beautiful accent to any home’s landscape and even works as a way to add some greenery to an apartment balcony or home without a sizable yard.

If you liked this project, check out some of these other outdoor projects you might enjoy.

DIY Paver Walkway Installation

Adding Curb Appeal with a Decorative Door Glass Insert

Front Porch Remodel