Step 1: Identify the Problem

The first step is to figure out what’s causing the problem. Is it a leaky flapper? A busted fill valve? Is the flapper chain just stuck? Or did your toddler throw their toy down the toilet again? Take a deep breath and lift the lid off the tank. SOME toilets have different mechanisms but for the sake of this project we’ll assume you have a traditional fill valve/ flapper combination.

Check the Flapper

The flapper is the little rubber thingy that controls the water flow from the tank to the bowl. It’s usually connected to the flush lever with a chain. Sometimes the fix is as simple as freeing the chain from whatever it is stuck on. If the rubber flapper is damaged or worn, it can cause the toilet to run. Don’t worry, this is an easy fix. First you’ll need to shut off the water at the valve on the wall behind the toilet. Next, just remove the old flapper and replace it with a new one. There are a few different mounting types so make sure you check how it mounts on the hinge side. Often times ones that say “Universal” don’t match the universe you’re living in! Once you replace it, turn the water back on and give it few test flushes to make sure it’s still not leaking.

Inspect the Fill Valve

“Okay, what’s a fill valve?” The fill valve is responsible for refilling the toilet tank with water after you flush. If it’s not working properly, it can cause the toilet to run continuously. Usually a fill valve has a float on it which triggers the water to turn on and off. If the float is stuck down or damaged, the water won’t know when to shut off. To check it, lift the float mechanism up and down (with the water on). If the float is in the down/lowest position, it should call for water. It should shut off at its upper position. (You can adjust the height of the fill valve float on most assemblies) Flush the toilet and test the float and also listen for any hissing sounds that aren’t caused by running water. If you hear anything unusual, it’s time to replace the fill valve.

Check for Leaks

If the flapper and fill valve are working properly, it’s time to check for leaks. Add a few drops of food coloring to the back of the tank and wait for 30 minutes. If the water in the bowl changes color (without flushing), that means there’s a leak somewhere in the tank assembly or bowl. That may require removing the tank off the toilet base and doing some further inspection for worn seals/gaskets.

Make the Repairs (DIY, Baby!)

Now that you’ve identified the problem, it’s time to make the necessary repairs. Whether it’s replacing the flapper or the fill valve, or fixing a leak, you got this. You’re a DIY master! And if all else fails, it’s time to call in the big guns – a professional plumber. But seriously, you got this. Here’s how you can do it.

How to Replace a Toilet Fill Valve

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

At the wall there should be a water shutoff valve of some kind. It may be a modern quarter turn, or an older shutoff of some kind. Make sure you turn off the water supply before moving to the next step.

Step 2: Flush the Toilet and Disconnect the Supply Hose

The water supply hooks to the toilet with a flexible water line. Use your hand or a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the water line from where it is attached to the toilet. (This is the bottom of the fill valve) Keep a bucket or towel nearby to catch any water that didn’t drain from the toilet tank or water line when it was disconnected.

Step 3: Remove the Retaining Nut

Most of the time there is a retaining nut and flexible washer holding the fill valve in place (right by where the water line attached). Use the pliers if you have to to loosen the nut and remove the nut from the bottom (the rubber washer is usually inside the tank and will lift out with the assembly). Some water from the tank may come out of the hole in the bottom. This is normal as the tank rarely empties fully on a flush. The fill valve assembly should now be loose.

Step 4: Lift the Fill Valve Assembly from the Tank

Disconnect any additional flexible hoses from inside the tank and lift out the fill valve assembly. It should come out easily. If not, double check you’ve removed any locking nuts.

Step 5: Replace with New Fill Valve Assembly

The new fill valve assembly should go right back into the same spot and install in the reverse order of the removal. Follow the instructions on your new valve to adjust the float height, and determine how much water to use per flush. Most adjust easily with a retaining clip or by twisting the riser up or down.

Step 6: Re-Connect the Water Line

Reinstall the locking nut on the underside of the toilet tank, making sure the rubber gasket is installed on the bottom of the new assembly. Make sure the fill valve assembly is not turned against the inside of the tank and it can move properly up and down. Then secure the lock nut and washer in place. Reconnect the water supply line and turn on the water to test and make sure everything works properly.

Step 7: Enjoy Your Throne!

This part is pretty self explanatory.

There you have it, a DIY guide on how to diagnose and fix a running toilet. Don’t let a little running water ruin your day. You can fix this yourself. Good luck!

Like this content? Check out more DIY Plumbing tips below!

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How to Install a Bathroom Faucet

Be honest, when was the last time you drained and flushed your hot water tank/heater? Last year? 5 years ago? Never?!?! Did you even know that was something you should be doing semi-regularly? Well I can assure you that not only is it something you SHOULD be doing, it’s something you should be doing every year!

Why Should I Drain my Water Heater?

Most homeowners I talk to have never drained and flushed their water heater. Understandable I suppose, it’s not something you learn about in school so if you never knew you were supposed to, why would you? Flushing your water tank is really simple and it helps prolong the life of the tank. Over time, lime, calcium, and other minerals in your water can create deposits in the tank. (Especially if you have hard water) Periodically draining and flushing your water tank helps loosen sediments that build up and cause problems with the heating elements. Over time, deposits and corrosion can shorten the life of the tank. There’s never a good time to not have hot water in your home! Now’s the time to add it to your to-do list! Here’s how to do it!

Step #1: Turn off the Power & Supply Valve

Either shut off the gas at the shutoff valve (Typically a valve connected to a yellow flex gas line running to the tank), or unplug the tank if it’s an electric tank. (You can also turn off the breaker to the water heater if you’re uncomfortable unplugging or unsure.)

Also close the cold water supply line valve. There’s typically a valve at the top of the tank. (If you’re not sure, you can CAREFULLY touch your hand on the pipes at the top to see which one is warm and which is cold. Don’t burn yourself! You want to shut off the cold supply line.) If you don’t have a valve there, shut the water off at the closest available shutoff OR you can shut off the main valve to the house if you need to.

Step #2: Connect a Hose to the Drain Valve

If you don’t have an already established drain line, connect a garden hose to the drain outlet on the bottom of the tank. REMEMBER THAT THE WATER IN THE TANK IS HOT! Either let the tank sit idle for a few hours, or carefully direct the hose outside or into your sump pump if you have one. Make sure the hose is directed to a safe place where no children or pets can be scalded by hot water.

Step #3:  Open the Drain Valve

Open the drain valve and allow all the water in the tank to run out. Depending on the size of the tank, this can take 15-20 minutes to drain. You’ll typically need a flat head screwdriver to open the valve.

Step #4: Turn the Water Back On

Once the water stops running from the hose, turn the water back on. You’ll want to allow the tank to flush directly out the hose for a few minutes. After that, I recommend you close the drain valve and allow the tank to fill at least halfway or so. Allow the tank to fill for 10-12 minutes.

Step #5: Shut Off the Water Again and Repeat Flush

Basically you’re going to do the same thing again. Shut off the water supply and open the drain valve. You’ve just flushed the tank to get the water to stir up any loose sediment and get it to be able to drain from the tank. Allow all the water to run from the tank again.

Before you turn the water back I recommend you also check the Anode Rod.

What is The Anode Rod?

Most homeowners I talk to don’t know what an anode rod is let alone know that it’s something that needs to be maintained with your hot water heater. The Anode Rod is a piece of sacrificial metal (usually magnesium or aluminum) that is located within your water heater. It attracts the corrosive elements of your water like calcium away from the internal components of the tank and your tank walls.

Changing your anode rod should be done every few years to make sure the life of your water heater isn’t shortened prematurely because of corrosion.

Step #6: Check or Replace the Anode Rod

The anode rod is mounted to the top of the tank and is threaded in place within the tank. Use a socket wrench or pliers to unthread the rod and check it for wear. If it is badly corroded or completely disintegrated, you need to replace it. Do a quick google search to find a replacement rod for your particular brand of water heater.

Once you reinstall the new anode rod…

Step #7: Reconnect the Heater

Make sure all valves and fittings are tightened and then turn the water supply valve back on for the tank allowing it to fill once again. Re-open the gas valve and follow all safety instructions to re-ignite the heater if you have a gas tank. CAUTION: Failure to follow ignition instructions can cause injury or death. Carefully follow all instructions. 

If you have an electric heater, plug it back in or turn the breaker back on to the unit.

How Do I Know if it’s Time to Replace My Water Heater?

There are several warning signs that your water heater might be on the outs! Here are a few things to look out for. Some issues can be repaired with new parts, while other issues may indicate the need for a new heater. Here’s what to look out for.

1.) Over 10 Years Old

If your water tank is over 10 years old, it might be time for a replacement. If you’re not having problems yet there’s no need to swap it right away, BUT you should probably budget for a new one because you’ll inevitably need one in the next couple years. Electric tanks typically have a little longer life span but both can be shortened by hard water.

2.) Leaking

If your tank is leaking, that’s a big sign that it needs replacing. It often happens on older tanks where corrosion and rust are problems. Sometimes it can be the result of keeping the temperature on the tank set too high or a faulty pressure relief valve. Over time that increased pressure can cause wear on the components.

A leaking tank can be extremely dangerous if not addressed as a leak indicates an issue with the integrity of the tank that can lead to a tank explosion! BAD NEWS BEARS!

3.) Discolored or Cold Water

If you’re getting rusty colored water or cold water after a short period of time, that could be an indication that your water heater needs attention. Especially with the latter. Old houses can have old galvanized pipes which corrode a lot so it may not be indicative of a faulty tank BUT if you’re noticing that AND a change in water temperature, you’re likely having an issue with the tank.

It could be that a heating element needs replacing because it has corroded. OR you may need to replace the tank itself. In either case, a closer inspection is warranted to find the problem.

Installing a New Water Heater

WARNING: Installing a new water heater carries the risk of electrical shock and/or exposure to gas fumes/vapors and can carry the risk of explosion if not done correctly. 

Installing a new water heater isn’t a job for the faint of heart and can be a little dangerous IF you don’t know what you’re doing. It is a task that a handy homeowner can accomplish on their own BUT as always it’s something that needs to be done carefully and correctly. If there are any doubts about your ability to do it, I’d recommend that you leave it to a professional.

Need to Replace an Electric Water Heater?

Check out the New High-Efficiency Rheem ProTerra Hydrbid Electric Water Heater with Leak Guard. 

The Rheem ProTerra Hybrid Electric Water Heater is 4x more efficient than a standard electric water heater, and has an automatic water shut-off in the event of a leak to provide additional peace of mind. You can also control the settings of your water heater directly from your mobile device for added flexibility and is installed just like a standard electric water heater.

If you enjoyed this content, check out some of these other DIY home maintenance projects.

It’s Time to Change Your Home’s Air Filters!

How to Install a Home Water Filtration System

Regularly cleaning your chimney is an important part of keeping your home safe for the winter months. That’s because as you use your fireplace to burn wood for warmth (or just for seasonal atmosphere), a highly flammable carbon based, tar-like substance called creosote begins to build up on the inside of your chimney walls. Over time, this build up can ignite and burn at over 2000° Fahrenheit which can be extremely difficult to extinguish and quickly spread to other areas of your home. 

In fact, on average there are over 25,000 of these chimney fires every year that lead to over $125 million in property damage. (According to the Chimney Safety Institute of America) 

Fortunately, cleaning your chimney isn’t a super challenging task and is something most homeowners can tackle on their own if they choose to. So today I’m going to show you how you can do it. You should add this to your to-do checklist every fall to make sure that your home is ready for the winter. 

The Right Tools

The first thing you’ll need to do is purchase a simple chimney sweeping brush online or at a hardware store. There are a ton of different options available in various sizes so you may want to go on your roof and measure the diameter of your chimney liner to make sure you buy one that fits. I bought one that attaches to the end of a drill on Amazon for about $60. I’ve made a list of all the tools you may need to tackle this project. 

Seal Off the Fireplace

Next you’ll want to use some plastic and tape to tape off the fireplace area or make sure your wood stove is closed and sealed tightly. The cleaning process creates a lot of loose soot and you don’t want all that flying around your house. I recommend using a 4-6 mil plastic and some duct tape to seal off the area thoroughly. 

I also like to place a shop vac hose into the sealed off area so that any loose chimney dust that falls into the fireplace can get sucked up. It’s not a perfect system but it helps keep chimney dust out of your home.

Access the Roof

From there you’ll need to get up on your roof so make sure you can do that safely with a sturdy ladder. It becomes a little more challenging for steeper pitched roofs so make sure you take the necessary safety precautions so that you can access the chimney safely. Depending on the height of your chimney stack, you may need an additional ladder or step stool to get to the top. 

Once you’re up on the roof, remove the chimney cap. It’s usually just a few screws holding it in place. If you don’t have a chimney cap in place, you should definitely purchase one. Not only do they prevent birds and other animals from nesting, or climbing down the liner but they also keep other debris like leaves and branches out of your chimney. To my knowledge they’re also now required during a home inspection so if you ever plan to sell your home you’ll need to have one installed. They’re not very expensive online. Most are adjustable within different size ranges. You can just measure your chimney liner and buy one in the size range that fits. 

Inspect Your Chimney Liner

Next you’ll want to use a flashlight to shine down the chimney and see what you’re dealing with. If you have a GoPro or action camera you can also send that down the chimney to see any visible obstructions and inspect the condition of the chimney. In my case it looks pretty good, just needs to be cleaned. 

Assemble Chimney Brush & Clean the Chimney

From there attach the fiberglass rods to each other and begin to feed them down the chimney. Make sure you have a good respirator, safety glasses, and gloves on hand. If you have one that attaches to a drill like this one, once you’ve fed the rods down the chimney and you’ve reached the length of your chimney liner, attach the other end to the drill. 

I like to start at the bottom and work my way up the chimney, but it doesn’t really matter how you do it. Just work your way through the entire liner, and make sure you clean it thoroughly. Once you think you have it nice and clean, use your flashlight or camera to make sure it all looks good. 

Once your chimney flue (liner) is all cleaned, replace your chimney cap and you’re good on the roof. From there, find your chimney clean out which is usually on the backside of your fireplace or chimney and use a shovel or shop vac to remove all the debris that has fallen. 

Clean the Firebox

After you’ve allowed all the dust to settle, you can remove the plastic on the inside of the house and clean the inside of the fireplace as well. 

And that’s it, you’re good to enjoy many warm fires in your fireplace or wood stove for the winter months!

It doesn’t hurt to burn one of these creosote busting logs in your fireplace every once in a while. They’re designed to help keep creosote from building up, but they should never be used as a replacement for a good chimney cleaning. You can use them if you want to but you also need to clean the chimney every year. 

Update Your Fireplace with a Gas Firelog Set

If you have a gas starter on your fireplace and don’t want to deal with the hassle of a wood fire every year, you can also replace your wood burning fireplace with either a gas fireplace insert OR a gas fire log set. These log sets are a little expensive, but use either natural gas or propane to create a clean burning fire without the hassle of creating a lot of ash and soot. 

So that’s it for this project! I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it helped you get your fireplace ready for the long winter ahead. If you enjoyed this project, here are some other Winter DIY projects to keep your home warm all winter long! 

Warm Your Home & LOWER Your Heat Bill

https://mrfixitdiy.com/winter-is-coming-is-your-house-ready/

Disclosure: This article contains a paid product integration by Trane Residential. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

Why Change Your Filters?

Your home breathes just like we do. Dust, smoke, dirt, mold, fumes, and other elements from the outside are brought in every time you open a door or window and even with changes in pressure systems due to weather events. These things end up in the air in your home and it’s the responsibility of your heating & cooling system to circulate, collect, and filter these particles out of the air and deliver you clean, temperature controlled air back to keep your home both comfortable and clean.

In order for your heating and cooling systems to work properly, they need to be able to pull air in. A filter that is old and dirty is like going for a jog with a plastic bag over your head with only a tiny pinhole poked in it! Not only is your body going to have to work harder to try and keep you going, but you’re also probably not going to make it very far before you collapse due to asphyxiation. Your home’s heating and cooling system is no different. When the filter is plugged or dirty, it has to work harder to do its job. With prolonged neglect, the components will overheat, wear out, or fail entirely which can lead to thousands of dollars in repairs or replacements.

Fortunately changing the air filters in your home is typically one of the simplest (and most inexpensive) DIY jobs a homeowner can do. It usually requires very few (if any) tools so even the most inexperienced people can do it.

How to Locate Your Filter

Depending on your home’s heating and cooling system, you may have one or several filters. Typically a home that has a single furnace/cooling system only has one filter while a larger home that has multiple heating/cooling zones may have more than one. In either case, locating your furnace is usually a good place to start. Check your utility closet, or basement to find your system. The filter on your furnace may be attached to the side in an enclosure, or it may be inside the unit under a cover. If so, turn the power off to the furnace before changing the filter to avoid damaging any components.

If you have a roof mounted or attic based system, the filter may also be mounted to the ceiling in a hallway or living area under a grate. In all cases, the filter is on the air intake/return of your HVAC system as it filters the air that is pulled into the system.

Changing Your Filter(s)

Once you’ve located your HVAC system and filter, all that’s left to do is change the filter!

Step #1: Remove the Cover Grate

Overhead filters usually have a grate door which can swing down to access the filter, while furnace filters may be under the unit or beside it. Some filters may be held in with a wire or retaining clip.

Step #2: Remove the Dirty Filter

You know a filter is in need of replacement if you have trouble seeing light through it, or it is visibly dirty. When in doubt, it doesn’t hurt to replace it especially if it’s been more than 6 months since it was last changed.

Step #3: Make Sure You Buy the Proper Size Replacement

Knowing the size of the air filter you are replacing is important to make sure you are replacing it with the proper sized replacement. The size of your filter is listed on the filter itself typically as a 3 number combination (e.g. 16 x 25 x 1) When shopping for a replacement filter, you will need these numbers to buy the correct replacement.

For replacement filters, I recommend you use the new Trane Comfort Performance Filters which you can find at Walmart.com. Trane has been a leading manufacturer of HVAC systems for decades and their new Comfort Performance filters are compatible with virtually all HVAC systems.

Step #4: Replace Your Air Filter

Before re-installing your filter, it’s a good idea to place the date on the side of the filter so you have a reference for when it was last changed next time you check it. It’s also not a bad idea to set yourself a reminder on your calendar to change it again in 3-6 months.

Reinstall your new air filter (paying attention to the arrow on the side that indicates air flow direction), re-attach any retaining wires or clips, and close any grates or doors that you previously opened to access the filter. Also be sure to remember to turn the power back on to the furnace or system if you turned it off.

So that’s it for this project! It’s a simple periodic maintenance task you should add to your to-do list to keep your home’s HVAC system in good shape. It’s inexpensive, and will keep your system running properly for years if you keep up with it. Much like your car, regular preventative maintenance goes a long way towards keeping your home in good working order.

Thanks for reading this article. If you enjoyed it, here are some other projects you might also enjoy. See you next time!

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