I made a list of my favorite tools I bought or used in 2020 so I thought, “why not update it with some tools I’ve bought since then?” I’m constantly buying and testing out tools (and I occasionally get some pro bono). I’m always discovering new *to me* tools that I think are awesome and that I want to share with you guys in case you’re looking for new tools to add to your arsenal. Continue reading below to see my 10 Tool Recommendations for 2022!

This list is always changing, but these tools have my vote for favorites I’ve used in the last year or so! I know some of these items might be a little spendy for the average person, which I totally understand. Some of these items took me years to pull the trigger on. I tend to come from the school of thought that if you’re saving money on the labor by DIYing a project, you can use that savings to invest in some tools that will help make your life easier.

Here’s the full list of tools via my Amazon Affiliate storefront if you’d like to purchase any of them. You don’t pay any extra and it helps support the Mrfixitdiy brand. You can learn more about the types of compensation I accept on my disclosures page.

Without further ado here’s the list in no particular order.

1.) DeWalt FlexVolt 60v Max 6-1/2″ Track Saw

DeWalt FlexVolt 60v Max 6-1/2″ Track Saw – $399

I’ll be honest. I never really used a track saw much before this year. I’ve always been pretty confident in my ability with a circular saw and when I needed it, I always just clamped down a level or straight edge to get a clean cut. That all changed this year when I bought the DeWalt Track saw. It has completely overhauled the way I cut sheet goods or just need to make a clean, straight cut. Having the flexibility of the 60v cordless power is amazing! It helped me so much when I tackled the massive kitchen remodel I tackled this year. HIGHLY recommend!

2.) Graco Magnum X7 Paint Sprayer

Graco Magnum X7 Paint Sprayer – $390

In the past I’ve always rented a Sprayer from Home Depot when I needed one for a larger job. That changed this year as I tackled a bunch of large home improvement projects and it didn’t make sense to rent a sprayer a bunch of times. I own the Graco TC Pro Handheld Cordless Sprayer also BUT when it came to painting the ceiling in my living room, and the cabinets and kitchen for my remodel, I needed something that could hold a lot more paint. The performance of the X7 was awesome, whether it was painting the exterior of the house, or the fine finish of the cabinets. I used the Graco FFLP208 for the fine finish tip for painting my cabinets. Swapping the tips gave me tremendous versatility and was worth it’s weight in gold!

3.) Festool 574930 CT 26 E HEPA Dust Extractor

Festool 574930 CT 26 Dust Extractor – $740

Look, I know spending $700+ on a shop vac seems insane! I told myself that FOR YEARS. I could never justify the expense of it and couldn’t see how it warranted that price. Well this past year I finally bit the bullet and bought my first Festool product and this was it. I bought it because I needed something for refinishing my kitchen cabinets in place. Since I reused many of the cabinet boxes and sanded them in place in the kitchen, I needed something that could keep the dust as manageable as possible. To be honest, I’ve never used a vacuum that even compares to keeping the dust down like this one does. Sanding the cabinets was virtually dustless. I paired this with my second Festool purchase, the Festool DTS 400 REQ-Plus Sander, and was not at all disappointed in my purchase. I was quoted over $5000 to refinish and paint the cabinets which wasn’t in my budget so this was the next best thing. 

4.) True Position Cabinet Hardware Jig

True Position Cabinet Hardware Jig – $199

This was another upgrade for me this year. I previously had another cabinet hardware jig but it just wasn’t up to par. With this jig you can easily set repeatable positioning for perfect placement on doors and drawer pulls which was huge for me to get a consistent look across all my kitchen cabinets. I love this tool and will be using it in all my cabinet projects moving forward!

5.) Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18 Ga. Brad Nailer

Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18 Ga. Brad Nailer – $279

This was one of those tools I got from my friends over at Northern Tool & Equipment earlier this year. I’ve wanted a cordless brad nailer for a long time so I jumped at the chance to get my hands on this thing. Needless to say I was NOT disappointed. In fact, I love it so much I bought one for my brother for his birthday. This thing has been an absolute game changer for most of my woodworking projects as well as for trim and finish carpentry projects around the house. This is absolutely the first tool I reach for with glue-ups when I need something to hold while the glue sets up. It’s reliable, powerful, and versatile. Works perfect with the rest of my Fuel Lineup on the 18v battery lineup. If you’re in the market for a cordless brad nailer, this is easily my choice.

6.) Bora Tool Wood Storage Rack

Bora Tool Wood Storage Rack – $49.99

You can never have too much lumber storage! I spent WAY too much time tripping over lumber in my shop earlier this year (and every year quite frankly). I invested in a few more of these racks this year to help get materials up off the floor so that I could navigate around the shop safely. If you have any available wall space to put one (or a bunch) of these up, you’ll thank yourself for pulling the trigger on these. Super easy assembly and for under $50 on Amazon right now, it’s a no brainer!

7.) Kreg Tool Concealed Hinge Jig

Kreg Tool Concealed Hinge Jig – $54.99

Between rebuilding all my kitchen cabinets to my office and some shop cabinets, I did a buttload of cabinetry this year! This jig is a must if you’re using concealed hinges. I had another concealed hinge jig from a Rockler for a few years but I wasn’t crazy about it. This one is much simpler, intuitive, and versatile. Not to mention it’s $29 on Amazon which is a steal IMO. Adjusting it is super easy with a phillips head screwdriver and it fits the majority of concealed hinges you’ll find on the market. Cheap, easy, and effective! My 3 favorite things!

8.) Milwaukee Voltage Detector

Milwaukee Voltage Detector – $30

I’ve had this tool for a few years now but I got a TON of use out of it this year already. In fact, I used it so much that I broke my first one and had to buy a replacement. If you’re doing any electrical work around the house this is a must have. With my various remodeling projects this past year, I did a lot of electrical work. Moving to a new house, I also have done a ton of troubleshooting on the new place to figure out the electrical layout. This is my go-to tool for checking for live (hot) wires, line & load wires, and identifying circuits. It’s a super simple tool but it has paid for itself 100x over. It’s about the size of a sharpie so it’s super convenient to add to an electrical pouch or carry in your pocket. It has a loud beep and red light that flashes when voltage is present so it’s pretty fool proof (just make sure it’s on). It also has a little flashlight on the end that can be helpful in dark situations and to know that the pen is on. Highly worthwhile purchase for both convenience and personal safety.

9.) POPULO Electric Drain Auger

Populo Electric Drain Auger – $99

This was one of the more recent tools I bought at the end of last year. When we moved into the new house, a bunch of the bathroom drains were really slow moving. The kitchen also had some issues but I’ll save that story for another time. I purchased this electric drain auger after much frustration with my traditional drain auger and dealing with stubborn clogs I couldn’t remove with the shop vac. I can’t believe how impressed I’ve been with this tool. Anytime you buy a tool from an unknown (to me) brand, you always take a risk, but I am so happy with this purchase. It was pretty affordable and well worth the purchase price. It’s handled everything I’ve thrown at it thus far with incredible ease. Highly recommend.

10.) Bora Tool Centipede

Bora Centipede – $122

This is one of the more recent tools I purchased and it has really come in handy after our move. I don’t have a dedicated shop space setup yet so the versatility of the centipede has been a space and time saver. I can use it as a portable workbench, or as a spot to hold sheet goods while I build other cabinets and benches. It collapses small and tucks away so it’s super convenient. Even after I have the new shop completed, this will get regular use in my shop because it’s so versatile and useful.

So that’s it for this list! I hope you guys enjoyed checking out some of my favorites and I hope it helps you if you’re considering some new tools throughout 2022. I’d highly recommend adding these to your wishlists for the future. As I mentioned, this is an every evolving list so I’ll do my best to share some more of my favorites as I come across them.

If you like this list, here is previous list of recommendations as well as some recent projects I’ve done utilizing some of the tools I mentioned above.

My Top 10 Tools of 2020 (So Far)!

10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro!

Tackling a tile installation job in your home is one of those projects many homeowners steer clear of. While installing tile on your own can be a little tricky, once you’ve done it a few times, have the right tools, and a little bit of confidence, it’s a great skillset you can add to your arsenal. That’s why this week I’ve teamed up with Kobalt Tools to share 10 DIY Tiling Tips to Tile Like a Pro! Follow along with all my tips in the video above or feel free to scroll through them all down below!

For more tips from a Tile Professional, check out my interview with Professional Tile Setter, Adam Esparza of Ale Tile Co. 

This project contains a paid product integration from Kobalt Tools. All opinions herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

1.) Get Yourself the Right Tools

To get a quality installation with your tile, you’ll need some basic tools to get started. I recommend that you have the following tools on hand:

• A hammer
• A pencil
• A level
• A Utility Knife
• A drill and paddle mixer for mixing mortar
• Various notched trowels (1/4″, 5/32″, 3/16″ depending on your application
• A rubber grout float and sponge
• Some knee pads
• A clean bucket
• A tile cutter. (A wet tile saw or tile score and snap tool is really useful especially if you’re doing a larger tile project. However, if you can’t find or rent one, you can also use an angle grinder with a diamond cutoff blade, OR a small saw with a diamond blade like this one with a diamond cutoff blade.)

Thanks to Kobalt Tools for sending over many of the tools you see in this video for to me to put to the test.

2.) Make sure your Subfloor is Flat and Level

When doing a tile floor project you’ll want to make sure your floor is flat and level. You can use either a cement backer board, or what is called a dry pack mortar bed to set your tile on. A backer board application is more DIY friendly but creating your own mortar bed allows you to level uneven surfaces. You can also use a self leveling product to adjust your subfloor first and then apply a backer board or other membrane to tile over. You never want to tile directly over wood as wood expands and contracts in moisture and can cause your tile and grout to crack. 

3.)  Know the difference between mastic and Thin Set Mortar and when to use each

There are 2 main categories of adhesive to choose from when installing tile. 

1.) Mastic:

Commonly sold in stores as “Tile Adhesive”. Mastic is a pre-mixed glue like product and should only be used in primarily dry applications like kitchen backsplashes. Mastic is stickier than mortar so it’s good for vertical wall applications that aren’t exposed to regular moisture. When installing a backsplash with mastic I use a 3/16″ or 5/32” notched trowel to apply mastic to the wall in small working areas, and then press the tile in place on the wall with a grout float to make sure it seats properly. The notches in the trowel help secure the tile and make sure you aren’t over applying too much mastic which will squeeze out and cause problems especially if you’re using small mosaic tiles like these. 

2.)Thin-Set Mortar

Thin-set on the other hand can be used in any application and is my primary method for tile installation. Thin set is sold in bags or boxes and is mixed with water to create a peanut butter like paste. I use thinset for all flooring applications, shower and bath enclosures, and any large format tile installs. Keep your notches running in one direction and make sure that your notches are full. 

4.) Use Layout Lines

In older homes, sometimes the rooms aren’t square and it can be difficult to determine how the tile will look when installed. When installing square or rectangular tiles, I like to always reference the longest wall in the room and draw a line down the middle of the room. I usually add at least 1 perpendicular line as well. I reference these lines as I’m installing the tile to make sure the courses are staying straight to the room. Depending how square or out of square the room is, you can also use the Pathagoreon theorem or 3-4-5 rule to create square lines in the room. 

5.) Setting Your First Course Is Most Important

Installing the first course of tile is the most important to make sure you have a quality install. You can roughly layout tiles in the room to make sure you won’t have sliver cuts at the end as well. I typically like to shift the tile layout so that I have roughly a ½ piece of tile at each wall. Laying out your tile setup in something like Sketchup can also help you determine how to best set your first course. I always like to hide cuts as much as possible outside of the primary eye-line so keeping them along the edge of the room is best in my opinion.  

6.) Know When to Back Butter

A large format tile is a tile that is larger than 12″ x 12″. When installing a large format tile like this it’s important to do a technique called back buttering. Back buttering involves adding a thin coat of thinset to the backside of your tile using the flat side of the trowel. Pressing the tile down into the notches of the mortar on the floor or wall will create a full seat for the tile and not allow for air gaps to be created underneath. Air gaps under the tile can lead to cracks or breaks in the tile down the road if something is dropped in that area. In MOST small tile applications like subway tiles, you likely don’t need to back butter the tiles. 

7.) Trim your Door Casing!

You can almost always tell a professional tile job from a DIY tile job in a few ways. The most common DIY mistake I see is how people handle cuts around door jambs/frames. Many times people elect to cut around the door casing which can look okay if you do it really well BUT you’ve also now encased the door casing in so if you ever want to change it you’ll have to cut it off at the tile. The proper way is to use a tool like an oscillating tool to cut off the casing so you can slide the tile underneath it. It gives you a clean finish and also will allow you to change the casing easily later on if desired. Another mistake I see often is uneven tiles which leads me to my next point.

8.)  Use Tile Leveling Spacers to Minimize Lippage

Tiling is a bit of an imperfect science. There are a lot of variables to getting it to look right. Small changes in the amount of mortar, a floor that isn’t flat, or a random loose stone in your mortar can all affect how the tile sets. I recommend using tile leveling spacers to minimize lippage as much as possible. Lippage occurs when one tile is proud of the other tile which can easily be seen with the eye or felt under foot. Leveling spacers help even out any imperfections in your installation. 

9.) Use an Angle Grinder To Create Radiused or Plunge Cuts

Cutting radius cuts or cuts in the middle of a tile for something like a receptacle can be a little tricky. I like to use an angle grinder with a diamond cutoff wheel to make those cuts. Another option for small cuts are edges of tile is to score lines in the tile and use tile nippers to follow the contours. 

10.) Choose the Right Grout

Choosing the Right Grout is as important as choosing the right tile. When choosing a grout there are 3 typical types to choose from. 

#1.) Sanded Grout

Sanded grout is a grout that contains larger aggregate sand that is used for larger spacing applications greater than ⅛”. So if you are using a ¼” tile spacer in your project you’ll want to make sure you choose a sanded grout for your application. 

#2.) Non-sanded grout

Non-sanded on the other hand is a finer grout and is used for tile applications where the spacing between tiles is < ⅛”. With either sanded or non-sanded grout, you want to make sure you seal the grout with a grout sealant to keep out dirt and grime. 

#3.) Epoxy Grout

Unlike Sanded and Non-Sanded Grout which are cement based products, epoxy grout is epoxy based which makes it very durable, waterproof, and resistant to cracks and staining.  However, the application process is more challenging, is higher cost, and has a more plastic like appearance. 

My Grouting Tips:

In most flooring applications, I always like to choose a grout that is as close to the floor tile as possible to minimize the discrepancies that can be created from dirt and grime build up but that’s just my personal preference.

To install sanded/non-sanded grout, you mix it like you would mortar but slightly more watery and then spread it across the tile application with a rubber float. After it hazes over for about 30 minutes, use a sponge to wipe off any excess. (I personally like to use a disposable head mop to save my back and knees as much as possible.)

So that’s it for my 10 Tiling Tips! I hope they’re helpful as you tackle your next (or first) DIY Tile project. If you liked this content, here are some more tips/tricks you might enjoy!

Tile Like a Pro | Tips from an Old World Craftsman

10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro!

Good luck and thanks for following!

I’ll admit it, I’m a bit of an addict for new tools! I’m constantly buying tools just to test them out or because they seem like a cool product or can save me time. I’m also fortunate to do this as a business and I occasionally get some sent to me for review pro bono! (I LOVE when this happens). With that said, I’m always discovering new *to me* tools that I think are awesome and that quickly become some of my “go-to” tools for a job.

I thought I would put together a list of tools I’ve gotten to use a lot in 2020 that I absolutely love in case you’re looking for some tools for yourself or the tool lover in your life this fall. This list is ever changing, but so far in 2020, these tools have my vote for favorites I’ve used this year!

Here’s the full list of tools via my Amazon storefront if you’d like to purchase any of them. You don’t pay any extra and it helps support the Mrfixitdiy brand.

1.) Collins Tool Co. Miter Spring Clamps

Collings Tool Miter Spring Clamps – <$50

These things are freaking excellent! Whether you’re doing interior trim work around the house or woodworking in the shop, these tools have become a staple for me anytime I’m doing any type of miter work. These are perfect for baseboards, window and door casings, hobby woodworking projects, you name it! If you’re looking to get something for yourself or the woodworker in your life under $50 then these are a no brainer in my opinion. You’ll find endless uses for them once you have them in your toolbox.

2.) Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18v Cordless Router

Milwaukee FUEL 18v Cordless Router – $200+

Of all the cordless lineups out there, the M18 Fuel lineup is by far my favorite (and I’m not paid to say that). The tremendous amount of tools that have been released that all run on the same battery platform is absolutely awesome in my opinion. Rather than extra chargers and different batteries each time you buy a new tool, you can buy the tool only if you already have other tools in the FUEL lineup. The router is the latest tool I’ve purchased to add to my arsenal of FUEL tools and it is A BEAST. It does everything it’s corded alternative did for me and the portability and ease of use makes it my go to anytime I need a router now. This is a must have for anyone that finds themselves working on the go or just wants a strong, reliable router for woodworking, trim, etc.

3.) Micro-Jig MATCHFIT Dovetail Clamps

Micro-Jig MATCHFIT Dovetail Clamps – $30

Every woodworker knows you can never have too many clamps. No matter how many you own, your newest project seems to involve every clamp you own. What’s awesome about these is you can create your own woodworking jigs and clamp rigs however and whenever you need them using any 14° dovetail router bit. You don’t need to spend a bunch of money on T-track or something to create a jig to hold your workpiece. These clamps slide into any dovetail channel and are super strong and easy to use. Their uses are almost limitless and having a versatile tool like them is really useful especially if you have a smaller workshop.

4.) Paslode Cordless XP 30° Framing Nailer

Paslode Cordless 30° Framing Nailer – $350+

Alright so this one I’ve had for several years now BUT I’ve continued to use it a lot this year and it continues to be one of my favorite all-time tool purchases. This thing just performs! Is it pricey? Absolutely. (Not that different than buying a compressor, hose, and a pneumatic gun though) It’s more than paid for itself in the amount of time it has saved me from lugging around and using an air compressor. It keeps the job site cleaner and safer (no tripping on hoses). The gas canisters last a really long time as does the battery. I honestly have zero complaints about this tool and I’m so glad I have it!  I also use it for cement composite siding projects. I’d highly recommend this tool for any framing or remodel projects you’re doing.

5.) WEN Variable Speed Drywall Sander

WEN Variable Speed Drywall Sander – $120

It’s no secret that I HATE drywall. I’ve been pretty vocal about how much I despise taping, mudding, and sanding drywall. Well that hasn’t really changed much, BUT I did invest in a drywall sander this year and it’s made keeping the annoying drywall dust under control MUCH easier. I always assumed a drywall sander was really expensive, but I found this WEN drywall sander very affordable and it was such a big help when I was working on the drywall for my office remodel this year. It’s one of those tools that I’m not sure how I’ve gone without. Needless to say, I won’t be doing drywall without it ever again!

6.) Rolgear 15 in 1 SILENT Ratchet Screwdriver

Rolgear 15 in 1 SILENT Ratchet Screwdriver – $30

A screwdriver is just a screwdriver, right? Well yeah, except for when it’s this one. I’ve actually had a set of these for a few years, but I started using this screwdriver all the time on my projects this year. With 15 interchangeable bits for every type of screw, and a super easy adjustment for ratcheting tight or loose, this screwdriver is awesome. And it’s completely silent so no ratchet clicking noise. It’s super comfortable in the hand, well balanced, and ergonomic. This tool is perfect for all sorts of applications but I use it a lot for electrical and mechanical maintenance projects around the house. If you’re looking for a “one size fits all” multi-purpose screwdriver I encourage you to check this one out.

7.) Kreg Crown Pro – Crown Molding Cutting Tool

Kreg Crown Pro – Crown Molding Cutting Tool – $30

This one is a bit of a specialty item. Do you need it? Well no, probably not if you’re not doing a bunch of crown molding. But if you have at least one room of crown molding to do like I did this year, it’s worth the investment. Finding the spring angle and setting up a jig for cutting crown molding on your miter saw can be a time suck and be a pain in the butt. This jig takes out all the guesswork and makes it a quick and easy setup. For $30, it’s well worth it simply to save yourself a headache. Crown molding takes some time to get used to and can be challenging so anything that helps simplify the process is worth it in my book!

8.) Aquor Water Systems House Hydrant

Aquor Water Systems House Hydrant – $80+

Ok so maybe this is more of a product than a tool, I don’t know. Regardless, I installed one of these this year as a how-to project video and I love it! It’s a slick modern upgrade to the traditional hose bib. What’s cool about it is that it’s self draining and the majority of the unit is actually in the wall. If you live in a cold climate, there’s no risk of freezing and breaking in the winter months, and no need to do a season ending water line drain before the frost. If you’re looking to upgrade your hose bibs around the house, I’d highly recommend checking out the House Hydrant.

9.) SENSE Home Energy Monitor

SENSE Home Energy Monitor – $299

This is another one of those “tools” that’s a little different but has been amazing for me in 2020. I installed this monitor on my home about a year ago and it has helped me prioritize money/energy saving projects on the house over the past year. For example, my old fridge was a complete energy suck and was costing a lot of money to run! It also helped me realize exactly how much money I was putting towards HVAC and it made me prioritize re-doing the insulation in my attic before the summer heat this year which has made a noticeable difference in my energy bills. The app interface is easy to use and learns your home over time to help identify each item and how much power they draw. I highly recommend it.

10.) Gerber Center-Drive Multi-Tool

Gerber Center-Drive Multi-Tool – $125

I was never much for a multi-tool as an everyday carry tool until this year. I got my hands on the Center-Drive from Gerber and I immediately fell in love with it. It has a lot of the features people love about a multi-tool in a small package and also has a built in screwdriver with a variety of interchangeable bits. It’s awesome to know that you have a tool in your pocket that can tackle a huge array of jobs.The only thing it’s missing in my opinion is a pocket clip!

So that’s it for this list! I hope you guys enjoyed checking out some of my favorites and I hope it helps you if you’re considering some new tools this year. As I mentioned, this is an every evolving list so I’ll do my best to share some more of my favorites as I come across them.

Here are some recent projects I’ve done utilizing some of the tools I mentioned above.

How to Monitor Your Home’s Energy Usage

How to Upgrade to a Modern Water Spigot

In this DIY tool restoration project I’ll show you how to restore old hand planes as I take some of my Grandfather’s old hand planes and give them a new life in my workshop.

My Mom came out to visit a few months back and she brought me a couple old hand planes that belonged to my grandfather (A Stanley #78 and a Stanley #60 1/2). My grandfather was a carpenter, but he passed away long before I got really interested in woodworking. I don’t do a ton of hand tool work, but I still felt the desire to restore them and give them new life. I’ve become accustom to using hand tools a bit more over the last couple years so I’m excited to restore them and incorporate them in some of my future projects. Watch the video above to follow along to see how I did it.

Disclosure: This post contains a paid product placement by The WD40 Company. All views and opinions are my own. 

Disassembling the Planes

The hand planes have been sitting in my uncle’s toolbox for years, and they’re covered with rust, grime, and the general wear and tear of all those years in the woodshop. I started by taking them apart. Some areas were in worse shape than others a couple of the knobs and screws were a little lodged in with rust, so I used some WD40 Specialist Rust Release Penetrant Spray to loosen them.

In particular, the brass adjustment wheel on the front of the 60 1/2 was pretty seized up. I didn’t want to damage it, so I took an old work glove that was ready to be thrown away and cut a couple of the fingers off. Then I slipped those over the pliers to protect the brass while I broke it loose. This protected the knob, and in addition to the spray worked really wheel to loosening the wheel.

Cleaning & Honing

Next, I took all the loose parts and set them in a plastic tub and poured some WD40 Specialist Rust Remover Soak for a couple hours. This helped loosen the surface rust on the tools. Then I pulled each piece and scrubbed them down with a wire brush and some 000 steel wool. The parts were already looking really good.

With the rust removed, it was time to hone the plane bodies. The soles of the planes needed to be flattened out, so I took a Sharpie and made some reference lines across the soles of each plane. Then, I used some spray adhesive to secure three separate sandpapers to a microflat stone I have (120, 220, 320 grit) You could use any flat surface to do this, I just happen to have a microflat stone that was left at my house when I moved in. So I worked the plane bodies across the various grits until I was able to flatten them. The sharpie lines give you reference for your progress.

Once the bodies were honed, I considered spray painting them. But after speaking to a friend about it, he said it took my grandfather like 30 years to get them that way. So I decided that I liked the character that the used look gave them and left them as is. I care about the function of the tool, not necessarily if it looks brand new.

Sharpening the Irons

Luckily the irons were in pretty decent shape, save for a couple chips here and there. I admit, I’m no expert on sharpening blades. So I had to do a lot of research and I found some great tutorials by the likes of Paul Sellers and Ron Hock (“The Perfect Edge”) which really helped me. I went to Rockler and picked up a few Japanese combination water stones. I also bought a honing guide and went to town sharpening the irons. Starting on the low side of the first stone (250 grit) I worked to take off the chips. Then I worked my way up to the 6000 grit stone. I used the Ron Hock ruler trick to flatten the backs of the irons. To finish off the sharpening, I ran the irons against a piece of leather to remove the final burr.

I managed to get them in really good shape and nice and sharp. This is actually my first time sharpening irons so I’m confident if I can do it, so can you.

Reassembly & Finished Planes!

I put them back together with a screwdriver and messed around setting the blade depths on the cutting irons.

Then I tested them out on a scrap piece of cherry, and I’m happy to report that they work great! It’s pretty cool to have my grandfather’s tools as a part of my shop. I’m still trying to track down a few little missing parts to round out the planes but they work as is for now. I look forward to incorporating them in future projects!

If you liked this project, check out some of the other cool stuff I’ve worked on!

Restoring an Old Wheelbarrow

Wooden Banksy Wall Art

And of course, thank you for checking out this tutorial. I hope to see you guys next time!

DIY home electrical work is one of those things many homeowners shy away from and it can be a little bit dangerous if you don’t have a little bit of knowledge, but I’m here to show you the 5 tools I think every homeowner should own that can tackle many common electrical issues around the home and save you from making expensive calls to an electrician. If you’re new to home electrical projects, don’t worry, I’ve got you covered with some basic tutorials here.

Before I get started I just want to say that any time you’re working on any electrical project in your home. make sure to turn the power off at the breaker to the area or room you’re working in to make sure that you are working safely and that you or someone else will not get hurt.

So with that said, let’s dive into our list.

#5.) Screwdrivers (flat & phillips)

I’m sure most homeowners already have at least A screwdriver lying around the house, and if not, you should definitely get yourself a set. For electrical projects, you’ll need at least a screwdriver with an interchangeable tip, or both a Phillips head and flat head. Many old receptacles have strictly flat head screws; while newer fixtures typically have Phillips or a combination. Having both types on hand ensures that you’re prepared for any situation.

#4.) Razor Blade and Electrical Tape

I know they’re technically two tools but I hardly classify tape as a tool by itself so I figured I’d lump it together with another smaller tool. These two tools are a constant when working on any electrical project. A razor blade is great for cutting the casing on modern Romex wiring and electrical tape is good for a few reasons. #1) I like to use it to wrap terminal heads to protect from a shock in the event someone tries to pull out a receptacle with the power on. #2) It can also be used to indicate a hot wire in an instance where the wire’s coloring may indicate otherwise.

#3.) Receptacle Circuit Tester

This plug in tool is an easy way to diagnose wiring mistakes when it comes to receptacles. The lights on the tool show you if an error is present and tell you what the problem is so you can fix it. It also tells you when a receptacle is wired correctly.

#2.) Wire Strippers

These are cheap and very handy tools to have on hand for any DIY wiring project. They have cutouts for the various gauge wiring you’re working with. Most residential wiring is either 12 gauge or 14 gauge wiring. I use a pair of these on ever single electrical project I tackle so they’re essential to have in your tool pouch.

#1.) Voltage Detector

The #1 tool on my list is both a safety tool and a diagnostic tool and is the 1^st tool I reach for in any electrical project and that is a Voltage detector. This little pen-like tool is a must have for any homeowner because it alerts you when any voltage is present. After I turn the power off at the breaker before I start a project, I always follow that up by verifying that the power is off with this tool. Any voltage that is present will make the tool light up and beep so you know if the power is in fact off.

Also, this tool can be really helpful for diagnosing old or mislabeled wiring as you can move it around to find out which wire is hot and which is neutral. The power needs to be on at the breaker for this to work so if you’re troubleshooting wiring, be extra careful.

So that’s it for this Top 5 DIY list. You can grab all these tools for less than $100 which is less than you’d pay an electrician to come out for a single visit and with them you can tackle a tremendous amount of household electrical issues.

If you liked this content, check out more like it here:

Top 5 DIY Plumbing Tools

How to Increase the Value of Your Home

Plumbing is one of the things most homeowners dread, but I’m here to show you the 5 DIY plumbing tools every homeowner should own that can tackle the majority of household plumbing issues and save you from making expensive calls to a plumber.

Learning to tackle your own plumbing jobs around the house can add up to hundreds or even thousands of dollars over the life of your home and don’t worry. I’ve got your back with plenty of DIY plumbing projects to get you started.

#5.) Water Pressure Testing gauge

This tool costs around $10 and isn’t something you’ll use all the time but it’s definitely worth having in your arsenal and here’s why. If you have public water, the pressure that the town/city sends to your home is substantially higher than the pressure the valves and fixtures in your home are rated for. Your house/apartment has something like this which is a pressure regulator valve that converts the pressure the city sends to your house to levels that are safe for your valves and fixtures (usually <60 psi). Using a water pressure gauge can help you dial in your water pressure to suitable levels for your home and also help diagnose a problem like if your regulator fails like mine did last year. If that happens, the water pressure in your house spikes and can cause problems with your fixtures and create a dangerous situation with your water tank if the T&P valve is not working properly. Bottom line is, having this tool around and checking your water pressure periodically is a good way to stay on top of problems before they start.

#4) Blowtorch

Since the advent of PEX, DIY plumbing has gotten significantly easier, but if you watch some of my other videos you know I still like to use copper in moderation. Using copper requires soldering joints together and you can’t do that without a torch. Even if you aren’t comfortable or interested in soldering your own copper joints together, a blowtorch plumbing kit ($35) is still a useful tool especially if you live in an older home with galvanized piping. These pipes are threaded together and over time they can be extremely difficult to get apart.  Applying heat to them with a blowtorch can help loosen them but be careful not to breathe in the fumes that come off them as it can be dangerous. They’re also helpful for loosening stuck cleanout caps which brings me to my next tool.

#3.) Pipe Wrench

A pipe wrench ($27) is a must have if you live in an older home. There’s no way you’re getting old galvanized pipes apart without a pipe wrench and even with a pipe wrench it can be a pain in the ass. Also, the drain cleanout caps around your home are likely larger than any typical wrench you’d have lying around your home. Having a pipe wrench handy means you can easily take off a cleanout cap to access otherwise difficult clogs.

#2.) Shop Vac

A shop vac is one of my absolute go-to tools when it comes to DIY plumbing. Not only is a shop vac great for cleaning up water spills and messes from overflows, but it can also be used to clear most clogs in sink and shower drains. See the video above to see how it’s done. A shop vac is a cheaper and much more effective alternative to using costly (and often times useless) drain cleaning chemicals.

1.) Channel Locks/Adjustable Pliers

A pair of channel locks ($15) is THE tool I reach for and use in every single DIY plumbing project that I tackle whether it’s loosening up slip joints on trap assemblies, or installing shut off valves. Without a pair of these you’re pretty much not going to be able to tackle any plumbing projects which is why I’d consider them the most valuable tool in my tool pouch when it comes to plumbing.

You can grab all these tools for less than $100 which is less than you’d pay a plumber to come out for a single visit and with them you can tackle probably 90% of household plumbing issues.

Thank you guys so much for checking out this content. If you enjoyed it, consider checking out some of my other DIY Plumbing Projects.

How to Replace a Water Shut Off Valve

How to Fix a Garbage Disposal

This week the team at STIHL challenged me to see how much work I could get done on a single charge with their new STIHL battery powered tools. Their Lightning Battery System lineup of tools was just released so I got a chance to put them to the test! Check out the video above to see the tools in action and for my full review!

To find a Stihl dealer near you click here.

If you liked this content, check out more of my tool reviews:

Making Kitchen Utensils with the Shaper Origin

My Table Saw Accident & How to Avoid Your Own

Well…as much as I’ve always dreaded it and hoped it wouldn’t happen, I am a table saw accident statistic. A few weeks ago I managed to make some careless mistakes while operating my table saw that lead to my hand making contact with the blade. I am extremely lucky and am fortunate that I didn’t lose any fingers; however my fingers did get chewed up pretty badly leading to a bunch of stitches across 3 fingers on my right hand and I’m going to be out of commission for at least a month or more. I had ordered a SawStop Table Saw 3 Days before the accident happened and was waiting for the shipment to arrive. Talk about timing! Anyway, it might sound odd to take table saw safety advice from someone who has had an accident with a table saw, but I can assure you that I have been around this tool for close to 20 years and have always had a fearful respect for the table saw and I never considered myself someone who didn’t operate the saw safely so if it can happen to me, it can happen to anyone. My goal with this video is to show you exactly what happened in my accident, how & why it happened, how I could’ve avoided it and hopefully give you a few tips on how you can avoid a similar situation. Check out the video to see exactly what happened. 

WARNING: I AM INCLUDING SOME GRAPHIC IMAGES OF MY ACCIDENT BELOW. IF YOU DO NOT WISH TO SEE THE DAMAGE CAUSED BY THE ACCIDENT, PLEASE DO NOT CONTINUE READING AND INSTEAD JUST WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE THAT OUTLINES HOW AND WHY THE ACCIDENT OCCURRED.

Again, I was extremely lucky that the damage was not worse, and many people who have had table saw accidents have lost fingers or done even more significant damage so I feel very fortunate.

MY ACCIDENT

So here’s what happened in my accident. I was ripping a drawer front down to it’s final size to install in my custom vanity build and the piece got behind the blade resulting in the piece getting kicked back at me, striking me in my side and my hand being sent into the blade. I’m not sure if my hand went into the blade as a reaction to being hit with the piece or if the kickback of the piece itself sent my hand into the blade, but I made 3 critical mistakes that led to the accident and here is the result of the accident. 

As you can see I could have easily lost some or all of 3 of my fingers. I had X-Rays done and initially they thought there was no sign of bone damage so I was lucky in

but after I mentioned I couldn’t bend the finger they found I had a small fracture in the knuckle on the ring finger. Initial signs were good as far as tendon damage and I had movement and feeling in my fingers. I also had significant bruising on my side from the impact.

The ER Doctor gave me 13 stitches across the 3 fingers (3 in the ring finger, 8 in the middle, and 2 in the index). Some areas were unable to be stitched because the skin around it was too macerated to stitch so they said that would need to heal subdermally.

They gave me a clam shell splint to wear over the stitched fingers that I wore for a little over a week before the stitches were removed.

So as I keep saying, I was SUPER LUCKY! I feel so fortunate that I didn’t lose the fingers. I don’t know what my life would be like moving forward if that happened and I hate to think about that possibility. I never wanted to make a video like this but now that it’s happened to me, I sincerely hope it never happens to anyone else.

HOW TO AVOID YOUR OWN ACCIDENT

Here are a few tips I suggest to try an avoid an accident.

In addition to these tips, Woodcraft has an extensive list of safety tips which you can check out here.

At the end of the day, it comes down to developing good saw habits and never letting them slip! Always respect the tool and make sure your mind is focused on the task at hand while working with the saw. It’s too dangerous a tool to not give it your complete attention anytime you’re using it. If you can afford a SawStop (I know how hard it is to save for one, trust me!) I’d suggest you purchase one. Hopefully someday in the near future every manufacturer will be forced to include a similar technology but until that time, SawStop is the best option.

I hope this post and video are helpful to you in some way and at least get you thinking about the possibility of trying to improve your saw habits so that this type of accident never happens to you! Thank you guys so much for checking it out and for the outpouring of support across social media. It means a lot to me and I really appreciate it.

Cut safe!