In this DIY project tutorial I’ll walk you through how I installed the tile floor in my jack & jill bathroom and show you all the considerations and planning that needs to be done in order to do a DIY tile floor install. This project will take you a few days so make sure to set aside a weekend or a few days where you can afford to not use the bathroom you’re working on. 

Disclosure: This post contains a paid product placement by The WD40 Company. All views and opinions are my own. 

Preparing the Floor

To get started, first I had to remove the existing floor and prepare it for the new tile floor. This bathroom happened to have an old pink tile floor with a thick mortar bed under it so removing it was a bit of a challenge. I used a combination of a sledgehammer, a hammer drill, and a shovel to pry it up. Once I had the old tile removed, I had to do a little bit of structural work to repair some subfloor damage due to water and termites (cutting out old, rotten areas and replacing with new wood). 

Once the subfloor was repaired, I could get to work on preparing for the new tile. In this case, I installed a ½” cement backer board on top of the subfloor. Make sure your floor is level when preparing your substrate. If it’s not level, consider floating a mortar bed to make it level. There are a lot of options out there to use as a substrate under the tile including cement backer board like I used, floating a mortar bed like the previous floor, or using a newer product like Kerdi Waterproofing membrane. If you plan to add radiant heating in your new flooring, that may affect which type of substrate you choose to use. In this case, I just went with the simple backer board.

Installing the backer board requires cutting the pieces to fit your space, and then attaching it to the subfloor with cement board screws. Once installed, I used some mesh tape and thin set mortar to cover all the seams and create a water resistant surface.

From there I chose to cover the whole floor in a product called Redgard. Redgard is a liquid waterproofing membrane. I had used it for the shower walls and had leftover so I chose to use it on the floor as an added waterproofing barrier.

Tile Layout and Installation

Next I was ready for tile. In my case I chose a hexagonal porcelain tile (I said ceramic in the video) and because of that, I wanted to experiment with the layout to minimize cuts and waste. I find using software like Google Sketchup allows you to input the dimensions of your space to determine the best layout before installing.

To install the tile, I’m mixing up some thinset mortar and applying it to the floor with a notched trowel. The rule of thumb is to use thinset mortar as your tile adhesive in wet areas. For drier areas like a kitchen backsplash, you can use tile adhesive or mastic.

Because this is a larger tile, I’m using a ¼” trowel. Always start away from your access door and work your way out of the room. I notch a work area in the mortar and then use a technique called “back buttering” on each tile before setting them in place. Back buttering involves using a small trowel to apply mortar to the backside of the tile which when pressed into place, creates a solid seal of mortar to secure the tile in place.

For tile spacers, I chose to use these tile alignment spacers. These tiles have 6 sides so this type of spacer helps minimize lippage, which is where one tile is higher than the next. Because of the hexagon shape, I had to use a LOT of them.

I worked my way through the room and when I got to the edges, I used my wet saw to cut the tiles to the necessary size. When it comes to the toilet flange and the curved tub surround, I used a pair of tile nippers to cut a radius in the tiles so that the cut was as clean and close to the curved surfaces as possible.

Once I had worked my way through the entire room, I let the mortar set for 24 hours before coming back in and removing the clips and breaking off the protruding spacers.

Adding Grout

And finally, I’m ready for grout. In this case I’m using a Non-sanded grout because my grout lines are ⅛”. If your grout lines are larger than that you should use Sanded grout. Grout comes in a wide array of colors but I chose to use a grey similar to the floor. I used a rubber grout float to spread it across the floor making sure all the lines were filled and then used a wet sponge to wipe off the excess once it had hazed over.

Lastly, I applied several coats of grout sealant on the floor to create a watertight seal and prevent it from getting dirty. Grout is a porous substance so if you don’t seal it, it can absorb moisture and dirt.

Cleaning and Storing Your Tools

Once you’re finished with your tools, I always recommend you wipe them down with a coat of WD-40. If you don’t do this, your trowels can oxidize as they sit around so next time you go to use them you’ll have to deal with scrubbing off the rust.

If you forgot to clean them off before the mortar has hardened, don’t worry! You can still clean them. Use some WD-40 Trigger Pro to spray on the mortar, and then tap it with a hammer. Then using another trowel or painter’s tool to scrape off the mortar. Then wipe them down with WD40 afterwards.

If you have rusty trowels sitting around, I recommend soaking them in WD-40 Specialist Rust Remover Soak for a while.

Spend the time to keep them in good working order and they’ll last you for many more jobs to come.  

Well that’s it for this project, I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it gave you the confidence to tackle your own DIY bathroom tile project. If you did enjoy this project, here are some others you may enjoy. 

Tile Like a Pro | Tips from an Old World Craftsman

How to Install Hardwood Floors

“I think subway tiles are always a classic hit that will never go out of style.”

What things should homeowners consider when installing new tile in their home?

I think homeowners should consider whether they’re going to want an installation that is going to last a long time or if they’re looking to flip the house. There are always ways to make the cost cheaper when purchasing materials. Most of the time my clients already have an idea of what they want, I usually just direct them where to get it.

You obviously do some high dollar tile design, what are a few tips you’d give the average homeowner who maybe doesn’t have a lot in their budget but wants to up their tile game?

When on a budget, simplicity is key. You could go out and get basic white tile and do something classic with them. I think subway tiles are always a classic look that will never go out of style.

Are there any common mistakes you see homeowners committing when it comes to DIY tile installs? Any absolute “Don’t Do’s” when it comes to tile?

There are a lot of “don’t do’s“ but the biggest would have to be in shower areas that can have water damage. Make sure you do your homework and have good waterproofing or you risk causing serious damage and costing yourself A LOT of extra money.

Can you explain the difference between using thin set mortar vs mastics? Is there a reason to use one over the other?

Mastic (tile adhesives) is designed for areas such as backsplashes where there isn’t a lot of water. In high water contact areas (like a shower/bath) you normally want to use a modified thin set.

“Needless to say if you were to go to Europe and see tile installation that was installed centuries ago it’s all installed on mortar. That’s why I brand myself as an old world craftsman.”

I notice you use mortar to float most of your applications rather than using cement backer board. Can you explain why and what your basic process is for floating?

When floating with mortar, you have the advantage of making an area that isn’t square and plum, square and plum. Also the waterproofing is behind The mud bed as opposed to being right behind the thin set. What that means is if you have to remove a Tile you are not affecting the waterproofing but just hitting at cement. I could go on and on about the benefits of a mortar bed but needless to say if you were to go to Europe and see tile installation that was installed centuries ago it’s all installed on mortar. That’s why I brand myself as an old world craftsman.

“There is nothing more satisfying than to be able to install what you imagined and it coming out great. It’s so satisfying.”

What’s your favorite part of your tile projects (designing, installation, etc.)? Why?

I think at this point Design is very fun for me. Getting to design a bathroom or kitchen backsplash is so enjoyable for me. But there is nothing more satisfying than to be able to install what you imagined and it coming out great. It’s so satisfying.

Meet the Pro:

Adam Esparza is a second generation tile contractor that has over 15 years experience and takes great pride in the art and customization of his trade. As a teenager he was his Uncle’s apprentice and he and his Dad installed the “old world” way using mortar. Adam started ALE Tile Co. in 2013 after realizing the corporate world was not for him. He says that he feels he “was meant to be a self-employed artist.”

ALE Tile Co. specializes in custom tile work in the greater Orange County, CA area. Using old world techniques paired with modern technology, he works hard to ensure your finished product is not only exactly what you’re looking for, but one that will stand the test of time. He works with you to individualize and design each project & does it the right way so you can feel confident knowing you’ve gotten the quality of work you’re looking for.

For more Tiling tips from Adam, listen to our full podcast episode: How to Tile Like a Pro

Follow ALE Tile Co. on Instagram @aletile

All images in this post are attributable and subject to copyright by ALE Tile Co. and are used with permission.

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