Today, we’re tackling the ins and outs of installing a GFCI outlet. Why? Because my buddy’s bathroom had zero power, and I needed to install a fancy bidet. No juice, no spritz – so let’s fix that.

What’s a GFCI and Why Do You Need One?

GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. Fancy name, simple job: it shuts off power if it detects an imbalance in the electrical current, which could mean water and electricity are getting a little too friendly. That’s why GFCIs are required in bathrooms, kitchens, and other moisture-prone areas.

Step 1: Find a Power Source

Since running a whole new circuit from the panel isn’t an easy task (unless you love breaking through walls like the Kool-Aid Man), we’re looking for an existing power source. In this case, I had two options:

1. Tap into the light switches inside the bathroom.
2. Use the power from a closet light switch on the other side of the wall.

I chose the closet switch because I felt like it kept things cleaner.

Step 2: Cutting and Fishing the Wire

First, I popped off the cover plate of the switch to check if I had the holy trinity of wiring: hot, neutral, and ground. Luckily, all three were present. Next, I punched out one of the knockouts in the switch box and fed a new wire down the wall to where I wanted my GFCI outlet. I used an old work box, which is great for retrofit jobs because it clamps onto the drywall instead of needing nails or screws. Just cut a hole in the wall, fish the wire through, and boom – progress.

However, life isn’t always that easy. I hit a fire block in the wall, which meant the wire wasn’t dropping as expected. Instead of tearing up the bathroom wall, I cut into the closet side, removed a small section of drywall, notched out the fire block, and fished the wire through. Minimal mess, maximum success.

Step 3: Wiring the GFCI Outlet

Now for the fun part – wiring up the outlet. GFCIs have three main screws:

• Brass/Black – Connects to the hot wire (black) *black touches brass, save your ass!
• Silver – Connects to the neutral wire (white)
• Green – Connects to the ground (bare copper wire)

Many GFCIs also have load terminals (covered with yellow tape), which allow you to protect additional outlets downstream. In this case, we’re just installing one GFCI, so we’re keeping it simple.

I stripped back the sheathing on the wires, connected black to brass, white to silver, and ground to green. After carefully stuffing the wires back into the box (without looking like I was forcing a sleeping bag back into its pouch), I secured the outlet and put on the cover plate.

Step 4: Connecting to the Power Source

Back at the switch, I turned off the power (because I prefer to be stimulated by coffee), removed the switch, and identified the line wire (the one bringing power from the panel). You can use either:

1. A voltage detector pen (quick but not always foolproof)
2. A voltmeter (more accurate & professional – look for ~120V between hot and neutral)

Once I confirmed the correct wires, I used a wire nut to pigtail a short black wire from the hot wire bundle and connected it back to the switch. This way, both the switch and the new GFCI outlet would get constant power.

Step 5: Testing and Buttoning Up

Before closing everything up, I flipped the breaker back on and tested the GFCI outlet. The light came on, the reset/test buttons worked, and the outlet was ready to supply power to my buddy’s high-tech bidet.

With everything confirmed, I buttoned up the switch, reinstalled the cover plates, and patched up the drywall in the closet. (Well, mostly – my buddy needed a paint sample, so I left a chunk out for him. DIY teamwork at its finest.)

Final Thoughts

Installing a GFCI might sound intimidating, but with a little patience (and maybe some drywall touch-ups), it’s totally doable. Plus, it adds an essential layer of electrical safety – no one wants a shocking experience on the toilet.

Now that the power is flowing, it’s time for the real mission: installing that bidet. Stay tuned for the next video where we bring the bathroom into the 21st century.

Happy wiring – and as always, don’t cross the streams (or wires).

DIY Fall Homeowner Checklist: 10 Things You Need to Be Doing Now!

1.) Change Your HVAC Filters

If I sound like a broken record about this it’s because it’s one of the simplest and beneficial things you can do for your heating & air conditioning system. So many potentially problematic issues can be avoiding if you just change your filters out regularly. (Every 3 months if you can) For more info on the benefits of changing your filters regularly, check out this previous article I wrote.

2.) Flush Your Hot Water Tank

I’m always surprised by how many homeowners I talk to that have never drained and flushed their hot water tank. Understandable I suppose, it’s not something you learn about in school. Flushing your water tank is really simple and it helps prolong the life of the tank. Over time, lime, calcium, and other minerals in your water can create deposits in the tank. (Especially if you have hard water) Periodically draining your water tank doesn’t allow those sediments to build up and cause problems with the heating elements that can shorten the life of the tank. The middle of the winter is the worst time to not have hot water in your home!

While you’re at it, it’s not a bad idea to turn the water temperature down on your tank a few degrees. Warm water in the winter months feels warmer as the air is cooler. Save yourself some energy costs by decreasing the temperature a little bit. You won’t notice and it’ll help your wallet.

3.) Clean Your Gutters

This is a big one! Cleaning gutters makes sure that your gutters are working properly and can drain the water away from your house as snow, rain, and ice freeze and thaw. If you don’t have clean gutters, water can turn to ice and build up in the gutters which can build into ice dams that can get under your roof and cause major water damage inside. Not only that but gutters that are frozen solid can get really heavy and separate from the house which can fall and cause major problems. A quick cleaning can save you a lot of potential headache.

4.) Seal Drafts

A drafty house in the winter is no fun. Finding leaky areas now and sealing them up not only keeps your house more comfortable in the winter months, but can also save you big money on your energy bill. Common culprits of drafts in your home are around electrical outlets, worn out weather stripping on doors, and older single pane windows. For more tips on how to seal up drafts, areas to target, and ways to save on energy costs this winter check out this article.

5.) Winterize Your Pipes

If you’re in an area that freezes, it’s time to winterize your pipes. Any outdoor plumbing like sprinkler systems need to be drained of any water that could potentially freeze and cause a rupture. Any hose bibs or piping that sticks up from the ground should be wrapped with insulating pipe tape or insulating foam and UV Proof tape.

Inside the house it’s also not a bad idea to wrap any water lines or piping that runs through the foundation, sills, or is in close proximity to exterior walls. If you commonly battle freezing pipes in the winter you’re likely familiar with trouble spots. Wrapping pipes helps insulate to prevent freezing.

Ruptured pipes can cause big problems both inside and out. Do yourself a favor and spend a few minutes now and potentially save yourself a huge headache.

If you want to save yourself a hassle of draining exterior hose bibs down the line, consider updating to a House Hydrant from Aquor Water Systems. 

6.) Clean & Fertilize Your Lawn

Homeowners commonly overlook their lawn when preparing their homes for winter, but a simple winterizing fertilizer can help your lawn rebound quickly come the spring. Do your best to rake any leaves and debris around the lawn and apply a winterizing fertilizer all around the lawn. There are a ton of great products out there, but a slow release, nitrogen rich fertilizer will continue to feed your lawn all winter long. Make sure your lawn and home are prepped for winter and ready for spring.

7.) Fix Chips and Cracks in Concrete

If you have a crack in your driveway, sidewalk, foundation, or walkway going into the winter months you can bet that it’ll be worse come the spring! Frost heave is a nightmare for concrete cracks. Water penetrates the crack, freezes and expands, and then lifts and separates the crack even more. If there’s a spot where this can happen around your home it 100% will happen. You’ll be left with a bigger mess to deal with in the spring. Look around your home and make the small fix now before it turns into a bigger fix later.

8.) Tune up Your Small Engines

Now is the time to do all the small engine repairs and maintenance on your snowblower, lawnmower, and make sure your snow shovels are in good shape. Doing basic maintenance on your small engine items like oil & filter changes, carburetor cleaning, and air filter changes can make sure those machines are ready to go when you need them. Tuning up your snowblower may seem an obvious one but doing end of season maintenance on your lawnmower also makes sure it’s good to be stored for the winter and will be ready to go when the spring rolls around.

9.) Have Your Chimneys Cleaned and Inspected

There’s nothing better than sitting around a fire on a blustery winter night but they’re also a leading cause of house fires every year. In fact there are over 25,000 chimney fires every year in the United States. These fires cause hundreds of millions of dollars in damages each year. Making sure your chimney is clean is a critical part of making sure your home is prepped for winter.

As fires burn, a dark tar like substance called creosote is formed from the combustion process. It builds up and condenses on the walls of the chimney over time. If not cleaned regularly, this buildup can reach a highly flammable threshold. Once a fire is lit and reaches the creosote lined chimney, it will quickly ignite and be extremely difficult to extinguish and contain. These fires can easily spread to other areas of the home and are extremely dangerous.

Click here to learn how you can clean the chimney yourself. Or you can hire a professional to typically clean your chimney for around $200-$500. Find a certified chimney sweep in your area.

10.) Check Your Smoke Alarms and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Whether you have hard wired or battery smoke alarms and CO Detectors make sure they are working properly by testing them. Make sure the batteries are changed and working. For hardwired units, use the test button to make sure they’re working properly.

Carbon monoxide is caused by the incomplete burning of fuels including natural gas, oil, coal, propane, and wood. Carbon monoxide is a tasteless, odorless, and potentially fatal gas. It can quickly become a problem in a closed up winter home without adequate air flow. Many of the mechanicals in our homes are powered by one of the fuels that cause carbon monoxide poisoning. Make sure you have the added protection of a quality detector for the safety of you and your loved ones.

For more information about the dangers of carbon monoxide, check out this article by the CDC.

I hope you enjoy this content and I hope it helps you get your home prepped for winter!

To view all my recommended tools, and winterizing products, make sure you visit my Amazon storefront.

Here are a few other articles and DIY home maintenance tips you may enjoy.

5 DIY Ways to Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

Warm Your Home & LOWER Your Heat Bill

It’s no secret that gas prices have been through the roof lately. That has motivated a lot more people to consider transitioning to an electric vehicle. My wife and I have had a Tesla Model 3 for a few years now and I personally love the car. Today I’m going to show you how to install an electric vehicle (Tesla) charger in your home in the event you decide to go electric. 

Disclaimer:

As with every video I do that involves electricity, I want to warn you that working with your electrical panel carries risk of injury or death and that I am not a licensed electrician. However, I have a lot of experience working with residential electricity and am comfortable in my abilities to operate with it safely. I’m merely showing you what is involved, and if at any time you are not comfortable doing anything I’m demonstrating in this video, please call a professional. There’s no sense in you injuring yourself or others just to save a few bucks. With that being said, let’s dive in. 

What You’ll Need

For this install we are going to be using some electrical conduit, some 8ga stranded wire, a 40amp dual pole breaker, a 4” electrical box, some screws or toggle bolts, some electrical tools including a fish tape and wire strippers/cutters, and a NEMA 50amp 220v plug.  

The Tesla Model 3 can handle up to a 50amp circuit to charge the vehicle. However, I am using a 40amp breaker with 8 ga wire because 8 ga wire is easier to pull through conduit than 6ga wire. The lower the gauge of the wire, the thicker it is and the more amperage it can accommodate. Here’s a basic amperage rating for the various thicknesses of wiring you’ll typically find in your home. 

I’ve also done this in the past using a 30 amp circuit and 10 ga wire. The car will charge either way. However, the larger the circuit, the faster it will charge. 

The first thing we’re going to do is turn the power off at the panel. Keep in mind that will kill all the power in the house and all the circuits. However, it doesn’t stop the power from coming in to the panel. Make sure you still work carefully and avoid the main leads coming into the panel. 

Checking Your Breaker Panel

You’ll need to make sure your panel has space to accommodate the breaker for the charger. I happen to know I have a few unused breakers in the panel from previously installed things. So I am going to repurpose a breaker that was previously used for an old electric oven. When selecting a breaker, you need to make sure that your new breaker matches the breaker style for your panel. I used a Square D panel which is usually written somewhere on the panel itself. 

Running Electrical Conduit

Next we’re going to install our box where we want it to be by screwing it to the wall on a stud or using toggle bolt anchors. From there we can start to install our conduit. I’m using schedule 40 PVC conduit because it’s easier to work with. However, I wanted to use 1” diameter conduit but it wasn’t in stock at the time so I went with ¾”. I’d recommend using the 1” conduit so that it’s easier to pull the wiring through. 

Installing the conduit will depend on your location. In this case I’m going up the wall, through a dividing wall into different portion of the garage, and then connecting to the panel. Using a pair of PVC cutters and a tape measure makes this part pretty simple. When you get to a corner, you can use one of these 90° junctions. Once you have the majority of the conduit run, connect it to your panel box by removing one of the panel knockouts and connecting it with a connection and nut. I recommend dry fitting all the pieces and making sure everything looks good before going back and gluing up your connections. 

Pulling Your Wiring

Now comes the fun part of pulling your wiring. The thicker your wiring, the more twists and turns you have, and the smaller your conduit, the harder it will be to pull. That’s why I recommend using the 1” conduit and the 8ga stranded wire. Stranded wire is essential to be able to pull. I’ll be pulling 4 wires. A red and a black, which will be the hot wires, (110v’s each which add up to 220v) a neutral wire, and a ground wire. Feed the wire fish tape through the conduit until it pops out the other side. It doesn’t necessarily matter which direction you pull from. I opted to pull away from the panel towards the end box. Once your fish tape is popped out the other end, you have to attach your wire to it. It involves stripping back a bunch of the wiring, twisting it together, and making everything as small as possible. You also don’t want to be shy about taping the hell out of it. You’re going to be wrenching on it pretty good and you don’t want to have it come apart halfway through your conduit run. 

I screwed up in this case because I tried to pull the whole lengthall at once. If you have a 90° junction anywhere in your run, this is going to be really hard to do. I should’ve started pulling from the 90°, got the wire to this point, and then unhooked everything and started over for the rest of the way. I ended up doing anyway but it was more difficult than it should have been. 

Once I pulled it all the way through to the box, I made sure I had about 8” sticking out of the box after cutting off the waste from the fish tape.

Connecting to the Panel

Back at the panel you need to make sure to give yourself plenty of length in the wiring to keep it tidy around the outside edges of the panel box. I happened to notice someone previously installed some wiring in this box where the ground crosses over in front of some of the breakers because they didn’t leave enough length. That’s a big no no and something I’ll have to fix. 

Make sure you have enough slack in the wiring to make the connections at the neutral and ground bar, and to your new breaker for the hot wires. Once you know you have enough length, cut off the excess. 

Connect the white neutral wire to the neutral bar in the panel. Then connect the ground wire to the ground bar. Next connect each of the hot wires to each of the connections on the bottom of the breaker itself. It doesn’t matter which one goes to which. Make sure they’re stripped to the right length and tighten them down securely. Then place the breaker into its location in the panel and snap it into place. 

Connecting the Receptacle

From there we’ll go back to the other end and make the connections on the receptacle. I’m using the 50amp receptacle but you can use different receptacles and Tesla adapters depending on your setup. The 2 hot wires (the red and black) get mounted to each of the brass terminals on the receptacle while the white gets connected to the silver terminal screw and the ground connects to the green terminal. Make sure everything is tightened securely and fold the wires back into the box and screw the receptacle in place. 

Next, I’m going to close up the electrical panel and turn the power back on at the main breaker. Then I’ll turn on my newly installed breaker to test out the circuit before I put the cover on the box. 

Once I plug everything in, it looks like everything is working as it should. Lastly I’m going to just add a cover to the box and install this little charger mount and cable management rack I found on Amazon. 

Finished Charger

And that’s it! I now have an electrical vehicle charger set up in the garage. You can charge the car off a normal 110v outlet but it takes a really long time to charge. If you drive a lot, it might not be sufficient for you. This way the car charges relatively quickly and you can top off anytime you’re at home. 

Thanks very much for checking out this video and I hope you learned something about installing a 220-240v circuit. This process can be used for more than just electrical vehicles. The install is pretty similar for other 220v circuits like large electric appliances, heaters, welders, shop tools, etc. Once you get used to understanding circuit and wiring sizes, etc you’re not really limited to what you can do. 

Thanks for checking out this project! Check out some of my other DIY Home electrical projects.

Top 5 DIY Electrical Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

Garage Heater Installation | A DIY Guide

Be honest, when was the last time you drained and flushed your hot water tank/heater? Last year? 5 years ago? Never?!?! Did you even know that was something you should be doing semi-regularly? Well I can assure you that not only is it something you SHOULD be doing, it’s something you should be doing every year!

Why Should I Drain my Water Heater?

Most homeowners I talk to have never drained and flushed their water heater. Understandable I suppose, it’s not something you learn about in school so if you never knew you were supposed to, why would you? Flushing your water tank is really simple and it helps prolong the life of the tank. Over time, lime, calcium, and other minerals in your water can create deposits in the tank. (Especially if you have hard water) Periodically draining and flushing your water tank helps loosen sediments that build up and cause problems with the heating elements. Over time, deposits and corrosion can shorten the life of the tank. There’s never a good time to not have hot water in your home! Now’s the time to add it to your to-do list! Here’s how to do it!

Step #1: Turn off the Power & Supply Valve

Either shut off the gas at the shutoff valve (Typically a valve connected to a yellow flex gas line running to the tank), or unplug the tank if it’s an electric tank. (You can also turn off the breaker to the water heater if you’re uncomfortable unplugging or unsure.)

Also close the cold water supply line valve. There’s typically a valve at the top of the tank. (If you’re not sure, you can CAREFULLY touch your hand on the pipes at the top to see which one is warm and which is cold. Don’t burn yourself! You want to shut off the cold supply line.) If you don’t have a valve there, shut the water off at the closest available shutoff OR you can shut off the main valve to the house if you need to.

Step #2: Connect a Hose to the Drain Valve

If you don’t have an already established drain line, connect a garden hose to the drain outlet on the bottom of the tank. REMEMBER THAT THE WATER IN THE TANK IS HOT! Either let the tank sit idle for a few hours, or carefully direct the hose outside or into your sump pump if you have one. Make sure the hose is directed to a safe place where no children or pets can be scalded by hot water.

Step #3:  Open the Drain Valve

Open the drain valve and allow all the water in the tank to run out. Depending on the size of the tank, this can take 15-20 minutes to drain. You’ll typically need a flat head screwdriver to open the valve.

Step #4: Turn the Water Back On

Once the water stops running from the hose, turn the water back on. You’ll want to allow the tank to flush directly out the hose for a few minutes. After that, I recommend you close the drain valve and allow the tank to fill at least halfway or so. Allow the tank to fill for 10-12 minutes.

Step #5: Shut Off the Water Again and Repeat Flush

Basically you’re going to do the same thing again. Shut off the water supply and open the drain valve. You’ve just flushed the tank to get the water to stir up any loose sediment and get it to be able to drain from the tank. Allow all the water to run from the tank again.

Before you turn the water back I recommend you also check the Anode Rod.

What is The Anode Rod?

Most homeowners I talk to don’t know what an anode rod is let alone know that it’s something that needs to be maintained with your hot water heater. The Anode Rod is a piece of sacrificial metal (usually magnesium or aluminum) that is located within your water heater. It attracts the corrosive elements of your water like calcium away from the internal components of the tank and your tank walls.

Changing your anode rod should be done every few years to make sure the life of your water heater isn’t shortened prematurely because of corrosion.

Step #6: Check or Replace the Anode Rod

The anode rod is mounted to the top of the tank and is threaded in place within the tank. Use a socket wrench or pliers to unthread the rod and check it for wear. If it is badly corroded or completely disintegrated, you need to replace it. Do a quick google search to find a replacement rod for your particular brand of water heater.

Once you reinstall the new anode rod…

Step #7: Reconnect the Heater

Make sure all valves and fittings are tightened and then turn the water supply valve back on for the tank allowing it to fill once again. Re-open the gas valve and follow all safety instructions to re-ignite the heater if you have a gas tank. CAUTION: Failure to follow ignition instructions can cause injury or death. Carefully follow all instructions. 

If you have an electric heater, plug it back in or turn the breaker back on to the unit.

How Do I Know if it’s Time to Replace My Water Heater?

There are several warning signs that your water heater might be on the outs! Here are a few things to look out for. Some issues can be repaired with new parts, while other issues may indicate the need for a new heater. Here’s what to look out for.

1.) Over 10 Years Old

If your water tank is over 10 years old, it might be time for a replacement. If you’re not having problems yet there’s no need to swap it right away, BUT you should probably budget for a new one because you’ll inevitably need one in the next couple years. Electric tanks typically have a little longer life span but both can be shortened by hard water.

2.) Leaking

If your tank is leaking, that’s a big sign that it needs replacing. It often happens on older tanks where corrosion and rust are problems. Sometimes it can be the result of keeping the temperature on the tank set too high or a faulty pressure relief valve. Over time that increased pressure can cause wear on the components.

A leaking tank can be extremely dangerous if not addressed as a leak indicates an issue with the integrity of the tank that can lead to a tank explosion! BAD NEWS BEARS!

3.) Discolored or Cold Water

If you’re getting rusty colored water or cold water after a short period of time, that could be an indication that your water heater needs attention. Especially with the latter. Old houses can have old galvanized pipes which corrode a lot so it may not be indicative of a faulty tank BUT if you’re noticing that AND a change in water temperature, you’re likely having an issue with the tank.

It could be that a heating element needs replacing because it has corroded. OR you may need to replace the tank itself. In either case, a closer inspection is warranted to find the problem.

Installing a New Water Heater

WARNING: Installing a new water heater carries the risk of electrical shock and/or exposure to gas fumes/vapors and can carry the risk of explosion if not done correctly. 

Installing a new water heater isn’t a job for the faint of heart and can be a little dangerous IF you don’t know what you’re doing. It is a task that a handy homeowner can accomplish on their own BUT as always it’s something that needs to be done carefully and correctly. If there are any doubts about your ability to do it, I’d recommend that you leave it to a professional.

Need to Replace an Electric Water Heater?

Check out the New High-Efficiency Rheem ProTerra Hydrbid Electric Water Heater with Leak Guard. 

The Rheem ProTerra Hybrid Electric Water Heater is 4x more efficient than a standard electric water heater, and has an automatic water shut-off in the event of a leak to provide additional peace of mind. You can also control the settings of your water heater directly from your mobile device for added flexibility and is installed just like a standard electric water heater.

If you enjoyed this content, check out some of these other DIY home maintenance projects.

It’s Time to Change Your Home’s Air Filters!

How to Install a Home Water Filtration System

I made a list of my favorite tools I bought or used in 2020 so I thought, “why not update it with some tools I’ve bought since then?” I’m constantly buying and testing out tools (and I occasionally get some pro bono). I’m always discovering new *to me* tools that I think are awesome and that I want to share with you guys in case you’re looking for new tools to add to your arsenal. Continue reading below to see my 10 Tool Recommendations for 2022!

This list is always changing, but these tools have my vote for favorites I’ve used in the last year or so! I know some of these items might be a little spendy for the average person, which I totally understand. Some of these items took me years to pull the trigger on. I tend to come from the school of thought that if you’re saving money on the labor by DIYing a project, you can use that savings to invest in some tools that will help make your life easier.

Here’s the full list of tools via my Amazon Affiliate storefront if you’d like to purchase any of them. You don’t pay any extra and it helps support the Mrfixitdiy brand. You can learn more about the types of compensation I accept on my disclosures page.

Without further ado here’s the list in no particular order.

1.) DeWalt FlexVolt 60v Max 6-1/2″ Track Saw

DeWalt FlexVolt 60v Max 6-1/2″ Track Saw – $399

I’ll be honest. I never really used a track saw much before this year. I’ve always been pretty confident in my ability with a circular saw and when I needed it, I always just clamped down a level or straight edge to get a clean cut. That all changed this year when I bought the DeWalt Track saw. It has completely overhauled the way I cut sheet goods or just need to make a clean, straight cut. Having the flexibility of the 60v cordless power is amazing! It helped me so much when I tackled the massive kitchen remodel I tackled this year. HIGHLY recommend!

2.) Graco Magnum X7 Paint Sprayer

Graco Magnum X7 Paint Sprayer – $390

In the past I’ve always rented a Sprayer from Home Depot when I needed one for a larger job. That changed this year as I tackled a bunch of large home improvement projects and it didn’t make sense to rent a sprayer a bunch of times. I own the Graco TC Pro Handheld Cordless Sprayer also BUT when it came to painting the ceiling in my living room, and the cabinets and kitchen for my remodel, I needed something that could hold a lot more paint. The performance of the X7 was awesome, whether it was painting the exterior of the house, or the fine finish of the cabinets. I used the Graco FFLP208 for the fine finish tip for painting my cabinets. Swapping the tips gave me tremendous versatility and was worth it’s weight in gold!

3.) Festool 574930 CT 26 E HEPA Dust Extractor

Festool 574930 CT 26 Dust Extractor – $740

Look, I know spending $700+ on a shop vac seems insane! I told myself that FOR YEARS. I could never justify the expense of it and couldn’t see how it warranted that price. Well this past year I finally bit the bullet and bought my first Festool product and this was it. I bought it because I needed something for refinishing my kitchen cabinets in place. Since I reused many of the cabinet boxes and sanded them in place in the kitchen, I needed something that could keep the dust as manageable as possible. To be honest, I’ve never used a vacuum that even compares to keeping the dust down like this one does. Sanding the cabinets was virtually dustless. I paired this with my second Festool purchase, the Festool DTS 400 REQ-Plus Sander, and was not at all disappointed in my purchase. I was quoted over $5000 to refinish and paint the cabinets which wasn’t in my budget so this was the next best thing. 

4.) True Position Cabinet Hardware Jig

True Position Cabinet Hardware Jig – $199

This was another upgrade for me this year. I previously had another cabinet hardware jig but it just wasn’t up to par. With this jig you can easily set repeatable positioning for perfect placement on doors and drawer pulls which was huge for me to get a consistent look across all my kitchen cabinets. I love this tool and will be using it in all my cabinet projects moving forward!

5.) Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18 Ga. Brad Nailer

Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18 Ga. Brad Nailer – $279

This was one of those tools I got from my friends over at Northern Tool & Equipment earlier this year. I’ve wanted a cordless brad nailer for a long time so I jumped at the chance to get my hands on this thing. Needless to say I was NOT disappointed. In fact, I love it so much I bought one for my brother for his birthday. This thing has been an absolute game changer for most of my woodworking projects as well as for trim and finish carpentry projects around the house. This is absolutely the first tool I reach for with glue-ups when I need something to hold while the glue sets up. It’s reliable, powerful, and versatile. Works perfect with the rest of my Fuel Lineup on the 18v battery lineup. If you’re in the market for a cordless brad nailer, this is easily my choice.

6.) Bora Tool Wood Storage Rack

Bora Tool Wood Storage Rack – $49.99

You can never have too much lumber storage! I spent WAY too much time tripping over lumber in my shop earlier this year (and every year quite frankly). I invested in a few more of these racks this year to help get materials up off the floor so that I could navigate around the shop safely. If you have any available wall space to put one (or a bunch) of these up, you’ll thank yourself for pulling the trigger on these. Super easy assembly and for under $50 on Amazon right now, it’s a no brainer!

7.) Kreg Tool Concealed Hinge Jig

Kreg Tool Concealed Hinge Jig – $54.99

Between rebuilding all my kitchen cabinets to my office and some shop cabinets, I did a buttload of cabinetry this year! This jig is a must if you’re using concealed hinges. I had another concealed hinge jig from a Rockler for a few years but I wasn’t crazy about it. This one is much simpler, intuitive, and versatile. Not to mention it’s $29 on Amazon which is a steal IMO. Adjusting it is super easy with a phillips head screwdriver and it fits the majority of concealed hinges you’ll find on the market. Cheap, easy, and effective! My 3 favorite things!

8.) Milwaukee Voltage Detector

Milwaukee Voltage Detector – $30

I’ve had this tool for a few years now but I got a TON of use out of it this year already. In fact, I used it so much that I broke my first one and had to buy a replacement. If you’re doing any electrical work around the house this is a must have. With my various remodeling projects this past year, I did a lot of electrical work. Moving to a new house, I also have done a ton of troubleshooting on the new place to figure out the electrical layout. This is my go-to tool for checking for live (hot) wires, line & load wires, and identifying circuits. It’s a super simple tool but it has paid for itself 100x over. It’s about the size of a sharpie so it’s super convenient to add to an electrical pouch or carry in your pocket. It has a loud beep and red light that flashes when voltage is present so it’s pretty fool proof (just make sure it’s on). It also has a little flashlight on the end that can be helpful in dark situations and to know that the pen is on. Highly worthwhile purchase for both convenience and personal safety.

9.) POPULO Electric Drain Auger

Populo Electric Drain Auger – $99

This was one of the more recent tools I bought at the end of last year. When we moved into the new house, a bunch of the bathroom drains were really slow moving. The kitchen also had some issues but I’ll save that story for another time. I purchased this electric drain auger after much frustration with my traditional drain auger and dealing with stubborn clogs I couldn’t remove with the shop vac. I can’t believe how impressed I’ve been with this tool. Anytime you buy a tool from an unknown (to me) brand, you always take a risk, but I am so happy with this purchase. It was pretty affordable and well worth the purchase price. It’s handled everything I’ve thrown at it thus far with incredible ease. Highly recommend.

10.) Bora Tool Centipede

Bora Centipede – $122

This is one of the more recent tools I purchased and it has really come in handy after our move. I don’t have a dedicated shop space setup yet so the versatility of the centipede has been a space and time saver. I can use it as a portable workbench, or as a spot to hold sheet goods while I build other cabinets and benches. It collapses small and tucks away so it’s super convenient. Even after I have the new shop completed, this will get regular use in my shop because it’s so versatile and useful.

So that’s it for this list! I hope you guys enjoyed checking out some of my favorites and I hope it helps you if you’re considering some new tools throughout 2022. I’d highly recommend adding these to your wishlists for the future. As I mentioned, this is an every evolving list so I’ll do my best to share some more of my favorites as I come across them.

If you like this list, here is previous list of recommendations as well as some recent projects I’ve done utilizing some of the tools I mentioned above.

My Top 10 Tools of 2020 (So Far)!

10 Tips to Paint Like a Pro!

I’ve come across spray foam insulation being used by many DIYers in just about every way imaginable BUT just because you can use it for a variety of purposes, it doesn’t necessarily mean that you should! Today I’m going to share with you the ways that I use spray foam insulation in my remodeling projects and some applications where I don’t recommend it, or think a better solution is required. 

This project contains a paid product integration from Loctite and affiliate links to the The Home Depot. All opinions are herein are my own. Visit my disclosure page for more information on affiliate and compensation this site accepts. 

DO: Use Window & Door Foam to Seal Around Rough Openings

Whenever I’m installing windows and doors, the rough openings are always slightly larger than the window or door itself. That means you’re always left with a small gap that can create drafts, air loss, or be an avenue for pests to find their way in. In this case, you should definitely use the window and door spray foam. The window and door foam expands at low pressure compared to other types so you won’t risk bending or bowing the door or window jambs causing problems with their operation. 

DON’T: Use to Address Structural Cracks in Foundations or Concrete

Next, let’s talk about cracks. Not all cracks are created equal. For example, if I come across a crack in a foundation, spray foam insulation wouldn’t be my go-to fix. Foundation cracks can be superficial, or they may be structural so understanding the problem is essential to creating the right fix. I would never use spray foam to address a structural problem like a foundation crack. The same goes for most cracks in concrete including sidewalks, driveways, patios, etc. 

DO: Use to Air Seal Attics & Crawlspaces

One of the best uses for spray foam applications is to use it for air sealing. When I recently replaced the insulation in my attic, I first went through and sealed all the visible cracks and penetrations I could see in the attic before adding the blown in insulation on top. Filling any voids with spray foam makes sure you have a tight envelope between your living space and the attic. I climbed around in the dark in my attic and looked for light leaks from below and filled those areas. The same can be said for crawl spaces beneath the house that can be spots where air loss occurs. 

DON’T: Use to Address Issues with Improper Framing or as a Wood Substitute 

One of the biggest no-no’s I have seen from DIYers is using spray foam to fill structural gaps in framing. I’ve opened some walls and found that people sometimes will mis-cut a piece of lumber and rather than recutting it the proper size, they just slap it in place and fill the gap with spray foam. You might be surprised how often this happens especially in DIY flip houses. Just because something looks decent on the outside doesn’t always mean it looks great underneath. Don’t use spray foam to fill any structural gaps as it’s not a structurally rated product. 

DO: Use On Small Penetrations to Seal Out Insects and Pests

I have a really old house so there are a lot of unseen areas where there are small holes or cracks. I typically find them after I have some unwanted visitors in the house. Probably my favorite application for spray foam is to fill those areas to seal out ants, spiders, and other insects. Typically with ants I can follow their trail to see where they are coming in from outside and then use spray foam to fill those areas. Now if the hole or penetration is larger, like something a mouse or a rat can get through, I don’t recommend using spray foam UNLESS you add some wire mesh to the area first. Larger pests like that can sometimes chew their way through the foam and get back in. 

DON’T: Use to Fill In Eave & Soffit Areas that Effect Attic Ventilation

Another area to be careful of is using spray foam in eaves and soffits. These are common trouble areas for bees nests and many homeowners elect to spray foam to seal out the bees. However, you always want to be careful that you’re not interfering with your home’s ability to breathe properly. Some homes have vented eaves and soffits that allow your attic to vent properly and by filling in these areas, your attic space can’t vent properly. If it’s one trouble spot it’s not a big deal but be conscious if you find yourself sealing larger areas. 

DO: Use to Seal Around Electrical and Plumbing Penetrations (Code Permitting)

Electrical and plumbing penetrations into a home is another great use for spray foam. However, it’s important to make sure a fire rated foam isn’t required by code in your area. I always like to seal around exterior electrical boxes and any plumbing pipe penetrations around the perimeter of my house because these are really common points of drafts as well as can act as super highways for critters coming in and out of your house. 

DON’T: Use to Seal Water Leaks in Plumbing

Another huge fail for spray foam is people using it to try and stop leaks. Rather than fixing the underlying issue, I have seen some homes where people have attempted to stop a leak from a pipe or water line with spray foam. Please don’t use spray foam for this. Most of the time all it does is create a larger issue down the road. It won’t solve the problem and will most likely result in larger damage taking place once the water finds a way out. Depending on the application, the foam can actually allow the water to build up which can lead to serious mold problems so do yourself a favor and if you’re experiencing any kind of water leak, avoid using spray foam as a bandaid. 

DO: Use in Moderation! 

My last tip is just that use spray foam in MODERATION. People have a tendency to spray things and trying to find extra uses for it and end up using the whole can before the nozzle gets all plugged up and they can’t use the can anymore. Trust me, I know that can be frustrating. BUT here’s what I would recommend instead. Use the can in moderation and only use as much as you need. Remember that these products expand somewhat exponentially. As far as reusing the can, I recommend that you just buy a bunch of extra straws. You can snag a whole pack online for just a few $$ and keeps you from wasting a bunch of money on new cans. 

So that’s it for this article! If enjoyed it, please consider subscribing to my YouTube channel so you never miss out on any of the new content I post. 

Thank you to Loctite for making this video possible and allowing me to share how to properly use spray foam. If you guys do need some spray foam for your next project, I encourage you to check out their products which you can find at your local Home Depot. 

If you found this article helpful, here are some other articles you may enjoy! 

5 DIY Ways to Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

Warm Your Home & LOWER Your Heat Bill

I’ll admit it, I’m a bit of an addict for new tools! I’m constantly buying tools just to test them out or because they seem like a cool product or can save me time. I’m also fortunate to do this as a business and I occasionally get some sent to me for review pro bono! (I LOVE when this happens). With that said, I’m always discovering new *to me* tools that I think are awesome and that quickly become some of my “go-to” tools for a job.

I thought I would put together a list of tools I’ve gotten to use a lot in 2020 that I absolutely love in case you’re looking for some tools for yourself or the tool lover in your life this fall. This list is ever changing, but so far in 2020, these tools have my vote for favorites I’ve used this year!

Here’s the full list of tools via my Amazon storefront if you’d like to purchase any of them. You don’t pay any extra and it helps support the Mrfixitdiy brand.

1.) Collins Tool Co. Miter Spring Clamps

Collings Tool Miter Spring Clamps – <$50

These things are freaking excellent! Whether you’re doing interior trim work around the house or woodworking in the shop, these tools have become a staple for me anytime I’m doing any type of miter work. These are perfect for baseboards, window and door casings, hobby woodworking projects, you name it! If you’re looking to get something for yourself or the woodworker in your life under $50 then these are a no brainer in my opinion. You’ll find endless uses for them once you have them in your toolbox.

2.) Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18v Cordless Router

Milwaukee FUEL 18v Cordless Router – $200+

Of all the cordless lineups out there, the M18 Fuel lineup is by far my favorite (and I’m not paid to say that). The tremendous amount of tools that have been released that all run on the same battery platform is absolutely awesome in my opinion. Rather than extra chargers and different batteries each time you buy a new tool, you can buy the tool only if you already have other tools in the FUEL lineup. The router is the latest tool I’ve purchased to add to my arsenal of FUEL tools and it is A BEAST. It does everything it’s corded alternative did for me and the portability and ease of use makes it my go to anytime I need a router now. This is a must have for anyone that finds themselves working on the go or just wants a strong, reliable router for woodworking, trim, etc.

3.) Micro-Jig MATCHFIT Dovetail Clamps

Micro-Jig MATCHFIT Dovetail Clamps – $30

Every woodworker knows you can never have too many clamps. No matter how many you own, your newest project seems to involve every clamp you own. What’s awesome about these is you can create your own woodworking jigs and clamp rigs however and whenever you need them using any 14° dovetail router bit. You don’t need to spend a bunch of money on T-track or something to create a jig to hold your workpiece. These clamps slide into any dovetail channel and are super strong and easy to use. Their uses are almost limitless and having a versatile tool like them is really useful especially if you have a smaller workshop.

4.) Paslode Cordless XP 30° Framing Nailer

Paslode Cordless 30° Framing Nailer – $350+

Alright so this one I’ve had for several years now BUT I’ve continued to use it a lot this year and it continues to be one of my favorite all-time tool purchases. This thing just performs! Is it pricey? Absolutely. (Not that different than buying a compressor, hose, and a pneumatic gun though) It’s more than paid for itself in the amount of time it has saved me from lugging around and using an air compressor. It keeps the job site cleaner and safer (no tripping on hoses). The gas canisters last a really long time as does the battery. I honestly have zero complaints about this tool and I’m so glad I have it!  I also use it for cement composite siding projects. I’d highly recommend this tool for any framing or remodel projects you’re doing.

5.) WEN Variable Speed Drywall Sander

WEN Variable Speed Drywall Sander – $120

It’s no secret that I HATE drywall. I’ve been pretty vocal about how much I despise taping, mudding, and sanding drywall. Well that hasn’t really changed much, BUT I did invest in a drywall sander this year and it’s made keeping the annoying drywall dust under control MUCH easier. I always assumed a drywall sander was really expensive, but I found this WEN drywall sander very affordable and it was such a big help when I was working on the drywall for my office remodel this year. It’s one of those tools that I’m not sure how I’ve gone without. Needless to say, I won’t be doing drywall without it ever again!

6.) Rolgear 15 in 1 SILENT Ratchet Screwdriver

Rolgear 15 in 1 SILENT Ratchet Screwdriver – $30

A screwdriver is just a screwdriver, right? Well yeah, except for when it’s this one. I’ve actually had a set of these for a few years, but I started using this screwdriver all the time on my projects this year. With 15 interchangeable bits for every type of screw, and a super easy adjustment for ratcheting tight or loose, this screwdriver is awesome. And it’s completely silent so no ratchet clicking noise. It’s super comfortable in the hand, well balanced, and ergonomic. This tool is perfect for all sorts of applications but I use it a lot for electrical and mechanical maintenance projects around the house. If you’re looking for a “one size fits all” multi-purpose screwdriver I encourage you to check this one out.

7.) Kreg Crown Pro – Crown Molding Cutting Tool

Kreg Crown Pro – Crown Molding Cutting Tool – $30

This one is a bit of a specialty item. Do you need it? Well no, probably not if you’re not doing a bunch of crown molding. But if you have at least one room of crown molding to do like I did this year, it’s worth the investment. Finding the spring angle and setting up a jig for cutting crown molding on your miter saw can be a time suck and be a pain in the butt. This jig takes out all the guesswork and makes it a quick and easy setup. For $30, it’s well worth it simply to save yourself a headache. Crown molding takes some time to get used to and can be challenging so anything that helps simplify the process is worth it in my book!

8.) Aquor Water Systems House Hydrant

Aquor Water Systems House Hydrant – $80+

Ok so maybe this is more of a product than a tool, I don’t know. Regardless, I installed one of these this year as a how-to project video and I love it! It’s a slick modern upgrade to the traditional hose bib. What’s cool about it is that it’s self draining and the majority of the unit is actually in the wall. If you live in a cold climate, there’s no risk of freezing and breaking in the winter months, and no need to do a season ending water line drain before the frost. If you’re looking to upgrade your hose bibs around the house, I’d highly recommend checking out the House Hydrant.

9.) SENSE Home Energy Monitor

SENSE Home Energy Monitor – $299

This is another one of those “tools” that’s a little different but has been amazing for me in 2020. I installed this monitor on my home about a year ago and it has helped me prioritize money/energy saving projects on the house over the past year. For example, my old fridge was a complete energy suck and was costing a lot of money to run! It also helped me realize exactly how much money I was putting towards HVAC and it made me prioritize re-doing the insulation in my attic before the summer heat this year which has made a noticeable difference in my energy bills. The app interface is easy to use and learns your home over time to help identify each item and how much power they draw. I highly recommend it.

10.) Gerber Center-Drive Multi-Tool

Gerber Center-Drive Multi-Tool – $125

I was never much for a multi-tool as an everyday carry tool until this year. I got my hands on the Center-Drive from Gerber and I immediately fell in love with it. It has a lot of the features people love about a multi-tool in a small package and also has a built in screwdriver with a variety of interchangeable bits. It’s awesome to know that you have a tool in your pocket that can tackle a huge array of jobs.The only thing it’s missing in my opinion is a pocket clip!

So that’s it for this list! I hope you guys enjoyed checking out some of my favorites and I hope it helps you if you’re considering some new tools this year. As I mentioned, this is an every evolving list so I’ll do my best to share some more of my favorites as I come across them.

Here are some recent projects I’ve done utilizing some of the tools I mentioned above.

How to Monitor Your Home’s Energy Usage

How to Upgrade to a Modern Water Spigot

Summertime means cranking that air conditioning in the house to cool it down which can really impact your home’s energy consumption. Today I’m here to share a few things that you can do around your home to help make your space more comfortable and energy efficient, which reduces your impact on the environment.

So let’s get started!

#1: Replace Your Indoor and Outdoor Light Bulbs with LED’s

Replacing your light bulbs is one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to make your home more energy efficient. Typical CFL or older
incandescent bulbs use anywhere from 40w-100w a piece and the newer LED equivalents typically range from 10-20w for the same light output.
They’re a little more expensive on the front end, but their bulb life is exponentially longer and the cost savings on your energy bill adds up quickly.

Many people may think to replace their interior bulbs. Also, consider replacing exterior landscape bulbs and motion lights. It’s not uncommon for exterior bulbs to be 150w so replacing them can add up to
significant savings over time.

#2: Inspect Your Attic Insulation and Replace it if Necessary

One specific area to consider is your attic. If you’re like me, it’s not an area you particularly like to work in. Still, it’s a vital part of keeping your home as efficient as possible. It keeps heat in during the winter, but it also helps keep the heat of your roof from radiating into your living space in the summer.

Go into your attic and make sure that insulation coats the entire living space. It may be blown in, in batt form, or a combination of the two. If your insulation is sporadic, very thin, or has been infested with critters, consider having it replaced or adding additional insulation on top.

#3: Update Your Old Thermostat to a New Smart Thermostat

Upgrading your HVAC themostat provides
another environmentally friendly tool in saving energy. A programmable thermostat allows you to set back your home’s temperature when you’re away, such as at work for the day or on a lengthy vacation. For instance, you can program up to 4 schedules a day, 7 days a week. Smart versions like the Trane Connected Thermostat – XL 824 or XL1050 – expand those capabilities and give you the ability to adjust settings from anywhere when preferences or plans change.

In fact, these thermostats are so advanced, they also come with other key features like Wi-Fi connection, built-in
Nexia Bridge (which gives you the flexibility to remotely monitor and control over other smart home devices such as your home’s lights, locks, and even your garage).

#4: Clean Your HVAC Condenser and Change Your Air Filters

One of the easiest ways to make sure your HVAC system is functioning properly and not overworking is to connect with your local HVAC technician for a seasonal maintenance. Trane provides an awesome certified contractor locator to help you find a company nearby to come evaluate your system. Another option is to follow these basic steps to cleaning the outside condenser and change the air filter inside. 

1.) To clean your condenser coil, first make sure power is shut off to the unit by turning off the power at the disconnect near the unit. 2.) Use a shop vac with a soft bristle attachment to vacuum any loose material or debris that may be inhibiting the cooling coils from working properly. 3.) Use a foaming condenser cleaning product to spray all over the condenser and let it soak for about 10 minutes. 4.) Then rinse the coil with clear low pressure water to remove remaining dirt and debirs. 5.) After that, you’re good to turn the power back on. 

You should do this about once a year to make sure your condenser is clean and working properly. Also, while you’re at it, make sure that there are no plants or obstructions within about 12” all around the unit that make it hard for the unit to breathe properly. If there are, make sure to trim it back. Changing your filter is simple. Just find your air intake for your unit and replace it with the proper size filter. You can find the size you need written right on the side of the previous filter. I recommend you do this around every 3-6 months. 

#5: Replace Old Single Pane Windows with New Energy Star Rated Options

Adding replacement windows or updating windows around your home during a remodel project is a great way to improve the overall energy efficiency of your home. Old single pane windows allow the heat of the sun’s rays to radiate into the home. This can significantly raise the interior temperature which means your A/C system needs to work harder to cool the home.

New double paned windows have an insulating gas between the panes which allows for less heat energy transfer into the home and thus are much more energy efficient. A local window expert can help you decide on what types of windows are right for your home.

Hopefully these tips help give you some ideas to get your home’s energy consumption under control. Not only will it help save you money, but it can help lessen your environmental impact. If you are considering making some energy efficient improvements, I recommend looking at your local utility company’s website. Oftentimes, you can find rebates for energy efficient upgrades to your home that can help you offset those initial costs. Your local and state governments may also have some incentives to take advantage of. All it takes is a little research. 

I’d like to thank the Trane team for sending over the XL824 connected thermostat I installed in the video and for making this project possible. If you’d like some more information on additional energy efficient upgrades you can do around your home, check out Trane’s website.

Thank you, for watching and if it’s your first time visiting the channel, please hit that subscribe button and hit that notification bell so you never miss out on any of the new content I put out. And as always, I encourage you to leave me a comment
down below and let me know what energy improvements you plan on tackling down the road.

Thanks so much for watching and I’ll see you next time.

Top 5 DIY Ways to Get Rid of Ants

5 DIY Electrical Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

In this project I’m going to show you how to monitor your home’s energy usage by installing a Sense Home Energy Monitoring Device that you can monitor right from your phone or tablet. This device allows you to view your home’s energy usage in real-time on your phone. With that information you can determine which areas of your home to focus on improving.

Disclosure: This video and article contains an unpaid product integration by Sense. All views and opinions expressed herein are my own.

One of the things I’m very passionate about is finding ways to make my home more energy efficient. A few months ago I learned about a product called Sense. Sense is an energy monitoring device that installs into your breaker panel and allows you to see how much power each device in your home uses. You can use that information to make more energy efficient improvements to your home. 

Disclaimer:

I’d like to remind you that I am not a licensed electrician. If at any point you are not comfortable tackling this project on your own, please reach out to an electrician that can help you with the installation. This is designed to be a guide to show you how it can be done, but does not replace the expertise or knowledge of a licensed electrician. 

Installing the Device:

The first step to installing this device is unpacking the box and taking a look at all the components. The package contains with a device monitor, an antenna, 2 sensor clips, a power cable, and an optional mounting bracket.

Next you’ll have to get access to your main breaker panel, and shut the power off. Remove the cover panel and have a look at your breaker setup. This device requires that it be wired into a dual pole 220v breaker which is not included in the kit so if you don’t have one available that you can tap into, you’ll have to buy one that matches your panel. If you do need to purchase a breaker, you’ll also have to verify that your breaker panel has space available to install it.

Installing the Antenna

Once you’ve verified you have space available for the install, remove a knock out from the panel box and install the antenna into the hole. From there you can connect the antenna to the device monitor itself. If you don’t have room inside the panel, you can use the optional monitor bracket to install it outside the panel.

Wiring the Device

Install your new breaker if you need to or connect the wiring to your existing breaker. The black and red wires connect to the breaker itself, and the white wire attaches to the neutral bar in your panel.

Connecting the Service Clips

Now this is where things get dangerous if you’re not familiar with your panel box. You’ll need to connect the current sensor clips around the service legs coming into your panel. These 2 wires ARE ALWAYS LIVE even if your panel box is shut off. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES TOUCH THEM. In my case, these wires are hidden underneath the meter on the panel which is secured by the power company with a lock which I didn’t have a key for. So I called my local power company and asked them to come out and shut off the power and remove the lock so that I could access those wires. Since they shut the power service off to the house, there was no danger of me being shocked when I connected the clips. Once I had them installed, they replaced the meter and turned the power back on.

Once I had the wiring all connected, I removed the necessary knockouts on the cover of my breaker panel, reinstalled it, and turned the main power back on at the breaker. From there, the device fires up and starts it’s process.

Download and Set Up the App

Next I downloaded the Sense App on my phone, and began the setup process. It connects via WiFi and prompts you to setup your device. Once logged in, it takes a couple days to calibrate and then it starts the process of identifying devices around your home.

Identifying Devices

The device shows exact energy usage in real-time and starts to identify different devices around your home automatically. It has a smart learning algorithm that can determine which devices are which and starts to label them around your home. You can verify or change the name of the device right in the app. As more homes connect to the app, it continues to learn and define new devices.

You can go around and flip devices on and off and see the effect on your energy usage in real-time. And you can set goals with notifications to keep your energy consumption down, see which devices are using the highest percentage of power, get pretty accurate estimates on your energy bills by inputting your typical costs. They also offer a solar option which will tell you how much energy your solar panels are producing and how much they are offsetting your energy bill if you have solar panels.

Review

Overall, this is a really cool device. It’s helped me realize how inefficient my home is when it comes to heating and air conditioning. I didn’t realize how many hours those devices run on a daily basis which drastically affects my utility bill. Moving forward I’ll be taking that information to continue to invest in ways to offset that energy usage.

I think a device like this can definitely be useful for someone like myself who owns an older, fixer upper that is looking to improve its efficiency. The Sense device can help tell you where your energy and thus where your money is going. This can help you prioritize where you focus your remodel efforts. And over time, this could save you a lot of money. 

I hope you guys enjoyed this project. I’d like to thank the Sense team for sending over this device and allowing me to test it out. 

Check out some of my other home energy & electrical tutorials:

10 DIY Ways to Warm Your Home and Lower Your Heat Bill

How to Install a Post Lamp

Disclosure: This video and article contain a paid promotion by FilterBuy.com. Get your replacement air filters started today: https://bit.ly/2DoDfAD

#1: Install Plastic Window Insulation

Using heat shrink plastic and a blow-dryer can be a simple, effective way to help seal off windows and other small gaps to warm your home. Windows are one of the worst offenders in terms of letting in that cold air. Getting them replaced or fixed can cost a lot in time and money as well

Start by measuring your window. You’re going to want to use a sheet of plastic that is slightly larger than the window itself. Use the included double-sided tape to attach the plastic to the window frame. Just use a blow dryer to adhere it to the frame and window and smooth out any bubbles.

#2: Seal Gaps with Spray Foam

For areas like around electrical outlets, using a spray foam can be a good fix, especially in older homes. The area around electrical boxes can often be poorly sealed, which allows drafts to come in.

#3: Change Direction of Ceiling Fan

One of the easiest ways to keep your home warm in winter is reversing your ceiling fan. Because warm air rises, setting the blades this way will help push warm air back down into the room. It costs nothing, and can help a lot to warm your home.

#4: Lower Water Heater Temperature

This may sound a bit counter-intuitive, but with colder temperatures outside and inside, lowering that temperature on your water heater will still feel hot to you. It will also help lower the amount of energy you are using to keep it hot. Over time, this can add up and save you a fair amount of money.

#5: Change Your Furnace Air Filters

Your air filters should be changed every 3 months or so. I can be a hassle, but clean air is imperative to your health. As a bonus, it ensures your furnace will warm your home as optimally as possible.

If you don’t like dealing with the hassle of buying air filters every few months, check out FilterBuy.com. They are a direct-to-consumer H-VAC filter provider. Simply set how frequently you would like to receive your filters in the size you need, and it will ship to you within 24 hours.

This saves you a trip to the big box store, and they arrive when you need to change the filter. It’s just one less thing to worry about. They are also a family owned company that manufactures everything right here in the USA. I can’t recommend them enough.

#6: Install or Inspect Weatherstripping

Broken or damaged weatherstripping around doors can be a big problem in terms of keeping drafts out. Inspect your exterior doors, and see if the weatherstripping looks like it has any cracking or dry rot. Replace it if it shows signs of wear and tear.

#7: Utilize Door Sweeps and Draft Guards

Check the bottom of your doors to make sure the door sweeps don’t have drafts coming in beneath the door. In colder climates, you may even see some snow flowing in beneath the door too.

Use a tool like a laser thermometer for finding drafts that are harder to pinpoint.

#8: Install a Smart Thermostat

This option is great for making sure you are as efficient as possible with your energy usage. My Nest smart thermometer can even be accessed from my phone, so I can  set a schedule for when I am out of the home.

#9: Close Chimney Flues and Add a Cover

An open chimney flue is a direct shot for cold air to make its way into the home. Since cold air falls, it can literally act as a funnel for all the warm air in your home to float out and be replaced by the colder air. This makes it that much harder to warm your home, so keep it closed when possible

#10: Replace Fireplace with Wood Stove

Traditional fireplaces lose the majority of their heat out the chimney rather than heating the room. A wood burning stove can both work more efficiently to heat your home, as well as cut down on energy costs.

So that’s it for now, I hope these tips will help you warm your home and stave off the cold this winter. Hopefully it can save you some money as well.

If you found this kind of content helpful, I also encourage you to check out my new project, the How to Home Podcast, which you can find on all major podcast platforms, and the condensed versions will be on my YouTube channel as well. There we talk about all kinds of topics related to home improvement and DIY projects, so I hope you’ll check it out!

And if you’d like to see some other tips, here are some other great lists I’ve made!

Top 5 DIY Ways to Get Rid of Ants

5 Ways to Maximize Shed Storage

Thank you guys so much, and I’ll see you next time!